15m.

Rockfax Description
14m. The soaring left wall of the rift offers a sterling challenge. Climb the crack to its end then a thinner crack to its termination. From here poor pockets (and bold climbing) lead slightly rightwards to the top © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the initail crack, move left to a smaller crack, up this then right to better holds, from where you can gather your thoughts before committing to the finish.

Mike Hammill, Al Manson. Sep/1977

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Trad climbs for sport climbers, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Routes 2019, Rockfax Northern England Top 50, James' Winter Grit ticklist, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven., Rockfax Top 50 - Northern England

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Glen 12 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Not lead so can't really comment on the boldness, but really good moves. A definite 3 star route. It's possible (but probably slightly harder) to finish left rather than under the roof.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not lead so can't really comment on the boldness, but really good moves. A definite 3 star route. It's possible (but probably slightly harder) to finish left rather than under the roof.
Ged Desforges 19 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: just brilliant. enough good gear where you need it, sustained positive climbing. One of the best grit routes i've done
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: just brilliant. enough good gear where you need it, sustained positive climbing. One of the best grit routes i've done
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 16 May Lead rpt
Hidden 12 May Lead RP
Hidden 12 May Lead O/S
Jmpollard 28 Mar Lead G/U 6th go, mega pleased. Belated Jim on this about 18 months ago but couldn't remember anything, much to my disappointment. Took a long time to figure out the sequence at the top, and a few tests of the top gear which didn't initially didn't hold, making for a bit of a mega lob. Brilliant route though, shame about the awful top out you have to do!
with Jaomes
6th go, mega pleased. Belated Jim on this about 18 months ago but couldn't remember anything, much to my disappointment. Took a long time to figure out the sequence at the top, and a few tests of the top gear which didn't initially didn't hold, making for a bit of a mega lob. Brilliant route though, shame about the awful top out you have to do!
with Jaomes
Jon Read 20 Oct, 2018 TR Memory lane. Found wanting!
with Chris Jewell
Memory lane. Found wanting!
with Chris Jewell
JendeHoxar 8 Aug, 2018 2nd dog
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 8 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Long time waiting for my first midweek after work E5
Long time waiting for my first midweek after work E5
spidermonkey09 16 Dec, 2017 Lead G/U Stonking route. Got pumped and went wrong way first go, slightly higher second go to the pinch. Third go felt great. Fantastic moves and great gear as long as you have the guns to hang around and place it.
with Josh Pollard
Stonking route. Got pumped and went wrong way first go, slightly higher second go to the pinch. Third go felt great. Fantastic moves and great gear as long as you have the guns to hang around and place it.
with Josh Pollard
mrteale 15 Oct, 2017 Lead Ground up. First go today (3rd overall), Felt a lot more straightforward than last week. Best route I've done on grit (controversially because it doesn't really climb like grit!). Thought the route exited out right at the top and had a hilarious grovel top out which ended up feeling like the crux.
Ground up. First go today (3rd overall), Felt a lot more straightforward than last week. Best route I've done on grit (controversially because it doesn't really climb like grit!). Thought the route exited out right at the top and had a hilarious grovel top out which ended up feeling like the crux.
Teappleby 15 Oct, 2017 Lead G/U 3rd go. Did not disappoint. Bon route.
3rd go. Did not disappoint. Bon route.
benkelsey 15 Oct, 2017 Lead G/U First attempt at an E5 onsight, fell off the crux. Sent next go as a clip up on Ed's gear. Great climbing with a committing throw to latch the top
First attempt at an E5 onsight, fell off the crux. Sent next go as a clip up on Ed's gear. Great climbing with a committing throw to latch the top
mrteale 7 Oct, 2017 Lead dnf Gutted to blow the onsight right near the top. Had one more go and fell at the top going slightly the wrong way, think I know what to do now. Hopefully tick it off this Saturday.
with DanOsb
Gutted to blow the onsight right near the top. Had one more go and fell at the top going slightly the wrong way, think I know what to do now. Hopefully tick it off this Saturday.
with DanOsb
Matt Cooke 23 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with tsl42
with tsl42
tsl42 23 Sep, 2017 2nd dog
Jono_1989 4 Aug, 2017 Lead G/U
CMoore 2 Jul, 2017 2nd RP Nearly.... nearly had it on the lead. Gave up trying and opted to second scott just for the crack. Cruised the crux moves. gutted. must get back on the lead! Safe with tricams
Nearly.... nearly had it on the lead. Gave up trying and opted to second scott just for the crack. Cruised the crux moves. gutted. must get back on the lead! Safe with tricams
tunnah 2 Jul, 2017 2nd RP
Scott Quinn 2 Jul, 2017 Lead RP Such an awesome route! Close to the o/s 2nd go with chris's runners in really safe tricams seem to be good for this route....top out was abit offwidthyy the way I did it
Such an awesome route! Close to the o/s 2nd go with chris's runners in really safe tricams seem to be good for this route....top out was abit offwidthyy the way I did it
Mike Todd 11 Jun, 2017 Lead RP Got through all of the hard climbing without any issues only for it to start raining. The top out was soaked and I slipped off on the HVS ground. Next time.
Got through all of the hard climbing without any issues only for it to start raining. The top out was soaked and I slipped off on the HVS ground. Next time.
Mike Todd 7 Jun, 2017 TR dog On the shunt.
On the shunt.
Hidden 1 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 23 Oct, 2016 Lead G/U 2nd go. fell off the last move. found a way to do it static the second time round which was disappointingly easy. fortunately Deacon made it look really hard. Really good gear, very safe.
2nd go. fell off the last move. found a way to do it static the second time round which was disappointingly easy. fortunately Deacon made it look really hard. Really good gear, very safe.
deacondeacon 23 Oct, 2016 Lead G/U Nice and safe. Took four goes I think. Crux right at the top where it should be :)
Nice and safe. Took four goes I think. Crux right at the top where it should be :)
GPN 10 Apr, 2016 Lead G/U Safe(ish) but exciting! Got stuck at the break on the first go - hung on for ages until I worked out the sequence, but was too pumped to go for it! Abseiled and stripped the gear. Waited a few hours for the sun to go and all went well 2nd time round :-)
with net
Safe(ish) but exciting! Got stuck at the break on the first go - hung on for ages until I worked out the sequence, but was too pumped to go for it! Abseiled and stripped the gear. Waited a few hours for the sun to go and all went well 2nd time round :-)
with net
Mike Todd 5 Apr, 2016 TR dog Another top rope session - ready for the lead now.
with Harrogate MC
Another top rope session - ready for the lead now.
with Harrogate MC
Rachel Slater 10 Oct, 2015 2nd rpt
tim newton 10 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
nick ferro 5 Sep, 2015 TR 1 rest - awesome route - wish I was strong enough for the lead.
with Oli Birkill
1 rest - awesome route - wish I was strong enough for the lead.
with Oli Birkill
BRoe 2 Sep, 2015 Lead G/U Close to the onsight, found it hard to commit from the break but went easily when I got around that :) Awesome route!
with Chief, whitehouse_rhys
Close to the onsight, found it hard to commit from the break but went easily when I got around that :) Awesome route!
with Chief, whitehouse_rhys
Mike Todd 30 Aug, 2015 TR RP
with Harrogate MC
with Harrogate MC
robertmctague 8 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S 2nd E5 onsight, first one on grit.
with Tom, Kirsty, Andy, Rachel
2nd E5 onsight, first one on grit.
with Tom, Kirsty, Andy, Rachel
climberchristy 2 Jun, 2015 Lead RP My first E5. Had a couple of tries at this in recent weeks. Managed to string it all together in clean lead today. Really pleased. Excellent route! Deserves more than 3 stars!
with bencole
My first E5. Had a couple of tries at this in recent weeks. Managed to string it all together in clean lead today. Really pleased. Excellent route! Deserves more than 3 stars!
with bencole
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 30 May, 2015 Lead G/U
LRob 12 May, 2015 Lead O/S Good kit and safe
Good kit and safe
LRob 12 May, 2015 Lead O/S Good kit and safe
Good kit and safe
davebrox 12 May, 2015 2nd
with Lee
with Lee
Hidden 18 Oct, 2014 Lead
Hidden 13 Oct, 2014 TR
Stone Muppet 22 Aug, 2014 TR dog Too weak!
with ah
Too weak!
with ah
robman 18 Aug, 2014 Lead dog rested on the gear after getting flash pump, clean to the top after that. Should have warmed up!!
rested on the gear after getting flash pump, clean to the top after that. Should have warmed up!!
Rachel Slater 20 May, 2014 TR O/S Didn't feel too hard, should probably try and lead next time.
Didn't feel too hard, should probably try and lead next time.
Olli-C 17 May, 2014 2nd dog Brilliant route, rested at the hard move going up the the jug.
with Swanny
Brilliant route, rested at the hard move going up the the jug.
with Swanny
David Sherratt 28 Apr, 2014 Lead RP
Luke Brooks 17 Mar, 2014 Lead Ground up, 1 fall at top.
with Delyth
Ground up, 1 fall at top.
with Delyth
Hidden 12 Mar, 2014 Lead RP
Wizzy 9 Mar, 2014 Lead RP An amazing route with good gear and great moves. Got to be a contender for the best route on grit!!!Took 2 visits, the first saw a big fall from the top witnessed by Dave Birkett of all people...
An amazing route with good gear and great moves. Got to be a contender for the best route on grit!!!Took 2 visits, the first saw a big fall from the top witnessed by Dave Birkett of all people...
Nez ??, 2014 -
Hidden 30 Oct, 2013 Lead RP
ejected ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
dominic lee 22 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
a13x 20 May, 2012 TR dog
with kyaizawa, Michael Mason
with kyaizawa, Michael Mason
willbatho 9 Aug, 2011 TR
JulesV 19 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
ollyroberts 19 Mar, 2011 Lead rpt
with Ben
with Ben
ollyroberts 4 Mar, 2011 Lead dog Off top hold!
with Will
Off top hold!
with Will
phil64 ??, 2011 -
Adam Lincoln 7 Nov, 2010 Lead β
with Jordan Buys
with Jordan Buys
Jordan B 7 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
with Adam Lincoln
with Adam Lincoln
akhughes 25 Oct, 2010 Lead β
Hidden 26 Sep, 2010 Lead
Hidden 25 Sep, 2010 Lead dnf
Pippa 18 Sep, 2010 TR
simon kimber 17 May, 2010 Lead rpt
with Fabrizio Della Rossa
with Fabrizio Della Rossa
Hidden 16 May, 2010 TR O/S
simon kimber 15 May, 2010 Lead dnf went for the onsight, got massively pumped, slapped the top ledge and took the lob. will be back
with Jim Rogers
went for the onsight, got massively pumped, slapped the top ledge and took the lob. will be back
with Jim Rogers
Hidden 2 Apr, 2010 TR O/S
Hidden 27 Mar, 2010 2nd rpt
Hidden 27 Mar, 2010 Lead dnf
markalmack 21 Mar, 2010 Lead rpt
with gcap
with gcap
Dave Musgrove Jnr 13 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
with Viginia Cooper
with Viginia Cooper
mattyork2 31 Jan, 2010 Lead dnf Another good learning experience on the way to elusive frist e5 onsight. First go - confused on traverse and didn't know where to go and didn't go far enough - pumped out and slumped! Pulled ropes. Second go - found early move off crimps even harder. Scraped it to good break clipped gear - caught jacket on a sharp pebble on the traverse and had to reverse a move to get it off - first jug - second jug -layed one on the for the top and took a 9 metre 'noooooo!' Next time - got the beta written down - fitter - less brave - place more gear - psyched
with YUMC Joe, Johnny Richard, petellis
Another good learning experience on the way to elusive frist e5 onsight. First go - confused on traverse and didn't know where to go and didn't go far enough - pumped out and slumped! Pulled ropes. Second go - found early move off crimps even harder. Scraped it to good break clipped gear - caught jacket on a sharp pebble on the traverse and had to reverse a move to get it off - first jug - second jug -layed one on the for the top and took a 9 metre 'noooooo!' Next time - got the beta written down - fitter - less brave - place more gear - psyched
with YUMC Joe, Johnny Richard, petellis
Adam Ellwood 11 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
Boy ?Oct, 2009 -
with Rob Smith
with Rob Smith
markalmack 20 Sep, 2009 Lead RP last 2 cams were not the best making the slap to the top ledge feel very nice when i got it. First E5 - sweet!!! i thought it was easier than some E4's ive done, but cant compare to other E5s.
with anna baker
last 2 cams were not the best making the slap to the top ledge feel very nice when i got it. First E5 - sweet!!! i thought it was easier than some E4's ive done, but cant compare to other E5s.
with anna baker
Rich Guest 25 Jul, 2009 Lead RP Rare but possibly introductory headpoint ascent. Enjoyed three short sessions of practice but the lead represented the first clean ascent throughout. Great climbing and still surprisingly adreneline fuelled!
Rare but possibly introductory headpoint ascent. Enjoyed three short sessions of practice but the lead represented the first clean ascent throughout. Great climbing and still surprisingly adreneline fuelled!
Hidden 25 Jul, 2009 Lead RP
miastacey 25 Apr, 2009 2nd
with Bob Smith
with Bob Smith
Dan Mckinlay ??, 2009 Lead RP
mikekeswick 12 Oct, 2008 TR RP great route,v.sustained
with dunny
great route,v.sustained
with dunny
Toby Dunn 26 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with nigel poustie
with nigel poustie
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 TR
alaan 21 Oct, 2007 Lead rpt Attempted this climb last year (to the day, coincidentally) but fell from the last crux. Went smoothly this time - brilliant climbing!
Attempted this climb last year (to the day, coincidentally) but fell from the last crux. Went smoothly this time - brilliant climbing!
furry 6 Jun, 2007 TR dog
with LMC
with LMC
howlingbaboon 27 Apr, 2007 TR dnf
Scott Anderson 27 Apr, 2007 TR
Hidden 9 Dec, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Sep, 2006 Lead β
Ram MkiV 4 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S Wasn't expecting it to be so sustained. 3 distinct crux sections with semi rests/shake outs in between. Brilliant. Was pumped by the end and was quite dynamic off the final pinch to the top.
with Dan and Nick
Wasn't expecting it to be so sustained. 3 distinct crux sections with semi rests/shake outs in between. Brilliant. Was pumped by the end and was quite dynamic off the final pinch to the top.
with Dan and Nick
Tony Little 30 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S Chose a bit too warm a day for this one, had to slap the top facing a possible monster whipper!
with Daniel Stevenson
Chose a bit too warm a day for this one, had to slap the top facing a possible monster whipper!
with Daniel Stevenson
Brown 19 Feb, 2006 Lead dog
with Paul
with Paul
mikekeswick ?Feb, 2006 TR RP
with leif
with leif
Rik Dawes ??, 2006 TR RP
pezzerrr 6 Jul, 2004 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??, 2004 Lead 2nd day!
with EmilyG
2nd day!
with EmilyG
PaulTanton 19 Apr, 2002 Lead O/S Grit masterpiece
with John Hardiman
Grit masterpiece
with John Hardiman
The Jazz Butcher ??, 2001 Lead RP
with Steve Wilson
with Steve Wilson
Roget 27 Oct, 1999 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Jon Read ?Sep, 1998 Lead RP
with Tanya Holdsworth
with Tanya Holdsworth
charmoz ?Jun, 1998 Lead RP Seconded my brother, then pulled the ropes and led on his gear.
Seconded my brother, then pulled the ropes and led on his gear.
jameshiggins 19 Apr, 1998 Lead RP
Steve Crowe ?Feb, 1998 Lead O/S circa Feb 1998. Classic pump fest! Looked at it closely from all angles. Above and below but not by abseil.
with karin
circa Feb 1998. Classic pump fest! Looked at it closely from all angles. Above and below but not by abseil.
with karin
Hidden ??, 1997 -
SR1970 ?Jun, 1996 Lead RP
leathers 28 Apr, 1996 2nd O/S
with Julian Simmons
with Julian Simmons
Hidden 1 Aug, 1995 Lead
Rich Kirby 21 May, 1995 2nd rpt
Tom Briggs 21 May, 1995 Lead
uphillnow ??, 1995 2nd Mick Johnson lead it and a team seconded it
Mick Johnson lead it and a team seconded it
Seymore Butt ??, 1995 TR
with Roy
with Roy
Evoman ?Jul, 1994 Solo My first E5
with Jon Read
My first E5
with Jon Read
Bruce Kerr 23 May, 1993 2nd
with Jason ?
with Jason ?
UKB Shark ?Mar, 1993 Lead β Took over the lead from Andy for the only time ever after he had done the hard work putting the wires in.
with Andy Perkins
Took over the lead from Andy for the only time ever after he had done the hard work putting the wires in.
with Andy Perkins
adam carless ??, 1993 TR dog sandbagged by one of the uni stars who led it with ease
with Someone from YUMC
sandbagged by one of the uni stars who led it with ease
with Someone from YUMC
Hidden 15 Aug, 1992 TR O/S
mik1miller ??, 1991 Lead O/S
with luke steer, elliot blaylock
with luke steer, elliot blaylock
Hidden 6 Jan, 1990 2nd dog
rob.grafton ??, 1990 -
with barry maybank
with barry maybank
Smith42 ??, 1989 Lead RP Think must have TR first.
with Jim Fennel
Think must have TR first.
with Jim Fennel
Rich Kirby ?Nov, 1988 Lead β Abbed down...checked out gear placements ...prior to lead.
with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly
Abbed down...checked out gear placements ...prior to lead.
with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
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Style of ascent
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