Rockfax Description
14m. The soaring left wall of the rift offers a sterling challenge. Climb the crack to its end then a thinner crack to its termination. From here poor pockets (and bold climbing) lead slightly rightwards to the top © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the initail crack, move left to a smaller crack, up this then right to better holds, from where you can gather your thoughts before committing to the finish.

Mike Hammill, Al Manson. Sep/1977

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Trad climbs for sport climbers, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Rockfall Northern England top 50, James' Winter Grit ticklist, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven..

CMoore 02/Jul 2nd RP

Nearly.... nearly had it on the lead. Gave up trying and opted to second scott just for the crack. Cruised the crux moves. gutted. must get back on the lead! Safe with tricams

tunnah 02/Jul 2nd RP
Scott Quinn 02/Jul Lead RP

Such an awesome route! Close to the o/s 2nd go with chris's runners in really safe tricams seem to be good for this route....top out was abit offwidthyy the way I did it

Mike Todd 11/Jun Lead dnf

Damn it!! Got through all of the hard climbing without any issues only for it to start raining. The top out was soaked and I slipped off on the HVS ground. Next time.

Mike Todd 07/Jun TR dog

On the shunt.

Jono_LS16 04/Jun Lead dog

2 falls from the last move ground up. 3rd go took the fall from the top, then finished. Good to have a bash, one to come back for.

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 23/Oct/16 Lead G/U

2nd go. fell off the last move. found a way to do it static the second time round which was disappointingly easy. fortunately Deacon made it look really hard. Really good gear, very safe.

with Deacon
deacondeacon 23/Oct/16 Lead G/U

Nice and safe. Took four goes I think. Crux right at the top where it should be :)

GPN 10/Apr/16 Lead G/U

Safe(ish) but exciting! Got stuck at the break on the first go - hung on for ages until I worked out the sequence, but was too pumped to go for it! Abseiled and stripped the gear. Waited a few hours for the sun to go and all went well 2nd time round :-)

with Annette
Mike Todd 05/Apr/16 TR dog

Another top rope session - ready for the lead now.

with Harrogate MC
Rachel Slater 10/Oct/15 2nd rpt
tim newton 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
nick ferro 05/Sep/15 TR

1 rest - awesome route - wish I was strong enough for the lead.

with Oli Birkill
BRoe 02/Sep/15 Lead G/U

Close to the onsight, found it hard to commit from the break but went easily when I got around that :) Awesome route!

with Chief, whitehouse_rhys
Mike Todd 30/Aug/15 TR RP
with Harrogate MC
robertmctague 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S

2nd E5 onsight, first one on grit.

with Tom, Kirsty, Andy, Rachel
climberchristy 02/Jun/15 Lead RP

My first E5. Had a couple of tries at this in recent weeks. Managed to string it all together in clean ground up lead today. Really pleased. Excellent route! Deserves more than 3 stars!

with bencole
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 30/May/15 Lead G/U
LRob 12/May/15 Lead O/S

Good kit and safe

LRob 12/May/15 Lead O/S

Good kit and safe

davebrox 12/May/15 2nd
with Lee
GeoffG 18/Oct/14 Lead
with tim lowe
Hidden 13/Oct/14 TR
Stone Muppet 22/Aug/14 TR dog

Too weak!

with ah
robman 18/Aug/14 Lead dog

rested on the gear after getting flash pump, clean to the top after that. Should have warmed up!!

Rachel Slater 20/May/14 TR O/S

Didn't feel too hard, should probably try and lead next time.

Olli-C 17/May/14 2nd dog

Brilliant route, rested at the hard move going up the the jug.

with Swanny
David Sherratt 28/Apr/14 Lead RP
Luke Brooks 17/Mar/14 Lead

Ground up, 1 fall at top.

with Delyth
Wizzy 09/Mar/14 Lead RP

An amazing route with good gear and great moves. Got to be a contender for the best route on grit!!!Took 2 visits, the first saw a big fall from the top witnessed by Dave Birkett of all people...

Nez ??/2014 -
dunnyg 30/Oct/13 Lead RP

top roped twice then lead. Cold and windy. Gear in place at top (eps and some of cams below). cool climbing!

with jonno, dan mkinley
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/12 Lead O/S
dominic lee 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
a13x 20/May/12 TR dog
with Ky Aizawa, Michael Mason
willbatho 09/Aug/11 TR
JulesV 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Shauna Cunningham
ollyroberts 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Ben
ollyroberts 04/Mar/11 Lead dog

Off top hold!

with Will
phil64 ??/2011 -
Adam Lincoln 07/Nov/10 Lead β
with Jordan Buys
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
akhughes 25/Oct/10 Lead β
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead dnf
Pippa 18/Sep/10 TR
with Jon
simon kimber 17/May/10 Lead rpt
with Fabrizio Della Rossa
Hidden 16/May/10 TR O/S
simon kimber 15/May/10 Lead dnf

went for the onsight, got massively pumped, slapped the top ledge and took the lob. will be back

with Jim Rogers
Hidden 02/Apr/10 TR O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead dnf
markalmack 21/Mar/10 Lead rpt
Dave Musgrove Jnr 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Viginia Cooper
mattyork2 31/Jan/10 Lead dnf

Another good learning experience on the way to elusive frist e5 onsight. First go - confused on traverse and didn't know where to go and didn't go far enough - pumped out and slumped! Pulled ropes. Second go - found early move off crimps even harder. Scraped it to good break clipped gear - caught jacket on a sharp pebble on the traverse and had to reverse a move to get it off - first jug - second jug -layed one on the for the top and took a 9 metre 'noooooo!' Next time - got the beta written down - fitter - less brave - place more gear - psyched

with YUMC Joe, Johnny Richard, Pete Ellis
Adam Ellwood 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Boy ?/Oct/09 -
with Rob Smith
markalmack 20/Sep/09 Lead RP

last 2 cams were not the best making the slap to the top ledge feel very nice when i got it. First E5 - sweet!!! i thought it was easier than some E4's ive done, but cant compare to other E5s.

with anna baker
Cragrat Rich 25/Jul/09 Lead RP

Rare but possibly introductory headpoint ascent. Enjoyed three short sessions of practice but the lead represented the first clean ascent throughout. Great climbing and still surprisingly adreneline fuelled!

Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead RP
miastacey 25/Apr/09 2nd
with Bob Smith
Dan Mckinlay ??/2009 Lead RP
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
mikekeswick 12/Oct/08 TR RP

great route,v.sustained

with dunny
Toby Dunn 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with nigel poustie
Hidden ?/Jun/08 TR
alaan 21/Oct/07 Lead rpt

Attempted this climb last year (to the day, coincidentally) but fell from the last crux. Went smoothly this time - brilliant climbing!

furry 06/Jun/07 TR dog
with LMC
howlingbaboon 27/Apr/07 TR dnf
with Scott
Scott Anderson 27/Apr/07 TR
Hidden 09/Dec/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/06 Lead β
Ram MkiV 04/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Wasn't expecting it to be so sustained. 3 distinct crux sections with semi rests/shake outs in between. Brilliant. Was pumped by the end and was quite dynamic off the final pinch to the top.

with Dan and Nick
Tony Little 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Chose a bit too warm a day for this one, had to slap the top facing a possible monster whipper!

with Daniel Stevenson
Brown 19/Feb/06 Lead dog
with Paul
mikekeswick ?/Feb/06 TR RP
with leif
Rik Dawes ??/2006 TR RP
pezzerrr 06/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??/2004 Lead

2nd day!

PaulTanton 19/Apr/02 Lead O/S

Grit masterpiece

with John Hardiman
The Jazz Butcher ??/2001 Lead RP
with Steve Wilson
Roget 27/Oct/99 Lead O/S
with jon
Steve Crowe ??/1999 Lead O/S

circa 1999. Classic. Looked at it closely from all angles. Above and below but not by abseil.

with KM
Jon Read ?/Sep/98 Lead RP
with Tanya Holdsworth
charmoz ?/Jun/98 Lead RP

Seconded my brother, then pulled the ropes and led on his gear.

jameshiggins 19/Apr/98 Lead RP
Hidden ??/1997 -
Hidden ?/Jun/96 Lead RP
leathers 28/Apr/96 2nd O/S
with Julian Simmons
Hidden 01/Aug/95 Lead
Rich Kirby 21/May/95 2nd rpt
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 21/May/95 Lead
uphillnow ??/1995 2nd

Mick Johnson lead it and a team seconded it

Evoman ?/Jul/94 Solo

My first E5

with Jon Read
Bruce Kerr 23/May/93 2nd
with Jason ?
ukb & bmc shark ?/Mar/93 Lead β

Took over the lead from Andy for the only time ever after he had done the hard work putting the wires in.

with Andy Perkins
adam carless ??/1993 TR dog

sandbagged by one of the uni stars who led it with ease

with Someone from YUMC
Hidden 15/Aug/92 TR O/S
mik1miller ??/1991 Lead O/S
with luke steer, elliot blaylock
Hidden 06/Jan/90 2nd dog
rob.grafton ??/1990 -
with barry maybank
Smith42 ??/1989 Lead RP

With Jim Fennell

Rich Kirby ?/Nov/88 Lead β

Abbed down...checked out gear placements ...prior to lead.

with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly
Paul Clarke ??/1984 Lead
with Gary Nuttall
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Style of ascent
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Ground Up
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