Rockfax Description
14m. The soaring left wall of the rift offers a sterling challenge. Climb the crack to its end then a thinner crack to its termination. From here poor pockets (and bold climbing) lead slightly rightwards to the top © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the initail crack, move left to a smaller crack, up this then right to better holds, from where you can gather your thoughts before committing to the finish.

Mike Hammill, Al Manson. Sep/1977

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Trad climbs for sport climbers, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Routes 2018, Rockfall Northern England top 50, James' Winter Grit ticklist, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven., Rockfax Top 50 - Northern England.

Jon Read 20/Oct/18 TR

Memory lane. Found wanting!

with Chris Jewell
JendeHoxar 08/Aug/18 2nd dog
with Flavio
Flavio 08/Aug/18 Lead O/S

Long time waiting for my first midweek after work E5

spidermonkey09 16/Dec/17 Lead G/U

Stonking route. Got pumped and went wrong way first go, slightly higher second go to the pinch. Third go felt great. Fantastic moves and great gear as long as you have the guns to hang around and place it.

with Josh Pollard
mrteale 15/Oct/17 Lead

Ground up. First go today (3rd overall), Felt a lot more straightforward than last week. Best route I've done on grit (controversially because it doesn't really climb like grit!). Thought the route exited out right at the top and had a hilarious grovel top out which ended up feeling like the crux.

Teappleby 15/Oct/17 Lead G/U

3rd go. Did not disappoint. Bon route.

benkelsey 15/Oct/17 Lead G/U

First attempt at an E5 onsight, fell off the crux. Sent next go as a clip up on Ed's gear. Great climbing with a committing throw to latch the top

mrteale 07/Oct/17 Lead dnf

Gutted to blow the onsight right near the top. Had one more go and fell at the top going slightly the wrong way, think I know what to do now. Hopefully tick it off this Saturday.

with DanOsb
Matt Cooke 23/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with tsl42
tsl42 23/Sep/17 2nd dog
Jono_1989 04/Aug/17 Lead G/U
CMoore 02/Jul/17 2nd RP

Nearly.... nearly had it on the lead. Gave up trying and opted to second scott just for the crack. Cruised the crux moves. gutted. must get back on the lead! Safe with tricams

tunnah 02/Jul/17 2nd RP
Scott Quinn 02/Jul/17 Lead RP

Such an awesome route! Close to the o/s 2nd go with chris's runners in really safe tricams seem to be good for this out was abit offwidthyy the way I did it

Mike Todd 11/Jun/17 Lead RP

Got through all of the hard climbing without any issues only for it to start raining. The top out was soaked and I slipped off on the HVS ground. Next time.

Mike Todd 07/Jun/17 TR dog

On the shunt.

Hidden 01/Mar/17 Lead O/S
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 23/Oct/16 Lead G/U

2nd go. fell off the last move. found a way to do it static the second time round which was disappointingly easy. fortunately Deacon made it look really hard. Really good gear, very safe.

deacondeacon 23/Oct/16 Lead G/U

Nice and safe. Took four goes I think. Crux right at the top where it should be :)

GPN 10/Apr/16 Lead G/U

Safe(ish) but exciting! Got stuck at the break on the first go - hung on for ages until I worked out the sequence, but was too pumped to go for it! Abseiled and stripped the gear. Waited a few hours for the sun to go and all went well 2nd time round :-)

with net
Mike Todd 05/Apr/16 TR dog

Another top rope session - ready for the lead now.

with Harrogate MC
Rachel Slater 10/Oct/15 2nd rpt
tim newton 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
nick ferro 05/Sep/15 TR

1 rest - awesome route - wish I was strong enough for the lead.

with Oli Birkill
BRoe 02/Sep/15 Lead G/U

Close to the onsight, found it hard to commit from the break but went easily when I got around that :) Awesome route!

with Chief, whitehouse_rhys
Mike Todd 30/Aug/15 TR RP
with Harrogate MC
robertmctague 08/Jun/15 Lead O/S

2nd E5 onsight, first one on grit.

with Tom, Kirsty, Andy, Rachel
climberchristy 02/Jun/15 Lead RP

My first E5. Had a couple of tries at this in recent weeks. Managed to string it all together in clean lead today. Really pleased. Excellent route! Deserves more than 3 stars!

with bencole
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 30/May/15 Lead G/U
LRob 12/May/15 Lead O/S

Good kit and safe

LRob 12/May/15 Lead O/S

Good kit and safe

davebrox 12/May/15 2nd
with Lee
Hidden 18/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 13/Oct/14 TR
Stone Muppet 22/Aug/14 TR dog

Too weak!

with ah
robman 18/Aug/14 Lead dog

rested on the gear after getting flash pump, clean to the top after that. Should have warmed up!!

Rachel Slater 20/May/14 TR O/S

Didn't feel too hard, should probably try and lead next time.

Olli-C 17/May/14 2nd dog

Brilliant route, rested at the hard move going up the the jug.

with Swanny
David Sherratt 28/Apr/14 Lead RP
Luke Brooks 17/Mar/14 Lead

Ground up, 1 fall at top.

with Delyth
Hidden 12/Mar/14 Lead RP
Wizzy 09/Mar/14 Lead RP

An amazing route with good gear and great moves. Got to be a contender for the best route on grit!!!Took 2 visits, the first saw a big fall from the top witnessed by Dave Birkett of all people...

Nez ??/2014 -
Hidden 30/Oct/13 Lead RP
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/12 Lead O/S
dominic lee 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
a13x 20/May/12 TR dog
with kyaizawa, Michael Mason
willbatho 09/Aug/11 TR
JulesV 19/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Shauna Cunningham
ollyroberts 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Ben
ollyroberts 04/Mar/11 Lead dog

Off top hold!

with Will
phil64 ??/2011 -
Adam Lincoln 07/Nov/10 Lead β
with Jordan Buys
Jordan B 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Adam Lincoln
akhughes 25/Oct/10 Lead β
Hidden 26/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead dnf
Pippa 18/Sep/10 TR
simon kimber 17/May/10 Lead rpt
with Fabrizio Della Rossa
Hidden 16/May/10 TR O/S
simon kimber 15/May/10 Lead dnf

went for the onsight, got massively pumped, slapped the top ledge and took the lob. will be back

with Jim Rogers
Hidden 02/Apr/10 TR O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead dnf
markalmack 21/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with gcap
Dave Musgrove Jnr 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Viginia Cooper
mattyork2 31/Jan/10 Lead dnf

Another good learning experience on the way to elusive frist e5 onsight. First go - confused on traverse and didn't know where to go and didn't go far enough - pumped out and slumped! Pulled ropes. Second go - found early move off crimps even harder. Scraped it to good break clipped gear - caught jacket on a sharp pebble on the traverse and had to reverse a move to get it off - first jug - second jug -layed one on the for the top and took a 9 metre 'noooooo!' Next time - got the beta written down - fitter - less brave - place more gear - psyched

with YUMC Joe, Johnny Richard, petellis
Adam Ellwood 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Boy ?/Oct/09 -
with Rob Smith
markalmack 20/Sep/09 Lead RP

last 2 cams were not the best making the slap to the top ledge feel very nice when i got it. First E5 - sweet!!! i thought it was easier than some E4's ive done, but cant compare to other E5s.

with anna baker
Rich Guest 25/Jul/09 Lead RP

Rare but possibly introductory headpoint ascent. Enjoyed three short sessions of practice but the lead represented the first clean ascent throughout. Great climbing and still surprisingly adreneline fuelled!

Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead RP
miastacey 25/Apr/09 2nd
with Bob Smith
Dan Mckinlay ??/2009 Lead RP
mikekeswick 12/Oct/08 TR RP

great route,v.sustained

with dunny
Toby Dunn 26/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with nigel poustie
Hidden ?/Jun/08 TR
alaan 21/Oct/07 Lead rpt

Attempted this climb last year (to the day, coincidentally) but fell from the last crux. Went smoothly this time - brilliant climbing!

furry 06/Jun/07 TR dog
with LMC
howlingbaboon 27/Apr/07 TR dnf
Scott Anderson 27/Apr/07 TR
Hidden 09/Dec/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/06 Lead β
Ram MkiV 04/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Wasn't expecting it to be so sustained. 3 distinct crux sections with semi rests/shake outs in between. Brilliant. Was pumped by the end and was quite dynamic off the final pinch to the top.

with Dan and Nick
Tony Little 30/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Chose a bit too warm a day for this one, had to slap the top facing a possible monster whipper!

with Daniel Stevenson
Brown 19/Feb/06 Lead dog
with Paul
mikekeswick ?/Feb/06 TR RP
with leif
Rik Dawes ??/2006 TR RP
pezzerrr 06/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??/2004 Lead

2nd day!

with EmilyG
PaulTanton 19/Apr/02 Lead O/S

Grit masterpiece

with John Hardiman
The Jazz Butcher ??/2001 Lead RP
with Steve Wilson
Roget 27/Oct/99 Lead O/S
with jon
Jon Read ?/Sep/98 Lead RP
with Tanya Holdsworth
charmoz ?/Jun/98 Lead RP

Seconded my brother, then pulled the ropes and led on his gear.

jameshiggins 19/Apr/98 Lead RP
Steve Crowe ?/Feb/98 Lead O/S

circa Feb 1998. Classic pump fest! Looked at it closely from all angles. Above and below but not by abseil.

with karin
Hidden ??/1997 -
SR1970 ?/Jun/96 Lead RP
leathers 28/Apr/96 2nd O/S
with Julian Simmons
Hidden 01/Aug/95 Lead
Rich Kirby 21/May/95 2nd rpt
Tom Briggs 21/May/95 Lead
uphillnow ??/1995 2nd

Mick Johnson lead it and a team seconded it

Seymore Butt ??/1995 TR
with Roy
Evoman ?/Jul/94 Solo

My first E5

with Jon Read
Bruce Kerr 23/May/93 2nd
with Jason ?
UKB Shark ?/Mar/93 Lead β

Took over the lead from Andy for the only time ever after he had done the hard work putting the wires in.

with Andy Perkins
adam carless ??/1993 TR dog

sandbagged by one of the uni stars who led it with ease

with Someone from YUMC
Hidden 15/Aug/92 TR O/S
mik1miller ??/1991 Lead O/S
with luke steer, elliot blaylock
Hidden 06/Jan/90 2nd dog
rob.grafton ??/1990 -
with barry maybank
Hidden ??/1989 Lead RP
Rich Kirby ?/Nov/88 Lead β

Abbed down...checked out gear placements ...prior to lead.

with Graham Cairns/Ray Kelly
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
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