Rockfax Description
12m. Climb the once-pegged crack then trend left past a second crack and a useful pocket. Finish more easily. Sadly, the route is often green, so if you find it clean, get it done. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven, Allan Austin Classics, The All New 3 Star Way to Yorkshire Gritstone Heaven..

hthom 26/Aug/17 2nd O/S
g1m147 06/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Mick.
Hidden 30/Jul/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Flavio 26/May/17 Solo O/S
scarmichael 25/May/17 2nd
with jfox
Hidden 25/May/17 Lead
Graeme Hammond 24/Apr/17 Lead β

Abseiled down and pulled loads grass and mud out of the route and gave it a light brush, it however needed far more time spent cleaning it properly. Therefore it still felt hard and difficult to place gear in the muddy crack whilst holding on to dirty holds, a hail storm didn't help but I pulled through, one I won't forget in a hurry.

with Matt G
Ben C ??/2017 Solo
Hidden 13/Sep/16 Lead O/S
TRFrost 11/Sep/16 2nd
with W. Kelsall
Hidden 10/Sep/16 Lead β
Dave Warburton 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Deezel65 01/Aug/16 Lead O/S

In awful condition - green/gritty with lots of Lichen made for a scary climb

Hidden 01/Aug/16 2nd
PeteWilson 06/Jun/16 Lead O/S

on johns gear. good lead by john, I found it a bit scary, didn't trust my feet on the dirty rock

with John P, Dave
chrishedgehog 30/May/16 Lead O/S

Lovely route. Didn't do it justice. Doesn't look *** from the ground but have faith.

with Simon
benkelsey 16/May/16 Lead O/S

Very dirty and blind, with an inch of green mould running down from the mid heigh break.... not worth three stars in current condition but needs more traffic. Was quite scary.

with Mark day
royalste45 16/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with David coates
ladymuck 10/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Maddie
Maddie 10/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with kim
Hidden 01/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/15 Lead O/S
mcb 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Really nice, as clean as it needs to be atm, lovely, balancey technical grit. Deserves its 3 stars!

with Sally Byrne, Miles Ridley
Alpenglow 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Bit dirty but moves flow nicely and never too hard. Gear where you need it.

thomaspomfrett 04/Jun/15 2nd β
with Ed Poulter, Pat Brien
davebrox 12/May/15 -
Rob Davies 22/Mar/15 Lead

Very green at this time of year but climbable. 2nd DNF

with Phil Ashton
Andy Moles 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Ferdia
ferdia 05/Oct/14 2nd
Calum Wadsworth 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Nice but filthy. Needs more traffic.

with Bruce
Hidden 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Gordon W ?/Jul/14 Lead RP

First HVS lead

scarmichael ?/Jun/14 Lead β

delicate technical moves and very enjoyable

karly54 21/May/14 Lead
pie_eater_pete 20/May/14 Lead rpt
jessericson 14/May/14 2nd dog
robman 14/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
Hidden 14/Nov/13 Lead
Hidden 14/Nov/13 2nd O/S
Will Hunt 28/Sep/13 2nd rpt
with Lawrence Furse
Matt Cooke 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Andrew Cooke
Hidden 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
ERH ?/Aug/13 2nd
with Ben Finley
Hidden 29/Jul/13 Lead
Jono_LS16 25/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/13 Lead O/S
erica 05/Jul/13 2nd dog
with John
John Brayshaw 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Erica
tobyk 30/Jun/13 Lead

One fall.

with simon
pedrosanpb 22/May/13 TR O/S

great climb. interesting moves

with Soren waters
maumau 22/May/13 TR dog
Seymore Butt ??/2013 -
karly54 26/Jun/12 TR
with Paul Cookson
cookacat 11/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Really rather good, needs traffic! Bit of belay faff at the top because I led on a halved 50m rope, ended up abbing. Worth it!

with Dafydd
Nickster ?/Jun/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/May/12 2nd rpt
PaulHermes 27/May/12 2nd

This route deserves trafic!! It is superb and tests every technique of climbing. Good lead Paul!

with Paul VCCC
pastep 27/May/12 Lead O/S

Top quality climb *** just enough gear just enough holds.

alias dave 05/May/12 2nd O/S
with Sam.EB
Hidden 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
Hidden 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Will Hunt 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S


with Duncan MacNeil
roberto18 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Excellent climb, if it is in condition, get on this route, the more people who climb it the better if will get.

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
mike bridges 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S

harder than i thought it would be!

Mattyk 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Harder than i remembered

Ewan Russell 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 21/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/11 2nd
Cake 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Very good. Worth all the stars. I'm glad I got on this innocuous-looking climb

with Matt
Peter Holder 03/May/11 2nd
with Connor Cussel
Hidden 03/May/11 Lead O/S
thetradlad 02/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/11 2nd rpt
andy mcc 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Robin Nicholson
Scottish78 ??/2011 -
pie_eater_pete 14/Oct/10 Lead
Mattyk 13/Oct/10 Lead

Superb.. Seconded about 4 years ago but really superb climbing. Every bit of it was a nice move.

Hidden 13/Oct/10 Lead β
Hidden 12/Sep/10 -
kieranlivett 19/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with nick valente
Hidden 19/Aug/10 Lead O/S
petellis 16/Aug/10 2nd rpt
mattyork2 16/Aug/10 Lead β
petellis 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S

A good route and clan at the moment.

Chriswallis2 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S


with Pete
Sean_J 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Route cleaned 3/7/10 - now go climb it yourself and give it some much-deserved traffic. Loads better than the HVSs in the quarry for sure!

with Robin
lrandall 03/Oct/09 Lead O/S

A grassy top few meters, with no protection for the top-out. Deserving of its stars.

with Andy C
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Andy Hudson 03/Nov/07 TR
with Dan
alaan 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Martin (Almscliff)
jak.kelly 07/Jun/07 Lead β
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Mattyk 30/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Ali K
Hidden 30/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/06 TR O/S
John Kettle 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2004 -
nige 28/Sep/02 Lead
with john buckley
Just Another Dave 06/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with sam kendrick
Hidden ??/2002 2nd O/S
Whealiebob ??/2001 Lead O/S
with Robin
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
ando227 ?/Aug/99 Lead O/S
Roget 10/Jul/99 Solo O/S
chrishedgehog 23/Jun/99 2nd O/S
with Drew
DavidEvans ?/Sep/98 Lead O/S
with William Wilson
Hidden 12/Sep/96 Lead O/S
SR1970 ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
Andy Say 21/Jun/96 Solo
Chris Reid 10/Jul/95 Lead O/S
John Southworth 12/May/94 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 26/Jul/93 Solo O/S
with Steve Brewis
Rich Kirby 17/Jun/92 2nd
Paul Clarke ??/1992 -
Dave Musgrove 21/Sep/91 Solo
with Brian Rossiter, Nigel Baker
Dave Musgrove 05/Aug/91 Lead
with Lyn
crossleysm ??/1991 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/90 2nd
rob.grafton 24/Jul/90 Lead
with Bruce
Neil R 03/Jul/90 Lead O/S
with Sharon
Hidden 20/May/89 Lead O/S
craig h 20/May/89 2nd
pete johnson ??/1989 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 17/Sep/88 Lead
with Mike Boyle
Hidden 15/Sep/88 2nd
Chris Ellis 18/Jun/88 2nd
with Trevor Lilley
Pete Pozman 26/Apr/86 Lead rpt
with Mark Gray
Fakey Rocks ??/1986 Lead
Fakey Rocks ??/1986 Solo
Bullybones ??/1985 Lead
Hidden ??/1985 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/81 Lead
Dave Musgrove 02/Mar/80 -

This was probably a solo ascent on what I have recorded as my 85th visit to Ilkley! The route was a regular favourite by this time and soloed fairly regularly in this era.

charlesmfrench ?/Nov/78 2nd O/S
with Keith Milne, Ian Milne
Dave Musgrove 30/Jun/76 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1975 Lead
with Unsure
Howard Dixon ??/1971 Lead
with Martin Dixon
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 20
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set