1) 6b, 2) 4c, 3) 3, 4) 6a. The original long-side route takes the left-hand crack-system in the front face then easier climbing to the base of the final tower. Finish up the centre of this. Take great care with loose rock on the ledges since there may well be people sun bathing below.
Descent - Abseil down the back of the tower to the col. Scramble across the wide ledge (towards the beach) to a tree and make a further abseil down this to the base of the wall. © Rockfax