Rockfax Description
18m. Fine climbing up the right-hand side of the buttress. Pull through the centre of the bulges - beefy and 5c to impossible for the short. Then move right into the base of the thin seam. Climb this then the blanker slab in the same line by lovely face climbing. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A boulder problem start (just 4c if you sneak in) leads to pleasant padding up the centre of the slab.

BillyR 15/Sep TR O/S

5a approach as per YMC guide.

with Loch
erica 27/Aug 2nd

Started from the side

with John
John Brayshaw 27/Aug Lead rpt
with Erica
sarah hawker 19/Jun TR O/S

Snuck in from the right at about 4c. Absolutely lovely slab and pebbles

with bob
WillDoyle 14/May Lead O/S
ollyroberts 09/May Lead rpt
with Esther Seddon
Hidden 02/May 2nd
petegunn 20/Apr Lead
with Tony J
Tony Jones 19/Apr 2nd

Easy start.

with Pete
Jono_LS16 09/Apr Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 23/Sep/16 2nd rpt
with Gareth
Wayne S 17/Jul/16 2nd O/S
with Dale
D Berry 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Attempted start as per 2014 guide, but couldn't commit to the rock round onto the slab, so went a short way up the chimney. Re- joined the correct line where it breaks from the VS. Lovely slabbing above this, just need to keep your head and it's all fine (which I suspect is what would have worked for the start).

with Wayne S
Hidden 14/Jul/16 Lead G/U
chrishedgehog 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Kev Bowser LMC
Hidden 05/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Jamie Brown 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Mike Shaw, Russ
Dave Richards 04/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with sjbrook
sjbrook 04/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Good gear before the run out. Started up false teeth and traversed in as per YMC guide. 5a.

with Rich, Tom R, PMC
Alex the Alex 24/May/16 Lead O/S

Started on the right and followed the little foot rail right higher up. Felt natural but not hvs this way... Beautiful light and a gorgeous evening.

with DaveyH
Hidden 24/May/16 2nd
ebf 15/May/16 Lead O/S

Started right, but as soon as possible (on the bulge, not above it) traversed left into the very bottom of the climb. The Stephenson Variation - not very well protected. lol. The main climb is lovely; could do with going on like that for another few hundred feet.

PaulHermes 15/May/16 -
pastep 15/May/16 2nd
with ebf
Sophie Nunn 07/May/16 Lead O/S
with Jen D, Phil
JenDurden 07/May/16 2nd
with Sophie
richardt ?/May/16 TR O/S
with Louise Beveridge
Lamb 15/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Matthew Thompson
Roget 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Started from the right

with jim
nick ferro 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/15 2nd
robman 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S
mcb 16/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Easy start in the end as i wasn't v flexible at all today. More superb slab climbing!

tomB 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Ben1983 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Easy start...

freemanTom 15/Aug/15 Lead

Priceless look on Niks face when she got to and saw the blank slab

with Nicky
K Mckay 08/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Chris KMC
scottcoates ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Chris
John Brayshaw 23/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Gareth
John Brayshaw 23/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Gareth
ruairidhwad 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Harrogate Club
MarkAstley 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S

With Martin S. Interesting Start

Mike Todd 30/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Harrogate MC
BnB 24/Jun/15 -
colin milton 24/Jun/15 2nd

started as for false teeth to make a HVS 5a route

with julian
robolomassi 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 04/Jun/15 Lead rpt

R/H start

with Gareth
Will Hunt 27/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Mark Tinsdeall
Hidden 24/Jul/14 2nd
mikestr555 22/Jun/14 Lead
Paul Clarke 11/Jun/14 Solo

Just the start to easing. Joined others on False Teeth at this point.

JenB6 02/Jun/14 2nd
munch88 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with rob
robblowen 06/Aug/13 2nd β
with Munch
Simonpeel 26/Jul/13 TR rpt
Hidden 17/Jul/13 2nd O/S
barney800 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Tough (but fun) start isn't helped by the spiky rock below, but it's well worth it for the slab above. Don't reckon the slab by itself is worth HVS alone.

with Peter Stone, John Shaw
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
BnB 06/Jul/13 -
spragglerocks 09/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Alternate start.

with Jon Morgan
lithos 05/Jun/13 Lead

on paul's gear which i mostly moved about cos im like that, easier start, too fat for the proper one .

with karl c, Puma, oddtoast
Puma 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Took the easy right hand start, no way and can do the direct start at the moment! The slab in the middle is as intimidating as I remember but there is good gear at your feet and really nice and positive smears (you don't even need any hands).

oddtoast 05/Jun/13 2nd

Took sneak start then *amazing* blank-ish slab. Pretty rock at top...

with Paul, lithos
Simonpeel 10/Oct/12 TR β
RM199 09/Sep/12 Lead dnf

Lead from traverse on right as start was nails

bencole ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Andy
BenedictIEP 21/Jul/12 2nd

Pulled on a cam to gain the opening move.

Hardonicus 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Jaysus wept. Direct start, anyone who thinks this is 5b is having a laugh or 7 ft tall. I thought hard 5c for certain. Very nice climbing indeed, 3 stars.

with Ben Powrie
petekeron 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Dickon151 16/May/12 2nd O/S
pebbles 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S

alternative start ie traverse in from right, so 4c. wibbled somewhat on the slab - possibly not an ideal choice for first lead of the day ;-D

with astell
lostinmidlands 23/Jul/11 TR dog

Need to come back to do the hard start cleanly.

topsyturvy 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S

start felt desperate.

with Marcin, Dan Hattle
Gerry_Doncaster 13/Jul/11 -

Can't believe it's only got 2 stars in the guide books. This is one of the very best routes on grit. Superb climbing on a wonderful slab. Even better than the highly rated Dental Slab route to it's left.

Nigel Bond 30/Jun/11 2nd
with ken Daykin
Bloke on a Rope 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Matt
Climbster 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Sep/10 2nd
Will Hunt 27/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Duncan Kaye
DKaye 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove 22/Aug/10 2nd

With right hand start. Direct is now thought to be worth 6a.

with Keith Morgan
Graeme Hammond 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Pete aka Dad
Hidden 15/Aug/10 -
jkarran 15/Aug/10 Lead

Sneaking in from the gully, the start is nails and totally out of balance with the rest of the route.

with Matt
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
mattyork2 15/Aug/10 2nd
VS4b 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
NaomiHart 28/Jun/10 2nd O/S
PeteH 28/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd O/S
odox 23/May/10 2nd

With easy start - direct is nails

with Sam Webb
Will Hunt 15/May/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
cmsg 07/Apr/10 Lead

r-h start

with Luke Gannarelli
mattcyp88 27/Sep/09 Lead β
with John McCormick, Dad
Hidden 09/Aug/09 2nd O/S
petegunn 09/Aug/09 Lead
with Steve, Cas, Tom, Davina
Timpy1584 09/Aug/09 2nd
with Caz, Pete, Davina, Steve
John Brayshaw 07/Aug/09 2nd rpt

R/H start

with Chris
chris skipton 07/Aug/09 Lead
al99 26/Jul/09 Lead O/S

With the direct start. I thought the climb was harder and more serious than "The Hot Line" just around the corner!

martinazando 26/Jul/09 2nd
ollyroberts 14/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Sam, Ben, Jeff n Bex
John Brayshaw 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Took many attempts and suggestions from Erica & Chris to work out the starting move

with Erica
erica 10/Jul/09 2nd

With the easy start

with John
Tony Holdsworth 31/May/09 Lead O/S

Enter stage right - also Martin Haworth

with Richard White
Hidden 17/May/09 2nd O/S
daWalt 02/May/09 2nd O/S

alt start

with Sam
Simon Caldwell 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S

With the easier right hand start

with lithos and Carmen
lithos 25/Apr/09 Lead

from easier RH start, last route and great

with Simon C
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Will Hunt 08/Oct/08 Lead O/S


with Simon Lindsell
bridget143 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S
jadm2 20/Sep/08 TR dog
with Dave
Hidden 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S
tash 27/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Jonny M
jscoles 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Baker
tomB 26/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S
jadm2 08/Jun/08 TR O/S
Adam1973 18/May/08 Lead rpt
with philnorv
jak.kelly 11/May/08 TR O/S
with Lynnette Evans
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead O/S
Chriswallis2 03/May/08 Lead O/S
with Annie
joe larner 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
Scott Anderson ??/2008 -
Hidden 21/Oct/07 Lead β
JLS 10/Oct/07 Lead dnf
with Jacqui
Iggy_B 31/Jul/07 Lead
Hidden 31/Jul/07 2nd rpt
alexyoung 09/Jun/07 Lead O/S

Took the alternative start so probably doesnt count.

with Steak and Sprags
Hidden 26/May/07 -
Monk 05/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/07 Lead RP
andy mcc 07/Apr/07 2nd
with Robin Nicholson
Brown 06/Apr/07 Solo O/S
with Aaran
design crisis 03/Feb/07 Lead
with Tom W
Hidden 03/Feb/07 2nd
spragglerocks ??/2007 2nd O/S

Clean 2nd with alternative start

Mattyk 28/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Mike Vogler
Nick Beckett 09/Sep/06 Lead
with various
ArnaudG 08/Sep/06 2nd
with John M
John Marsland 08/Sep/06 Lead O/S

started from bouldering mat to reach first slot

Martin Haworth ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with val p
bob3141 30/Apr/06 2nd
Epic Ebdon 30/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with James Wasiak
Hidden 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S
spoony84 ?/Feb/06 Lead O/S
alan moore ??/2006 -
shaun walby 04/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Phil West
Phil West 04/Sep/05 2nd O/S
with Shaun Walby
Si dH 20/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Ronan Kavanagh
mike fenwick ?/Jun/05 Solo

back rope solo

Hidden 30/May/05 2nd
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/04 2nd
cem 24/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Liam Mark
Hidden 03/May/04 2nd O/S
spoony84 ??/2004 AltLd O/S
andybirtwistle 27/Oct/03 Lead
lithos 27/Oct/03 2nd
Hidden 12/Oct/03 Lead O/S
andybirtwistle 13/Jul/03 Lead
lithos 13/Jul/03 2nd
Smelly Fox 30/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Al reaney
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2003 -
Hidden ??/2003 2nd
Hidden ?/May/02 Lead O/S
Hammy 07/Apr/02 TR
EddieA ??/2002 2nd RP

Hard start, which I ended up failing on and avoiding by traversing in. I was climbing with my 6 and 7 year olds on Dental Slab when two lads did this - thanks to them for offering me the chance to tie in and give it a go.

Hidden 05/Sep/99 Lead
chris sm 22/Jul/99 Lead O/S
with Jon Stevens
Chris Ellis 04/Jul/99 Lead
with Andy Brown
rob.grafton 16/Aug/97 2nd
with Bruce
goi.ashmore 14/Sep/96 Solo O/S
Martin Bennett 12/Jun/96 -
with MT
leathers 21/May/95 Lead O/S
with Charlotte Evans
barney@helmshore 08/Apr/95 TR O/S
with mark b
John Southworth ?/Jul/94 Solo O/S
with Andy MacNae
Rich Kirby 13/Jun/93 Solo
with Phil
Hammy 05/Jun/93 Solo
with Pete Robinson
Dave Turnbull 16/May/92 Lead
with Jane Turnbull
Tom V 29/Jun/91 -
Dave Musgrove 11/May/91 Solo
with David
Hidden 12/Aug/90 2nd
rob.grafton 15/Jul/90 Lead
with Bruce
Paul Clarke ??/1989 Solo
Dave Musgrove 11/Apr/88 Lead

Tough Start!

with David
Hammy 10/Jul/87 Solo
Hidden 19/Jun/77 Lead O/S
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 20
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set