130m, 3 pitches.
A varied route up the most interesting features of the tower between Towers 4 and 5 (Tower 4 3/4)
1. 45m 5a. From the lowest point of the initial slab, climb up the centre, tackling the headwall by the well protected finger crack on the right, stepping left at the top. Belay back and right near the wide curving crack.
2. 35m 5a. Climb the crack (crux,) and its continuation, stepping left to exit at the chockstone. Belay on a large ledge to the left of a spiky bush.
3. 50m 5a. From the belay head up and right to a black streaked wall, stepping left over a bulge just before the wall. Climb the black streak following the right fork steeply on good holds. Belay on top of the tower next to a tree.
Descent from Tower 4 3/4 as for Tower 4 or 5.
1. 45m 5a. From the lowest point of the initial slab, climb up the centre, tackling the headwall by the well protected finger crack on the right, stepping left at the top. Belay back and right near the wide curving crack.
2. 35m 5a. Climb the crack (crux,) and its continuation, stepping left to exit at the chockstone. Belay on a large ledge to the left of a spiky bush.
3. 50m 5a. From the belay head up and right to a black streaked wall, stepping left over a bulge just before the wall. Climb the black streak following the right fork steeply on good holds. Belay on top of the tower next to a tree.
Descent from Tower 4 3/4 as for Tower 4 or 5.
Jonnie Williams and Carol Goodall (A.L.) 11/Nov/2013.
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Route of Interest
The Lion King
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(The White Dome)