Rockfax Description
A good, wide, traditional crack, for good, wide, traditional climbers! Start at the fallen block.
1) 4a, 10m. Follow the short, strenuous crack to belay at a chockstone.
2) 4c, 25m. Follow the steep crack above to gain a rest at 10m. Continue straight up the slightly relenting fissure to reach The Black Gates.
3) 40m. Follow pitches 4 and 5 of The Black Gates. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, CUMC First Ascents, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 20 Sep, 2019 AltLd O/S
Theeni 30 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
with jrccrosby, John McEvoy
with jrccrosby, John McEvoy
jrccrosby 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Old John, Theeni
with Old John, Theeni
Brian Robinson 18 Apr, 2017 TR
with Jez Brown
with Jez Brown
Butty 16 Aug, 2016 2nd
Hidden 6 Aug, 2016 -
breadmonsterphil 18 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P1 (inelegantly) and P4 (doing best to avoid soggy bits and loose boulders)... then descended via Crib Goch. Fun and varied day
with Peri, rd20
Led P1 (inelegantly) and P4 (doing best to avoid soggy bits and loose boulders)... then descended via Crib Goch. Fun and varied day
with Peri, rd20
rd20 18 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S RD P3, then up the ridge to Horseshoe, and descent over Crib Goch. A great day out
with Peri, Philip Bateman
RD P3, then up the ridge to Horseshoe, and descent over Crib Goch. A great day out
with Peri, Philip Bateman
Sardien 30 May, 2016 AltLd O/S There is an abrope at the top of the main pitch in place but it needs a maillon.
with Helena Robinson
There is an abrope at the top of the main pitch in place but it needs a maillon.
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 29 May, 2016 AltLd
Ralfy 29 May, 2016 AltLd dnf Took alternate route, needed two big cams. On the abseil looked more doable but a 15ft run out without a big cam. On hindsight I should of got it done, on absail I felt better about my decision. Started the route looking to do a nice mountain VS :(
Took alternate route, needed two big cams. On the abseil looked more doable but a 15ft run out without a big cam. On hindsight I should of got it done, on absail I felt better about my decision. Started the route looking to do a nice mountain VS :(
PAJames ??, 2016 -
Jenny Hall 11 Aug, 2015 2nd dnf
with Louis
with Louis
GermanAlex 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 1 and 2 as one. Bit of a sandbag, hard moves and little gear. Surprisingly the wide crack yields not to groveling, but technical bridging and jamming. Done after Main Wall due to congestion on the easier routes. First ascent 1927? Top effort!
Lead pitch 1 and 2 as one. Bit of a sandbag, hard moves and little gear. Surprisingly the wide crack yields not to groveling, but technical bridging and jamming. Done after Main Wall due to congestion on the easier routes. First ascent 1927? Top effort!
caradoc 18 May, 2014 AltLd Always wondered about this one, in the end it was less of a thrutch than I expected. Small crimps and bridges avoided being stuck in the crack but the gear was limited and it is certainly a tough VS. The scramble up to the ridge was loose and longer than described in the guidebook. View...http://youtu.be/4I_vuqHySLg
with Matt H.
Always wondered about this one, in the end it was less of a thrutch than I expected. Small crimps and bridges avoided being stuck in the crack but the gear was limited and it is certainly a tough VS. The scramble up to the ridge was loose and longer than described in the guidebook. View...http://youtu.be/4I_vuqHySLg
with Matt H.
cbeard 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead P1 + 2 linked, with very limited big gear. A good, old fashioned thrutchy fight from the 1920s!
Lead P1 + 2 linked, with very limited big gear. A good, old fashioned thrutchy fight from the 1920s!
Dan Hale 31 May, 2013 Lead O/S traumatic - full of slime and none of my gear fit when needed. Credit to the first ascentionist! *TOP TIP* Bring scissors/knife, the chockstone belay is full of decades old tat and you can't get a sling through it-removing the old stuff would be a big help to everyone!
with Steve Keys
traumatic - full of slime and none of my gear fit when needed. Credit to the first ascentionist! *TOP TIP* Bring scissors/knife, the chockstone belay is full of decades old tat and you can't get a sling through it-removing the old stuff would be a big help to everyone!
with Steve Keys
Hidden ??, 2012 -
pryan300 14 Jul, 2011 AltLd dog Take boots and climbing shoes and two big cams
with T-Bone
Take boots and climbing shoes and two big cams
with T-Bone
demarcation86 14 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Linked up with Crib Goch and Snowdon summits. Good day out. Route hard for VS.
Linked up with Crib Goch and Snowdon summits. Good day out. Route hard for VS.
Hidden ?Jun, 2011 AltLd
david morse 22 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S SANDBAG. Bring some big kit (#4 cam). More like E1 5a
with lole
SANDBAG. Bring some big kit (#4 cam). More like E1 5a
with lole
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rob84 30 May, 2009 AltLd O/S By far the hardest VS I've ever done and I usually really like cracks! I've done easier E1's!
with Chris James
By far the hardest VS I've ever done and I usually really like cracks! I've done easier E1's!
with Chris James
thompson1000 22 Sep, 2008 AltLd
SaraKaikk 20 Sep, 2008 2nd
tumbling wizard ?Jun, 2008 -
Sean Kelly ??, 2008 -
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead
simon geering 28 Aug, 2007 TR dog PYB Touching Stone.
PYB Touching Stone.
Hidden 21 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
Tom Vivian 17 Jun, 2006 AltLd Need big boots!
Need big boots!
Rob Davies ??, 1995 AltLd
ferret newman 1 Jul, 1992 2nd
with The Blacks Camping Crew (Reading) , 1989-1991
with The Blacks Camping Crew (Reading) , 1989-1991
nigehughes ?Aug, 1988 Lead
with Steve Law
with Steve Law
babymoac 5 Jul, 1987 AltLd
with Chris B
with Chris B
Hidden 24 May, 1987 AltLd
mikej 27 Jun, 1979 Lead
with Tony Waite
with Tony Waite
Brian Wilderspin ?Jun, 1977 Lead
with Brian Wallis
with Brian Wallis
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 10
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set