Rockfax Description
A good, wide, traditional crack, for good, wide, traditional climbers! Start at the fallen block.
1) 4a, 10m. Follow the short, strenuous crack to belay at a chockstone.
2) 4c, 25m. Follow the steep crack above to gain a rest at 10m. Continue straight up the slightly relenting fissure to reach The Black Gates.
3) 40m. Follow pitches 4 and 5 of The Black Gates. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, CUMC First Ascents, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

Brian Robinson 18/Apr TR
with Jez Brown
guy757 06/Aug/16 -
breadmonsterphil 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1 (inelegantly) and P4 (doing best to avoid soggy bits and loose boulders)... then descended via Crib Goch. Fun and varied day

with Peri, rd20
rd20 18/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

RD P3, then up the ridge to Horseshoe, and descent over Crib Goch. A great day out

with Peri, Philip Bateman
Sardien 30/May/16 AltLd O/S

There is an abrope at the top of the main pitch in place but it needs a maillon.

with Helena Robinson
Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd
Hidden 29/May/16 AltLd dnf
PAJames ??/2016 -
Jenny Hall 11/Aug/15 2nd dnf
with Louis
GermanAlex 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 and 2 as one. Bit of a sandbag, hard moves and little gear. Surprisingly the wide crack yields not to groveling, but technical bridging and jamming. Done after Main Wall due to congestion on the easier routes. First ascent 1927? Top effort!

caradoc 18/May/14 AltLd

Always wondered about this one, in the end it was less of a thrutch than I expected. Small crimps and bridges avoided being stuck in the crack but the gear was limited and it is certainly a tough VS. The scramble up to the ridge was loose and longer than described in the guidebook. View...

with Matt H.
cbeard 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 + 2 linked, with very limited big gear. A good, old fashioned thrutchy fight from the 1920s!

Dan724 31/May/13 Lead O/S

traumatic - full of slime and none of my gear fit when needed. Credit to the first ascentionist! *TOP TIP* Bring scissors/knife, the chockstone belay is full of decades old tat and you can't get a sling through it-removing the old stuff would be a big help to everyone!

with Steve Keys
Hidden ??/2012 -
pryan300 14/Jul/11 AltLd dog

Take boots and climbing shoes and two big cams

with T-Bone
demarcation86 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Linked up with Crib Goch and Snowdon summits. Good day out. Route hard for VS.

with Paul
Hidden ?/Jun/11 AltLd
david morse 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

SANDBAG. Bring some big kit (#4 cam). More like E1 5a

with lole
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
thompson1000 22/Sep/08 AltLd
SaraKaikk 20/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Jun/08 -
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
simon geering 28/Aug/07 TR dog

PYB Touching Stone.

Hidden 21/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Tom Vivian 17/Jun/06 AltLd

Need big boots!

Rob Davies ??/1995 AltLd
ferret newman 01/Jul/92 2nd
with The Blacks Camping Crew (Reading) , 1989-1991
nigehughes ?/Aug/88 Lead
with Steve Law
babymoac 05/Jul/87 AltLd
with Chris B
Hidden 24/May/87 AltLd
mikej 27/Jun/79 Lead
with Tony Waite
Brian Wilderspin ?/Jun/77 Lead
with Brian Wallis
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