Restricted Access
There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
A route that avoids the slab as much as possible. Start below the left edge of the Gideon Slab.
1) 5a, 12m. Ascend the boulder-choked groove and exit onto a ledge with a flake belay.
2) 5a, 20m. Gain the perched block, and wonder at how it remains in place. Pad directly up the slab to a rusty cable and belay on this.
3) 5a, 33m. Skirt the edge of the slab until you can finish up a more solid slab. © Rockfax
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries
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The Bogeyman
Grade: E2 5a ***
(Y Caban)