Rockfax Description
Another excellent outing on this amazing wall. Start below a crescent-shaped ledge.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb up to the crescent-shaped ledge then move right along this to a blunt rib. Head round this to gain some flakes that take you further right. A few steep and awkward moves lead up onto a ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 17m. Move up the diagonal groove and follow it onto the slab above and continue to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ingle Routes, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
lanky 14 Jul Lead Good route, there is no middle delay shown in the rockfax though.
with Del
Good route, there is no middle delay shown in the rockfax though.
with Del
pete johnson 28 Jun Lead rpt
tim whitaker 28 Jun 2nd
jacob shieldhouse hadley 27 Jun 2nd O/S
with mike melter
with mike melter
Hidden 12 May Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Dan Hale 25 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Terry Cruise 25 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
Climbingspike ??, 2018 -
Steve Long ??, 2018 Lead O/S I think the correct start is the short wall at the far left end of the crescent ledge - all other starts are E3/4.
I think the correct start is the short wall at the far left end of the crescent ledge - all other starts are E3/4.
Keith Sharples 16 Jun, 2017 2nd Bold - if steady - to get to gear. PR well past it's best. Blind moves past this.
Bold - if steady - to get to gear. PR well past it's best. Blind moves past this.
ferdia 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with Tony Stone
with Tony Stone
Si 8 Apr, 2017 2nd I didn't think too bad. Steady climbing, okay gear
with Stu
I didn't think too bad. Steady climbing, okay gear
with Stu
Daz Devey 9 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S Some thin moves on the top slab above poor gear!
with Ed, Phil Davidson
Some thin moves on the top slab above poor gear!
with Ed, Phil Davidson
Phil Davidson 9 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S May as well of soloed this, had done it years ago but the lack of gear is something else, and don't be fooled with the mis information in Rock fax, there is NO belay, nothing, so its one pitch.
with Edward Crossland, Daz Devey
May as well of soloed this, had done it years ago but the lack of gear is something else, and don't be fooled with the mis information in Rock fax, there is NO belay, nothing, so its one pitch.
with Edward Crossland, Daz Devey
Hidden 10 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
stuart34 10 Sep, 2014 2nd
with Niels de german
with Niels de german
Andy Peak 1 6 Sep, 2014 Lead Love the crux two finger pinch, going up to a blind hold.
with Andrew Deckon
Love the crux two finger pinch, going up to a blind hold.
with Andrew Deckon
LucaC 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Lots of chalk and ticked holds detracted somewhat from the adventure, but excellent climbing none the less. Done in one 5big pitch.
Lots of chalk and ticked holds detracted somewhat from the adventure, but excellent climbing none the less. Done in one 5big pitch.
theocelano 26 Jul, 2014 2nd
with LucaC
with LucaC
Rich Kirby 25 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Joe B
with Joe B
wert 23 Jul, 2014 2nd
with Tony Penning
with Tony Penning
Hidden 30 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
steveboote 30 Jun, 2014 2nd
with Vun Lim
with Vun Lim
ksjs 15 Jun, 2014 Lead dnf Ran out of draws for top part. Not sure the comments re line are justified: it seemed reasonably obvious i.e. negotiate flakes, a few pulls and your stood at the bottom of a slabby section, aim for the left facing corner / groove at the RHS of the slab. Glad I escaped right here though as I found this top part tough on second when Rob mistakenly finished up it as the end to Last Rites (this was no way 5b, 5c for sure [smearing and swapping feet very delicately] or maybe it's a weakness of mine?) Anyway, good climbing and very worthwhile. Gear does need some effort and it is quite spaced.
with rob
Ran out of draws for top part. Not sure the comments re line are justified: it seemed reasonably obvious i.e. negotiate flakes, a few pulls and your stood at the bottom of a slabby section, aim for the left facing corner / groove at the RHS of the slab. Glad I escaped right here though as I found this top part tough on second when Rob mistakenly finished up it as the end to Last Rites (this was no way 5b, 5c for sure [smearing and swapping feet very delicately] or maybe it's a weakness of mine?) Anyway, good climbing and very worthwhile. Gear does need some effort and it is quite spaced.
with rob
Rob Pitt 15 Jun, 2014 2nd
with ksjs
with ksjs
Allanfairfechan ??, 2014 2nd
with Dave Woodcock
with Dave Woodcock
Frank the Husky ??, 2014 -
wi11 2 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Short lived route, glad I'm not the only one who thought that the second part wasn't great or obvious
Short lived route, glad I'm not the only one who thought that the second part wasn't great or obvious
HIGHTOWER 2 Aug, 2013 2nd
with Will ??, Tom Ripley
with Will ??, Tom Ripley
Hidden 22 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
AlexD 19 Jul, 2013 2nd
dan gibson 18 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with sam read
with sam read
Stone Muppet 11 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led easy pitch.
with AJM
Led easy pitch.
with AJM
AJM 11 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Consolation for backing off Capital Punishment. Cool rock features, easy climbing.
Consolation for backing off Capital Punishment. Cool rock features, easy climbing.
Hidden 9 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
ellis 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Alan Willoner
with Alan Willoner
alasdair19 ?Jul, 2013 Lead my lead, held it together for the run out just
my lead, held it together for the run out just
Hidden 19 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 12 May, 2012 2nd O/S
will_benfold 12 May, 2012 Lead O/S Did instead of Route 1, which was wet. First E2.
with Caroline Culwick
Did instead of Route 1, which was wet. First E2.
with Caroline Culwick
willoates 29 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Guy
with Guy
robinsi197 30 Jul, 2011 2nd
with Nick
with Nick
chriscarroll 25 Jul, 2011 Lead dog Couldnt work out where to go on the slabs after the flakes and took a bit of a whipper in the blank grove on a shite rock 1 and rp! Hard start too
Couldnt work out where to go on the slabs after the flakes and took a bit of a whipper in the blank grove on a shite rock 1 and rp! Hard start too
benchwarmer 14 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Konrad
with Konrad
owain86 2 Jul, 2011 Lead β Led on Alex's gear
Led on Alex's gear
Alex Mason 2 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Nice climbing on big holds in the middle but afterwards the route loses its way and has an empty feel.
with owain86
Nice climbing on big holds in the middle but afterwards the route loses its way and has an empty feel.
with owain86
Hidden 29 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 29 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Got rather pissed off and frustrated with where I was supposed to be going after the flake line. It was ok up to there, except the E4 start that I accidently found myself trying to do and had to rapidly exit from. Dissapointing route overall, the other one is tons better
Got rather pissed off and frustrated with where I was supposed to be going after the flake line. It was ok up to there, except the E4 start that I accidently found myself trying to do and had to rapidly exit from. Dissapointing route overall, the other one is tons better
Rory Shaw 22 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
zukator 11 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S Steeper since I led it in the 60's.
with Owain
Steeper since I led it in the 60's.
with Owain
Owain Llewelyn 10 Apr, 2011 Lead Great climbing, worth a couple of stars at least.
with Dad
Great climbing, worth a couple of stars at least.
with Dad
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden 3 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
Wil Treasure 3 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
david morse 24 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
with burdekin
with burdekin
mynyddresident 19 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Start the tech crux, found no gear until niche. A psychological route.
with mark
Start the tech crux, found no gear until niche. A psychological route.
with mark
Hidden 17 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 May, 2010 2nd O/S
JulesV 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
Duncan Campbell 17 May, 2010 Lead O/S Hard start for the short (5ft 6) more like 5c above dodge landing, (since doing Capital Punishment with the Ogwen guide, I realise I started up Penal Servitude, Ooops!) then steady 5b to the top but run-out, difficult route finding above jugs. Skyhook helpful,one of the best trad experiances I've ever had!!!
Hard start for the short (5ft 6) more like 5c above dodge landing, (since doing Capital Punishment with the Ogwen guide, I realise I started up Penal Servitude, Ooops!) then steady 5b to the top but run-out, difficult route finding above jugs. Skyhook helpful,one of the best trad experiances I've ever had!!!
Mike Goldthorp 23 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Sam Jones
with Sam Jones
Hidden ??, 2010 -
harvie 16 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
frost 24 Jun, 2009 2nd
with D Almond
with D Almond
Dave Almond 24 Jun, 2009 Lead
with frost
with frost
Adam Booth 25 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 25 May, 2009 2nd O/S As hard as route 1 and perhaps safer or as safe really. good climbs. great wall.
As hard as route 1 and perhaps safer or as safe really. good climbs. great wall.
Hidden ?May, 2009 2nd
mattyork2 21 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Henry Fairhurst and John Vincent
with Henry Fairhurst and John Vincent
IOAN D 21 May, 2008 Solo O/S katy at bottom
katy at bottom
Matt Vigg ??, 2008 -
AngelaC 6 Jun, 2006 2nd
with Rob
with Rob
Chad123 ??, 2005 Lead O/S
with Ben
with Ben
steveb2006 28 Aug, 2004 Lead
with Pete Carter
with Pete Carter
Hidden 14 Sep, 2003 AltLd
paul m hadley ??, 2002 Lead
Hidden ??, 2002 Lead O/S
Ched 24 May, 2001 Lead O/S I recall this being quite serious.
with Ifan
I recall this being quite serious.
with Ifan
duncan 12 May, 2001 Lead O/S
pete johnson 25 Jun, 1995 2nd
with Steve Findlay
with Steve Findlay
D Tempest 14 Jul, 1994 2nd
with Rick
with Rick
Hidden 17 Aug, 1993 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead O/S
Andy Say 12 Jun, 1992 Lead O/S
michael burrows 10 Sep, 1989 AltLd O/S led 1st pitch
with brian jones
led 1st pitch
with brian jones
wynaptomos ?Jul, 1989 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 11 Jun, 1989 Lead O/S Much easier on the mind the Route 1.
Much easier on the mind the Route 1.
uphillnow 11 Jun, 1989 2nd
with charlie french, John Robinson
with charlie french, John Robinson
nigehughes ?Sep, 1984 2nd
with Malcolm Boater
with Malcolm Boater
steveboote ??, 1983 Lead O/S Seem to remember a more direct finish at 5b/c
with Al Scott
Seem to remember a more direct finish at 5b/c
with Al Scott
Neil McA 29 May, 1982 Lead O/S
with Steve Andrews
with Steve Andrews
Nic Robinson 1 Feb, 1981 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1980 -
clanger ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Nic Robinson ??, 1980 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??, 1980 Lead O/S
with Mike Wright
with Mike Wright
Hidden 1 Jul, 1979 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?May, 1979 Lead
with Alan Walmsley
with Alan Walmsley
Steve Lewis 22 Aug, 1976 Lead O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
mikej 31 Aug, 1969 2nd
with Bill Church
with Bill Church
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 21
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set