Rockfax Description
Another excellent outing on this amazing wall. Start below a crescent-shaped ledge.
1) 5b, 28m. Climb up to the crescent-shaped ledge then move right along this to a blunt rib. Head round this to gain some flakes that take you further right. A few steep and awkward moves lead up onto a ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 17m. Move up the diagonal groove and follow it onto the slab above and continue to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Ingle Routes.

Hidden 16/Jun/17 2nd
ferdia 07/May/17 Lead O/S
with Tony Stone
Si 08/Apr/17 2nd

I didn't think too bad. Steady climbing, okay gear

with Stu
Daz8477 09/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Some thin moves on the top slab above poor gear!

with Ed, Phil Davidson
Phil Davidson 09/Jun/16 Lead O/S

May as well of soloed this, had done it years ago but the lack of gear is something else, and don't be fooled with the mis information in Rock fax, there is NO belay, nothing, so its one pitch.

with Edward Crossland, Daz Devey
Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S
stuart34 10/Sep/14 2nd
with Niels de german
Andy Peak 1 06/Sep/14 Lead

Love the crux two finger pinch, going up to a blind hold.

with Andrew Deckon
LJC 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Lots of chalk and ticked holds detracted somewhat from the adventure, but excellent climbing none the less. Done in one 5big pitch.

with Theo
theocelano 26/Jul/14 2nd
with luca
Rich Kirby 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Joe B
Hidden 23/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ksjs 15/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Ran out of draws for top part. Not sure the comments re line are justified: it seemed reasonably obvious i.e. negotiate flakes, a few pulls and your stood at the bottom of a slabby section, aim for the left facing corner / groove at the RHS of the slab. Glad I escaped right here though as I found this top part tough on second when Rob mistakenly finished up it as the end to Last Rites (this was no way 5b, 5c for sure [smearing and swapping feet very delicately] or maybe it's a weakness of mine?) Anyway, good climbing and very worthwhile. Gear does need some effort and it is quite spaced.

with rob
Rob Pitt 15/Jun/14 2nd
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 2nd
with Dave Woodcock
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
wi11 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Short lived route, glad I'm not the only one who thought that the second part wasn't great or obvious

HIGHTOWER 02/Aug/13 2nd
with Will ??, Tom Ripley
Hidden 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
AlexD 19/Jul/13 2nd
dan gibson 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with sam read
Stone Muppet 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led easy pitch.

with am
AJM 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Consolation for backing off Capital Punishment. Cool rock features, easy climbing.

Hidden 09/Jul/13 2nd O/S
ellis 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Alan Willoner
alasdair19 ?/Jul/13 Lead

my lead, held it together for the run out just

Hidden 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd O/S
will_benfold 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Did instead of Route 1, which was wet. First E2.

with Caroline Culwick
willoates 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Guy
robinsi197 30/Jul/11 2nd
with Nick
chriscarroll 25/Jul/11 Lead dog

Couldnt work out where to go on the slabs after the flakes and took a bit of a whipper in the blank grove on a shite rock 1 and rp! Hard start too

benchwarmer 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Konrad
owain86 02/Jul/11 Lead β

Led on Alex's gear

Alex Mason 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Nice climbing on big holds in the middle but afterwards the route loses its way and has an empty feel.

Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Got rather pissed off and frustrated with where I was supposed to be going after the flake line. It was ok up to there, except the E4 start that I accidently found myself trying to do and had to rapidly exit from. Dissapointing route overall, the other one is tons better

Rory Shaw 22/Apr/11 Lead O/S
zukator 11/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Steeper since I led it in the 60's.

with Owain
Owain Llewelyn 10/Apr/11 Lead

Great climbing, worth a couple of stars at least.

with Dad
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden 03/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Wil Treasure 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
david morse 24/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with burdekin
mynyddresident 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Start the tech crux, found no gear until niche. A psychological route.

with mark
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Shauna 23/May/10 2nd O/S
with Jules
JulesV 22/May/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Duncan Campbell 17/May/10 Lead O/S

Hard start for the short (5ft 6) more like 5c above dodge landing, (since doing Capital Punishment with the Ogwen guide, I realise I started up Penal Servitude, Ooops!) then steady 5b to the top but run-out, difficult route finding above jugs. Skyhook helpful,one of the best trad experiances I've ever had!!!

Mike Goldthorp 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Sam Jones
Hidden ??/2010 -
harvie 16/Sep/09 Lead O/S
frost 24/Jun/09 2nd
with D Almond
Dave Almond 24/Jun/09 Lead
Adam Booth 25/May/09 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 25/May/09 2nd O/S

As hard as route 1 and perhaps safer or as safe really. good climbs. great wall.

Hidden ?/May/09 2nd
mattyork2 21/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Henry Fairhurst and John Vincent
IOAN D 21/May/08 Solo O/S

katy at bottom

Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
AngelaC 06/Jun/06 2nd
with Rob
Chad123 ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Ben
Hidden 28/Aug/04 Lead
Hidden 14/Sep/03 AltLd
paul m hadley ??/2002 Lead
Hidden ??/2002 Lead O/S
Ched 24/May/01 Lead O/S

I recall this being quite serious.

with Ifan
duncan 12/May/01 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
pete johnson 25/Jun/95 2nd
with Steve Findlay
D Tempest 14/Jul/94 2nd
with Rick
Hidden 17/Aug/93 AltLd
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
Andy Say 12/Jun/92 Lead O/S
michael burrows 10/Sep/89 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch

with brian jones
wynaptomos ?/Jul/89 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 11/Jun/89 Lead O/S

Much easier on the mind the Route 1.

uphillnow 11/Jun/89 2nd
with charlie french, John Robinson
nigehughes ?/Sep/84 2nd
with Malcolm Boater
steveboote ??/1983 Lead O/S

Seem to remember a more direct finish at 5b/c

with Al Scott
Neil McA 29/May/82 Lead O/S
with Steve Andrews
Nic Robinson 01/Feb/81 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Nic Robinson ??/1980 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1980 Lead O/S
with Mike Wright
Hidden 01/Jul/79 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/79 Lead
with Alan Walmsley
Steve Lewis 22/Aug/76 Lead O/S
with sharpie
mikej 31/Aug/69 2nd
with Bill Church
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