Rockfax Description
Start down and right of the large ledges at the top of the Slabs, below a groove right of Lazarus. Climb the groove that splits the buttress and a scoop to a thread. Layback and mantel onto the upper slab and wander up this - easing all the time. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

RangerMcFreindly 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Solid crux. Went up and down 3 times before committing!

bede.west 27/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Belayed 1/4 to 1/3 up the route linking from Subwall Climb, Callan lead crux, finished via a Mod pitch above towards Glyder Fawr cliff. Part of Idawl to Glyder Fawr summit link. Subwall Climb into Javelin Buttress up to Central Arête on Glyder Fawr cliff. 7 pitches (11 guide book), 400 m of climbing 700 m of ascent, 4 miles, approx. 12hr car to car. Aiming to squeeze Tryfan into the same time next time.

with Callan
jameslomax 13/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Holly
suds_01 13/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with Billy
Hidden 18/Jul/17 Lead O/S
asham77 18/Jul/17 2nd
babymoac 09/Jul/17 Lead
with nclarey, gavin buttimore
Hidden 09/Jul/17 2nd
nclarey 09/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Another great climb ably led by Andy - have to admit that the initial mantle did fox me initially but got there in the end.

with Gavin Buttimore, Andy
Hidden 09/Jul/17 2nd
Mark Reeves 20/Jun/17 2nd

Working coaching a client as they led it.

John Foster 20/Jun/17 Lead
Hidden 26/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/17 Lead
Hidden ??/2017 -
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
cdpuk 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S
gavster 14/Aug/16 Lead
with rob
Rob Royle 14/Aug/16 2nd
with Gav
Hidden 31/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
bob johnson 17/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with Des Barnett, Rich Ball
Jdoc 21/Jun/16 Solo
Richard Kinsman 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Melinda Kinsman
RachelP 03/Jun/16 2nd
Isabelle Booker 30/May/16 2nd O/S

Great pitch. Top felt harder but apparently it is more like VS if you go slightly left after the thread runner

Harry Ellis 27/May/16 Lead

Superb straight up the crack may be 5a

with Rich Hazelby
Dazluke2000 20/Apr/16 2nd
Tim Sparrow ??/2016 -
ianstevens 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Emily Marsh
Hidden 17/Sep/15 2nd
Helen Boothman 16/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Martin A
martinlevya82 16/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Tried javelin blade fell off a few times. Part of a mountain day including tennis shoes and great,continuation crack and tennis shoe.

JonnyJT 15/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Excellent route with some lovely layback finger crack above the initial difficulties in the corner groove.

with John Crook
jack 9895 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
alaster tonge 08/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Very annoyed, set up the mantelshelf three times and didn't dare. And it was one of the best protected climbs in the world. Down-climbing back to the start was good sport though.

with Assad Lahlou
stevemace85 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Ian Stirrups 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

I've done plenty of easier HVS's

with Sue
Louvet 30/Jun/15 -
with Tarquin
Tarquin 30/Jun/15 -
with Louise
Hidden 19/Jun/15 Lead
Dave192939 23/May/15 Lead O/S
with Simon Allan
stratandrew 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Superb line, great climbing on impeccable rock.

with Bron Edwards
clairejane ?/May/15 Lead O/S


with Miss Jen Randall
GermanAlex 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Final climb of the day after Pinnacle Rib, then over to Gribin Facet, and finally up Idwal slabs. Great mountain day!

with Arno
kivell 18/Apr/15 -
with P BAKER
Andrew will wilson ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 10/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
suds_01 13/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Katie smith, Colin crockart
Andrew will wilson 27/Jul/14 Lead

Best route ever

Rob Rocket 26/Jul/14 2nd
AndrewP 22/Jul/14 2nd

On MIA training

fizzychewitt 20/Jul/14 Lead

Great rock and lovely moves, quite technical crux section

with Martin
lcullum7 11/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Ray Sparks 11/Jul/14 Lead
with pero
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
origamib 08/Jul/14 2nd O/S
sgl 21/Jun/14 Lead
with Susie
luke glaister 16/May/14 2nd rpt

Wanted to lead it but I could see my mate was keen to have it. Brilliant route and I still think 3***s well in kc. Very nice lead.

casey johns 16/May/14 Lead O/S

Great route. Up there with the best I've done 3*

sheelba 03/May/14 Lead
kabutsu 19/Apr/14 -
RachelP 18/Apr/14 2nd
JRJones 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Seriously sketchy gear.

with Rob Law
Hidden 04/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
ADConway 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Fantastic finish to a good days climbing!

Hidden ??/2014 2nd
Hidden ??/2014 -
Si ??/2014 -
SamHallam ??/2014 Lead
Alfie Conn ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Max19 ?/Oct/13 2nd
with Ben Terrell, Felix Terrell
m675bowsl 27/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
rich432 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S

mia mock student

Hidden 27/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S
luke glaister 25/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Great climbing on great rock. Very good gear and I nice crux sequence with gear below u and great gear above. ***s

BradleyWhite 10/Aug/13 2nd
morgan91 10/Aug/13 Lead
bob johnson 07/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Rich Ball
Hidden 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/13 Lead
Zoomer 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Superb route, deserves 3 stars, well protected and technical.

Hidden 26/Jul/13 Lead
anthonydouglas 26/Jul/13 2nd
Leonhamnett 19/Jul/13 AltLd
with Andy Allen
Helen Gibson 14/Jul/13 Lead
Helen Gibson 14/Jul/13 Lead
with Max
Fred_Richard 14/Jul/13 Lead
with Pete
NickJH 07/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with LiamG
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
robbraby ?/Jul/13 2nd

really good route climbed direct up the thin crack definitely 5a this way.

with Steveo
CurlyStevo ?/Jul/13 Lead

This is a 3 star pitch IMO, after the v groove we climbed direct up the thin crack (instead of going left to the thread) occasionaly using thin flakes to the side, which was quite commiting, high in the VS grade and worth 5a. The rock and climbing is impecable. Part of a larger enchainment of tennis shoe, Javelin Buttress, Groove Above and Central Arete.

with Rob
Hidden 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
hellsbells 03/Jun/13 -
with stuart holmes
Max19 ?/Jun/13 Lead

attempted blade but came of route onto pretty tough slab too early

judith neaves 19/May/13 2nd
with Loz
gavster2405 06/May/13 2nd
ipegg 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Nice clean climbing, less polished than the main wall

Hidden 06/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
Scott Anderson ??/2013 -
with Dave
Andrew will wilson ??/2013 Lead
tim20 ??/2013 -
tim20 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Sam Melville ??/2013 -
howlingbaboon 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Committing crux!

with Scott
Scott Anderson 08/Sep/12 AltLd
Steve Wakeford 06/Sep/12 2nd
Dom Cordner 06/Sep/12 2nd O/S
bleakned 06/Sep/12 2nd
with Steve
rwm7131 23/Aug/12 Lead
with Broomy
Broom136 23/Aug/12 2nd
SR1970 ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S

Excellent route, 1 star in the new guideboook is rather stingy.

with Carmen
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
George_Surf 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Hard crux move. I enjoyed the technical groove line, didn't think the gear was amazing but there was enough.

with Mike Roberts
lcullum7 29/May/12 Lead O/S
SarahA 29/May/12 2nd
willoates 28/May/12 Solo O/S
kristinawe 28/May/12 2nd
Hidden 28/May/12 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/12 Lead O/S
agolay 15/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Bin Smedley, Heather Vernon
Scott Anderson ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Sam Melville ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
jezb1 14/Oct/11 AltLd

Almost dry! Nice pitch

Glyn Davidson 25/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Dan
Dan77 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Chris Manasseh 15/Sep/11 Lead
Private Flounder 15/Sep/11 2nd
Hidden 13/Sep/11 2nd O/S
ZA 31/Aug/11 AltLd
with smcw
Hidden 15/Aug/11 Lead
lizzyb 15/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Beautiful rock, atmospheric climbing, easy in the grade. Too good to miss. Best climb of the day.

smcw ?/Aug/11 Solo
LukeyG ?/Aug/11 Lead
with C-nunez
benkelsey 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S

good moves, good gear.

Hidden 26/Jul/11 2nd O/S
andysroom 12/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
five 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with AV
Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd
SteveM 02/Jul/11 2nd
with Kat
kitkat78 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S


with SteveM
Martin Bennett 20/Jun/11 -
with Ali
ceaddiso 30/Apr/11 2nd
with Conan
Conan 30/Apr/11 Lead

Too windy for Javalin Blade

with Clare A
shaun walby 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Ian Holtby, Martin Haworth
Hidden 21/Apr/11 -
psychomansam 20/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 20/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
mynyddresident 18/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with callum next door
Chris M Thomas 19/Mar/11 Lead

More difficult than I remembered it.

with Maurisio
Private Flounder ??/2011 2nd

Crux move was great fun! Layback ahoy!

with chris manasseh
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
bsmedz ??/2011 -
nathan foster 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S

bold for vs

PeteH 11/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

In the wet. Crux was sopping. Careful use of dry flakes/crimps out right!

Dizz 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Bold for VS!

Harri777 ?/Aug/10 2nd
with Liz
Hidden 03/Jul/10 2nd O/S
MarekM ?/Jul/10 Lead
asmith37 26/Jun/10 2nd O/S
becksta500 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Alex Smith
RagingPuffin 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Claire
Alistair Corbett 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with john corbett
wilchivs 17/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
cmsg 10/Jun/10 Lead
with Llewelyn Thomas
RCrockford 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Jonah, Andy C
Hidden 22/May/10 2nd O/S
Dux 18/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/10 Lead O/S
bwestwood ??/2010 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/09 2nd
igneouscarl 25/Aug/09 2nd
with Tom Stahl
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 11/Aug/09 2nd
SGD 08/Aug/09 Lead
with Tom WMC
Hidden 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Karlos 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Mark B, Anna LW
cavemancolumbus ?/Aug/09 Lead
with Oli
jubolo 11/Jul/09 2nd O/S

a decent add on to hope. rain stopped and it had dryed out for this

with mark
Dan 85 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Pete, Josh
Little AndyH 13/Jun/09 Lead O/S
donkster 23/May/09 Lead O/S
with DaveNW
Hidden 23/May/09 2nd O/S
dan gibson 20/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd
Hjort 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Serinde Van Wijk
Sardien 05/Apr/09 2nd β
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
MarkFoster ??/2009 -
MikeDowsett ??/2009 2nd

After Tennis Shoe

with John Harrison, Paul Tretheway
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S
Tanya Savage 21/Sep/08 2nd

Climbed as 3 with Annette. Lovely corner, then very steep wall - tricky move, which I did as layback turning into wobbly mantelshelf move

Mark Stevenson 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Neil Pacey 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
net 21/Sep/08 2nd
with Neil & Tanya
edpd1b 14/Sep/08 2nd
Richard Gilbert 14/Sep/08 2nd O/S

Great line, awkward belay stance shared with the top of "Hope"

with Jerry Ostrowski
crag_monster ?/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 30/Aug/08 2nd
Twisty 30/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Excellent- a suprise VS for Jools!

with Rayan & Jools
masa-alpin 15/Aug/08 2nd β
gb83 15/Aug/08 Lead O/S

very nice

with masa
csalvage 02/Aug/08 2nd

Damp and cold, made it feel a hard 4c

with Bryan
Hidden 27/Jul/08 2nd
SamStokes 24/Jul/08 Lead O/S

lovely climbing!

with Ed Webb
webbe01 24/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/08 Lead
Hidden 22/Jul/08 2nd O/S
sgl0jd 07/Jun/08 2nd
with Steve Hobbs
Hidden 07/Jun/08 -
chris sm 06/Jun/08 2nd
with Pippa Froggatt
The Bad Cough ?/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Lee Bonner
peter myers ?/May/08 2nd
with Simon Bennet
Hidden ?/Apr/08 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Marcus ??/2008 -
Matt Vigg ??/2008 Solo
Jamie B ?/Sep/07 Lead
with Jo George and Kat Barisova
Ben Sidsaph 09/Jun/07 Lead

I lead the first pitch

with Andy Beverly
Hidden 05/Jun/07 Lead
paddygoodwin 05/May/07 2nd
with Jason
kleinej 05/May/07 Lead dog
with Patrick
Carly 20/Apr/07 2nd
with Richard
Hidden 20/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Sean Kelly ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Strange little creature 14/Oct/06 2nd
with Scott Cramp
cat22 ?/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 30/May/06 Lead O/S
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Adam Booth 16/Oct/05 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 16/Oct/05 AltLd
Alex Mason ?/Jul/05 Lead

nice tricky route finding found it well hard 4 vs

Ram MkiV ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Alex Mason
John Kettle ??/2005 Lead
Wil Treasure ?/Aug/04 2nd

A great pitch - must come back to lead this. Also contains my favourite ever thread runner.

with Malcolm
GavinB ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
chris wyatt 15/May/04 Lead
with Dave clode
malc 13/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
with ??
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead
Rob Davies 01/Aug/03 Lead rpt

Not a retreat from Javelin Blade - I had given up trying that

with David Kinniburgh
Gman ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hammy 07/Jun/03 AltLd
with Iain Gallagher
Hidden ?/Oct/02 Lead
Ann S ?/Sep/02 2nd
with Bill Harrison
Hidden ?/Aug/02 2nd
caradoc 08/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with MikeW
Ian Archer 01/Jun/02 2nd
with Alan Segar
michael burrows 12/May/02 Lead O/S
with dave meeson
akhughes ?/Apr/02 AltLd
1202alarm ?/Jul/01 -
Mark Davies PK ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Mr Lickerish
Dom Goodwin 26/May/01 2nd
with Rich
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
simonwaters5 ??/2000 2nd

A long time ago

with Bill Pilling
pasbury ??/2000 -
kato'sdad 17/Aug/98 Lead
RobSimmo 17/Aug/98 2nd O/S
kato'sdad 17/Aug/98 Lead
telemark ??/1998 Lead
with Joyce Ambrose
Jamie B ?/Sep/97 2nd
with Ian Smith
big 02/Aug/97 -
Chris Murray 05/Jul/97 Lead
with Richard Bower
Pete Nugent 03/May/97 AltLd
with Simon Harry
BenTiffin 08/Mar/97 2nd
with Andy Bissell
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
Hidden 15/Sep/95 Lead
Hidden 06/Jul/95 Lead
Bullybones ??/1995 -
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
JiveWeasel 17/Jun/94 Lead
with Rich C
kennylind ??/1994 Lead O/S

Really should have went for Javelin Blade.

Tenko 18/Jun/93 AltLd O/S
with Kev Wilson
Rob Davies 01/Jun/93 Lead
Ian Robertson ??/1993 2nd
with Steve Hinde
goi.ashmore 26/Oct/91 Lead O/S
with Ian Hosley
Hidden ?/Jul/91 2nd
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Hidden 27/Mar/89 Lead
Hidden 05/Nov/88 AltLd
Iain Thow 13/May/88 Lead
with Steve Ball
babymoac 01/Aug/87 -
with Rich Reeder
AlanLittle ?/Jul/87 Lead
with Carl Blakeley
Hidden 11/Oct/86 Solo O/S
Mark Kemball 04/Jul/85 Lead
with Chris May
daprince ??/1985 -
nigehughes ?/Aug/84 2nd
with Ian Cameron
Rob Davies 19/Jul/83 Lead
with Angus McLean
Nigel Bond 09/May/82 AltLd
with Rodger Edenborough
Nigel Coe 27/Mar/82 -
with Frank Farrell
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1982 2nd
with Andy Heald
Neil McA 12/Aug/79 2nd O/S
Nigel Coe 28/Oct/78 Lead
with Andy Monument
Hammy 26/Aug/78 AltLd
with Jonathon Stacey
Mark Kemball 29/Apr/78 Lead
Rob Davies 24/Jul/77 Lead
Bolt Phobia 04/Jun/77 2nd
with Steve Astington, Kit Spencer
Brian Wilderspin ?/Jun/77 Lead
with Brian Wallis
Mark Kemball 05/Jun/76 2nd
with Mark Pearce
mikej 07/Sep/75 AltLd
with Mike Byles
Hidden 21/Jun/75 Lead
Hidden 22/Aug/73 AltLd
Bob M ?/Aug/73 Lead
with John Dennis
John Stenhouse ?/Sep/72 AltLd
with John Offord
rogerskews ??/1970 AltLd
with Martin Coward
kjacks ??/1964 2nd

Hard Severe in those days c/w hemp waistline and 100ft No.3 nylon rope, Masters and FEBs - who remembers them? Also minimum gear - maybe we were much better than we thought we were?

with Dave Peers
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 54
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 51
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set