Restricted Access
The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
1) HS 4b, 20m. Start as for Bottomless Buttress. Climb the corner for 5m then traverse rightwards along the easy line until the arête is reached. Climb up to belay on the main break.
2) HS 4b, 8m. Traverse the main break right on jugs (spectacular, but easy) to belay in the next corner (The corner of The Fin).
3) HVS 4b, 50m. Continue along the traverse for 8m to join and finish up the last pitch of Rhino: i.e. climb up the wall to meet rightwards rising underlings. Follow these for about 10m to reach a clean looking corner, which is climbed to the top. All slightly worrying. Belay on bushes.
FA. David Coley, Scott Borden 17/Dec/2013.
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David's Metraverse
Grade: HVS 4a ***
(Cave Hole)