Rockfax Description
A challenging pitch that makes a direct assault on the black bulges. Start as for Limbo beneath the black bulges.
Climb to the ledges beneath the black bulges and locate a series of pockets that breach them on their left side. Difficult climbing and fiddly gear accesses the easier wall above and a horizontal break. Continue direct up a thin crack in a smooth, white wall and then via a small groove that leads to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © Rockfax

A Sharp, S Lewis 26/Oct/1976

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Dale Comley 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Climbing not too hard. The jug rail over the bulge felt pretty loose. Needs to be treated carefully. Lots of good climbing in a big pitch.

will_benfold 23/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Mark Stevenson 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S
blaza1 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 15/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 15/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Agree with previous comments that this is well soft for E4, in fact I'd say E3 5c really. Good climbing, quite pumpy but there are rests every so often above the bulge. I didn't bother to stop and fiddle with gear in the bulge, just placed a few pieces below and blasted on through.

Bristoldave 02/May/15 Lead O/S
with john
John Tanner 02/May/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 04/Feb/15 2nd rpt

The jugs at the end of the sequence through the bulge are very loose.

with Ian Cooper
i_a_coops 04/Feb/15 Lead O/S
with Alex
LucasHarazin 02/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Jess Broadhurst
Pippa 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Soft, but brilliant, really, really good

with RB1
Hidden 18/Sep/14 2nd dog
just one more 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Superb. Steep,perfect gear all the way and pretty easy to place. Very steady for E3

with Max B
davidclare 07/Aug/14 2nd dog
grp 07/Aug/14 Lead

couple of falls but lead it from the ledge once i found an extra pocket.

jon_ridley 07/Aug/14 2nd
Misha 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

The easiest E4 in the world! Fair at middle of the grade E3 and significantly easier than Lyme Cryme that I did a couple of weeks earlier. The climbing is never too hard or too pumpy, with good holds to blast through the bulge and rests every so often above, although interest is certainly maintained. Some great moves and positions make for a very good route. I thought the cams below the bulge were questionable (I got three of them in) but Phil spent 10 minutes getting one of them out so can't have been that hard. The wires is it above the bulge were so-so as well but above that there was decent gear. So E3 is fair for the gear but the climbing is more like a hardish E2. Certainly nowhere near dangerous or hard enough for E4 5c! In the end, almost ran out of extenders. Several cams 0.3 would have been useful.

with Phil
philhilo 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S

Soooo soft for E4. 3 stiff pulls and a sustained 5b 5m section. Gear for crux far from poor - took 10 minutes to get cam out of pocket. Minor departure due to breaking hold at top.

with misha
Alex Winter 25/Sep/13 Lead

Got completely boxed first go trying to fiddle in gear on the crux. Lowered down to the ledge, then led through. Good climbing through the bulge, but the line at the top is a bit vague.

with Andy
Billg 30/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Megan Beaumont
debbie roberts 27/Sep/12 2nd
Marti999 27/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/12 2nd dog
Justin T 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Really nice involving but steady climbing prob E3/4 5c or safe F6c ish?

with Crispin
thomasadixon 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Soft. Just a bit pumpy on the bulge, plenty of gear if you can place it.

with helen
Hidden 14/Sep/11 2nd β
Hidden 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S
richiebongo 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Jon Didymus
ericinbristol 26/Apr/10 2nd β

Great lead by Barry. Superb route.

with Barry Durston
Aaron Lines ??/2010 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Paz 27/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with TE
Hidden 24/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??/2002 -

Date a guess

jonnybee666 18/May/01 Lead O/S

I did this when it was still graded E3 and thought that was pretty fair. It has a shortish goey section where its tempting to try and hang around and fix gear but nothing technical and then its pretty straightforward. Great climbing.

with Colm
Billg 16/Apr/01 Lead O/S
with Paul Tucker
Tim M ??/2000 Lead β
Hidden 16/May/99 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 13/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with tombawimba
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
Hidden 05/Jun/88 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1987 -
andy gittins ??/1984 -
duncan ?/Aug/82 Lead O/S
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
Steve Bell ??/1980 -
Steve Lewis 25/Sep/76 2nd
with sharpie
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