E4 in 1992 guide.

C Waddy, G Percival, J Vlasto 14/Jun/1985

blaza1 21/Aug/16 Lead β

In the rain!

i_a_coops 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Definitely E5 if it's raining hard! The second thread is pretty crap, would be a better route without the threads imo, and maybe a bit more E5.

with Alex
Nick Russell 15/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Did it as one pitch, finishing up the crack of Oblivion. Not sure I can justify calling this my first E5, especially with both threads in situ (there's a good wire next to the second anyway). It felt like E4 6a, but I was climbing well on the day. I actually enjoyed the crux - just a few steep pulls between pockets on the bulge. Staying strictly in the pocketed crack would make it harder but a bit contrived when there's juggy sidepulls within reach on the left ;)

steve_gibbs 15/Oct/15 2nd dnf

I couldn't get anywhere on this route! How Nick seemingly pulled up on a mono whilst on lead is beyond me!

richsmithinbristol 11/May/14 Lead O/S

Climbed in mistake as thought it was GT Special. Did it as one pitch into the top of GT special rather than the second pitch.

shoulders 11/May/14 2nd O/S
Billg 26/May/12 Lead O/S

A really good route. Do it in one pitch finishing direct to the Earl belay station. Found the run out after the crux nervy due to the skinny thread. This would be eliminated if some kind soul added an in situ thread about 8ft above the current one! I didn't have any tat .it would be impossible to place on the lead.

with Susanne Richards
bigdrew 12/Sep/10 2nd dnf

Couldn't do the crux.. Cracking effort from Matt!

Matt Fry 12/Sep/10 Lead β

great route, did it as one pitch. 2 stars! Beta consisted of an abseil from another route.

Paz 22/Aug/07 2nd
with AB
Hidden 22/Aug/07 Lead β
Ally Smith 05/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Paz 05/Jun/06 2nd β

Not pleasant at the crux, but then it's not starred. A fourth route takes in the hard crux of Clan Union! There is a 5a independent finish in the guide, but we went up (My Name Is) Earl of Perth instead.

with AS
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High E6
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High E4
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High 6b
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Style of ascent
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