The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. B.Palmer, J.Jackson 23/Jul/2004.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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archieharris2011 | 14 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Little bit good, little bit shit. | ||
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βeta: Little bit good, little bit shit. |
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Itsagoatlife | 4 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Interesting traverse with very few places for nuts. Might be better if you have a set of small cams. Anyone seconding would need to be able to lead it as you would not want to take a fall seconding on this route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Interesting traverse with very few places for nuts. Might be better if you have a set of small cams. Anyone seconding would need to be able to lead it as you would not want to take a fall seconding on this route. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Fairy Cave Quarry)