25m. A sought-after lead! Start 3m left of the grassy ramp, just left of a hairline crack. Make hard moves, past microwire placements at 4m, to reach a good hold (slightly offline to the right at 6m is a cam slot: possibly E3 using this, more direct and bolder without). Climb up and then leftwards over a tiny overlap to good cracks (on Caveman); then step left again to finish up another blank area of the slab.
The original line, more suited to a solo ascent, went up right from the overlap and finished as for Slight of Hand (12.6.02 M J Crocker).

R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 27/Jun/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

ssutton 15/Jul TR

Took a couple of slips but it was raining a little bit

martin one 15/Jul TR dog
with ssutton
ricci.andrea86 18/Jun -
Dugster 03/Jun TR
with Pete randal, Chris
Hidden 19/Apr TR
Hidden 19/Apr TR
wurzelinzummerset 16/Apr TR rpt
with Nick
Matt Smith 10/Apr TR O/S

Stuck a top rope on this with the intention of leading after, but not on your nelly! Going to have to have gonads the size of planets! The moves were doable, but trying to place the gear would be tough and the consequences of falling off too high for me.

Bristoldave 24/Mar Lead β

Preplaced the micros and had a mat. (And used the cam obviously!)

Cheese Monkey 23/Mar 2nd O/S
with Dave
Paul Baller 29/Aug/16 Lead RP
with matt stevens
WilliamRupp 20/Jul/16 Lead
jsmcfarland 20/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Led after Will fell on his lead attempt (the RP's held, holy shit!). Felt way easier than last time. Mixed feelings about the cam slot, kind of seems a little off-route.

ngreen 03/Jul/16 2nd RP
Felix Ottey 05/Jun/16 2nd rpt
cdpuk 08/May/16 TR RP

Worked some moves first go. Placed gear and clean ascent 2nd go. Will try a lead next visit maybe.

RobScarisbrick 08/May/16 TR
with cdpuk
Gibbo 17/Apr/16 TR
with James Thompson, Ed Wright
Dan0Me 22/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with James S, Mel
James S 22/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Not quite as bold as I'd expected but still quite exciting! It's almost a shame that it has to cross the big crack as otherwise it would give an excellent sustained pitch! (Though I was definitely glad to grab it when it came!!)

with melty, dan
Phil Anderson ??/2016 2nd dog
Neil Rigiani 18/Oct/15 TR dnf
with James Hill-Reid, Dave Coley
Hidden 18/Oct/15 TR O/S
jsmcfarland 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Sustained, scary and brilliant. Missed seeing the cam slot on the right somehow so the only protection until the break was the solitary RP. Worst bit of the route was making myself not just launch myself at the break once it got close enough and stay focused. Once there I put in 3 cams before committing to the top section! This route is very serious, be warned.

Hidden 09/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead β
felixizzy 18/Jun/15 TR rpt
with shunt
felixizzy 12/Apr/15 TR O/S

Amazing how little you can actualy stand on. May come back for a lead on this one.

with shunt
Felix Ottey 05/Apr/15 TR O/S
pablosordo ??/2015 Lead O/S
Matt Amos 12/Sep/14 Lead RP

Lost my footing just above the cluster of micros and two of them held. Got up the rest of it, and found it all pretty hard and very little gear. One of the only routes that has made me want to double up on some imps! The move off the floor is very hard indeed

abtibbs 07/Sep/14 TR dog
with Jamie Roberts
zcsharp 07/Sep/14 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Aug/14 TR O/S
Steve Woollard 20/Aug/14 TR
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd β
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd β
MoWalker3 06/Jul/14 TR O/S
with shunt
bpmclimb 22/Jun/14 TR rpt
with Shunt
winter hill1 02/Jun/14 TR
wurzelinzummerset 01/Jun/14 TR dog
with Ric
wurzelinzummerset 19/Apr/14 TR dog

Had a slip off the crux, but got back on and finished.

with Nick
bpmclimb 18/Apr/14 TR rpt
with Shunt
petegunn 28/Jul/13 Lead

Some good slab action, couple of micros at the start then nothing untill the crossover with Caveman (didn't use the cam slot, seems abit off line) a good upper section to finish and managed to dodge the showers :)

with Davina
Hidden 28/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Cheese Monkey 15/Jul/13 TR dog

Looks properly bold

with Alan
skippington 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

I reckon that's still E4 with the cam slot. And it's not an eliminate route and the gear can be placed from the line, so...anyway. Great climbing, standing on not very much.

sonic46 05/May/13 TR
Hidden 08/Dec/12 TR
Hidden 19/Sep/12 Lead RP
LukeyG 19/Sep/12 Lead

flashed on tr, put gear in a stuck it on lead

Quarryboy 12/Aug/12 2nd dog

Don't think that this can be E3 but if it is it is very much at the upper end of E3 of which I don't really have any experience of so cant say for definite whether it is that or E4. Anyway managed to onsight all of the moves except for one in the blankest section but after sitting on the rope looking for some kind of small weakness that would make it work I found a small lump which could be used as a foothold but was really unnerving to stand on. Although was able to do all the moves quickly after 3 weeks of no popper climbing and not having my head properly screwed on for anything remotely bold the prospect of doing a 12 meter section of pretty much blank protectionless slab climbing seemed like somewhat of a daunting proposition not to mention the fact that it was starting to get on a bit and there were other routes that we wanted to do. Will definitely return to do it at some point.

Stanners 12/Aug/12 Lead RP

First E4 Headpoint! Me happy. Good Micros low down, but your ****ed if you fall from the precarious upper moves before the break. Fair play to anyone who onsights this. That said, don't think its anything too bad for E4.

Andy Clarke 26/Jul/12 Lead β

Beautifully intense slab moves. Checked out upper slab when seconding Caveman, but crux onsight. Didn't use cam slot. Hard to leave ground - getting slick.

with Johnny
kelliroberts3 15/Jul/12 Lead β
Pete Rigby 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
Mr-Cowdrey 19/Jun/12 Lead β

top roped a few months ago. Went back to lead it and felt alot easier than last time. Very marginal and spaced gear though.

with Gary Slade, Lorcan O'Brien
adam 24 02/Jun/12 2nd β
riddle 02/Jun/12 Lead β

Clean ascent after failing at the first attempt

Hidden 24/May/12 TR dnf
bpmclimb 21/May/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
Rick Ashton 20/May/12 TR

This seemed solid on top rope. Might have to try leading it next time though as you can just slide back to the start if unable to clib the crux

with Robert Drynda
davenev 11/Oct/11 Lead RP

Slid off onto the micros at 4m - very little friction - bold move over the overlap a long way from the gear.

with mick
Gary S 08/Oct/11 TR dnf
Mr-Cowdrey 08/Oct/11 TR
with Gary S
richiebongo 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
jamespilgrim 02/Sep/11 2nd dog

slipped at the microwires at 5m

with Mark
MarkRyder 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with James P
Pete Scott 13/Aug/11 TR O/S

Would be a nice route to get done.

with Jimbo
Aaron Phillips 27/Jul/11 TR O/S

no friction. nearly slid off several times but managed to levitate to the top by unknown means.

with my dad
Hidden 03/Jul/11 TR O/S
riddle 11/Jun/11 Lead dog

slid onto the pro at 4m, cleaned the rest of the route. What an amazing experience.

Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd
benkelsey 29/May/11 Lead RP

sagged onto no. 1 micro wire at 4 meters odd. lowered down and got back on it. committed to the right foot this time. grippy frictionless thin slab.. interesting

Hidden 29/May/11 2nd rpt
bpmclimb 09/May/11 TR rpt

I'm sure this is harder than when I first did it. Just a little less friction on one or two tiny footholds, I think.

with Shunt
bpmclimb 20/Apr/11 TR rpt
with Shunt
bpmclimb 27/Mar/11 TR rpt

Was still undecided about grade, and whether cam-slot at 6m on the R should be allowed.

with Shunt
bpmclimb 31/Jan/11 TR rpt

Guidebook checking

with Shunt
Hidden ?/Oct/10 -
gripped01 ?/Oct/10 Lead
with Rimon Than
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Didymus 03/Aug/10 Lead β

After abseil inspection. For me, crux was passing 3 micro-wires at 4m; I slipped off first go then got it second try. Bold and delicate traverse to overlap was spicey.

with Nick
Graham C 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 25/Jul/10 Lead β

brushed holds while lower of other route, the hard moves are not bold.

andy dunn 09/Aug/09 Lead dnf
with Alan
tobydunford 27/Jun/09 TR O/S

Did on a shunt, great fun

eddy-on-the-rocks 28/May/09 Lead O/S
with Geoff
ian d f ??/2009 TR
Peter Swift 28/Sep/08 TR dog

great on top rope.....come off once or twice on the lower start.....great climbing.

with Trevor
trevor macalonan 28/Sep/08 TR dog
Peter Swift ??/2008 TR dog
Silum ?/Oct/07 Lead dnf

Fell at 8m, thought i would just slide down, did so until the micowires held for a milisecond before throwing me out from the wall. Ground fall; broken talus, open dislocation; helicopter evac... 4 months recovery. Boooo!

with Anna
John_Hat 02/Sep/07 TR O/S
with Stevieblue
guy xavier percival 27/Aug/07 Solo RP
with none
freelancer_85 06/May/07 Lead dnf

Popped off at about 4m. Backed off. I'll get it next time ;o)

with Tom
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead RP
bpmclimb 18/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Scary moves over the overlap, with groundfall potential.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 18/Sep/06 2nd
Paul Robertson 26/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with Ben Friedland
Paul Robertson 08/Apr/06 Lead dnf

Cried off a few inches below the Caveman cracks.

with Paddy Wilson
Mark Stevenson ?/Jan/06 Lead
Mark Stevenson ?/Jan/06 Lead
Jon Greengrass ?/Jan/06 2nd O/S
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 2nd
chris sm ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

First E4. (Which is really E2)

with Pippa Froggatt
KRB 16/Apr/05 Lead O/S

A classic

with Chris & Martin
cornishben ?/Jan/05 Lead rpt
with Chris Sims
mol 16/Jun/04 2nd
with Timmy
Tim Steward 16/Jun/04 Lead
with Molly Thompson
Ally Smith ?/May/04 Lead
Paz ?/May/04 Lead β
with AS
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
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High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
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Style of ascent
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