25m. A sought-after lead! Start 3m left of the grassy ramp, just left of a hairline crack. Make hard moves, past microwire placements at 4m, to reach a good hold (slightly offline to the right at 6m is a cam slot: possibly E3 using this, more direct and bolder without). Climb up and then leftwards over a tiny overlap to good cracks (on Caveman); then step left again to finish up another blank area of the slab.
The original line, more suited to a solo ascent, went up right from the overlap and finished as for Slight of Hand (12.6.02 M J Crocker).

R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 27/Jun/2002

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20, Fairy cave hard stuff

Feedback

UserDateNotes
danieljames123 5 Aug Show βeta
βeta: When it says microwires, it definitely means micro! Peenuts are too big, think brassies or swedges.
 
Show beta
βeta: When it says microwires, it definitely means micro! Peenuts are too big, think brassies or swedges.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
rafaelfordgonzalez 8 Sep Lead
Hidden 5 Sep TR rpt
Paul Walley 5 Sep TR dnf
danieljames123 3 Aug Lead A bit terrifying not having brassies, my first gear was using the cam slot right at 6m. cool route, though a little unnerving when a couple straw drops of rain started appearing. Ended up only placing two runners on the whole route...
with lbenn1
A bit terrifying not having brassies, my first gear was using the cam slot right at 6m. cool route, though a little unnerving when a couple straw drops of rain started appearing. Ended up only placing two runners on the whole route...
with lbenn1
Donny M 28 Jul TR RP In theory I could lead this, but the lack of gear is worrying.
In theory I could lead this, but the lack of gear is worrying.
P.Tully 2 Jul Lead Bold, abbed to check gear, didn't use the cam slot
Bold, abbed to check gear, didn't use the cam slot
tedswag 21 May TR dnf
ARiches 19 May Lead β Clean but used cam slot out right
Clean but used cam slot out right
ARiches 28 Apr Lead β Clean to the last moves!! So frustrating
Clean to the last moves!! So frustrating
ARiches 28 Apr Lead dnf Fell (slid) at the first hard move (rock over) above two micro nuts.
Fell (slid) at the first hard move (rock over) above two micro nuts.
elahowson 21 Apr TR O/S
ARiches 14 Apr TR dog Good route, thin lower section with an easier top, need to lead!
Good route, thin lower section with an easier top, need to lead!
Hidden 14 Apr TR
Sam O'Rourke 26 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S
with Florence Wallace
with Florence Wallace
Bob Peters 7 Sep, 2018 TR RP Plenty of excuses this time. Will return with fewer. Quality effort from Col.
with Colum Reid
Plenty of excuses this time. Will return with fewer. Quality effort from Col.
with Colum Reid
Sam116 4 Aug, 2018 Lead RP Worked the bottom half on top rope first.
Worked the bottom half on top rope first.
Hidden 18 Jul, 2018 TR β
Hidden 18 Jul, 2018 TR O/S
patrickcd 29 Jun, 2018 TR rpt
with Ed
with Ed
needlefluff 20 Jun, 2018 2nd dog
with Laurent
with Laurent
nathanjmasters 12 Jun, 2018 TR dog
with rosso
with rosso
rosso 12 Jun, 2018 TR dog
steve_gibbs 12 Jun, 2018 TR O/S
James Leetch 3 Jun, 2018 2nd
with Yustina, Damon
with Yustina, Damon
Lady Vee 2 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
jsmcfarland 2 Jun, 2018 Lead rpt Gets easier every time. Fun!
Gets easier every time. Fun!
nimajneb 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S Scary !
Scary !
gem_stone12 19 May, 2018 2nd O/S
Hugobristol 21 Mar, 2018 Lead O/S stepped right to the cam slot, would have been very bold without
with Tom C, raf
stepped right to the cam slot, would have been very bold without
with Tom C, raf
spidermonkey ??, 2018 - Climbed to the accompanying musical sounds of the other side of the quarry gradually falling to bits! Thin thin climbing, make sure there’s no mud on your shoes and you’ve got plenty of fingernails.
Climbed to the accompanying musical sounds of the other side of the quarry gradually falling to bits! Thin thin climbing, make sure there’s no mud on your shoes and you’ve got plenty of fingernails.
ssutton 15 Jul, 2017 TR Took a couple of slips but it was raining a little bit
Took a couple of slips but it was raining a little bit
martin one 15 Jul, 2017 TR dog
with ssutton
with ssutton
ricci.andrea86 18 Jun, 2017 -
Dugster 3 Jun, 2017 TR
with Pete randal, cdpuk
with Pete randal, cdpuk
Hidden 19 Apr, 2017 TR
Hidden 19 Apr, 2017 TR
wurzelinzummerset 16 Apr, 2017 TR rpt
Matt Smith 10 Apr, 2017 TR O/S Stuck a top rope on this with the intention of leading after, but not on your nelly! Going to have to have gonads the size of planets! The moves were doable, but trying to place the gear would be tough and the consequences of falling off too high for me.
Stuck a top rope on this with the intention of leading after, but not on your nelly! Going to have to have gonads the size of planets! The moves were doable, but trying to place the gear would be tough and the consequences of falling off too high for me.
Bristoldave 24 Mar, 2017 Lead β Preplaced the micros and had a mat. (And used the cam obviously!)
Preplaced the micros and had a mat. (And used the cam obviously!)
Cheese Monkey 23 Mar, 2017 2nd O/S
Paul Baller 29 Aug, 2016 Lead RP
with matt stevens
with matt stevens
WilliamRupp 20 Jul, 2016 Lead
jsmcfarland 20 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt Led after Will fell on his lead attempt (the RP's held, holy shit!). Felt way easier than last time. Mixed feelings about the cam slot, kind of seems a little off-route.
Led after Will fell on his lead attempt (the RP's held, holy shit!). Felt way easier than last time. Mixed feelings about the cam slot, kind of seems a little off-route.
ngreen 3 Jul, 2016 2nd RP
Felix Ottey 5 Jun, 2016 2nd rpt
cdpuk 8 May, 2016 TR RP Worked some moves first go. Placed gear and clean ascent 2nd go. Will try a lead next visit maybe.
Worked some moves first go. Placed gear and clean ascent 2nd go. Will try a lead next visit maybe.
RobScarisbrick 8 May, 2016 TR
with cdpuk
with cdpuk
Gibbo 17 Apr, 2016 TR
with James Thompson, Ed Wright
with James Thompson, Ed Wright
Dan0Me 22 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
with James Smith, Mel
with James Smith, Mel
James Smith 22 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Not quite as bold as I'd expected but still quite exciting! It's almost a shame that it has to cross the big crack as otherwise it would give an excellent sustained pitch! (Though I was definitely glad to grab it when it came!!)
with Melonfly, dan
Not quite as bold as I'd expected but still quite exciting! It's almost a shame that it has to cross the big crack as otherwise it would give an excellent sustained pitch! (Though I was definitely glad to grab it when it came!!)
with Melonfly, dan
Phil Anderson ??, 2016 2nd dog
Neil Rigiani 18 Oct, 2015 TR dnf
with James Hill-Reid, David Coley
with James Hill-Reid, David Coley
Hidden 18 Oct, 2015 TR O/S
jsmcfarland 9 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Sustained, scary and brilliant. Missed seeing the cam slot on the right somehow so the only protection until the break was the solitary RP. Worst bit of the route was making myself not just launch myself at the break once it got close enough and stay focused. Once there I put in 3 cams before committing to the top section! This route is very serious, be warned.
Sustained, scary and brilliant. Missed seeing the cam slot on the right somehow so the only protection until the break was the solitary RP. Worst bit of the route was making myself not just launch myself at the break once it got close enough and stay focused. Once there I put in 3 cams before committing to the top section! This route is very serious, be warned.
Hidden 9 Aug, 2015 2nd
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 Lead β
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 2nd
felixizzy 18 Jun, 2015 TR rpt
with shunt
with shunt
felixizzy 12 Apr, 2015 TR O/S Amazing how little you can actualy stand on. May come back for a lead on this one.
with shunt
Amazing how little you can actualy stand on. May come back for a lead on this one.
with shunt
Felix Ottey 5 Apr, 2015 TR O/S
pablosordo ??, 2015 Lead O/S
Matt Amos 12 Sep, 2014 Lead RP Lost my footing just above the cluster of micros and two of them held. Got up the rest of it, and found it all pretty hard and very little gear. One of the only routes that has made me want to double up on some imps! The move off the floor is very hard indeed
Lost my footing just above the cluster of micros and two of them held. Got up the rest of it, and found it all pretty hard and very little gear. One of the only routes that has made me want to double up on some imps! The move off the floor is very hard indeed
abtibbs 7 Sep, 2014 TR dog
with Jamie Roberts
with Jamie Roberts
zcsharp 7 Sep, 2014 Lead RP
with abtibbs
with abtibbs
Hidden 20 Aug, 2014 TR O/S
Steve Woollard 20 Aug, 2014 TR
Hidden 27 Jul, 2014 Lead RP
Mihkel 27 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S On-sighted but at half-height, after the main difficulties, I put in two off-route side runners (in the E2 to the right) to eliminate the ground fall potential. Probably E3 that way.
with Ella (from Bristol)
On-sighted but at half-height, after the main difficulties, I put in two off-route side runners (in the E2 to the right) to eliminate the ground fall potential. Probably E3 that way.
with Ella (from Bristol)
Hidden 27 Jul, 2014 2nd β
Hidden 27 Jul, 2014 2nd β
MoWalker3 6 Jul, 2014 TR O/S
with shunt
with shunt
bpmclimb 22 Jun, 2014 TR rpt
with Shunt
with Shunt
winter hill1 2 Jun, 2014 TR
wurzelinzummerset 1 Jun, 2014 TR dog
stoneback 19 Apr, 2014 TR dnf
wurzelinzummerset 19 Apr, 2014 TR dog Had a slip off the crux, but got back on and finished.
Had a slip off the crux, but got back on and finished.
bpmclimb 18 Apr, 2014 TR rpt
with Shunt
with Shunt
petegunn 28 Jul, 2013 Lead Some good slab action, couple of micros at the start then nothing untill the crossover with Caveman (didn't use the cam slot, seems abit off line) a good upper section to finish and managed to dodge the showers :)
Some good slab action, couple of micros at the start then nothing untill the crossover with Caveman (didn't use the cam slot, seems abit off line) a good upper section to finish and managed to dodge the showers :)
Hidden 28 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
Cheese Monkey 15 Jul, 2013 TR dog Looks properly bold
Looks properly bold
skippington 30 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S I reckon that's still E4 with the cam slot. And it's not an eliminate route and the gear can be placed from the line, so...anyway. Great climbing, standing on not very much.
I reckon that's still E4 with the cam slot. And it's not an eliminate route and the gear can be placed from the line, so...anyway. Great climbing, standing on not very much.
sonic46 5 May, 2013 TR
Hidden 8 Dec, 2012 TR
Hidden 19 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
LukeyG 19 Sep, 2012 Lead flashed on tr, put gear in a stuck it on lead
flashed on tr, put gear in a stuck it on lead
Hidden 12 Aug, 2012 2nd dog
Stanners 12 Aug, 2012 Lead RP First E4 Headpoint! Me happy. Good Micros low down, but your ****ed if you fall from the precarious upper moves before the break. Fair play to anyone who onsights this. That said, don't think its anything too bad for E4.
First E4 Headpoint! Me happy. Good Micros low down, but your ****ed if you fall from the precarious upper moves before the break. Fair play to anyone who onsights this. That said, don't think its anything too bad for E4.
Andy Clarke 26 Jul, 2012 Lead β Beautifully intense slab moves. Checked out upper slab when seconding Caveman, but crux onsight. Didn't use cam slot. Hard to leave ground - getting slick.
with Johnny
Beautifully intense slab moves. Checked out upper slab when seconding Caveman, but crux onsight. Didn't use cam slot. Hard to leave ground - getting slick.
with Johnny
kelliroberts3 15 Jul, 2012 Lead β
Pete Rigby 15 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
with Kelli Roberts
Mr-Cowdrey 19 Jun, 2012 Lead β top roped a few months ago. Went back to lead it and felt alot easier than last time. Very marginal and spaced gear though.
with Gary Slade, Lorcan O'Brien
top roped a few months ago. Went back to lead it and felt alot easier than last time. Very marginal and spaced gear though.
with Gary Slade, Lorcan O'Brien
adam 24 2 Jun, 2012 2nd β
riddle 2 Jun, 2012 Lead β Clean ascent after failing at the first attempt
with adam 24
Clean ascent after failing at the first attempt
with adam 24
Hidden 24 May, 2012 TR dnf
bpmclimb 21 May, 2012 TR rpt
with Shunt
with Shunt
Rick Ashton 20 May, 2012 TR This seemed solid on top rope. Might have to try leading it next time though as you can just slide back to the start if unable to clib the crux
with Robert Drynda
This seemed solid on top rope. Might have to try leading it next time though as you can just slide back to the start if unable to clib the crux
with Robert Drynda
davenev 11 Oct, 2011 Lead RP Slid off onto the micros at 4m - very little friction - bold move over the overlap a long way from the gear.
Slid off onto the micros at 4m - very little friction - bold move over the overlap a long way from the gear.
Gary S 8 Oct, 2011 TR dnf
Mr-Cowdrey 8 Oct, 2011 TR
with Gary S
with Gary S
richiebongo 4 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
jamespilgrim 2 Sep, 2011 2nd dog slipped at the microwires at 5m
slipped at the microwires at 5m
MarkRyder 2 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 13 Aug, 2011 TR O/S Would be a nice route to get done.
with JIMBO
Would be a nice route to get done.
with JIMBO
Aaron Phillips 27 Jul, 2011 TR O/S no friction. nearly slid off several times but managed to levitate to the top by unknown means.
with Dawlish
no friction. nearly slid off several times but managed to levitate to the top by unknown means.
with Dawlish
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 TR O/S
riddle 11 Jun, 2011 Lead dog slid onto the pro at 4m, cleaned the rest of the route. What an amazing experience.
slid onto the pro at 4m, cleaned the rest of the route. What an amazing experience.
Hidden 11 Jun, 2011 2nd
benkelsey 29 May, 2011 Lead RP sagged onto no. 1 micro wire at 4 meters odd. lowered down and got back on it. committed to the right foot this time. grippy frictionless thin slab.. interesting
with remus
sagged onto no. 1 micro wire at 4 meters odd. lowered down and got back on it. committed to the right foot this time. grippy frictionless thin slab.. interesting
with remus
Hidden 29 May, 2011 2nd rpt
bpmclimb 9 May, 2011 TR rpt I'm sure this is harder than when I first did it. Just a little less friction on one or two tiny footholds, I think.
with Shunt
I'm sure this is harder than when I first did it. Just a little less friction on one or two tiny footholds, I think.
with Shunt
bpmclimb 20 Apr, 2011 TR rpt
with Shunt
with Shunt
bpmclimb 27 Mar, 2011 TR rpt Was still undecided about grade, and whether cam-slot at 6m on the R should be allowed.
with Shunt
Was still undecided about grade, and whether cam-slot at 6m on the R should be allowed.
with Shunt
bpmclimb 31 Jan, 2011 TR rpt Guidebook checking
with Shunt
Guidebook checking
with Shunt
Hidden ?Oct, 2010 -
gripped01 ?Oct, 2010 Lead
with Rimon Than
with Rimon Than
Hidden 27 Aug, 2010 Lead rpt
Didymus 3 Aug, 2010 Lead β After abseil inspection. For me, crux was passing 3 micro-wires at 4m; I slipped off first go then got it second try. Bold and delicate traverse to overlap was spicey.
with Nick
After abseil inspection. For me, crux was passing 3 micro-wires at 4m; I slipped off first go then got it second try. Bold and delicate traverse to overlap was spicey.
with Nick
Graham C 25 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
Marti999 25 Jul, 2010 Lead β brushed holds while lower of other route, the hard moves are not bold.
brushed holds while lower of other route, the hard moves are not bold.
andy dunn 9 Aug, 2009 Lead dnf
with Alan
with Alan
tobydunford 27 Jun, 2009 TR O/S Did on a shunt, great fun
Did on a shunt, great fun
eddy-on-the-rocks 28 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Geoff
with Geoff
ian d f ??, 2009 TR
Peter Swift 28 Sep, 2008 TR dog great on top rope.....come off once or twice on the lower start.....great climbing.
with Trevor
great on top rope.....come off once or twice on the lower start.....great climbing.
with Trevor
trevor macalonan 28 Sep, 2008 TR dog
Peter Swift ??, 2008 TR dog
Silum ?Oct, 2007 Lead dnf Fell at 8m, thought i would just slide down, did so until the micowires held for a milisecond before throwing me out from the wall. Ground fall; broken talus, open dislocation; helicopter evac... 4 months recovery. Boooo!
with Anna
Fell at 8m, thought i would just slide down, did so until the micowires held for a milisecond before throwing me out from the wall. Ground fall; broken talus, open dislocation; helicopter evac... 4 months recovery. Boooo!
with Anna
John_Hat 2 Sep, 2007 TR O/S
with Stevieblue
with Stevieblue
guy xavier percival 27 Aug, 2007 Solo RP
with none
with none
freelancer_85 6 May, 2007 Lead dnf Popped off at about 4m. Backed off. I'll get it next time ;o)
Popped off at about 4m. Backed off. I'll get it next time ;o)
Hidden 29 Apr, 2007 Lead RP
bpmclimb 18 Sep, 2006 Lead O/S Scary moves over the overlap, with groundfall potential.
Scary moves over the overlap, with groundfall potential.
Huntlyfiddler 18 Sep, 2006 2nd
Paul Robertson 26 Apr, 2006 Lead rpt
with Ben Friedland
with Ben Friedland
Paul Robertson 8 Apr, 2006 Lead dnf Cried off a few inches below the Caveman cracks.
with Paddy Wilson
Cried off a few inches below the Caveman cracks.
with Paddy Wilson
Mark Stevenson ?Jan, 2006 Lead
Mark Stevenson ?Jan, 2006 Lead
Jon Greengrass ?Jan, 2006 2nd O/S
Jon Greengrass ??, 2006 2nd
chris sm ?Aug, 2005 Lead O/S First E4. (Which is really E2)
with Pippa Froggatt
First E4. (Which is really E2)
with Pippa Froggatt
KRB 16 Apr, 2005 Lead O/S A classic
with Chris & Martin
A classic
with Chris & Martin
cornishben ?Jan, 2005 Lead rpt
with Chris Sims
with Chris Sims
mol 16 Jun, 2004 2nd
with Timmy
with Timmy
Hidden 16 Jun, 2004 Lead
Ally Smith ?May, 2004 Lead
with Paz
with Paz
Paz ?May, 2004 Lead β
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead
Hidden ?Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
17 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 30
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set