Rockfax Description
Butch stuff, and a touch reachy with it. Start at a small corner 3m right of the large block.
The overhanging, narrow corner is followed to a good break and a move left, from where a long, powerful move accesses still steep ground, though with more positive holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up a left facing corner and use its right arete to reach a break. step left and make powerful moves through the bulge above on layaways, eventually reaching finger-jugs and an easier finish

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Brean Down Sports Climbs.

seweryn 23/Sep Lead G/U
Tom Corras 04/Aug Lead
David Clover 06/Jul Lead dog
chris_woodsy 09/Jun Lead RP
with Sam, Widdaz
Harry Chaplin 17/Apr Lead RP

3rd go after making a hash of the 2nd. Ace moves through the crux.

with cal91
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 10/Apr Lead RP
with Ben J, Gemma
Ed Booth 02/Apr Lead β


Adam Booth 02/Apr Lead RP

2nd RP. Totally fluffed the OS attempt with whacky crux beta.

R2B 11/Mar Lead RP
Ramon Marin 11/Mar Lead rpt
with viki harvey
afrosam 19/Feb Lead RP

Quality route with a cool bouldery crux. 2nd RP.

with Pippa
Ramon Marin 28/Jan Lead rpt
with viki harvey
Pippa 25/Jan Lead dog
with Tom Mc
tommccluskey 18/Jan Lead RP

Went to put the clips in and didn't fall

Ramon Marin 25/Nov/16 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
blaza1 07/Nov/16 Lead RP

Bouldery, needed lots of beta from Mark T

with mark tomlinson
Garrouli 06/Nov/16 Lead RP

1st redpoint after working prisoner of bullworker.

with Mark
nickmoulden ?/Aug/16 Lead RP
with zoe bidula
grey wolf 13/May/16 Lead RP
Duma Brickhill 29/Apr/16 Lead RP

2nd go

BC 28/Apr/16 Lead RP

Finished with a split my tip and hero dyno beta

climbomaniac 09/Apr/16 Lead RP

1st go after getting on it last weekend. Absolutely brillant! Doing it the gaston-way. Cool climbing. Got a bit flashed pumped afterwards though and almost dropped it when a foot slipped. Who needs warm up anyway...

eddieclimb 07/Apr/16 Lead RP

Nice 1st tick of the year, as normal when it goes all of sudden it feels OK and you're left wondering why its the third session!

with Tom Rogers
climbomaniac 03/Apr/16 Lead dog

fell off crux on onsight. Made a ludicrously hard sequence through it compressing on the right smear for the foot. Sure enough fell off it on 2nd go. Then found the solution of going with right hand to gaston, crossing over to crimp with left and pulling through to good crimp. Much easier that way. Unfortunately too late/tired for 3rd go. Next time!

Kris suriyo 25/Mar/16 Lead RP

with Gary
_m.cox_ 12/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Ron B
Ramon Marin 12/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
Pippa 10/Mar/16 TR RP
with Caspian, Jacob
Caspian Johnson 10/Mar/16 Lead RP

first redpoint today after a session on the moves last week. Hero moves!

DorsetGareth 06/Mar/16 Lead RP

This should have gone ages ago! Sessions here and there spread over a couple of years. Felt good to get it done, nice route.

drcorbasisgod ?/Mar/16 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Feb/16 Lead RP
Rory Bascombe 25/Feb/16 Lead RP
with Jenna, Elliot, Jacob
Hidden 30/Jan/16 Lead RP
Hidden 23/Jan/16 Lead dnf
hankyc 07/Dec/15 Lead RP

Felt alright today, nice to unlock the sequence finally, perfect brean day!

Wise 29/Nov/15 Lead RP

Full credit to Gareth for having the faith to climb outside with such a terrible forecast. Cold and raining but luckily the strong wind kept it bone dry! Got a couple of knee bars in and then the key toe hook. Great technical climbing.

with Gareth
Matt Cooke 21/Nov/15 Lead RP
Billg 25/Oct/15 Lead RP
with Ollie
Hidden 19/Sep/15 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Sep/15 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Aug/15 Lead dog
Luuuuuke 29/Jun/15 Lead RP
with Si
Nick Russell 04/Jun/15 Lead RP

Amazing what difference a few beta tweaks can make! Didn't get everything right until the successful (fourth?) attempt, then it felt steady. Hard to grade in light of this. The lower wall is easy and there's a full rest (I really could get everything back at that kneebar) just before the crux. When unlocked the crux felt fine, and it's only 3 hand movements anyway.

Nick Russell 31/May/15 Lead dog

Four times up today. Took me ages to remember how to do it. Pretty convinced it will go now.

Hidden 23/Apr/15 Lead dog
Nick Russell 07/Apr/15 Lead dog

I think I can do the crux with the gaston beta (or my version of it, not sure what the standard method is). I think I did all but about half a move today. Also found the kneebar at the break :)

Hidden 29/Mar/15 Lead RP
tskelhon 29/Mar/15 Lead RP
Hidden 27/Feb/15 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Feb/15 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 21/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Feb/15 Lead dog
Nick Russell 01/Feb/15 Lead dog

Just feeling the holds. Seems the hard section is very short-lived.

yan hawkins 18/Jan/15 Lead RP
with cailean
JM 13/Dec/14 Lead RP

I did it first try but only onsighted the beginning and the end ; )

with Anna Reiners
Gibbo 27/Nov/14 TR dnf
with Lee Bateman
anthony henry 16/Nov/14 Lead RP

sacked in the gaston way as it was way too painful. did it the bullworker way and went pretty easily.

with Andy, Chris, Ali
i_a_coops 09/Nov/14 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Oct/14 Lead dog
Jack_F 26/Oct/14 Lead RP

Used the gaston method through the crux and skipped the big pinch. A good route.

with Remus
JPGR 19/Oct/14 Lead
brices 18/Oct/14 Lead RP
with Llinos
chrisscutt 12/Oct/14 Lead RP

love it!!

with ant
anthony henry 12/Oct/14 Lead dog

new beta using gaston. hopefully should go next time

with Chris
Hidden 04/Oct/14 Lead dog
jackgriffiths 23/Aug/14 Lead RP

Bouldering on a rope describes it best

anthony henry 19/Apr/14 Lead dnf

the middle crux feels desperately hard. Can only just make span

Holister 12/Mar/14 Lead RP

Amazing route, Next stop milky bar kid!!

with andy, lee
Bates 12/Mar/14 Lead RP

Wicked route. Loving Brean !

with Chris holister, Andy Brice
Mike Goldthorp 06/Mar/14 Lead RP

Bouldering on a rope innit! Wild dynamic moves, superb!

with Paul S, Giles, Hannah B
DorsetGareth 24/Nov/13 Lead dog
with Pip
Ellis Butler-Barker 19/Oct/13 Lead rpt

Surprised to get this first go; couldn't remember the sequence.

El3ctroFuzz 11/Oct/13 -

Should have flashed. 2nd go.

with Elaine Budden
Jon_Warner 21/Sep/13 Lead dog

Just one hard move. But the move felt too hard for me...

with Jenni
Ellis Butler-Barker 31/May/13 Lead RP

Mostly flash except the crux which I had done before so 1st redpoint attempt. Nice route

with Jim Pope, Gavin Symonds, Buster Martin
Gavinsymonds 05/May/13 -
3 Names 23/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
con321 21/Apr/13 Lead RP

Few dabbles on a top rope and went 1st redpoint

derico 21/Apr/13 Lead RP

Quality route, good banter working it.

with Jonny
peaches69 21/Apr/13 Lead RP

2nd redpoint after a play on the dog

with connor
brices 13/Mar/13 Lead dog
Hidden 13/Mar/13 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Mar/13 -
Cailean Harker 09/Jan/13 Lead RP

Glad to have finally climbed this. It was a funny route for me as I find the crux on this as hard as the crux on brean topping, although the hard section is a lot more short lived!

Hidden 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead dog
iforwms 14/Jul/12 2nd dnf
with Patty
brices 05/Jun/12 Lead dog
with james marshal, rupert
Justin T 28/Apr/12 Lead RP
dan gibson 18/Apr/12 Lead RP
with martin cleaver, julie carroll
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead RP
valecoastclimber 15/Apr/12 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt

I think I flashed this after Adam showed me the beta, but I'm not entirely sure as Brean is a bit of a climbing gym for me and don't really pay attention to the sends. Anyways, I logged it as RP just in case my memory is failing me ;)

with adam brown
quiffhanger 03/Mar/12 Lead RP

3rd go. Only 2 hard moves really - now solved so I can get on the Milky Bar Kid :)

with Jenni
pezzerrr 16/Feb/12 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Nov/11 Lead RP
gazhbo 13/Nov/11 Lead RP
James Marshall 23/Jul/11 Lead RP

tough gaston move

with rich hard rock
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead β
Ged Desforges ??/2011 -

The left hand side pull setting up for the crux has come off recently making this a lot harder. Now definitely solid 7c.

Paul Robertson 24/Oct/10 Lead dog
westyb3 ?/Sep/10 Lead RP
with Heather Ogston
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 08/Apr/10 Lead dog

F6c to a stopper move, then F7a to the top.

lx 10/May/09 Lead

Compared to other routes here there is no way this is 7c. Soft 7b/7b+. One fairly hard move thats a bit on off. The rest is a path. Nice enough but not 2 stars. Big loose jug at the top which is best too avoid, and only one bolt to lower off on, (and a hole where presumably the other on used to be).

with Neil Edmunds
Ricky Rocks 11/Jan/09 Lead RP
_m.cox_ ?/Jan/09 Lead RP
with Robyn Nelson
Ged Desforges ??/2009 -

The good left hand side pull that you use to set up for the move to the next left hand side pull has broken off. This is now a pretty hard move. The route is probably now very bouldery 7c+

Paul Robertson 15/Jul/08 Lead dnf
with Paz
Paz 18/Jun/06 Lead RP

Thankfully I wasn't too tired from Bourton the previous night and it just needed finishing off. I'd say it's 7b+ but I want the tick and tell myself it's unusual for 7b+s to take me longer than 2 days.

with PS
Paz 16/Jun/06 Lead dog

Started off the day not being able to dog the crux (aided it to put clips in) then with a bit of thought (and chalk) was falling off easy ground (again) above the crux -reach-(!), going for the redpoint. I pulled the top jug off, but I think it's actually easier without it.

with AB
Paz 30/May/06 Lead dog

Was very annoyed after falling off trying to jump/swap my feet, immediately after the crux slap.

with AB
guy xavier percival 31/Mar/06 Lead RP
with paul
Hidden ??/2006 Lead RP
Ally Smith ??/2006 -
12 users have this on their wishlist
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set