Rockfax Description
Butch stuff, and a touch reachy with it. Start at a small corner 3m right of the large block.
The overhanging, narrow corner is followed to a good break and a move left, from where a long, powerful move accesses still steep ground, though with more positive holds. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up a left facing corner and use its right arete to reach a break. step left and make powerful moves through the bulge above on layaways, eventually reaching finger-jugs and an easier finish

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Brean Down Sports Climbs

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Cassidy 15 May Lead RP
with Murray
with Murray
Depaulo 11 May Lead dnf Couldnt figure out the move through the bulge on the layaways. I will be studying the vid on youtube and shall return
Couldnt figure out the move through the bulge on the layaways. I will be studying the vid on youtube and shall return
S.Kew 1 May Lead dog Hard getting onto sidepull. Everything else linked. Last climb of day so was pleased with 1st go.
Hard getting onto sidepull. Everything else linked. Last climb of day so was pleased with 1st go.
Hidden 14 Apr Lead RP
Carl Watkins 11 Apr Lead RP
with del
with del
Stroppy 6 Apr Lead dog
Hidden 24 Mar Lead rpt
ian d f 17 Mar Lead RP 2nd go today, 3rd overall
2nd go today, 3rd overall
ian d f 9 Mar Lead dog
Slater425 9 Mar Lead RP 1st RP :)
with Chris
1st RP :)
with Chris
Michael Bortoluzzi 2 Mar Lead RP With move by move beta from Ramon. Still managed to fall out of the top pocket going for the jugs on the 1st RP
With move by move beta from Ramon. Still managed to fall out of the top pocket going for the jugs on the 1st RP
Ramon Marin 2 Mar Lead rpt
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
W d c 22 Feb Lead RP
with Al Rosier, Paul R., Carl Watkins
with Al Rosier, Paul R., Carl Watkins
Ramon Marin 16 Feb Lead rpt
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
Tomas Frost ?? -
Tomas Frost ?? -
Pippa 18 Nov, 2018 Lead RP The HARD way. I wonder how many people under 5'5" with only +1 ape index have done this? Only took 5 years of trying on and off!! Very stoked. Probably hard 8a the short person way.
with afrosam
The HARD way. I wonder how many people under 5'5" with only +1 ape index have done this? Only took 5 years of trying on and off!! Very stoked. Probably hard 8a the short person way.
with afrosam
Hidden 11 Nov, 2018 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 3 Nov, 2018 Lead rpt with crippling tennis elbow on both arms, so more like reassuring feeling to get up this in a sense that i can actually still climb things of moderate difficulty even i dont ever get my elbows back, so it’s not all lost
with viki harvey
with crippling tennis elbow on both arms, so more like reassuring feeling to get up this in a sense that i can actually still climb things of moderate difficulty even i dont ever get my elbows back, so it’s not all lost
with viki harvey
afrosam 2 Nov, 2018 Lead rpt
Hidden 30 Sep, 2018 Lead dog
felixwilkins 7 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
J1_TOV 30 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Climbed the easy parts. Didn't get the crux move but just tried it using a wild lurch.
Climbed the easy parts. Didn't get the crux move but just tried it using a wild lurch.
Tom92 7 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
james n 2 Jun, 2018 Lead RP Scorching hot today so waited most of the day for some shade. Nearly got it puting the clips in but got it clean next time. Pleased to get this as it felt pretty hard first time I got on it.
with Lisa P
Scorching hot today so waited most of the day for some shade. Nearly got it puting the clips in but got it clean next time. Pleased to get this as it felt pretty hard first time I got on it.
with Lisa P
J-Heb 16 May, 2018 2nd
mountain_jay 16 May, 2018 Lead RP Really enjoyed working this. The moves through the crux are pure class. surprised at how quickly they moved from feeling too powerful to doable! When I actually did it the whole thing felt not too tricky at all. Experimented with the knee bar but it didn't really do anything for me, and you can get a rest just before anyway. good times!
with james n, Andy wiseman, J-Heb
Really enjoyed working this. The moves through the crux are pure class. surprised at how quickly they moved from feeling too powerful to doable! When I actually did it the whole thing felt not too tricky at all. Experimented with the knee bar but it didn't really do anything for me, and you can get a rest just before anyway. good times!
with james n, Andy wiseman, J-Heb
Hugobristol 10 May, 2018 Lead dog Had a fun session on it despite lacking any endurance for a chance to link.
with raf, Eleanor
Had a fun session on it despite lacking any endurance for a chance to link.
with raf, Eleanor
james n 5 May, 2018 Lead dog Climbed in two halves. Didnt get through the crux from the ground.
Climbed in two halves. Didnt get through the crux from the ground.
Ramon Marin 25 Feb, 2018 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 25 Feb, 2018 Lead rpt Laps, laps and more laps
with viki harvey
Laps, laps and more laps
with viki harvey
Ed Booth 25 Feb, 2018 Lead rpt Lost lots of fitness and finger still knackered: felt far from steady :-) had been trying prisoner linkup.
Lost lots of fitness and finger still knackered: felt far from steady :-) had been trying prisoner linkup.
D.Russell 25 Feb, 2018 Lead RP Crux moves are my max span.
Crux moves are my max span.
Adam Booth 25 Feb, 2018 Lead rpt
Ramon Marin 24 Feb, 2018 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
Hidden 24 Feb, 2018 Lead RP
Hidden 11 Feb, 2018 Lead dog
Ramon Marin 14 Jan, 2018 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
Alex N-R 10 Jan, 2018 Lead RP
with chris hobbs
with chris hobbs
rado ?Jan, 2018 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 16 Dec, 2017 Lead RP
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
just one more 15 Dec, 2017 Lead dog
with Luke
with Luke
rhoslynfrugtniet 1 Dec, 2017 Lead RP 2nd go
with Si Rawlinson
2nd go
with Si Rawlinson
Carl Watkins 17 Nov, 2017 Lead dog End of day. Got the crux moves sorted so ready to start redpointing
with W d c
End of day. Got the crux moves sorted so ready to start redpointing
with W d c
Hugobristol 12 Nov, 2017 Lead dog Linked it in overlapping halves today, and got sequences sussed.
with blaza1, Eleanor
Linked it in overlapping halves today, and got sequences sussed.
with blaza1, Eleanor
Luke Dawson 9 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
James Smith 6 Nov, 2017 Lead RP 1st redpoint. Nice end to a lovely sunny day!
with melon, jake
1st redpoint. Nice end to a lovely sunny day!
with melon, jake
james n 5 Nov, 2017 TR dog Another 7c project started. Worked out a sequence through the crux using sidepulls on the left and right.
Another 7c project started. Worked out a sequence through the crux using sidepulls on the left and right.
Hidden 28 Oct, 2017 Lead RP
seweryn 23 Sep, 2017 Lead G/U
Tom Corras 4 Aug, 2017 Lead RP
David Clover 6 Jul, 2017 Lead dog
chris_woodsy 9 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
Harry Chaplin 17 Apr, 2017 Lead RP 3rd go after making a hash of the 2nd. Ace moves through the crux.
with cal91
3rd go after making a hash of the 2nd. Ace moves through the crux.
with cal91
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 10 Apr, 2017 Lead RP
with Gemma
with Gemma
Ed Booth 2 Apr, 2017 Lead β steady
steady
Adam Booth 2 Apr, 2017 Lead RP 2nd RP. Totally fluffed the OS attempt with whacky crux beta.
2nd RP. Totally fluffed the OS attempt with whacky crux beta.
Russell Blackaller 11 Mar, 2017 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 11 Mar, 2017 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
afrosam 19 Feb, 2017 Lead RP Quality route with a cool bouldery crux. 2nd go.
with Pippa
Quality route with a cool bouldery crux. 2nd go.
with Pippa
Pippa 19 Feb, 2017 Lead dnf
with afrosam
with afrosam
Ramon Marin 28 Jan, 2017 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
Pippa 25 Jan, 2017 Lead dog
tommccluskey 18 Jan, 2017 Lead RP Went to put the clips in and didn't fall
with Pippa
Went to put the clips in and didn't fall
with Pippa
Ramon Marin 25 Nov, 2016 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
blaza1 7 Nov, 2016 Lead RP Bouldery, needed lots of beta from Mark T
with mark tomlinson
Bouldery, needed lots of beta from Mark T
with mark tomlinson
Garrouli 6 Nov, 2016 Lead RP 1st redpoint after working prisoner of bullworker.
with Mark
1st redpoint after working prisoner of bullworker.
with Mark
nickmoulden ?Aug, 2016 Lead RP
with zoe bidula
with zoe bidula
grey wolf 13 May, 2016 Lead RP
Duma Brickhill 29 Apr, 2016 Lead RP 2nd go
2nd go
BC 28 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Finished with a split my tip and hero dyno beta
Finished with a split my tip and hero dyno beta
climbomaniac 9 Apr, 2016 Lead RP 1st go after getting on it last weekend. Absolutely brillant! Doing it the gaston-way. Cool climbing. Got a bit flashed pumped afterwards though and almost dropped it when a foot slipped. Who needs warm up anyway...
1st go after getting on it last weekend. Absolutely brillant! Doing it the gaston-way. Cool climbing. Got a bit flashed pumped afterwards though and almost dropped it when a foot slipped. Who needs warm up anyway...
eddieclimb 7 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Nice 1st tick of the year, as normal when it goes all of sudden it feels OK and you're left wondering why its the third session!
with Tom Rogers
Nice 1st tick of the year, as normal when it goes all of sudden it feels OK and you're left wondering why its the third session!
with Tom Rogers
climbomaniac 3 Apr, 2016 Lead dog fell off crux on onsight. Made a ludicrously hard sequence through it compressing on the right smear for the foot. Sure enough fell off it on 2nd go. Then found the solution of going with right hand to gaston, crossing over to crimp with left and pulling through to good crimp. Much easier that way. Unfortunately too late/tired for 3rd go. Next time!
fell off crux on onsight. Made a ludicrously hard sequence through it compressing on the right smear for the foot. Sure enough fell off it on 2nd go. Then found the solution of going with right hand to gaston, crossing over to crimp with left and pulling through to good crimp. Much easier that way. Unfortunately too late/tired for 3rd go. Next time!
Kris suriyo 25 Mar, 2016 Lead RP https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FFncyyfKC8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FFncyyfKC8
_m.cox_ 12 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
with Ron B
with Ron B
Ramon Marin 12 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
with viki harvey
with viki harvey
Pippa 10 Mar, 2016 TR RP
with Caspian, Jacob
with Caspian, Jacob
Caspian Johnson 10 Mar, 2016 Lead RP first redpoint today after a session on the moves last week. Hero moves!
first redpoint today after a session on the moves last week. Hero moves!
DorsetGareth 6 Mar, 2016 Lead RP This should have gone ages ago! Sessions here and there spread over a couple of years. Felt good to get it done, nice route.
with Wise
This should have gone ages ago! Sessions here and there spread over a couple of years. Felt good to get it done, nice route.
with Wise
drcorbasisgod ?Mar, 2016 Lead RP
jacobjohncharles 26 Feb, 2016 Lead RP
Rory Bascombe 25 Feb, 2016 Lead RP
with Jenna, Elliot, Jacob
with Jenna, Elliot, Jacob
Hidden 30 Jan, 2016 Lead RP
Hidden 23 Jan, 2016 Lead dnf
hankyc 7 Dec, 2015 Lead RP Felt alright today, nice to unlock the sequence finally, perfect brean day!
Felt alright today, nice to unlock the sequence finally, perfect brean day!
Wise 29 Nov, 2015 Lead RP Full credit to Gareth for having the faith to climb outside with such a terrible forecast. Cold and raining but luckily the strong wind kept it bone dry! Got a couple of knee bars in and then the key toe hook. Great technical climbing.
Full credit to Gareth for having the faith to climb outside with such a terrible forecast. Cold and raining but luckily the strong wind kept it bone dry! Got a couple of knee bars in and then the key toe hook. Great technical climbing.
Matt Cooke 21 Nov, 2015 Lead RP
Billg 25 Oct, 2015 Lead RP
with Ollie B
with Ollie B
Hidden 19 Sep, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 19 Sep, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 28 Aug, 2015 Lead dog
Luuuuuke 29 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
Nick Russell 4 Jun, 2015 Lead RP Amazing what difference a few beta tweaks can make! Didn't get everything right until the successful (fourth?) attempt, then it felt steady. Hard to grade in light of this. The lower wall is easy and there's a full rest (I really could get everything back at that kneebar) just before the crux. When unlocked the crux felt fine, and it's only 3 hand movements anyway.
Amazing what difference a few beta tweaks can make! Didn't get everything right until the successful (fourth?) attempt, then it felt steady. Hard to grade in light of this. The lower wall is easy and there's a full rest (I really could get everything back at that kneebar) just before the crux. When unlocked the crux felt fine, and it's only 3 hand movements anyway.
Nick Russell 31 May, 2015 Lead dog Four times up today. Took me ages to remember how to do it. Pretty convinced it will go now.
Four times up today. Took me ages to remember how to do it. Pretty convinced it will go now.
Hidden 23 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
Nick Russell 7 Apr, 2015 Lead dog I think I can do the crux with the gaston beta (or my version of it, not sure what the standard method is). I think I did all but about half a move today. Also found the kneebar at the break :)
I think I can do the crux with the gaston beta (or my version of it, not sure what the standard method is). I think I did all but about half a move today. Also found the kneebar at the break :)
Hidden 29 Mar, 2015 Lead RP
tskelhon 29 Mar, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 27 Feb, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 21 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S
PeterDawson 21 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Feb, 2015 Lead dog
Nick Russell 1 Feb, 2015 Lead dog Just feeling the holds. Seems the hard section is very short-lived.
Just feeling the holds. Seems the hard section is very short-lived.
yan hawkins 18 Jan, 2015 Lead RP
with cailean
with cailean
JM 13 Dec, 2014 Lead RP I did it first try but only onsighted the beginning and the end ; )
with Anna Reiners
I did it first try but only onsighted the beginning and the end ; )
with Anna Reiners
Gibbo 27 Nov, 2014 TR dnf
with Lee Bateman
with Lee Bateman
anthony henry 16 Nov, 2014 Lead RP sacked in the gaston way as it was way too painful. did it the bullworker way and went pretty easily.
sacked in the gaston way as it was way too painful. did it the bullworker way and went pretty easily.
i_a_coops 9 Nov, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden 26 Oct, 2014 Lead dog
Jack_F 26 Oct, 2014 Lead RP Used the gaston method through the crux and skipped the big pinch. A good route.
with remus
Used the gaston method through the crux and skipped the big pinch. A good route.
with remus
JPGR 19 Oct, 2014 Lead
brices 18 Oct, 2014 Lead RP
chrisscutt 12 Oct, 2014 Lead RP love it!!
love it!!
anthony henry 12 Oct, 2014 Lead dog new beta using gaston. hopefully should go next time
new beta using gaston. hopefully should go next time
Hidden 4 Oct, 2014 Lead dog
jackgriffiths 23 Aug, 2014 Lead RP Bouldering on a rope describes it best
Bouldering on a rope describes it best
anthony henry 19 Apr, 2014 Lead dnf the middle crux feels desperately hard. Can only just make span
the middle crux feels desperately hard. Can only just make span
Holister 12 Mar, 2014 Lead RP Amazing route, Next stop milky bar kid!!
with andy, Bates
Amazing route, Next stop milky bar kid!!
with andy, Bates
Bates 12 Mar, 2014 Lead RP Wicked route. Loving Brean !
with Holister, Andy Brice
Wicked route. Loving Brean !
with Holister, Andy Brice
Mike Goldthorp 6 Mar, 2014 Lead RP Bouldering on a rope innit! Wild dynamic moves, superb!
with Paul_southgate68, Giles, Hannah B
Bouldering on a rope innit! Wild dynamic moves, superb!
with Paul_southgate68, Giles, Hannah B
DorsetGareth 24 Nov, 2013 Lead dog
with Pippa
with Pippa
Pippa 24 Nov, 2013 Lead dnf
Hidden 19 Oct, 2013 Lead rpt
bunn.aroundthebloc 11 Oct, 2013 - Should have flashed. 2nd go.
with Elaine Budden
Should have flashed. 2nd go.
with Elaine Budden
Jon_Warner 21 Sep, 2013 Lead dog Just one hard move. But the move felt too hard for me...
with Jenni
Just one hard move. But the move felt too hard for me...
with Jenni
Hidden 31 May, 2013 Lead RP
Gavinsymonds 5 May, 2013 -
3 Names 23 Apr, 2013 Lead dog
with Ed Bulman
with Ed Bulman
con321 21 Apr, 2013 Lead RP Few dabbles on a top rope and went 1st redpoint
Few dabbles on a top rope and went 1st redpoint
derico 21 Apr, 2013 Lead RP Quality route, good banter working it.
Quality route, good banter working it.
peaches69 21 Apr, 2013 Lead RP 2nd redpoint after a play on the dog
with con321
2nd redpoint after a play on the dog
with con321
brices 13 Mar, 2013 Lead dog
with cha1n, Tomar
with cha1n, Tomar
Hidden 13 Mar, 2013 Lead dnf
Hidden ?Mar, 2013 -
Cailean Harker 9 Jan, 2013 Lead RP Glad to have finally climbed this. It was a funny route for me as I find the crux on this as hard as the crux on brean topping, although the hard section is a lot more short lived!
Glad to have finally climbed this. It was a funny route for me as I find the crux on this as hard as the crux on brean topping, although the hard section is a lot more short lived!
Hidden 21 Oct, 2012 Lead rpt
Hidden 13 Oct, 2012 Lead rpt
Hidden 31 Aug, 2012 Lead dog
iforwms 14 Jul, 2012 2nd dnf
with derico
with derico
brices 5 Jun, 2012 Lead dog
with James Marshall, rupert
with James Marshall, rupert
Justin T 28 Apr, 2012 Lead RP
dan gibson 18 Apr, 2012 Lead RP
with martin cleaver, julie carroll
with martin cleaver, julie carroll
Jonny_86 15 Apr, 2012 Lead RP Hard and powerful moves! Awesome route. Almost second go!
with derico
Hard and powerful moves! Awesome route. Almost second go!
with derico
valecoastclimber 15 Apr, 2012 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 11 Mar, 2012 Lead rpt I think I flashed this after Adam showed me the beta, but I'm not entirely sure as Brean is a bit of a climbing gym for me and don't really pay attention to the sends. Anyways, I logged it as RP just in case my memory is failing me ;)
with adam brown
I think I flashed this after Adam showed me the beta, but I'm not entirely sure as Brean is a bit of a climbing gym for me and don't really pay attention to the sends. Anyways, I logged it as RP just in case my memory is failing me ;)
with adam brown
quiffhanger 3 Mar, 2012 Lead RP 3rd go. Only 2 hard moves really - now solved so I can get on the Milky Bar Kid :)
with Jenni
3rd go. Only 2 hard moves really - now solved so I can get on the Milky Bar Kid :)
with Jenni
pezzerrr 16 Feb, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 13 Nov, 2011 Lead RP
gazhbo 13 Nov, 2011 Lead RP
James Marshall 23 Jul, 2011 Lead RP tough gaston move
with rich hard rock
tough gaston move
with rich hard rock
Hidden 27 Mar, 2011 Lead β
Tom Heslam ?Mar, 2011 Lead RP
Ged Desforges ??, 2011 - The left hand side pull setting up for the crux has come off recently making this a lot harder. Now definitely solid 7c.
The left hand side pull setting up for the crux has come off recently making this a lot harder. Now definitely solid 7c.
Paul Robertson 24 Oct, 2010 Lead dog
westyb3 ?Sep, 2010 Lead RP
with Heather Ogston
with Heather Ogston
Hidden 24 Apr, 2010 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 8 Apr, 2010 Lead dog F6c to a stopper move, then F7a to the top.
F6c to a stopper move, then F7a to the top.
lx 10 May, 2009 Lead Compared to other routes here there is no way this is 7c. Soft 7b/7b+. One fairly hard move thats a bit on off. The rest is a path. Nice enough but not 2 stars. Big loose jug at the top which is best too avoid, and only one bolt to lower off on, (and a hole where presumably the other on used to be).
with Neil Edmunds
Compared to other routes here there is no way this is 7c. Soft 7b/7b+. One fairly hard move thats a bit on off. The rest is a path. Nice enough but not 2 stars. Big loose jug at the top which is best too avoid, and only one bolt to lower off on, (and a hole where presumably the other on used to be).
with Neil Edmunds
Ricky Rocks 11 Jan, 2009 Lead RP
_m.cox_ ?Jan, 2009 Lead RP
with Robyn Nelson
with Robyn Nelson
Ged Desforges ??, 2009 - The good left hand side pull that you use to set up for the move to the next left hand side pull has broken off. This is now a pretty hard move. The route is probably now very bouldery 7c+
The good left hand side pull that you use to set up for the move to the next left hand side pull has broken off. This is now a pretty hard move. The route is probably now very bouldery 7c+
Paul Robertson 15 Jul, 2008 Lead dnf
with Paz
with Paz
hutch ?Oct, 2007 -
Paz 18 Jun, 2006 Lead RP Thankfully I wasn't too tired from Bourton the previous night and it just needed finishing off. I'd say it's 7b+ but I want the tick and tell myself it's unusual for 7b+s to take me longer than 2 days.
Thankfully I wasn't too tired from Bourton the previous night and it just needed finishing off. I'd say it's 7b+ but I want the tick and tell myself it's unusual for 7b+s to take me longer than 2 days.
Paz 16 Jun, 2006 Lead dog Started off the day not being able to dog the crux (aided it to put clips in) then with a bit of thought (and chalk) was falling off easy ground (again) above the crux -reach-(!), going for the redpoint. I pulled the top jug off, but I think it's actually easier without it.
Started off the day not being able to dog the crux (aided it to put clips in) then with a bit of thought (and chalk) was falling off easy ground (again) above the crux -reach-(!), going for the redpoint. I pulled the top jug off, but I think it's actually easier without it.
Paz 30 May, 2006 Lead dog Was very annoyed after falling off trying to jump/swap my feet, immediately after the crux slap.
Was very annoyed after falling off trying to jump/swap my feet, immediately after the crux slap.
guy xavier percival 31 Mar, 2006 Lead RP
with paul
with paul
Hidden ??, 2006 Lead RP
Ally Smith ??, 2006 -
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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set