A testing eliminate up the pillar between Schizoid and Speedfreak.From the top of the flake, step up on the left and balance up the flat pillar face to a good break. Pull over two tiny overhangs to reach a good "shakeout" jug on the left (on Schizoid). Now make a very fingery moves up to the right to reach good holds in a break. A long crimpy sequence up the rib above leads to a lower-off over a small bulge. Deviating into Speedfreak is definitely off-limits. Gaining footholds just left of the pillar (on Schitzoid?) allows a breather, and is probably ok at this grade.

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Cheddar Sevens

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
rhoslynfrugtniet 15 Sep Lead β
with Elyse, Olly
with Elyse, Olly
ReubenKouidri 1 Sep Lead dog
Hidden 26 Jun Lead RP
hankyc 19 May Lead RP 2nd go, nice route
2nd go, nice route
anthony henry 18 May Lead RP So good. Hardest of the 7b+'s on freaky wall imo
So good. Hardest of the 7b+'s on freaky wall imo
Pippa 14 May -
with Martin Grenfell
with Martin Grenfell
ian d f 11 May Lead dog Hold came off and so then did I
Hold came off and so then did I
Pippa 11 May Lead RP Almost on-sighted putting draws in. Second go
Almost on-sighted putting draws in. Second go
aiyer 26 Feb Lead dog Project
Project
DorsetGareth 19 Sep, 2018 Lead RP On a rainy day. Went smoothly, having the beta from previous session.
with Wise
On a rainy day. Went smoothly, having the beta from previous session.
with Wise
DorsetGareth 12 Sep, 2018 Lead dog Really good line. 7b in new guide, it's prob top end of that.
Really good line. 7b in new guide, it's prob top end of that.
Pippa ?Sep, 2018 Lead RP
with Simon P
with Simon P
patrickcd 23 May, 2018 Lead RP No slinking off to either side. Excellent climbing.
with Simon
No slinking off to either side. Excellent climbing.
with Simon
patrickcd 8 May, 2018 TR
just one more 8 May, 2018 TR rpt
Billg 22 Apr, 2018 Lead RP Lovely climbing. but resting on the left in Schitzoid can't be considered on route, surely?
with dan cook, Timm Oertel
Lovely climbing. but resting on the left in Schitzoid can't be considered on route, surely?
with dan cook, Timm Oertel
Hidden 22 Apr, 2018 Lead RP
Holister 22 Apr, 2018 Lead RP
Stuart William 15 Apr, 2018 Lead dnf In the pouring rain with a knackered rotator cuff. This was never destined to be a success. Did most of the moves, wasn't prepared to test my shoulder on the rest. A fun day nonetheless.
with Si P
In the pouring rain with a knackered rotator cuff. This was never destined to be a success. Did most of the moves, wasn't prepared to test my shoulder on the rest. A fun day nonetheless.
with Si P
Hidden 5 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
Smurf-cat 17 Sep, 2017 Lead RP
with Jake
with Jake
tobydunford 13 Jun, 2017 Lead RP
with Oli
with Oli
tommccluskey 11 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Smurf-cat 10 Jun, 2017 Lead dog Soon
Soon
tobydunford 23 May, 2017 Lead dog
with Oli
with Oli
Wise 10 May, 2017 Lead RP No hard moves but quite a lot of them. I found it hard to pick a sequence which made it exciting pumped on the redpoint. Good route.
with Matt
No hard moves but quite a lot of them. I found it hard to pick a sequence which made it exciting pumped on the redpoint. Good route.
with Matt
W d c ??, 2017 Lead β Ace. Really good climb. Going left to foot holds in Schizoid is natural as the hand holds go up the left of the arete then swing you back right around the arete onto the wall.
with Dan Cook
Ace. Really good climb. Going left to foot holds in Schizoid is natural as the hand holds go up the left of the arete then swing you back right around the arete onto the wall.
with Dan Cook
chrisscutt 29 Oct, 2016 Lead RP 1st redpoint, classic cheddar goodness
with sam
1st redpoint, classic cheddar goodness
with sam
Bates 25 Jun, 2016 Lead RP Wicked route! Nothing used on speed freak and no rest on shizoid. Sustained moves the whole way with a great techy sequence on small sharp crimps on the upper face. 1st RP.
with Andy Brice
Wicked route! Nothing used on speed freak and no rest on shizoid. Sustained moves the whole way with a great techy sequence on small sharp crimps on the upper face. 1st RP.
with Andy Brice
Nick Russell 23 Jun, 2016 Lead RP Second go. Well chalked holds and good conditions, felt very steady.
Second go. Well chalked holds and good conditions, felt very steady.
just one more 21 Jun, 2016 Lead RP Putting the draws in,had to fight at the top! Superb,varied route,one of my favourite Cheddar sport routes
Putting the draws in,had to fight at the top! Superb,varied route,one of my favourite Cheddar sport routes
patrickcd 21 Jun, 2016 Lead dog
J1_TOV 20 Jun, 2016 Lead RP 1st RP. Top sopping so didn't expect this and didn't touch anything on speedfreak. In fact I'd say it has its own very distinctive line. Has to be my favourite at the grade.
1st RP. Top sopping so didn't expect this and didn't touch anything on speedfreak. In fact I'd say it has its own very distinctive line. Has to be my favourite at the grade.
just one more 8 Jun, 2016 Lead dog
blaza1 23 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with Sam Young, liam jones
with Sam Young, liam jones
afrosam 10 Oct, 2015 Lead RP
just one more 9 Oct, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 4 Oct, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 2 Oct, 2015 Lead dog
pezzerrr 27 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Sep, 2015 TR dog
patrickcd 10 Sep, 2015 Lead dog
with Dronz
with Dronz
just one more 4 Sep, 2015 Lead dog
LucasHarazin 23 Apr, 2015 Lead RP
just one more 23 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
Hidden 12 Apr, 2015 Lead
Hidden 8 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
thomas108 ??, 2015 -
PeterDawson 31 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Jun, 2013 Lead RP
eddieclimb 26 Jun, 2013 Lead RP 1st RP, steady pumping all the way :)
with Tom Rogers
1st RP, steady pumping all the way :)
with Tom Rogers
Jon_Warner 26 Jun, 2013 Lead RP A good route. Some right foot action on Speedfreak. Some might call it off limits but it felt natural to me... There are L/R ways and variations up the penultimate face.
with Jenni
A good route. Some right foot action on Speedfreak. Some might call it off limits but it felt natural to me... There are L/R ways and variations up the penultimate face.
with Jenni
Hidden 26 Jun, 2013 Lead dog
Hidden 24 Jun, 2013 Lead dog
Jon_Warner 24 Jun, 2013 Lead dog Close.
with Jenni
Close.
with Jenni
ericinbristol 25 May, 2012 Lead RP Excellent route.
with Johnny S
Excellent route.
with Johnny S
Hidden 18 May, 2012 Lead rpt
Hidden 17 May, 2012 Lead RP
Hidden 25 Mar, 2012 Lead dog
Tom Heslam 19 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Thought it was fantastically technical. Pleased with the onsight, lovely and sustained. Just my bag!! :D
with Ed Heslam
Thought it was fantastically technical. Pleased with the onsight, lovely and sustained. Just my bag!! :D
with Ed Heslam
Tomar 18 Mar, 2012 Lead RP V good route. First 7b+ in a day.
with Tris.w
V good route. First 7b+ in a day.
with Tris.w
Tris.w 18 Mar, 2012 Lead RP Felt easy when it went, and deserves some stars. Just a bit fall-offable (even when fresh) near the top.
with Tomar
Felt easy when it went, and deserves some stars. Just a bit fall-offable (even when fresh) near the top.
with Tomar
brices 9 Mar, 2012 Lead β cheers sash for the beta stoked on this one
cheers sash for the beta stoked on this one
Hidden 9 Mar, 2012 Lead RP
maddy.c 6 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S First day at cheddar in 2012
First day at cheddar in 2012
Luke Dawson 26 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S pumpy but easy moves and decent ish shakeouts
pumpy but easy moves and decent ish shakeouts
Hidden 7 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
Wendy 22 May, 2011 Lead RP 3rd redpoint - should have had it second go but took a massive fall going for the massive jug at the end!
with Bungle
3rd redpoint - should have had it second go but took a massive fall going for the massive jug at the end!
with Bungle
_m.cox_ 28 Apr, 2011 Lead RP
with Steve Winslow
with Steve Winslow
Hidden 7 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Apr, 2011 Lead dog
Ricky Rocks 12 Feb, 2011 Lead rpt
richsmithinbristol 13 Nov, 2010 Lead RP Some good moves on decent holds. 2nd Rpt.
Some good moves on decent holds. 2nd Rpt.
Stefan Kruger 6 Nov, 2010 Lead RP 3rd rp. Nice route, if a bit eliminate.
3rd rp. Nice route, if a bit eliminate.
Paul Robertson 8 Sep, 2010 Lead dog
with Mike Goldthorp
with Mike Goldthorp
Richard Hall 25 Jun, 2010 Lead RP Good untill half hight then the line gets a bit confusing. Not a great route overall. May have been a bit too far left in the middle.
with Anais
Good untill half hight then the line gets a bit confusing. Not a great route overall. May have been a bit too far left in the middle.
with Anais
billb ?Jun, 2010 Lead
richsmithinbristol ?Jun, 2010 Lead
with billb
with billb
Hidden 7 May, 2010 Lead RP
eddy-on-the-rocks 5 May, 2010 Lead RP
with max
with max
James Marshall ?Apr, 2010 Lead RP
Kev Little ??, 2010 Lead RP
gazhbo ??, 2010 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 23 Oct, 2009 Lead dog Used Ray's beta which provides for a good shakeout at half height. Made it to the penultimate bolt three times.
with Ray Mardon
Used Ray's beta which provides for a good shakeout at half height. Made it to the penultimate bolt three times.
with Ray Mardon
Paul Robertson 2 Mar, 2009 Lead dog
Paul Robertson 25 Feb, 2009 Lead dog
Paul Robertson 17 Feb, 2009 Lead dog Managed all the moves.
Managed all the moves.
Hidden 10 Oct, 2008 Lead RP
guy xavier percival 3 Nov, 2006 Lead RP
with paul
with paul
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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set