Rockfax Description
This seldom climbed route has three good crack pitches plus some 'typical' Lofoten terrain. Start about 40m to the left of, and slightly higher than, the base of Vågarisset.
1) N5+, 45m. Climb a thin finger-crack through a bulge to reach a slab split by another vertical crack. Belay above on a ledge below some big overhangs.
2) 30m. Traverse left below this overhanging section to reach some grassy ledges.
3) N6-, 45m. An awkward and strenuous crack leads into a steep, grass-filled chimney. Climb the chimney to a big moss-covered ledge, and move out right to a belay.
4) 10m. Continue along the ledge around a block, and belay on top of a block, just below the start of the next crack system.
5) N6, 45m. Climb straight up a steep, beautiful finger-crack (N5+ and A0 with 2 points of aid) which soon eases back and widens before narrowing again just below a big belay ledge.
6) N5+, 20m. Walk right then climb a crack straight up to an overhang where the crack widens. Finish up the right-facing corner above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This seldom climbed route has three good crack pitches plus some typical Lofoten terrain. Start about 40m to the left of, and slightly higher than, the base of Vågarisset.
1) 5+, 45m. Climb a thin finger-crack through a bulge to reach a slab split by another vertical crack. Belay above on a ledge below some big overhangs.
2) 30m. Traverse left below this overhanging section to reach some grassy ledges.
3) 6-, 45m. An awkward and strenuous crack leads into a steep, grass-filled chimney. Climb the chimney to a big moss-covered ledge, and move out right to a belay.
4) 10m. Continue along the ledge around a block, and belay on top of a block, just below the start of the next crack system.
5) 6/A0, 45m. Climb straight up a steep, beautiful finger-crack (5+ with 2 points of aid) which soon eases back and widens before narrowing again just below a big belay ledge.
6) 5+, 20m. Walk right for about 5m, then climb a crack straight up to an overhang where the crack widens. Finish up the right-facing corner above.
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Grade: n6 ***
(Djupfjord)