UKC

Access Banned

The owner has not given permission to climb in the quarry and anyone doing so will be trespassing.
A few inconsiderate climbers who were approaching the crag from above, across the landowner's garden and parking in his drive has resulted in the landowner asking the BMC to make clear that he does not give permission for access to the quarry.
The main issues which led to this were:
- Climbers topping out into the gardens at the top of the quarry instead of using the chain lower offs installed to prevent this from becoming an issue.
- Climbers trying to access the top of the quarry by climbing over the landowner's garden fence and walking  through his garden
- Parking in the shared driveway next to the landowner's house at the top of the quarry, meaning that it cannot be used as a turning circle for the frequent large vehicles that drive up this road

(AKA The Sluice) Worthwhile as a warm up. Surprisingly clean for an unrecorded route. This effectively takes the leftmost line of the crag by lay backing up the corner. When the going gets tough, rockover left onto the separate rib of rock and clip the lower off below and left of that for One Over Eight.

Bruce Woodley.

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Route of Interest
Clingen

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Woodhouse Scar)

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