Restricted Access
WARNING- (see comments) The semi-detached boss at the left of the crag is moving away and will eventually fall apart. Please DO NOT climb or hang on it - if you pull it off, it could kill you.
No problems with access. From Edinburgh head to Blackford hill. The quarry can be found on the south side besides Blackford Glen.
Park either in the Edinburgh Observatory car park, on Braid Hills drive or on Blackford Glen Road - park in designated areas, don't block the access to the farms and to Edinburgh Council waste centre.
25m.
Traverse the entire crag starting on two glued holds just left of the black slab on the extreme right. Drop down below a chossy band of rock for 5m then drop very low around a big solid orange boss shield to reach a resting spot. Next follow a shelf system left past the low bore hole on sloping holds and poor footholds. There is one decent foothold close to the ground that unlocks this section. A hard drop under move blocks access to a knee bar rest in the middle of the crag. After the knee bar cruise left on anything via the high method until the crag runs out. Has also been done L-R at the same grade.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stuart Walker | 27 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Correction: ... continue along anything via the low method (not the high!) this give the 8b version Robbie did. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Correction: ... continue along anything via the low method (not the high!) this give the 8b version Robbie did. |
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