30m.

Rockfax Description
A well-travelled and testing pitch that wanders up to, and past the left side of the prominent triple pointed overhang midway up the crag. Start at a narrow ledge and stunted tree directly below the triple pointed overhang.
Move leftwards for 4m and then climb up to the left end of an 'eyebrow' overhang, large cams. Pull up its left side to a small ledge and then stride right above the overhang into a corner that is bridged to the left side of the triple pointed overhang, peg. Pull over the overhang and follow the slab to the base of a stepped white rib on the left. Follow the rib to a tree belay. Scramble to the top and walk off or abseil. © Rockfax

M Rhodes, P Ford 1957

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Bogies Challenge, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dom Goodwin 23 Sep 2nd O/S Excellent route, not to be missed with plenty of gear.
with Mbowell
Excellent route, not to be missed with plenty of gear.
with Mbowell
Mbowell 23 Sep Lead O/S Nice, some good moves. Steady and not unduly polished.
Nice, some good moves. Steady and not unduly polished.
Dave Cundy 16 Sep Lead
Binder 12 Sep 2nd O/S Some good delicate moves.
with Jake G
Some good delicate moves.
with Jake G
JGriffiths 12 Sep Lead O/S
George Cox 10 Jul Lead O/S
nickhamb 31 May Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 31 May 2nd
climbdevon 25 May -
Fakey Rocks 25 Feb Lead O/S A quick one for me, at 1hr 10 mins :) Seemed quite easy for HVS, one of the easiest of the 9 I've done here so far, (some people have found it hard though). Perhaps a bit bold in places because more peg reliant, but really can't remember it very well. Found a really good spot for the brown tricam on the top slab, very handy as not much other gear there, but it's not a hard part..can't remember where the hard part was tbf, well, perhaps the tripple pointed thing was awkward to negotiate! Voted low hvs and low 5a. Did the Lich after, (a repeat) and felt it was pretty tough in comparison to this.
with Harry
A quick one for me, at 1hr 10 mins :) Seemed quite easy for HVS, one of the easiest of the 9 I've done here so far, (some people have found it hard though). Perhaps a bit bold in places because more peg reliant, but really can't remember it very well. Found a really good spot for the brown tricam on the top slab, very handy as not much other gear there, but it's not a hard part..can't remember where the hard part was tbf, well, perhaps the tripple pointed thing was awkward to negotiate! Voted low hvs and low 5a. Did the Lich after, (a repeat) and felt it was pretty tough in comparison to this.
with Harry
Dave Cundy ?? -
omaskrey 30 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S A post work excursion. A somewhat wandering line but with good climbing. I wasn’t really sure if it felt 5a, it certainly isn’t overly strenuous but is a bit ‘interesting’ in places.
A post work excursion. A somewhat wandering line but with good climbing. I wasn’t really sure if it felt 5a, it certainly isn’t overly strenuous but is a bit ‘interesting’ in places.
JoeCoxson 30 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Bit of a disappointment really, not much of a line.
Bit of a disappointment really, not much of a line.
evhall 10 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
with goat
with goat
rosso 5 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
nathanjmasters 5 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with rosso
with rosso
Jim blackford 15 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S quite bold but steady climbing. Found good gear instead of first peg but imagine if you fell at the second overhang and that peg ripped.
quite bold but steady climbing. Found good gear instead of first peg but imagine if you fell at the second overhang and that peg ripped.
steve-grigg 14 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Lottie Green 14 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S Bolder than The Corpse, easier on the second. The crux actually felt really good. Less pumpy than expected!
Bolder than The Corpse, easier on the second. The crux actually felt really good. Less pumpy than expected!
Dakam12 11 Jun, 2017 AltLd
miriamclaire 26 Mar, 2017 2nd O/S
with hutchay
with hutchay
hutchay 26 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 21 Jan, 2017 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 21 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S Bold!
Bold!
naylers 20 Sep, 2016 2nd
No? Yes! 9 Sep, 2016 Lead Enjoyable - a lot to savour ! ( Why would others even attempt the scramble - currently fine anchor )
with John the Dec
Enjoyable - a lot to savour ! ( Why would others even attempt the scramble - currently fine anchor )
with John the Dec
Jonny_86 6 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Legs 24 Aug, 2016 Lead β
steve_gibbs 24 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt
with Legs
with Legs
Hidden 11 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Steve Bartle 10 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S A good test of footwork and nerve. Watch out for one or two very polished footholds at the main overhang
A good test of footwork and nerve. Watch out for one or two very polished footholds at the main overhang
danieleaston 10 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Hard balancey moves while quite runout. Good though
Hard balancey moves while quite runout. Good though
Hidden 9 Aug, 2016 -
Angrypenguin 9 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S A good route, HVS seems fair. However, when the guidebook says ab or scramble off, only one of these is a real thing. "A scramble" turned into 20 meters through very dense vegetation, the most unpleasant climbing experience I have yet had.
with Eleanor
A good route, HVS seems fair. However, when the guidebook says ab or scramble off, only one of these is a real thing. "A scramble" turned into 20 meters through very dense vegetation, the most unpleasant climbing experience I have yet had.
with Eleanor
Big_T 4 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
youwillfindjimbo 4 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Legs 23 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Rob Morgan 23 Jun, 2016 Lead
with Max
with Max
Moritz L 30 May, 2016 2nd O/S Very nice climbing, with a fairly loose big beneath he big overhand directly above the belay.
with Dan0Me
Very nice climbing, with a fairly loose big beneath he big overhand directly above the belay.
with Dan0Me
Dan0Me 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 4 May, 2016 Lead rpt
Bristol_Quornstar 4 May, 2016 2nd O/S
Snot 18 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
with Kev
with Kev
James Smith 2 Feb, 2016 Lead rpt I'll never get bored of this one. Best HVS on main wall for me!
I'll never get bored of this one. Best HVS on main wall for me!
Mike Roger ??, 2016 Lead
cheeky 1 Dec, 2015 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 1 Dec, 2015 2nd
with cheeky
with cheeky
Hidden 26 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
sheelba 15 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Delightful sustained climbing
Delightful sustained climbing
andy dunn 10 Apr, 2015 2nd
with Tom, J
with Tom, J
Luxulyan 14 Mar, 2015 2nd
with Tim
with Tim
Hidden 14 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
Stuart William 6 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S
with Martin
with Martin
Hidden 24 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S
Kevster 14 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Thoughtful climbing
with Josh Leak
Thoughtful climbing
with Josh Leak
Hidden 6 Jul, 2014 2nd
LucasHarazin 19 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
corinrathbone 19 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
with Łukasz Harazin
with Łukasz Harazin
George Frisby 11 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 11 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
jon_ridley 16 May, 2014 Lead O/S super steady
with j4star
super steady
with j4star
Slick 14 May, 2014 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Andrew Sloan 22 Feb, 2014 Lead O/S A few awkward moves and middle section below main overhang damp.
A few awkward moves and middle section below main overhang damp.
Matt_L_Robinson 19 Oct, 2013 2nd
Hidden 19 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 17 Oct, 2013 Lead RP
Mayaculpa 17 Oct, 2013 2nd
zcsharp 1 Aug, 2013 Lead rpt
with sjbrook
with sjbrook
sjbrook 1 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S Found my head wasn't in the right place, climbing no too tough but felt bold, even on second.
with Jamie
Found my head wasn't in the right place, climbing no too tough but felt bold, even on second.
with Jamie
ruaidh 17 Jul, 2013 2nd Ben says "a jolly jaunt up the wall"
with Ben
Ben says "a jolly jaunt up the wall"
with Ben
georgeevans88 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S
halfwaythere 25 May, 2013 2nd
with george
with george
Ed Babs 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with AlexD
with AlexD
AlexD 6 May, 2013 2nd
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
alastairbegley 24 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
James Smith 17 Apr, 2013 Lead rpt
with peter
with peter
pheotleyr 17 Apr, 2013 2nd β Very nice.
Very nice.
Dean Russell 6 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 5 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S Fun climbing, quite technical but not unfair for HVS. A few wet patches spiced things up.
Fun climbing, quite technical but not unfair for HVS. A few wet patches spiced things up.
Alex Winter 5 Mar, 2013 2nd O/S
with Nick and Jamie
with Nick and Jamie
zcsharp 5 Mar, 2013 2nd
Cheese Monkey 1 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S Excellent engaging climbing the whole way. Wish it hadnt been plastered in chalk by the previous party though. Bomber gear where you need it. Crux for me was the wet groove below the 2nd overhang, cut down on foothold options somewhat. Probably high end HVS, harder than Malbogies I thought?
Excellent engaging climbing the whole way. Wish it hadnt been plastered in chalk by the previous party though. Bomber gear where you need it. Crux for me was the wet groove below the 2nd overhang, cut down on foothold options somewhat. Probably high end HVS, harder than Malbogies I thought?
jcw ??, 2013 -
thomasadixon 30 Oct, 2012 2nd O/S Tough at HVS and the tricky move looked very bold - with or without large cams.
Tough at HVS and the tricky move looked very bold - with or without large cams.
BeccaSnowden 30 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S Hard for the grade. Bold.
Hard for the grade. Bold.
Becky H 20 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
with Harry Bloxham
with Harry Bloxham
HarryB 19 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Becky H
with Becky H
James Smith 15 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S really nice stress free climbing. decent protection at regular intervals and no stopper moves, just quite balancy in places. got attacked by wasps on the way down when i abbed through a nest!
with caleb
really nice stress free climbing. decent protection at regular intervals and no stopper moves, just quite balancy in places. got attacked by wasps on the way down when i abbed through a nest!
with caleb
Kemics 15 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S Very balancey and delicate climbing. Better than Malbogies?
Very balancey and delicate climbing. Better than Malbogies?
georgeevans88 6 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
aipattison 6 Sep, 2012 Lead rpt
georgeevans88 28 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with James N
with James N
jamesn89 28 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2012 2nd
richiebongo 11 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
with Nick Smith
mandy 28 Jun, 2012 Lead tough
with dan
tough
with dan
Stanners 17 May, 2012 2nd O/S Found this very much upper end for the grade. A thorough warm-up though! Nice one James.
with James Rich, Quarryboy
Found this very much upper end for the grade. A thorough warm-up though! Nice one James.
with James Rich, Quarryboy
JamesRich 17 May, 2012 Lead O/S Found the crux both bold and technical however it would have been better protected if I had taken some micros and some smaller cams.
Found the crux both bold and technical however it would have been better protected if I had taken some micros and some smaller cams.
Hidden 17 May, 2012 2nd O/S
Slick 28 Mar, 2012 Lead First proper HGV of the season - felt harder than it used to!
with Kevin Vans-Colina
First proper HGV of the season - felt harder than it used to!
with Kevin Vans-Colina
The Ivanator 22 Jan, 2012 Lead rpt
with jezb1
with jezb1
jezb1 22 Jan, 2012 2nd Quite a good route. Requires some concentration on a couple of sections.
Quite a good route. Requires some concentration on a couple of sections.
The Ivanator 27 Nov, 2011 2nd O/S Decent gear, never too strenuous, but makes you think most of the way. Neat feet the answer, nice route and not as polished as I expected. Amazing day for late November, the team across from us were climbing in shorts! Arranging a solid belay at the start isn't easy, cracks either side of a scarily mobile block, or dicey scrambling up to a decent cam slot that can be extended were the options, I heard there used to be a reasonable tree.
Decent gear, never too strenuous, but makes you think most of the way. Neat feet the answer, nice route and not as polished as I expected. Amazing day for late November, the team across from us were climbing in shorts! Arranging a solid belay at the start isn't easy, cracks either side of a scarily mobile block, or dicey scrambling up to a decent cam slot that can be extended were the options, I heard there used to be a reasonable tree.
Alan100 30 Oct, 2011 Lead Good moves that focus on footwork
Good moves that focus on footwork
cem 21 Aug, 2011 2nd
with GrahamD
with GrahamD
Hidden 9 Jun, 2011 2nd β
aipattison 9 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
catemuir 9 Jun, 2011 2nd
Hidden 9 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
msoldn 8 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S
with Rory
with Rory
Slick 1 Jun, 2011 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Dale ?Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Johny decided to lead this it was write on the top of his grade, he found it hard didn't want to commit to step across after frist overhang. So he came down and I took over to be fair thought it was hard for HVS not sure if it cause I wasn't used to the climbing first time climbing here this year. The step across easy 5b and the levatate threw second overhang hard 5b need good footwork. Brill route. After all that it was so hot really hot we decided to run off and find shade
with johny
Johny decided to lead this it was write on the top of his grade, he found it hard didn't want to commit to step across after frist overhang. So he came down and I took over to be fair thought it was hard for HVS not sure if it cause I wasn't used to the climbing first time climbing here this year. The step across easy 5b and the levatate threw second overhang hard 5b need good footwork. Brill route. After all that it was so hot really hot we decided to run off and find shade
with johny
ruaidh 19 May, 2011 Lead O/S Cool route. Almost gave this two stars. A few delicate moves, couple of airy steps, but nothing too strenuous. Abbed off on 46m of rope - just about made it to the belay ledge.
Cool route. Almost gave this two stars. A few delicate moves, couple of airy steps, but nothing too strenuous. Abbed off on 46m of rope - just about made it to the belay ledge.
martinazando 19 May, 2011 2nd O/S
with ruaidh
with ruaidh
Hidden 14 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Lev 14 May, 2011 2nd O/S
with Emma
with Emma
Rob Exile Ward 17 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Great route, I thought the move past the top overhang quite trying tbh.
with Sam Ward
Great route, I thought the move past the top overhang quite trying tbh.
with Sam Ward
alasdair19 ??, 2011 -
31770 ??, 2011 -
Sarahcrowsley 20 Oct, 2010 2nd
_m.cox_ ?Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
with westyb3
with westyb3
TDembrey 21 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
with Clay C
with Clay C
Hidden 21 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
evhall 10 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S lovely route - interesting move through the first overhang...
with james, Fletch
lovely route - interesting move through the first overhang...
with james, Fletch
Bloater 26 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
with Big Gay Jord
with Big Gay Jord
Slick 5 Jul, 2010 Lead
with Kevin Vans-Colina
with Kevin Vans-Colina
andy dunn 15 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Alan
with Alan
Hidden 28 May, 2010 Lead O/S
67hours 28 May, 2010 2nd
with ECooper
with ECooper
31770 13 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
with Jesse Dufton
with Jesse Dufton
markfromstoke ??, 2010 -
Hidden 2 Oct, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 2 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK 22 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with Brian (bpm climb)
with Brian (bpm climb)
bpmclimb 22 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S
RagingPuffin 16 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
with Emily Reynolds
with Emily Reynolds
Al Franks 16 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
with Emily Reynolds
with Emily Reynolds
Hidden 7 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 6 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with Joe
with Joe
Hidden 4 Sep, 2007 Lead β
Hidden 12 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
Marti999 ?Mar, 2007 -
Fat Tim 16 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol ?Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
al99 ?Feb, 2005 Lead O/S
with Jeremy king
with Jeremy king
IceMonkey1982 ??, 2005 -
tom.e ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2004 Lead
Paz ?May, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden ?May, 2003 2nd
Jason Gotel ?Aug, 2002 TR
MikeC59 23 Jun, 2002 2nd
Boxy 16 Jun, 2002 Lead O/S
with Mick
with Mick
alan moore ??, 2000 - Hot ice. Scary.
Hot ice. Scary.
colin milton 28 Aug, 1995 2nd
with eric milton
with eric milton
chris sm 22 Jun, 1995 Lead O/S
mikej 16 Apr, 1995 Lead
with Nick Salmon
with Nick Salmon
lowersharpnose 1 Jan, 1995 Lead
Hidden ??, 1994 -
AndyB123 ??, 1988 AltLd
with Andy E
with Andy E
surfbish ?Apr, 1987 Lead
Hidden 15 Jun, 1986 Lead
sadams 5 May, 1986 2nd
with Mark Bonham
with Mark Bonham
JamieAyres ?Aug, 1985 Lead rpt Nige fell off this in about '83 - first visit to the Gorge.. had struggled 2nd-ing this with Phil in '84 & earlier in '85.
with Peter Rickard
Nige fell off this in about '83 - first visit to the Gorge.. had struggled 2nd-ing this with Phil in '84 & earlier in '85.
with Peter Rickard
Pete Nugent 5 May, 1985 Lead HVS,5a**at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
with Ian Makin
HVS,5a**at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
with Ian Makin
pete johnson ??, 1985 -
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
Nigel Bond 10 Oct, 1982 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
with Charlie Leverton
The Reaper 4 Sep, 1982 Lead O/S
Sully 15 Aug, 1982 Lead O/S
duncan ?Jul, 1982 Solo O/S
stp 25 Mar, 1982 Solo rpt Lead in May 81
Lead in May 81
mark-abz 15 Feb, 1982 Lead
with Andy W
with Andy W
Pete Wimbush ?Jan, 1982 Lead
with Paddy Gibson
with Paddy Gibson
AlanLittle ??, 1982 Lead
Nigel Coe 28 Jun, 1981 -
with John Walmsley
with John Walmsley
Chris Terrey 15 Feb, 1981 AltLd
with Mike O'Brien
with Mike O'Brien
charlesmfrench ??, 1981 2nd O/S
Steve Bell ??, 1981 -
Hidden ??, 1981 -
Brian Wilderspin 29 Nov, 1980 2nd
with Walter Phipps
with Walter Phipps
tapley 7 Sep, 1980 Lead
with Alison Tapley
with Alison Tapley
mitch1960 ??, 1980 AltLd
with Mark Nicholson
with Mark Nicholson
peterbeaumont ??, 1980 -
Ken Taylor 15 Oct, 1978 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
with Gerry Dunford
Hidden 10 Jul, 1977 2nd O/S
Andy Chadwick ??, 1977 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 27 Jan, 1976 AltLd
with Morty
with Morty
Andy Chubb ??, 1976 AltLd
with Pete Coghill
with Pete Coghill
Marcus 23 Nov, 1975 -
with Roger Stokes
with Roger Stokes
Mark Kemball 19 Apr, 1975 2nd
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
Rick51 29 Jul, 1973 AltLd
Steve Woollard ??, 1973 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Jul, 1972 Lead
deepstar ?Sep, 1970 Lead dnf Big fall after finishing90% of the climb,ripped all the pegs out,saved by tree
with Dick Mctaggart
Big fall after finishing90% of the climb,ripped all the pegs out,saved by tree
with Dick Mctaggart
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 46
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set