Rockfax Description
A well-travelled and testing pitch that wanders up to, and past the left side of the prominent triple pointed overhang midway up the crag. Start at a narrow ledge and stunted tree directly below the triple pointed overhang.
Move leftwards for 4m and then climb up to the left end of an 'eyebrow' overhang, large cams. Pull up its left side to a small ledge and then stride right above the overhang into a corner that is bridged to the left side of the triple pointed overhang, peg. Pull over the overhang and follow the slab to the base of a stepped white rib on the left. Follow the rib to a tree belay. Scramble to the top and walk off or abseil. © Rockfax

M Rhodes, P Ford 1957

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

steve-grigg 14/Oct Lead O/S
Lottie Green 14/Oct 2nd O/S

Bolder than The Corpse, easier on the second. The crux actually felt really good. Less pumpy than expected!

Dakam12 11/Jun AltLd
miriamclaire 26/Mar 2nd O/S
with hutchay
hutchay 26/Mar Lead O/S
EllieWoods 21/Jan 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 21/Jan Lead O/S


naylers 20/Sep/16 2nd
No? Yes! 09/Sep/16 Lead

Enjoyable - a lot to savour ! ( Why would others even attempt the scramble - currently fine anchor )

with John the Dec
Hidden 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Legs 24/Aug/16 Lead β
with Steve
steve_gibbs 24/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Steve Bartle 10/Aug/16 2nd O/S

A good test of footwork and nerve. Watch out for one or two very polished footholds at the main overhang

danieleaston 10/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Hard balancey moves while quite runout. Good though

with Steve
EC 09/Aug/16 -

As Pete said. Covered in bramble scratches. Top-out scramble was awful - crawling under roots and through thickets of thorns. Very claustrophobic & not nice (and I am a caver!)

with Pete
Angrypenguin 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S

A good route, HVS seems fair. However, when the guidebook says ab or scramble off, only one of these is a real thing. "A scramble" turned into 20 meters through very dense vegetation, the most unpleasant climbing experience I have yet had.

with Eleanor
Big_T 04/Aug/16 2nd O/S
youwillfindjimbo 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Legs 23/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Rob Morgan 23/Jun/16 Lead
with Max
Moritz L 30/May/16 2nd O/S

Very nice climbing, with a fairly loose big beneath he big overhand directly above the belay.

Dan0Me 30/May/16 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 04/May/16 Lead rpt
with Alex Rhodes
Bristol_Quornstar 04/May/16 2nd O/S
Circus 18/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Kev
James S 02/Feb/16 Lead rpt

I'll never get bored of this one. Best HVS on main wall for me!

with melty
Mike Roger ??/2016 Lead
cheeky 01/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 01/Dec/15 2nd
Pohil 26/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with SP
sheelba 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Delightful sustained climbing

andy dunn 10/Apr/15 2nd
with Tom, J
Luxulyan 14/Mar/15 2nd
with Tim
tim.fairhall 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Richard
Stuart William 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Martin
Hidden 24/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Kevster 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Thoughtful climbing

with Josh Leak
Hidden 06/Jul/14 2nd
LucasHarazin 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
corinrathbone 19/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Łukasz Harazin
George Frisby 11/Jun/14 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
jon_ridley 16/May/14 Lead O/S

super steady

Slick 14/May/14 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Andrew Sloan 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S

A few awkward moves and middle section below main overhang damp.

Matt_L_Robinson 19/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 19/Oct/13 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 17/Oct/13 Lead RP
with Mike
Hidden 17/Oct/13 2nd
zcsharp 01/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Sam
sjbrook 01/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Found my head wasn't in the right place, climbing no too tough but felt bold, even on second.

with Jamie
ruaidh 17/Jul/13 2nd

Ben says "a jolly jaunt up the wall"

with Ben
georgeevans88 25/May/13 Lead O/S
halfwaythere 25/May/13 2nd
with george
Ed Babs 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with AlexD
AlexD 06/May/13 2nd
with Ed
alastairbegley 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
James S 17/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with peter
pheotleyr 17/Apr/13 2nd β

Very nice.

with James
Dean Russell 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 05/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Fun climbing, quite technical but not unfair for HVS. A few wet patches spiced things up.

Alex Winter 05/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Nick and Jamie
zcsharp 05/Mar/13 2nd
Cheese Monkey 01/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Excellent engaging climbing the whole way. Wish it hadnt been plastered in chalk by the previous party though. Bomber gear where you need it. Crux for me was the wet groove below the 2nd overhang, cut down on foothold options somewhat. Probably high end HVS, harder than Malbogies I thought?

with Goss
jcw ??/2013 -
thomasadixon 30/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Tough at HVS and the tricky move looked very bold - with or without large cams.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 30/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Hard for the grade. Bold.

with Tom
Becky H 20/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Harry Bloxham
HarryB 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Becky
James S 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

really nice stress free climbing. decent protection at regular intervals and no stopper moves, just quite balancy in places. got attacked by wasps on the way down when i abbed through a nest!

with caleb
Kemics 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Very balancey and delicate climbing. Better than Malbogies?

with James S
georgeevans88 06/Sep/12 2nd O/S
aipattison 06/Sep/12 Lead rpt
georgeevans88 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with James N
jamesn89 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/12 2nd
richiebongo 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
mandy 28/Jun/12 Lead


with dan
Stanners 17/May/12 2nd O/S

Found this very much upper end for the grade. A thorough warm-up though! Nice one James.

with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
JamesRich 17/May/12 Lead O/S

Found the crux both bold and technical however it would have been better protected if I had taken some micros and some smaller cams.

Quarryboy 17/May/12 2nd O/S

Just goes to show that even on a bold HVS hexes can sometimes be of use.

Slick 28/Mar/12 Lead

First proper HGV of the season - felt harder than it used to!

with Kevin Vans-Colina
The Ivanator 22/Jan/12 Lead rpt
with Jez
jezb1 22/Jan/12 2nd

Quite a good route. Requires some concentration on a couple of sections.

The Ivanator 27/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Decent gear, never too strenuous, but makes you think most of the way. Neat feet the answer, nice route and not as polished as I expected. Amazing day for late November, the team across from us were climbing in shorts! Arranging a solid belay at the start isn't easy, cracks either side of a scarily mobile block, or dicey scrambling up to a decent cam slot that can be extended were the options, I heard there used to be a reasonable tree.

with Stewart
Alan100 30/Oct/11 Lead

Good moves that focus on footwork

cem 21/Aug/11 2nd
jas128 09/Jun/11 2nd β
aipattison 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
catemuir 09/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
msoldn 08/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Rory
Slick 01/Jun/11 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Dale ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Johny decided to lead this it was write on the top of his grade, he found it hard didn't want to commit to step across after frist overhang. So he came down and I took over to be fair thought it was hard for HVS not sure if it cause I wasn't used to the climbing first time climbing here this year. The step across easy 5b and the levatate threw second overhang hard 5b need good footwork. Brill route. After all that it was so hot really hot we decided to run off and find shade

with johny
ruaidh 19/May/11 Lead O/S

Cool route. Almost gave this two stars. A few delicate moves, couple of airy steps, but nothing too strenuous. Abbed off on 46m of rope - just about made it to the belay ledge.

martinazando 19/May/11 2nd O/S
with ruaidh
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead O/S
Lev 14/May/11 2nd O/S
Rob Exile Ward 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Great route, I thought the move past the top overhang quite trying tbh.

with Sam Ward
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
31770 ??/2011 -
_m.cox_ ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
TDembrey 21/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Clay
Clay C 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Todd
evhall 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

lovely route - interesting move through the first overhang...

with james, Fletch
Bloater 26/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Big Gay Jord
Slick 05/Jul/10 Lead
with Kevin Vans-Colina
andy dunn 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Alan
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
67hours 28/May/10 2nd
with Eleri
31770 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Jesse Dufton
Hidden 02/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Brian (bpm climb)
bpmclimb 22/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Mark
RagingPuffin 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Emily Reynolds
Al Franks 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Emily Reynolds
Hidden 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Joe
Hidden 04/Sep/07 Lead β
Hidden 12/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Marti999 ?/Mar/07 -
Fat Tim 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
al99 ?/Feb/05 Lead O/S
with Jeremy king
IceMonkey1982 ??/2005 -
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead
Paz ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with TS
Jason Gotel ?/Aug/02 TR
MikeC59 23/Jun/02 2nd
Boxy 16/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Mick
alan moore ??/2000 -

Hot ice. Scary.

colin milton 28/Aug/95 2nd
with eric milton
chris sm 22/Jun/95 Lead O/S
mikej 16/Apr/95 Lead
with Nick Salmon
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 -
AndyB123 ??/1988 AltLd
with Andy E
surfbish ?/Apr/87 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/86 Lead
sadams 05/May/86 2nd
with Mark Bonham
JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 Lead rpt

Nige fell off this in about '83 - first visit to the Gorge.. had struggled 2nd-ing this with Phil in '84 & earlier in '85.

with Peter Rickard
Pete Nugent 05/May/85 Lead

HVS,5a**at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)

with Ian Makin
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Nigel Bond 10/Oct/82 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
The Reaper 04/Sep/82 Lead O/S
duncan ?/Jul/82 Solo O/S
stp 25/Mar/82 Solo rpt

Lead in May 81

mark-abz 15/Feb/82 Lead
with Andy W
AlanLittle ??/1982 Lead
Nigel Coe 28/Jun/81 -
with John Walmsley
Chris Terrey 15/Feb/81 AltLd
with Mike O'Brien
charlesmfrench ??/1981 2nd O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Paul Clarke ??/1981 -
Brian Wilderspin 29/Nov/80 2nd
with Walter Phipps
tapley 07/Sep/80 Lead
with Alison Tapley
mitch1960 ??/1980 AltLd
with Mark Nicholson
peterbeaumont ??/1980 -
Ken Taylor 15/Oct/78 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Hidden 10/Jul/77 2nd O/S
Andy Chadwick ??/1977 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 27/Jan/76 AltLd
with Morty
Andy Chubb ??/1976 AltLd
with Pete Coghill
Marcus 23/Nov/75 -
with Roger Stokes
Mark Kemball 19/Apr/75 2nd
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
Steve Woollard ??/1973 Lead O/S
jon 07/Jul/72 Lead
with roger b
Hidden ?/Sep/70 Lead dnf
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 43
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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