Rockfax Description
An intimidating pitch featuring both delicate and strenuous climbing. Start at the peg and nut belay of Krapp's Last Tape.
Climb up rightwards past a peg and up a shallow corner to an overhang, pegs. Pull over the overhang at a tiny corner, 2 pegs, and continue to a bolt. Steep climbing through the overhangs above on reasonable holds gains a break and bolt above. Head upwards to a shallow depression with two bolts in its left wall and climb it to its end, from where moves left reach an abseil station. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the wall right of Krapps Last Tape.
From the initial belay ledge of KLT, climb up, peg, and right into a shallow groove, peg. Climb this to its end, peg, then pull right, peg, and make a series of hard slopey pulls,into another groove peg then bolt. Pull up to a good undercut (Friend 3.5) then left over the bulge to a rest, bolt. Move right and climb a difficult steep and slippery groove past two new resin bolts, then traverse left to a belay (which is in dire need of replacement)

C King (C Jones, F E Bennett at A2 on 12/Sep/1965 and with 1 aid pt by A Strapcans, R Harrison 1976) Jun/1978

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

haribotheclimber 06/May/17 2nd dog
with Ed babs
Ed Babs 29/Apr/17 Lead dog

Foot slip in polished crux scoop. Bit gutted as I'd climbed that bit before on central wall. Well worth coming back for. Left at low roof.

with Eddie Young
Nick Russell 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Good, varied climbing with plenty of rests. I found the first overhang technically harder than the scoop at the top. Pretty poor conditions, but the drizzle didn't start in earnest until we were on the way down.

Alex Winter 24/Jul/16 2nd O/S

God I'm unfit.

with Nick
Bristoldave 23/Sep/15 Lead β
with Ben
benkelsey 23/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Introduction to Avon's weird style. Good climbing with a crux mantle at one third.

ollie_e 10/Jun/15 Lead RP

Very good route - not one to climb in the sun. Came off mid crux, flash pumped and absolutely parched! Thought the crux was very difficult to read, but maybe I'm not dialled into Avon weirdness at the moment. Went fine 1stRP.

with Charlie
Chubbard 10/Jun/15 Lead dog

Clean to the crux, 2 Falls then to the top from the good rest after the overhang.

with Ollie
_m.cox_ 31/May/15 Lead O/S

A great route with a rather bold start.

LucasHarazin 01/Oct/14 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 30/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb - tough first roof then good yarding and a rest before the crux. Agree with whoever said harder than CW, safer after the start though.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 30/Oct/12 2nd dog
with Tom
Billg 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S

i snapped off one of the pair of pegs at the top of the initial groove by hand! (can be backed up)

with Bob Brewer
richsmithinbristol 13/Jun/11 Lead β

Will chalked the holds up for me (except for missing the crucial one on the crux!)Still not convinced by main wall climbing.

Justin T 30/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Foot popped off between two crux bolts, utterly battered after spending 2 hours getting that far lowered off bolts. Had been a long day already but felt pretty hard.

billb ?/Aug/09 Lead dog
with Mike S
msoldn 03/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Stunning climbing throughout. Only just managed to get though crux clean, foot holds thin and getting a bit polished. Staying left on second overlap appeared a lot easier.

with Will
Ricky Rocks 02/Apr/09 Lead O/S

brilliant route

Hidden ??/2009 Lead dog
Hidden 31/Oct/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 12/Jun/06 Lead dog
Ally Smith 12/Jun/06 2nd
Kev Little ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/04 Lead O/S
KRB 28/Jul/02 Lead β

Great climb. Good moves through the overhangs

with unseconded
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
pete johnson ?/Jul/99 -
with Steve Findlay
Hidden 06/May/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/96 -
AndySL ??/1996 2nd O/S
with Tim
Hidden ?/Sep/95 Lead O/S
Roget 03/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with jon
rockaddiction ??/1995 Lead O/S
frank ramsay ??/1989 Lead
Hidden 14/Oct/88 Lead
keefe 20/Aug/88 -
Hidden 11/Apr/88 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1988 -
ukb & bmc shark 15/May/87 Lead

rest point

pete johnson ??/1985 -
Mike Owen 16/Oct/84 Lead O/S
with Simon King
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Steve Lewis 12/Nov/83 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
stp 12/Sep/83 Lead rpt

Seconded before in April 82

andy gittins ??/1983 -
duncan ?/Aug/82 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Paul Clarke ??/1981 AltLd
with Andy Dunhill
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