57m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Main Wall's most famous line is a fine climb that follows a subtle left-to-right line of weakness through an intimidating rockscape. A classic. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line.
1) 5a, 25m. From the left-hand side of the ledge move boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs (as for Central Wall). Traverse right, beneath a line of overhangs past a number of pegs to a ledge under a shattered looking wall. Climb up rightwards across the wall to a corner and take this to a peg and nut belay on a slab, 5m below the main line of overhangs.
2) 4b, 32m. Climb up past a peg to the overhang and move over it on good holds. Move rightwards and up a broken rib before heading back leftwards under a line of overhangs until it is possible to gain the base of a wide depression. Climb up the middle of the depression, passing a peg, to an exit left at the very top. © Rockfax

C J S Bonington, G Francis, H H M Rogers 23/Oct/1957

Ticklists

Hard Rock, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Rockfax West Country top 50, Ultimate HVS ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, The Main Wall Mal Challenge, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Bogies Challenge, CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Steve Claw 6 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Got a Red Tricam especially for this and glad I did. Above that it's well protected with an abundance of pegs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got a Red Tricam especially for this and glad I did. Above that it's well protected with an abundance of pegs.
Katsmiff 6 May Show βeta
βeta: The nut and peg belay is no longer as I removed the nut. So now peg and peg belay.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The nut and peg belay is no longer as I removed the nut. So now peg and peg belay.
Euan Todd 1 May Show βeta
βeta: Rock #3 and red tricam make the crux quite well protected.
 
Show beta
βeta: Rock #3 and red tricam make the crux quite well protected.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Dom Goodwin 15 Jul 2nd O/S Brilliant route. Bit polished and scary, but the holds were always there. Not high in technicality, but P2 felt to me technically just as hard as P1.
with Mbowell
Brilliant route. Bit polished and scary, but the holds were always there. Not high in technicality, but P2 felt to me technically just as hard as P1.
with Mbowell
Mbowell 15 Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Jul 2nd O/S
tedswag 5 Jul AltLd O/S Dogged the first pitch on second. Falling at the bold section leading up to the double pegs. Lead the second.
Dogged the first pitch on second. Falling at the bold section leading up to the double pegs. Lead the second.
Dave Cundy 3 Jul AltLd rpt
with Agelos, Nikos Peristeras
with Agelos, Nikos Peristeras
Philoosh 29 Jun Lead O/S
HannahFrancis 28 Jun 2nd
with arose
with arose
arose 28 Jun AltLd
Owen W-G 22 Jun AltLd O/S Glad Rick got P1. Well protected in the end, but a touch insecure and tricky rope work and route and pro finding. Quite a hard pinchy move on the shatteredtowards towards end of P1 I thought but maybe did it wrong. P2 is a 3* glorious in contrast, exposed and sustained VS 4c in its own right. Paused on the initial overlap as promised jug wasn’t immediately apparent.
Glad Rick got P1. Well protected in the end, but a touch insecure and tricky rope work and route and pro finding. Quite a hard pinchy move on the shatteredtowards towards end of P1 I thought but maybe did it wrong. P2 is a 3* glorious in contrast, exposed and sustained VS 4c in its own right. Paused on the initial overlap as promised jug wasn’t immediately apparent.
Steve Claw 6 Jun AltLd
with James
with James
james n 6 Jun AltLd O/S Great route on a sunny summer evening. Lead P2. Nowhere near the amount of polish as expected from previous comments and Nothing that makes it feel sketchy. The climbing felt easy and secure, probably helped by the amount of pegs
Great route on a sunny summer evening. Lead P2. Nowhere near the amount of polish as expected from previous comments and Nothing that makes it feel sketchy. The climbing felt easy and secure, probably helped by the amount of pegs
BenjaminLockie 5 Jun AltLd β I lead the first pitch, Chris lead the second. Awesome Route.
with Chris Shorrock
I lead the first pitch, Chris lead the second. Awesome Route.
with Chris Shorrock
Hidden 5 Jun -
markfairbank 25 May Lead O/S
climbdevon 25 May -
Anne Fairbank 25 May 2nd Backed off leading the 2nd pitch at the overhang - should have reached a bit higher to find the jug
Backed off leading the 2nd pitch at the overhang - should have reached a bit higher to find the jug
r8ck_chick 22 May AltLd Lead pitch 2
with riff156
Lead pitch 2
with riff156
Binder 22 May Lead O/S Pretty good. It is indeed quite run-out in places.
with Edd W
Pretty good. It is indeed quite run-out in places.
with Edd W
riff156 22 May AltLd O/S
j.buckley87 19 May Lead O/S
JoeCoxson 16 May Lead rpt Another lap of a great route, polished as ever. Dan didn't much enjoy the hanging belay...
Another lap of a great route, polished as ever. Dan didn't much enjoy the hanging belay...
Katsmiff 4 May AltLd O/S First climb of the day and a recommendation from a passing climber. Pleasant climbing, mainly on pegs. I did the first pitch which was a diagonal climb.
First climb of the day and a recommendation from a passing climber. Pleasant climbing, mainly on pegs. I did the first pitch which was a diagonal climb.
Rafal Malczyk 4 May AltLd
Rp20 ?May AltLd O/S P1 Just fantastic. Perfectly exciting and delicate. Belay after P1 is solid, if a bit awkward. 3 star Experiance.
with Elliot
P1 Just fantastic. Perfectly exciting and delicate. Belay after P1 is solid, if a bit awkward. 3 star Experiance.
with Elliot
knighty 30 Apr AltLd O/S Epic after work cragging. I led P2. Original start maybe? I feel that P1 was probably 4c, though gaining the overlap was thought provoking with the slight polish. P2 also probably 4c, though HVS definitely justified. Amazing varied climbing throughout with a bit of loose stuff at the top. Tricam placements galore.
Epic after work cragging. I led P2. Original start maybe? I feel that P1 was probably 4c, though gaining the overlap was thought provoking with the slight polish. P2 also probably 4c, though HVS definitely justified. Amazing varied climbing throughout with a bit of loose stuff at the top. Tricam placements galore.
Euan Todd 30 Apr AltLd O/S Led p1, took the original start. Nowhere near 5b though?? Both pitches felt HVS 4c to me (although crux on p1 is polished and delicate, so maybe squeaks 5a?). Not very bold on the day, tricams helped (but this is Avon, you knew that already...). Otherwise adequate small wires and pegs. p2 has more sustained interest, lovely moves in a great position! Overall a really good route, quality line through some pretty serious terrain.
with knighty
Led p1, took the original start. Nowhere near 5b though?? Both pitches felt HVS 4c to me (although crux on p1 is polished and delicate, so maybe squeaks 5a?). Not very bold on the day, tricams helped (but this is Avon, you knew that already...). Otherwise adequate small wires and pegs. p2 has more sustained interest, lovely moves in a great position! Overall a really good route, quality line through some pretty serious terrain.
with knighty
peterbeaumont 16 Feb Lead rpt
Dave Cundy ?Feb Lead rpt
with Arwel Roberts
with Arwel Roberts
George Cox ?? AltLd O/S Led p1
Led p1
jonsey1995 18 Nov, 2018 AltLd
with tom.wp6
with tom.wp6
tom.wp6 18 Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S Nowhere near as spicy or polished as some suggest. The start is a bit runout, but isn't strenuous. Great climbing. Quite technical.
Nowhere near as spicy or polished as some suggest. The start is a bit runout, but isn't strenuous. Great climbing. Quite technical.
Fakey Rocks 15 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S The 5a 1st pitch, not the original start (5b), + went left from the small hole to get around the rib, rather than the line up the groove above the hole, which Avon new topo shows, but might be slightly wrong? before reaching the 1st peg.. Definitley a bit bold no gear until that peg, or you could pop a tricam in the hole, should be good, someone suggests the red size in comments below; i bent a rock 6 or 7 around + into it, seemed half good but possibly crap, + then its the little bold bit, careful what u pull above as you get established there, a good hanging pinch is loose. Several potential holds feel loose, mainly higher up, but found solid alternatives. Not bad climbing, worth repeating, doesn't get 3* for me, maybe next time. I went a bit too slowly taking us 4hrs to both top out. Should have set the 2nd pitch belay up with my 4m dyneema in the first place, threaded a nut through a slot + then decide it would be a pain to retrieve so then spent ages doing that, + also seemed to have placed a rock 1 too well which Jamie had to leave behind on 2nd pitch. A few bits of unnecessary faff but generally just hesitation slowing me down in the main as usual. Rather warm for mid November, 14°.
The 5a 1st pitch, not the original start (5b), + went left from the small hole to get around the rib, rather than the line up the groove above the hole, which Avon new topo shows, but might be slightly wrong? before reaching the 1st peg.. Definitley a bit bold no gear until that peg, or you could pop a tricam in the hole, should be good, someone suggests the red size in comments below; i bent a rock 6 or 7 around + into it, seemed half good but possibly crap, + then its the little bold bit, careful what u pull above as you get established there, a good hanging pinch is loose. Several potential holds feel loose, mainly higher up, but found solid alternatives. Not bad climbing, worth repeating, doesn't get 3* for me, maybe next time. I went a bit too slowly taking us 4hrs to both top out. Should have set the 2nd pitch belay up with my 4m dyneema in the first place, threaded a nut through a slot + then decide it would be a pain to retrieve so then spent ages doing that, + also seemed to have placed a rock 1 too well which Jamie had to leave behind on 2nd pitch. A few bits of unnecessary faff but generally just hesitation slowing me down in the main as usual. Rather warm for mid November, 14°.
disturbed_one51 2 Oct, 2018 Lead Lead both pitches as Nicky backed off the overhang on pitch 2.
Lead both pitches as Nicky backed off the overhang on pitch 2.
Jonathan Hall 24 Sep, 2018 AltLd Lead P1
with Ali Mortazavi, Hoyes
Lead P1
with Ali Mortazavi, Hoyes
Ali Mortazavi 24 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
WillCrabtree 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S What a great route! Led pitch one, polished and run out, lots of pegs on the first half then a bit airy to the belay. Quite a few loose holds but really enjoyable, best route in the gorge so far. Happy with the lead!
with fammer
What a great route! Led pitch one, polished and run out, lots of pegs on the first half then a bit airy to the belay. Quite a few loose holds but really enjoyable, best route in the gorge so far. Happy with the lead!
with fammer
fammer 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Good lead from will on the first pitch, I led the second. Both pitches really great, spicy runouts all the way
Good lead from will on the first pitch, I led the second. Both pitches really great, spicy runouts all the way
Hidden 1 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Sep, 2018 AltLd
NebHappyrock 31 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Couldn't get my head in gear until I got my own gear in place. Once I got into it, P1 was stellar.
with Sam
Couldn't get my head in gear until I got my own gear in place. Once I got into it, P1 was stellar.
with Sam
Martyv 11 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S great to have finally done this, probably the hardest climb for me this century! really needed to think about each move, Phil led 2nd pitch. A worthy Top 50 SW climb, thanks Chris Bonnington!
with Phil Knight
great to have finally done this, probably the hardest climb for me this century! really needed to think about each move, Phil led 2nd pitch. A worthy Top 50 SW climb, thanks Chris Bonnington!
with Phil Knight
Harry Padley 8 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Georgie25 22 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Keith Swainson 22 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
grp 5 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Dan0Me 5 Jul, 2018 AltLd rpt
with Geoff P
with Geoff P
Matt Clifton 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd rpt
Super-Afro 19 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
aiyer 14 Jun, 2018 2nd
badgerjockey 14 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Really enjoyed this, some lovely in-balance traversing, odd bits of spice and a great move on the second pitch. The polish doesn't affect the climbing apart from maybe the first move. Not half as runout as I was led to believe. There are good red tricam and small nut placements in the first 6m and pegs everywhere afterwards. Climb with care on P2 because there are a few dodgy holds. The line on P2 is vague which, whilst confusing, does make it feel a bit like you're really forging your own path up the thing, which is cool....
with aiyer
Really enjoyed this, some lovely in-balance traversing, odd bits of spice and a great move on the second pitch. The polish doesn't affect the climbing apart from maybe the first move. Not half as runout as I was led to believe. There are good red tricam and small nut placements in the first 6m and pegs everywhere afterwards. Climb with care on P2 because there are a few dodgy holds. The line on P2 is vague which, whilst confusing, does make it feel a bit like you're really forging your own path up the thing, which is cool....
with aiyer
reubenhf 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S I led first. Was bricking it the whole pitch to be quite honest! Great climb though.
with Zakko
I led first. Was bricking it the whole pitch to be quite honest! Great climb though.
with Zakko
Zakko 14 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
aiyer 12 Jun, 2018 Lead β What's with all the pegs?
What's with all the pegs?
JoeCoxson 12 Jun, 2018 2nd rpt Third time's a charm
with aiyer
Third time's a charm
with aiyer
myrddinmuse 8 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S First time climbing with Faye, a fun climb in humid conditions! You know you're back on route when the holds are polished again. Mostly spent the climb off route by about half a metre. Enjoyed the crux of P1 but it was the spectacular positions of P2 that made it for me.
with faye
First time climbing with Faye, a fun climb in humid conditions! You know you're back on route when the holds are polished again. Mostly spent the climb off route by about half a metre. Enjoyed the crux of P1 but it was the spectacular positions of P2 that made it for me.
with faye
faye 8 Jun, 2018 2nd
Fergus Moore 17 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P2
with rosso
Lead P2
with rosso
rosso 17 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
Misha 12 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Finally got round to doing this Hard Rock tick, though had previously done the direct start as part of The Preter. I led P1 and Tim P2. Thought it wasn’t that great really, lots of better routes in Avon.
Finally got round to doing this Hard Rock tick, though had previously done the direct start as part of The Preter. I led P1 and Tim P2. Thought it wasn’t that great really, lots of better routes in Avon.
LukePrime85 4 May, 2018 2nd O/S
with melv
with melv
melv 4 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
foobar123 19 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S Brilliant route! The first pitch is classic Avon climbing with the usual mix of hidden holds, runouts, and a plethora of suspect bolts. I led p2, which goes across some pretty wild territory for the grade. Definitely more than 4b though, more like high 4c / low 5a in places.
Brilliant route! The first pitch is classic Avon climbing with the usual mix of hidden holds, runouts, and a plethora of suspect bolts. I led p2, which goes across some pretty wild territory for the grade. Definitely more than 4b though, more like high 4c / low 5a in places.
Hidden 12 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
Dino Dave 31 Jan, 2018 2nd O/S First time climbing for a while. Lead was beyond me but super effort from Jim... Finished in the dark to top off a cold, adventurous afternoon.
First time climbing for a while. Lead was beyond me but super effort from Jim... Finished in the dark to top off a cold, adventurous afternoon.
Jim blackford 31 Jan, 2018 Lead β There cant be a route more 'avon' than this - a variety of thoughts from is this loose to wheres the gear accompany a variety of moves. Took far too long on it. Beta because dave lead up to the overhang on the second pitch, then retreated an i lead through - bomber cams.
There cant be a route more 'avon' than this - a variety of thoughts from is this loose to wheres the gear accompany a variety of moves. Took far too long on it. Beta because dave lead up to the overhang on the second pitch, then retreated an i lead through - bomber cams.
Harry Martin ??, 2018 -
with new route
with new route
Matt Smith 4 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S Amazing route that goes through some pretty intimidating terrain. I lead P1 and found it quite bold in some places. Then shivered on belay slab for a while and my seized up legs found seconding P2 quite tough.
with Jack Fellows, Andy Schlereth
Amazing route that goes through some pretty intimidating terrain. I lead P1 and found it quite bold in some places. Then shivered on belay slab for a while and my seized up legs found seconding P2 quite tough.
with Jack Fellows, Andy Schlereth
Hidden 4 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
haydng 16 Oct, 2017 Lead rpt Fun and thoughtful. Difficult to protect the move on P1 (yellow totem in peg-scarred pocket). P2 much easier if you know where the jug is (tip: straight above shothole on the left!). Unfortunately a fair bit of loose and some dodgy pegs.
with MattHume
Fun and thoughtful. Difficult to protect the move on P1 (yellow totem in peg-scarred pocket). P2 much easier if you know where the jug is (tip: straight above shothole on the left!). Unfortunately a fair bit of loose and some dodgy pegs.
with MattHume
Oscar Popels 10 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S First pitch felt very bold for HVS. Led P2 as it got dark. I ran out of quickdraws towards the top of the pitch and ended up using cows tailed hex slings with screwgates on them! lovely route though but I'm happy I didn't lead P1
First pitch felt very bold for HVS. Led P2 as it got dark. I ran out of quickdraws towards the top of the pitch and ended up using cows tailed hex slings with screwgates on them! lovely route though but I'm happy I didn't lead P1
Si 7 Oct, 2017 AltLd I took P.2
I took P.2
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 7 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Another route I'd wanted to do for years. Again, very Avon - long run outs and subtle movements. There isn't many conventional 'pull down' holds that's for sure!
with Si
Another route I'd wanted to do for years. Again, very Avon - long run outs and subtle movements. There isn't many conventional 'pull down' holds that's for sure!
with Si
TGHB 3 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p2. We decided to climb at night by light of headtorch. Quite polished, but a lovely climb nonetheless. Apparently there is a nice jug to get over the roof with but I couldn't find it and failed up instead.
Led p2. We decided to climb at night by light of headtorch. Quite polished, but a lovely climb nonetheless. Apparently there is a nice jug to get over the roof with but I couldn't find it and failed up instead.
JoeCoxson 3 Oct, 2017 AltLd rpt Awesome way to spend the evening, despite the lack of light. Full headtorch ascent, more like this to come
with TGHB
Awesome way to spend the evening, despite the lack of light. Full headtorch ascent, more like this to come
with TGHB
rachelpearce01 24 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
George_Surf 24 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S The start is mega bold to the first peg and delicate, slippery climbing. Traverse ok, bit of rope drag off the pegs. Shattered rock area isn't totally stable. A bit of an eerie pitch. Rachel led p2 but couldn't reach the jug, belayed under the roof. I took p3, it felt almost as technical as p1, at least 4c with runout and not obvious route finding. Finished too far left on the chossy top out, belayed off the rickety fence. Didn't feel 3* too loose too bold. A good line though and some of the climbing is involving
The start is mega bold to the first peg and delicate, slippery climbing. Traverse ok, bit of rope drag off the pegs. Shattered rock area isn't totally stable. A bit of an eerie pitch. Rachel led p2 but couldn't reach the jug, belayed under the roof. I took p3, it felt almost as technical as p1, at least 4c with runout and not obvious route finding. Finished too far left on the chossy top out, belayed off the rickety fence. Didn't feel 3* too loose too bold. A good line though and some of the climbing is involving
Hidden 18 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 31 Aug, 2017 2nd rpt
crag_monster 31 Aug, 2017 Lead
Simon Allcock 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S i took p1. scary start, then great line through unlikely territory
with Wilki
i took p1. scary start, then great line through unlikely territory
with Wilki
danieleaston 14 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Hardly worth logging, not brave enough for the start (by quite a distance)
Hardly worth logging, not brave enough for the start (by quite a distance)
Hidden 6 Jul, 2017 Lead
Hidden 3 Jul, 2017 2nd
Jimbob64 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead Pitch 1
with Jimson
Lead Pitch 1
with Jimson
davidibex 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd
SJPowderham1 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Ed Hastings 12 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Si Bennett
with Si Bennett
superturbo 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Martin Bagshaw 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Meh
Meh
steve-grigg 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Lottie Green 3 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S What an incredible route! Fantastic climbing all the way, especially the end of P1. Creative and varied. Hidden high jug on P2 overhang was lush too.
What an incredible route! Fantastic climbing all the way, especially the end of P1. Creative and varied. Hidden high jug on P2 overhang was lush too.
Matt Harle 1 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
alexm198 1 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P2. Interesting route which finds an ingenious path through some rather steep terrain. The polish is quite impressive on the crux of P1, but elsewhere it's not too bad. Couldn't find promised 'good holds' on the P2 roof, pulled through on some smaller crimps. Generally thought P2 was undergraded at 4b, with sections of climbing closer to 5a (?) but I was likely a bit off-route.
Led P2. Interesting route which finds an ingenious path through some rather steep terrain. The polish is quite impressive on the crux of P1, but elsewhere it's not too bad. Couldn't find promised 'good holds' on the P2 roof, pulled through on some smaller crimps. Generally thought P2 was undergraded at 4b, with sections of climbing closer to 5a (?) but I was likely a bit off-route.
ajsburns 30 May, 2017 AltLd dog Chris led p1, I fell on overhang on lead in p2
with Chris
Chris led p1, I fell on overhang on lead in p2
with Chris
masa-alpin 12 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Typical Avon-style climbing? I lead P1, and Saya did P2. The crux of P1 is (hard) 5b for shorties, as I found. The crux of P2 was felt harder than 4b (more like 5a?).
with Saya M
Typical Avon-style climbing? I lead P1, and Saya did P2. The crux of P1 is (hard) 5b for shorties, as I found. The crux of P2 was felt harder than 4b (more like 5a?).
with Saya M
Ross Davidson 6 May, 2017 Lead rpt
mcrispin 4 May, 2017 - 1st pitch only
1st pitch only
julesmckim 31 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S Great fun. Crux on first pitch really insecure but not 100% sure we were on route. Description didn't match what was infront of us. Top pitch just delightful: interesting, never too hard and good gear
with Rob Smart
Great fun. Crux on first pitch really insecure but not 100% sure we were on route. Description didn't match what was infront of us. Top pitch just delightful: interesting, never too hard and good gear
with Rob Smart
Green_t 16 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Lovely climb, first properly sunny day spent in the gorge this year
Lovely climb, first properly sunny day spent in the gorge this year
Bristol_Quornstar 16 Mar, 2017 2nd rpt
with Green_t
with Green_t
JoeCoxson 24 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S Excellent line and an easy 'hard rock' tick. Hazel stunned the passing motorists with her excellent work on the second pitch.
Excellent line and an easy 'hard rock' tick. Hazel stunned the passing motorists with her excellent work on the second pitch.
Hazel Morgan 24 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S Really fun, quite polished and not as easy as it looked from the ground... couldn't reach the promised 'good holds' on 2nd pitch overhang!
Really fun, quite polished and not as easy as it looked from the ground... couldn't reach the promised 'good holds' on 2nd pitch overhang!
Tim_C7 18 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S Great first pitch, very cool.
with Ed Redfearn
Great first pitch, very cool.
with Ed Redfearn
EdRedfearn 18 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S Did 2nd pitch. First is harder.
Did 2nd pitch. First is harder.
Angrypenguin 18 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p1. Steady climb but gear spaced in places. Polish didn't seem to bother me. First proper nice day of the year.
with Dan Akam
Led p1. Steady climb but gear spaced in places. Polish didn't seem to bother me. First proper nice day of the year.
with Dan Akam
Small and weak 4 Feb, 2017 AltLd
Whorlhill 4 Feb, 2017 AltLd
leobold 1 Feb, 2017 -
leobold 1 Feb, 2017 -
Bristol_Quornstar 20 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S Worth every second. Took time to work out where the jug was on the overhang - then laughed hard at myself!
with George 'red wine' Wood
Worth every second. Took time to work out where the jug was on the overhang - then laughed hard at myself!
with George 'red wine' Wood
SimonWooden 14 Jan, 2017 AltLd Cold and wet. I led first pitch, Mark led second pitch in heavy rain.
with Mark Lewis
Cold and wet. I led first pitch, Mark led second pitch in heavy rain.
with Mark Lewis
Hidden 1 Jan, 2017 Lead
james-carey ??, 2017 -
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
manwithacam 26 Nov, 2016 AltLd quite an adventure. Good to do this classic route
with Joris
quite an adventure. Good to do this classic route
with Joris
Joris.Roulleau 26 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S Led second pitch. Easy but route finding and reading the moves takes some getting used to the rock. Glad there are some recent-ish pegs on that route.
Led second pitch. Easy but route finding and reading the moves takes some getting used to the rock. Glad there are some recent-ish pegs on that route.
Hidden 6 Nov, 2016 Lead rpt
JendeHoxar 24 Oct, 2016 AltLd Headed for Bristol from pembroke to avoid the rain. Ended up climbing in the rain anyway.
with Flavio
Headed for Bristol from pembroke to avoid the rain. Ended up climbing in the rain anyway.
with Flavio
Flavio 24 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
gjd 4 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S p1. Never seen so many pegs! But would be very bold without them.
with Brian H
p1. Never seen so many pegs! But would be very bold without them.
with Brian H
Hidden 4 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Jonathan Richardson 24 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
leland stamper 23 Sep, 2016 2nd rpt Still worth 3 stars
with BU6330
Still worth 3 stars
with BU6330
JakeBest 23 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Gear protecting the traverse before the 3rd(?) belay blew as I was setting up the anchor leaving my second a little exposed.
with Christian
Gear protecting the traverse before the 3rd(?) belay blew as I was setting up the anchor leaving my second a little exposed.
with Christian
Hidden ?Sep, 2016 2nd
Hidden 26 Aug, 2016 -
paul79 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2016 2nd dog
Luke90 8 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
WilliamRupp 21 Jul, 2016 2nd
jsmcfarland 21 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Fantastic climb! P1 felt Gogarth-esque in it's wandering over half the crag. Brilliant climbing, though bold in places (especially start). I got lost after the piton on P2 as I hadn't read the description and ended up basically soloing straight up the band of choss and into the rosebush hedge. Tore my legs to shreds and surprised a family having a picnic but survived the experience. I won't forget this one in a hurry!
Fantastic climb! P1 felt Gogarth-esque in it's wandering over half the crag. Brilliant climbing, though bold in places (especially start). I got lost after the piton on P2 as I hadn't read the description and ended up basically soloing straight up the band of choss and into the rosebush hedge. Tore my legs to shreds and surprised a family having a picnic but survived the experience. I won't forget this one in a hurry!
derico 20 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Jul, 2016 2nd
mossrug 4 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Rob
with Rob
markfromstoke 21 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with luke43
with luke43
luke43 21 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
PeteMc 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Slick 16 May, 2016 AltLd Led p2.
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Led p2.
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Mike Hood 26 Apr, 2016 Lead
Hidden 24 Apr, 2016 AltLd
Bob M 13 Apr, 2016 AltLd Led pitch 1. Superb. Brilliant route finding to trace the easiest line up an impressive crag, and no problems with polish as most footholds are very positive. Serious start - no gear for about 20 ft and then a crucial traverse past some ancient rusty pegs (which Norman tested with a short pendulum after slipping off). Easier and better protected for the rest of the route.
Led pitch 1. Superb. Brilliant route finding to trace the easiest line up an impressive crag, and no problems with polish as most footholds are very positive. Serious start - no gear for about 20 ft and then a crucial traverse past some ancient rusty pegs (which Norman tested with a short pendulum after slipping off). Easier and better protected for the rest of the route.
Norman_P_W 13 Apr, 2016 AltLd
with Bob M
with Bob M
Hidden 10 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
cdpuk 10 Apr, 2016 Lead Took P1 lead after Alex wasn't feeling it. Tricky start, wouldn't want to tumble on to ledges. Many pegs, most of which can be backed up. Alex fell on to and broke the peg below the roof on P2. Fortunately the cam out left held, but still a nasty tumble ending in a 4m drop upside down. Decided to bail after that. The screwgate we left behind is up for grabs.
Took P1 lead after Alex wasn't feeling it. Tricky start, wouldn't want to tumble on to ledges. Many pegs, most of which can be backed up. Alex fell on to and broke the peg below the roof on P2. Fortunately the cam out left held, but still a nasty tumble ending in a 4m drop upside down. Decided to bail after that. The screwgate we left behind is up for grabs.
Moritz L 23 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Led second pitch, long. Felt harder than 4b, number of committing moves across bulges. Good fun though and great route
with Dan0Me
Led second pitch, long. Felt harder than 4b, number of committing moves across bulges. Good fun though and great route
with Dan0Me
Dan0Me 23 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
TimCul 12 Mar, 2016 AltLd
onlyfoddington 12 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Took a few false starts to get to the first peg, not actually so bad in the end, but need to commit to the move to realise it. Otherwise not particularly tricky but continually sustained interest right to the top. Lead pitch 1. Amazingly first climb with Tim.
with TimCul
Took a few false starts to get to the first peg, not actually so bad in the end, but need to commit to the move to realise it. Otherwise not particularly tricky but continually sustained interest right to the top. Lead pitch 1. Amazingly first climb with Tim.
with TimCul
WillAndrew 5 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Led p1, found the poorly protected start pretty scary/polished, wouldn't want to fall off.. The rest of the climb is superb but a bit loose in places
Led p1, found the poorly protected start pretty scary/polished, wouldn't want to fall off.. The rest of the climb is superb but a bit loose in places
ali.scott 5 Mar, 2016 AltLd Started up the first corner and got a bit psyched out by the bad fall potential. Downclimbed and eventually flopped onto the ledge; was pretty lucky not to bounce off. Instead led second pitch, which was far more pleasant, though more like 4c. Quite a serious climb.
Started up the first corner and got a bit psyched out by the bad fall potential. Downclimbed and eventually flopped onto the ledge; was pretty lucky not to bounce off. Instead led second pitch, which was far more pleasant, though more like 4c. Quite a serious climb.
Dohnny_Jawes 16 Jan, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 16 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2016 Lead
Mike Roger ??, 2016 Lead
Tim Sparrow ??, 2016 -
Hidden 28 Dec, 2015 2nd dnf
Circus 28 Dec, 2015 Lead dnf Backed off the precarious start for a second time. Don't like that ledge :(
with Bobb
Backed off the precarious start for a second time. Don't like that ledge :(
with Bobb
Hidden 31 Oct, 2015 AltLd rpt
Hidden 31 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Si Carter 31 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Incredible weather for Halloween and perfect conditions. Deserves its stars and significance.
with Colin Tiley
Incredible weather for Halloween and perfect conditions. Deserves its stars and significance.
with Colin Tiley
Ollie B 31 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
with A.Rosier
with A.Rosier
cameron_hall 25 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S Was a bit unsettled by the suggested start of the first pitch and took the 'Original Start' instead. Still pretty exciting moves before you get your first gear in!
with Tom Barrett
Was a bit unsettled by the suggested start of the first pitch and took the 'Original Start' instead. Still pretty exciting moves before you get your first gear in!
with Tom Barrett
will_benfold 25 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Led P1. Start was a little spicy, and moving up after the traverse felt a little sktechy and runout, but otherwise fine. So many pegs!
with Lucy Smith
Led P1. Start was a little spicy, and moving up after the traverse felt a little sktechy and runout, but otherwise fine. So many pegs!
with Lucy Smith
Hidden 25 Oct, 2015 AltLd
Jessbroadhurst 7 Oct, 2015 2nd
andycash 27 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Daryl nayler
with Daryl nayler
Steve Bartle 26 Sep, 2015 2nd This is so 'Avon'. Had a slight wobble on the traverse on p1 where I felt like I could come off, but stepped to better feet and was ok. The jug on the roof of p2 wasn't too hare to reach once my feet were high enough. P2 was a juggy joy, but with enough footwork needed to keep it interesting
with Kevin V-C
This is so 'Avon'. Had a slight wobble on the traverse on p1 where I felt like I could come off, but stepped to better feet and was ok. The jug on the roof of p2 wasn't too hare to reach once my feet were high enough. P2 was a juggy joy, but with enough footwork needed to keep it interesting
with Kevin V-C
Hidden 12 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
widdlestickmcpoos 10 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Emily 4 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S Quite fun! Liked the abundance of pinchy holds, especially on the first pitch. No shortage of good feet. Not convinced the second pitch was technically easier than the first, especially as I couldn't reach the jug from below the bulge and had to pull through on smaller holds/the edge of the jug before bumping onto it properly.
Quite fun! Liked the abundance of pinchy holds, especially on the first pitch. No shortage of good feet. Not convinced the second pitch was technically easier than the first, especially as I couldn't reach the jug from below the bulge and had to pull through on smaller holds/the edge of the jug before bumping onto it properly.
Nick Russell 4 Aug, 2015 Lead rpt Still a good route! Excellent conditions: good friction even on the polished bits. Bold to start - take some tricams.
with Emily
Still a good route! Excellent conditions: good friction even on the polished bits. Bold to start - take some tricams.
with Emily
steve_gibbs 22 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt
with Pauline Picchio
with Pauline Picchio
Hidden 3 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2015 Lead
Chris Sansum 21 Jun, 2015 AltLd rpt Ewan P1, Chris P2.
with Ewan Whitmey
Ewan P1, Chris P2.
with Ewan Whitmey
Chris_barr 21 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S P2
with Mike
P2
with Mike
steve_gibbs 18 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Jamie MacLeod
with Jamie MacLeod
jammy4536 18 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Totally sick route! The polish isn't as bad as made out to be, and is bad but tolerable. the second pitch is what really makes the climb. going on lower left established route is a fantastic climb.
Totally sick route! The polish isn't as bad as made out to be, and is bad but tolerable. the second pitch is what really makes the climb. going on lower left established route is a fantastic climb.
Slick 12 May, 2015 AltLd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
with Kevin Vans-Colina
tcn_2002 10 May, 2015 Lead
Hidden 10 May, 2015 2nd
wilkinscl 2 May, 2015 2nd
with Ned
with Ned
Dave Rumney ?May, 2015 AltLd not quite as polished as I expected
with Tanya Milner
not quite as polished as I expected
with Tanya Milner
Legs 28 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Sam took p1. Very polished at committing. I got p2. Which was great fun going over the bulge and finding the hidden jug! Messed up our rope work a bit so did it in three pitches. Great route.
Sam took p1. Very polished at committing. I got p2. Which was great fun going over the bulge and finding the hidden jug! Messed up our rope work a bit so did it in three pitches. Great route.
sheelba 28 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Scary polished start, I think a mid sized tricam might protect it. Messed up ropework on the traverse so belayed straight after it and ended up doing it in 3 pitches.
with Max
Scary polished start, I think a mid sized tricam might protect it. Messed up ropework on the traverse so belayed straight after it and ended up doing it in 3 pitches.
with Max
Hidden 22 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
alastairbegley 22 Apr, 2015 AltLd RP Two years ago I failed to commit to the start, this time with some cunning I got a nut in a pocket which gave some protection. First pitch was great but serious, straightforward balancey climbing after the initial hard sequence. Second pitch was enjoyable, found the hidden jug on my first attempt at the overhang.
with twem
Two years ago I failed to commit to the start, this time with some cunning I got a nut in a pocket which gave some protection. First pitch was great but serious, straightforward balancey climbing after the initial hard sequence. Second pitch was enjoyable, found the hidden jug on my first attempt at the overhang.
with twem
malina 18 Apr, 2015 2nd
Hidden 6 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Richardlake 5 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S I would agree with the others climbers who have commented on the difficulty of the lower pitch. The crux is 5b and not brilliantly protected so feels more like E1. The rest of the first pitch is amazing but requires careful climbing. Balance-y stuff. Second pitch has more straightforward climbing but it is not 4b. The jug over the over-hang is not such a long reach if you use the two smaller hand holds to pull up first. The route has very little polish in comparison to other Avon routes (Simian, Jasper). Overall a brilliant climb, the best I have done in the gorge so far...
I would agree with the others climbers who have commented on the difficulty of the lower pitch. The crux is 5b and not brilliantly protected so feels more like E1. The rest of the first pitch is amazing but requires careful climbing. Balance-y stuff. Second pitch has more straightforward climbing but it is not 4b. The jug over the over-hang is not such a long reach if you use the two smaller hand holds to pull up first. The route has very little polish in comparison to other Avon routes (Simian, Jasper). Overall a brilliant climb, the best I have done in the gorge so far...
will_lake 5 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 2015 -
jamieevans ??, 2015 -
Stuart William 21 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S So, so good; intricate and involved climbing and route finding throughout and it has a fairly serious air about it. Polish doesn't seem to have much effect on the climbing. Me P1, Martin P2.
with Martin
So, so good; intricate and involved climbing and route finding throughout and it has a fairly serious air about it. Polish doesn't seem to have much effect on the climbing. Me P1, Martin P2.
with Martin
Duncan Campbell 31 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Led p2. Defo one of the trickiest HVS' I've done in a while.
Led p2. Defo one of the trickiest HVS' I've done in a while.
ian d f 28 Aug, 2014 AltLd rpt
with Pete H
with Pete H
Hidden 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
musgravet 24 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Olly had P1, I had P2
with Olly P
Olly had P1, I had P2
with Olly P
Dean177 29 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Ana_B
with Ana_B
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
youwillfindjimbo 14 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
with dan ely
with dan ely
cheeky 10 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
mark4344 10 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Pitch 1 steep and committing.gear spaced but moves ok when you commit. polish ok. pitch 2 straight forward when you find the handhold at bullge.
with Matt Payne
Pitch 1 steep and committing.gear spaced but moves ok when you commit. polish ok. pitch 2 straight forward when you find the handhold at bullge.
with Matt Payne
miriamclaire 26 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
Slick 18 Jun, 2014 AltLd Led P1. Much easier than 4 years ago!
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Led P1. Much easier than 4 years ago!
with Kevin Vans-Colina
matt_claydon 16 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Harder than expected, route finding a bit tricky in places despite the trail of polish and a few committing moves. Gear generally good though. Great fun once you've worked the moves out. Started at 1730 and finished in the dark, despite being 4 days from midsummer!
Harder than expected, route finding a bit tricky in places despite the trail of polish and a few committing moves. Gear generally good though. Great fun once you've worked the moves out. Started at 1730 and finished in the dark, despite being 4 days from midsummer!
corinrathbone 16 Jun, 2014 2nd rpt
LucasHarazin 9 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
corinrathbone 9 Jun, 2014 2nd dnf
with Łukasz Harazin
with Łukasz Harazin
Kirill 7 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1. Perhaps a bit serious for HVS.
with cem
Led P1. Perhaps a bit serious for HVS.
with cem
cem 7 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Led p2, which is given 4c in the definitive guidebook. The route as a whole is no pushover.
with Kirill
Led p2, which is given 4c in the definitive guidebook. The route as a whole is no pushover.
with Kirill
Andrew Sloan 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S A couple of awkward moves on first pitch. Second pitch is a sandbag for 4b. I'd give the route 2 stars max.
with Tim
A couple of awkward moves on first pitch. Second pitch is a sandbag for 4b. I'd give the route 2 stars max.
with Tim
Hidden 18 May, 2014 AltLd
felixizzy 20 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
TB30 16 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S With Alex Skelton, in the evening chasing the sun up the rock
With Alex Skelton, in the evening chasing the sun up the rock
richsmithinbristol 15 Apr, 2014 Lead rpt Superb climbing.
Superb climbing.
Hidden 15 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
shoulders 15 Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S
Luxulyan 23 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
with Tom Murrell
with Tom Murrell
Hidden 16 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
David Clover ?Jan, 2014 AltLd
with hutchay
with hutchay
David Clover ?Jan, 2014 AltLd
with hutchay
with hutchay
hutchay ?Jan, 2014 AltLd
David Clover ?Jan, 2014 AltLd
with hutchay
with hutchay
David Clover ?Jan, 2014 AltLd
with hutchay
with hutchay
David Clover ?Jan, 2014 AltLd
with hutchay
with hutchay
James Jackson ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
hutchay ??, 2014 AltLd O/S
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Mayaculpa 7 Nov, 2013 2nd dog Direct Start and Direct Finish. Slipped off twice on the overhang, couldnt find the jug, so traversed left, up, and back right. The direct finish is probably more like E1 5b specially the traverse out right on tiny holds.
Direct Start and Direct Finish. Slipped off twice on the overhang, couldnt find the jug, so traversed left, up, and back right. The direct finish is probably more like E1 5b specially the traverse out right on tiny holds.
pheotleyr 7 Nov, 2013 Lead RP Direct Start and Direct Finish. Took a 4m fall from the direct start shortly after I went the wrong direction on the crux. Safe with a cluster of good gear below. Did it clean afterwards. Polish isn't too bad; thought this was better than the "usual" traverse start. The direct finish is really nice as well, but probably more like E1 5b - there's a good peg and another good peg and some OK microwires a meter or so below, and then you have to traverse out right on tiny holds (probably 5b) and then boldly climb up for another meter (~5a) to reach the parent route. A fall should be quite unproblematic though.
Direct Start and Direct Finish. Took a 4m fall from the direct start shortly after I went the wrong direction on the crux. Safe with a cluster of good gear below. Did it clean afterwards. Polish isn't too bad; thought this was better than the "usual" traverse start. The direct finish is really nice as well, but probably more like E1 5b - there's a good peg and another good peg and some OK microwires a meter or so below, and then you have to traverse out right on tiny holds (probably 5b) and then boldly climb up for another meter (~5a) to reach the parent route. A fall should be quite unproblematic though.
therat 19 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead P1
Lead P1
Matt_L_Robinson 19 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S 1st pitch
1st pitch
Hidden 19 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
pheotleyr 17 Oct, 2013 AltLd RP Led pitch 1, the start of which was less scary than I expected it to be after seconding half a year ago.
with Toby
Led pitch 1, the start of which was less scary than I expected it to be after seconding half a year ago.
with Toby
tobydunford 17 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Peter Holy
with Peter Holy
tomosb 5 Oct, 2013 -
with Darren Thompson
with Darren Thompson
Hidden 25 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
monsteratt 8 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Ld P1 - thought provoking stuff
with Dan Fairbank
Ld P1 - thought provoking stuff
with Dan Fairbank
Hidden 8 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
zcsharp 27 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
with Chris Stafford
with Chris Stafford
stafford101 26 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S A thin style of climbing, even by gorge standards - P1 polished and technical. Attempted to lead P2 but could not find the hidden jug - ended up cutting loose on poor holds trying to locate the damn thing. Turns out it's there, but is a very long reach and hard 4c move to get to. Rest of P2 excellent.
with zcsharp
A thin style of climbing, even by gorge standards - P1 polished and technical. Attempted to lead P2 but could not find the hidden jug - ended up cutting loose on poor holds trying to locate the damn thing. Turns out it's there, but is a very long reach and hard 4c move to get to. Rest of P2 excellent.
with zcsharp
Dave Mahon 18 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S I did P1. Absorbing climbing all the way. Every metre took a lot of thought. Lots of pegs, take lots of quickdraws. P2 was no pushover either. The Rockfax mentions good holds over the initial overhang but it was committing and harder than 4b. Well done Brian!
with Brian Mead
I did P1. Absorbing climbing all the way. Every metre took a lot of thought. Lots of pegs, take lots of quickdraws. P2 was no pushover either. The Rockfax mentions good holds over the initial overhang but it was committing and harder than 4b. Well done Brian!
with Brian Mead
Graham Westbrook 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
mattkemp70 ?Aug, 2013 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
Alex Winter 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Climbed to rescue someone's jammed ropes. Led first pitch. Both climbed quickly so we could get out of the sun.
with jiles
Climbed to rescue someone's jammed ropes. Led first pitch. Both climbed quickly so we could get out of the sun.
with jiles
jiles 20 Jul, 2013 AltLd
James Smith 19 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S not sure this was any better than a lot of the 1 and 2 starred hvs's in the gorge. some loose rock on pitch 1 and suffers badly from polish. still gets a couple stars but not sure 3.
with pete
not sure this was any better than a lot of the 1 and 2 starred hvs's in the gorge. some loose rock on pitch 1 and suffers badly from polish. still gets a couple stars but not sure 3.
with pete
halfwaythere 19 Jun, 2013 AltLd dog
with James
with James
localboy 4 Jun, 2013 2nd β Started up the direct/original start to recover gear and annoyingly aided the traverse, again.
Started up the direct/original start to recover gear and annoyingly aided the traverse, again.
alastairbegley 3 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf Freaked out due to lack of gear on the initial corner, tried to downclimb, fell off & bounced down a series of ledges
Freaked out due to lack of gear on the initial corner, tried to downclimb, fell off & bounced down a series of ledges
Poco Loco 3 Jun, 2013 2nd
bryan61 19 May, 2013 AltLd rpt
with berny
with berny
Dibdawg 18 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with Richard Snow
with Richard Snow
tim newton 26 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
Cheese Monkey 26 Apr, 2013 AltLd rpt Excellent again, lead p2
Excellent again, lead p2
georgeevans88 23 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
with Martin
with Martin
SJS 20 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 20 Apr, 2013 AltLd rpt I led the second pitch for the first time. I think I've finally learnt where the jug is above the roof!
with SJS
I led the second pitch for the first time. I think I've finally learnt where the jug is above the roof!
with SJS
Hidden 14 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
Dale ?Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S I had the first pitch the start is pretty run out but no where near as polished as I expected. Tim had second pitch. Brilliant route another hard rock tick done
with Tim
I had the first pitch the start is pretty run out but no where near as polished as I expected. Tim had second pitch. Brilliant route another hard rock tick done
with Tim
Jevans ?Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
Chris Sansum 2 Mar, 2013 AltLd rpt Rich P1, Chris P2.
with Richard Lade
Rich P1, Chris P2.
with Richard Lade
Cheese Monkey 19 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S QRST - 4506
QRST - 4506
pheotleyr 19 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Fantastic, every single meter is good climbing! Led 2nd pitch which is not 4b as claimed in the description on UKC, but rather a solid 4c.
Fantastic, every single meter is good climbing! Led 2nd pitch which is not 4b as claimed in the description on UKC, but rather a solid 4c.
sparkass 17 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
stuart34 17 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S p2, bottled p1
p2, bottled p1
Hidden 11 Jan, 2013 AltLd
jcw ??, 2013 -
Ali D ??, 2013 Lead O/S
duncan 13 Oct, 2012 AltLd rpt By headtorch, as part of all the SW Hard Rock Routes IAD.
By headtorch, as part of all the SW Hard Rock Routes IAD.
just one more 10 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S overrated
with john smith
overrated
with john smith
Hidden 29 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
goddamm7 16 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
Andy Fielding 16 Sep, 2012 Lead
konanm 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd dog First time climbing at the gorge. Justin led p1 (original start) and I led p2. First pitch was stressful at the start - local climbers advised us to not trust in situ pegs (recent stat - apparently 50% are dodgy??!?!), Justin couldn't find any protection for the first 4 metres and I was belaying from a small grassy ledge which Justin would have fallen past had he taken a lob. Made it through unscathed and pitch two was beautiful climbing - the enormous jug at the first overhang (which took me ages to locate!), exciting and exposed traverses followed by an easy-ish finish up the centre of the depression.
First time climbing at the gorge. Justin led p1 (original start) and I led p2. First pitch was stressful at the start - local climbers advised us to not trust in situ pegs (recent stat - apparently 50% are dodgy??!?!), Justin couldn't find any protection for the first 4 metres and I was belaying from a small grassy ledge which Justin would have fallen past had he taken a lob. Made it through unscathed and pitch two was beautiful climbing - the enormous jug at the first overhang (which took me ages to locate!), exciting and exposed traverses followed by an easy-ish finish up the centre of the depression.
Hidden 13 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Martin Haworth 6 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Really enjoyed this route, good moves, never too hard. Not as polished or bold as I was expecting.
Really enjoyed this route, good moves, never too hard. Not as polished or bold as I was expecting.
Pete Rigby 5 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Direct Start - Polished but kind of adds to the fun!
with Kelli Roberts
Direct Start - Polished but kind of adds to the fun!
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 5 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Had to do most of second pitch in the dark!!
Had to do most of second pitch in the dark!!
Alan100 1 Sep, 2012 AltLd First pitch felt pretty bold but I that's probably just I hadn't climbed for a while. Not much call for gear as there are so many pegs. Jug on the second pitch was a bit of a stretch - glad i'm tall ;)
First pitch felt pretty bold but I that's probably just I hadn't climbed for a while. Not much call for gear as there are so many pegs. Jug on the second pitch was a bit of a stretch - glad i'm tall ;)
richardr 18 Aug, 2012 AltLd Mostly directionless shuffling.
with Billg
Mostly directionless shuffling.
with Billg
1202alarm 11 Aug, 2012 - A lovely route, not as polished as i expected and the top pitch is fantastic.
with Jamie Evans
A lovely route, not as polished as i expected and the top pitch is fantastic.
with Jamie Evans
james.slater 11 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S First pitch is fairly uncomfortable, and the rock and gear is not particularly inspiring! Hard for HVS! Top pitch is a lot better! How this is a classic i have no idea...
First pitch is fairly uncomfortable, and the rock and gear is not particularly inspiring! Hard for HVS! Top pitch is a lot better! How this is a classic i have no idea...
Cailean Harker 3 Aug, 2012 -
Mike Goldthorp 3 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Interesting route, not as classic as I suspected, although maybe I just had high expections. Lead 1st pitch - quite shuffley climbing on rock which may well be solid but I couldnt help being a bit suspiciouse of it, although 2nd pitch had some great airy positions and lovely rock.
Interesting route, not as classic as I suspected, although maybe I just had high expections. Lead 1st pitch - quite shuffley climbing on rock which may well be solid but I couldnt help being a bit suspiciouse of it, although 2nd pitch had some great airy positions and lovely rock.
gb05 3 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Mike led first, I finished it off
with Mike Goldthorp, Cailean Harker
Mike led first, I finished it off
with Mike Goldthorp, Cailean Harker
Kemics 27 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S led 2nd pitch. Had a bit of trouble with route finding, think I got it in the end. 2nd pitch didn't feel too soft. An interesting piece of history and nice enough route but top 50 rockfax!? Must have kept them chuckling for days...
led 2nd pitch. Had a bit of trouble with route finding, think I got it in the end. 2nd pitch didn't feel too soft. An interesting piece of history and nice enough route but top 50 rockfax!? Must have kept them chuckling for days...
Anthony Dixon 27 Jun, 2012 AltLd
with Kemics
with Kemics
jon_gill1 9 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S i did pitch 1 with direct start,felt way more like E1 and to my surprise is E1 5b.chris led p2.
with chris Lyness
i did pitch 1 with direct start,felt way more like E1 and to my surprise is E1 5b.chris led p2.
with chris Lyness
Nick Russell 13 May, 2012 AltLd rpt I led P1, Jason P2. Harder than I remember
with Jason
I led P1, Jason P2. Harder than I remember
with Jason
haydng 8 Apr, 2012 AltLd rpt
with Dave
with Dave
Nick Russell 10 Mar, 2012 Solo rpt Freaked out a bit below the overhang when I couldn't find the hidden jug...
Freaked out a bit below the overhang when I couldn't find the hidden jug...
Mark Warnett ?Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Princess Diana
with Princess Diana
Hidden ?Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
ajtay 25 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Quite hard for the grade - bottom pitch weird line to start - top pitch not 4b - quite hard for 4c. Good though and not as polished as everyone says.
with Sam1991
Quite hard for the grade - bottom pitch weird line to start - top pitch not 4b - quite hard for 4c. Good though and not as polished as everyone says.
with Sam1991
aipattison 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Amazing climbing, if a little polished.
Amazing climbing, if a little polished.
georgeevans88 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
The Ivanator 22 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Thought this deserved its stars, good climbing all the way. Looks unlikely for the grade ...one of those routes you get down from, look up at and think, Wow! I just climbed that. Not too polished at all. I took an age to find the uber jug above the overhang (led P2).
with jezb1
Thought this deserved its stars, good climbing all the way. Looks unlikely for the grade ...one of those routes you get down from, look up at and think, Wow! I just climbed that. Not too polished at all. I took an age to find the uber jug above the overhang (led P2).
with jezb1
jezb1 22 Jan, 2012 Lead Good route. Lead p1. P2 surprisingly good also. Wish I'd read the guide book properly though to save faff!
Good route. Lead p1. P2 surprisingly good also. Wish I'd read the guide book properly though to save faff!
Ed Babs 15 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
with Mike Hawkins
with Mike Hawkins
DanH9883 ??, 2012 Lead
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Billg ??, 2012 AltLd O/S
Stewart Armstrong ??, 2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
matt perks ??, 2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??, 2012 -
cbeard 18 Dec, 2011 AltLd O/S Excellent, sustained climb. Felt high in the grade, though this may partially be due to the cold ~5ºC rock making our hands numb! Well worth it's 3 stars
Excellent, sustained climb. Felt high in the grade, though this may partially be due to the cold ~5ºC rock making our hands numb! Well worth it's 3 stars
mick1jones 19 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch
with Rich Rogers
Led 2nd pitch
with Rich Rogers
BeccaSnowden 13 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S Downclimbed half of the unprotected rib on pitch 1, got tom to do it and led pitch 2 instead. Excellent route with quality climbing throughout.
Downclimbed half of the unprotected rib on pitch 1, got tom to do it and led pitch 2 instead. Excellent route with quality climbing throughout.
thomasadixon 13 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S
pmurdy 6 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S First pitch only.
with Gallant
First pitch only.
with Gallant
Stanners 29 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S Didn't feel particularly hard for 5a but definitely HVS. Rained quite hard on first pitch but stayed reasonable on second. Want to do again leading first pitch, but in the dry.
Didn't feel particularly hard for 5a but definitely HVS. Rained quite hard on first pitch but stayed reasonable on second. Want to do again leading first pitch, but in the dry.
Aaron Lines 29 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Oct, 2011 2nd
evhall 15 Oct, 2011 AltLd rpt first pitch for a change! polish!!
with goat
first pitch for a change! polish!!
with goat
crossdressingrodney 7 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S Set off leading, but chickened out of the unprotected moves up to the first peg. Let Alex take the (hard!) first pitch, and strolled up the second pitch instead as darkness drew in.
with AlexM
Set off leading, but chickened out of the unprotected moves up to the first peg. Let Alex take the (hard!) first pitch, and strolled up the second pitch instead as darkness drew in.
with AlexM
Hidden 7 Oct, 2011 AltLd rpt
Nick Russell 4 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S Cheeky end-of-season climb weather just about held off for us! Did the original start (according to the Rockfax guide), awesome route, not overly polished so don't let previous comments put you off. New favourite climb in the gorge
Cheeky end-of-season climb weather just about held off for us! Did the original start (according to the Rockfax guide), awesome route, not overly polished so don't let previous comments put you off. New favourite climb in the gorge
dan ely 4 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S direct start seams logical as better line, little polish and good rock
with nick
direct start seams logical as better line, little polish and good rock
with nick
i_a_coops 3 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
wild_nomad 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S Quality climbing but polished. Full fat at the grade but loads of pro. More like a sport route with the amount of pegs.
Quality climbing but polished. Full fat at the grade but loads of pro. More like a sport route with the amount of pegs.
Didymus 28 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Led both pitches, did a hybrid start. Blind jug above overhang on p2 is a beauty once found! Polish not too bad overall. Abbed down The Corpse. 3 hrs.
with Nick
Led both pitches, did a hybrid start. Blind jug above overhang on p2 is a beauty once found! Polish not too bad overall. Abbed down The Corpse. 3 hrs.
with Nick
thomb 24 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Wasn't feeling bold enough for the LH start, so tackled the polished direct section - better protected but strong move (5b?). P2 much more solid and with great climbing.
with Tom Syrett
Wasn't feeling bold enough for the LH start, so tackled the polished direct section - better protected but strong move (5b?). P2 much more solid and with great climbing.
with Tom Syrett
GPN 3 Sep, 2011 Lead Excellent and quite hard. Those saying it's horribly polished probably need to get about a bit more - it isn't!
with net
Excellent and quite hard. Those saying it's horribly polished probably need to get about a bit more - it isn't!
with net
net 3 Sep, 2011 2nd Harder than expected. Though really <i>not</i> polished...
with GPN
Harder than expected. Though really <i>not</i> polished...
with GPN
djking1983 2 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Steve Knaggs
with Steve Knaggs
Phil PBC 31 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
with henry castle
scorpia97 23 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2, lower down very polished, 2nd pitch wonderful..
with Caspar
Lead pitch 2, lower down very polished, 2nd pitch wonderful..
with Caspar
Hidden 23 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 16 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1, scary first moves!
Led P1, scary first moves!
Graeme Hammond 16 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S led pitch 1
with Trevor Wilson
led pitch 1
with Trevor Wilson
jlismore 16 Aug, 2011 AltLd
petegunn 28 Jul, 2011 AltLd First time climbing in the gorge and on a beautiful day. Led first pitch, direct start
First time climbing in the gorge and on a beautiful day. Led first pitch, direct start
Hidden 28 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
kyle 27 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Tricky route finding on pitch 2
Tricky route finding on pitch 2
Kate Edhouse 27 Jul, 2011 2nd Lovely first pitch, slightly confusing second pitch, but great ground covered.
with kyle
Lovely first pitch, slightly confusing second pitch, but great ground covered.
with kyle
M_W_Court 18 Jul, 2011 Lead
kingrollo 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Took first pitch, original route...a tad polished but good fun. Good tick for my birthday
Took first pitch, original route...a tad polished but good fun. Good tick for my birthday
ashley_sandeman 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd Rollo took the first pitch lead up the original start, which unknown to us is an E1 5b it turns out. The crux move about 10 metres up lives up to the description of ice rink, and is horribly polished. The second pitch (lead by me) up progressive overhangs is very enjoyable though and really makes the climb. I didn't find the hidden jug on the first overhang and pretty much body smeared over it, but either way there's tons of protections and good holds with decent exposure. Made the error of tracking left at the finish up the broken rock to exit in a thicket of gorse and bramble. Not recommended. Head straight up the channel to the clean finish instead.
with kingrollo
Rollo took the first pitch lead up the original start, which unknown to us is an E1 5b it turns out. The crux move about 10 metres up lives up to the description of ice rink, and is horribly polished. The second pitch (lead by me) up progressive overhangs is very enjoyable though and really makes the climb. I didn't find the hidden jug on the first overhang and pretty much body smeared over it, but either way there's tons of protections and good holds with decent exposure. Made the error of tracking left at the finish up the broken rock to exit in a thicket of gorse and bramble. Not recommended. Head straight up the channel to the clean finish instead.
with kingrollo
ruaidh 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Lead P1. Excellent outing, though definite contender for Avon's most awkward belay situation. All pretty straight forward really, apart from polished traverse on P1 (route loses a star for that). Best pitch (IMHO) is P2. The hidden hold at the overhang is a peach.
with Tim
Lead P1. Excellent outing, though definite contender for Avon's most awkward belay situation. All pretty straight forward really, apart from polished traverse on P1 (route loses a star for that). Best pitch (IMHO) is P2. The hidden hold at the overhang is a peach.
with Tim
wildrover220 23 Jun, 2011 AltLd rpt Led 1st Pitch
Led 1st Pitch
fragglerock 22 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Great route breaching the centre of the main wall. Good climbing with a couple of mantle moves and nerve-testing traverses. Some dubious looking pegs in-situ but acceptable gear placements are available to protect crux moves. (Top out straight up through an open, left-facing corner. Alternatively finish to the left by following good holds on increasingly broken rock till, gripped with fear, you crawl over the crumbling lip into brambles and gorse bushes - not recommended!
Great route breaching the centre of the main wall. Good climbing with a couple of mantle moves and nerve-testing traverses. Some dubious looking pegs in-situ but acceptable gear placements are available to protect crux moves. (Top out straight up through an open, left-facing corner. Alternatively finish to the left by following good holds on increasingly broken rock till, gripped with fear, you crawl over the crumbling lip into brambles and gorse bushes - not recommended!
suffolknick 11 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S Why is that jug so bloody hard to find?!
with clams
Why is that jug so bloody hard to find?!
with clams
clams 11 Jun, 2011 AltLd Led P1, Toby P2
with Toby, suffolknick
Led P1, Toby P2
with Toby, suffolknick
Chris Sansum 3 Jun, 2011 AltLd rpt Cha P1, Chris P2
Cha P1, Chris P2
Nathanrobinson 17 May, 2011 AltLd O/S Fred P1 me P2
with Frederic Richard
Fred P1 me P2
with Frederic Richard
Fred_Richard 17 May, 2011 Lead O/S led P1 with long exiting traverse, Nathan P2 with Overhang (hidden jug high up), good value for 4C.
led P1 with long exiting traverse, Nathan P2 with Overhang (hidden jug high up), good value for 4C.
Bobling 12 May, 2011 2nd
with James P, Andy again
with James P, Andy again
Poco Loco 12 May, 2011 2nd Great route, fun climbing. The small overhang on P2 took a bit of feeling about, but the holds are there. Andy led.
with Andy, Bobling
Great route, fun climbing. The small overhang on P2 took a bit of feeling about, but the holds are there. Andy led.
with Andy, Bobling
HarryB 17 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S Clay led P1, then i got lost halfway up P2 so made a belay then clay led from there, finished in the dark and rain with no headtorch...
with Clay C
Clay led P1, then i got lost halfway up P2 so made a belay then clay led from there, finished in the dark and rain with no headtorch...
with Clay C
Hidden 17 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
katherinesydney 14 Mar, 2011 2nd dog pinged off a polished bit and fumbled for the secret hold on the overhang... but otherwise all good! yay peregrine and buzzards
with gary burgess
pinged off a polished bit and fumbled for the secret hold on the overhang... but otherwise all good! yay peregrine and buzzards
with gary burgess
Jonnie Watkins ??, 2011 -
31770 ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 2011 -
centurion05 ??, 2011 -
Kevster 24 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Oct, 2010 2nd
Ross Davidson 4 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S did direct start but got a little lost on final pitch having to sacrifice the 'incredible hold' for something smaller. good route
did direct start but got a little lost on final pitch having to sacrifice the 'incredible hold' for something smaller. good route
adamA ?Oct, 2010 2nd
_m.cox_ ?Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
with westyb3
with westyb3
Ybot Htulk 19 Sep, 2010 AltLd Led P1. This climb is excellent
with Norman and Sonya
Led P1. This climb is excellent
with Norman and Sonya
Huntlyfiddler 12 Sep, 2010 2nd
bpmclimb 12 Sep, 2010 Lead β
Hidden 6 Sep, 2010 Lead
colkurtz 6 Sep, 2010 2nd
with Robb
with Robb
andy dunn 2 Sep, 2010 2nd
with J
with J
simonf 31 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
localboy 31 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S Did 'aid' the traverse on the first pitch.
with simonf
Did 'aid' the traverse on the first pitch.
with simonf
Justin T 30 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with Cusco
with Cusco
Hidden 16 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Jessie Rushbrooke 1 Aug, 2010 Lead β
with GF
with GF
Pete Rigby ?Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Jim Tan
with Jim Tan
Chubbard 31 Jul, 2010 Lead rpt Ace!
with Ray
Ace!
with Ray
Slick 12 Jul, 2010 AltLd The traverse was um... a little interesting. Hidden jug a long way up!
with Kevin Vans-Colina
The traverse was um... a little interesting. Hidden jug a long way up!
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Pete Polish 11 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Marcin
with Marcin
Hidden 10 Jul, 2010 AltLd
andy dunn 12 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S some really nice climbing, just follow the polish up the gorge. Gave up looking for the jug at the start of P2 only to see it once i'd pulled over the overhang without it.
with Alan
some really nice climbing, just follow the polish up the gorge. Gave up looking for the jug at the start of P2 only to see it once i'd pulled over the overhang without it.
with Alan
Longsufferingropeholder 5 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
ed edwards ?Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with tim bateson
with tim bateson
Hidden 25 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
evhall 15 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Ian lead first pitch - me second. Fantastic route - once you find the jug above the overhang!
with Cutts
Ian lead first pitch - me second. Fantastic route - once you find the jug above the overhang!
with Cutts
Jessie Rushbrooke 15 Apr, 2010 2nd
with GF
with GF
Hidden 11 Apr, 2010 2nd rpt
Mr Powly 5 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S done as one pitch, getting dark
with Malcolm
done as one pitch, getting dark
with Malcolm
Pown 5 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
Popkids 4 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
with Nolan
with Nolan
Hidden ?Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Dave Cundy ??, 2010 Lead
with Dave Wood
with Dave Wood
Jim Tan ??, 2010 AltLd O/S
Aaron Lines ??, 2010 -
gripped01 ?Dec, 2009 AltLd O/S Led first pitch, Alex T led 2nd. Cold with great friction.
with Alex Tomczynski, Dave Tait
Led first pitch, Alex T led 2nd. Cold with great friction.
with Alex Tomczynski, Dave Tait
Stone Muppet 20 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with AJM
with AJM
AJM 20 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S Reviewing partners logged ascents and would have sworn blind I'd never done this route until finding it...
Reviewing partners logged ascents and would have sworn blind I'd never done this route until finding it...
Chris Sansum 19 Sep, 2009 Lead rpt Chris led P1 & P2. Found pitch 2 quite easy this time - must have improved since last time! I'm now realising that P1 shouldn't really be called Malbogies in the book as the technical bit of it is a different climb to what Bonington climbed. Will have to try the original start sometime (although it is supposed to be a lot harder now due to loss of a crucial hold).
with Gary Lewin
Chris led P1 & P2. Found pitch 2 quite easy this time - must have improved since last time! I'm now realising that P1 shouldn't really be called Malbogies in the book as the technical bit of it is a different climb to what Bonington climbed. Will have to try the original start sometime (although it is supposed to be a lot harder now due to loss of a crucial hold).
with Gary Lewin
lithos 15 Aug, 2009 Lead P1+P2, that jug is well hidden on P2 !
P1+P2, that jug is well hidden on P2 !
ian d f 25 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
deklan 12 Jul, 2009 AltLd
with julie jamie
with julie jamie
plant_based_tommo 9 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S lead the first pitch, pretty sure i did the direct start e1 5b
with alex harper
lead the first pitch, pretty sure i did the direct start e1 5b
with alex harper
Hidden 5 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Somerset swede basher 4 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Direct Start (E1 5b)
with Mike Kann
Direct Start (E1 5b)
with Mike Kann
EmmanuelF 10 May, 2009 Lead lead pitch 2
with arnaud
lead pitch 2
with arnaud
Hidden 2 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
mike bridges 31 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S Climbed 2 days after my 50th birthday! had gone to Kev`s for a birthday weekend (brilliant!) Kev led 1st pitch,(the direct start)me the 2nd(kept telling myself ,it`s only 4b in Hard Rock!)Excellent climb,cold day though.abbed off.
with KRB
Climbed 2 days after my 50th birthday! had gone to Kev`s for a birthday weekend (brilliant!) Kev led 1st pitch,(the direct start)me the 2nd(kept telling myself ,it`s only 4b in Hard Rock!)Excellent climb,cold day though.abbed off.
with KRB
Hidden 31 Jan, 2009 Lead rpt
Hidden 31 Jan, 2009 2nd dog
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead
Kenemo ??, 2009 -
simonw1 28 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
with conrad and nick
with conrad and nick
maria85 25 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S
with sdi
with sdi
sdi 25 Sep, 2008 Lead rpt
with maria85
with maria85
Chubbard 7 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S The first bit is terrifying!
with JimR
The first bit is terrifying!
with JimR
JimR 7 Sep, 2008 2nd Good value for the grade at the start
with Charles H
Good value for the grade at the start
with Charles H
Hidden 31 Aug, 2008 AltLd rpt
Hidden 31 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Dan_Carroll 10 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
with Rebecca Holland
jamieevans ?May, 2008 Lead O/S
maresia 26 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S Led the first pitch and took quite a while over it. The jug on the 2nd pitch overhang is huge!
with Iain.A
Led the first pitch and took quite a while over it. The jug on the 2nd pitch overhang is huge!
with Iain.A
chris sm 22 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S Did it in the snow. Very cold.
with Tyler
Did it in the snow. Very cold.
with Tyler
Hidden 22 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 5 Mar, 2008 AltLd rpt Led p1
with Joe
Led p1
with Joe
Shaw Brown 23 Feb, 2008 AltLd Quite committing the first crux, goes OK once you commit! Watch out for loose rock at the top, I fell off seconding when a hold snapped off on me.
with loz01
Quite committing the first crux, goes OK once you commit! Watch out for loose rock at the top, I fell off seconding when a hold snapped off on me.
with loz01
Chris Sansum 23 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S 2nd pitch felt harder technically that the first. Maybe 'the move' is easier if you have a longer reach to grab the monster hold, but for me it easily felt like 5a. A great climb, and we didn't feel too much shame in taking ages to get up the thing.
with Weilin Wang
2nd pitch felt harder technically that the first. Maybe 'the move' is easier if you have a longer reach to grab the monster hold, but for me it easily felt like 5a. A great climb, and we didn't feel too much shame in taking ages to get up the thing.
with Weilin Wang
Hidden 7 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
Paz 7 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S Did the direct start and direct finish (both E1 5a but more like 5b).
with AlexM
Did the direct start and direct finish (both E1 5a but more like 5b).
with AlexM
Worzel Japseye ??, 2008 -
with J. Bailey
with J. Bailey
Hidden 7 Dec, 2007 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 7 Dec, 2007 2nd
RagingPuffin 25 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
with Emily Reynolds
with Emily Reynolds
Al Franks 25 Nov, 2007 Lead O/S
with Emily Reynolds
with Emily Reynolds
Hidden 10 Nov, 2007 AltLd O/S
Chris the Tall 10 Nov, 2007 AltLd Brilliant fun and was quite amazed we managed to finish it before it got too dark. Dave led P1 (5a), I led P2(4c)
with PeakDJ
Brilliant fun and was quite amazed we managed to finish it before it got too dark. Dave led P1 (5a), I led P2(4c)
with PeakDJ
georgeevans88 ?Nov, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Oct, 2007 AltLd
Tom Last 13 Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S Led first pitch. What lovely pegs; hmmm. Couldn't figure out all this talk of 'jugs' over the first overhang on the second pitch. If by 'jugs', people mean small, polished, Avon slopers, then yes, there were plenty of them. I think 4c is a bit of a joke for the second pitch.
with Clive
Led first pitch. What lovely pegs; hmmm. Couldn't figure out all this talk of 'jugs' over the first overhang on the second pitch. If by 'jugs', people mean small, polished, Avon slopers, then yes, there were plenty of them. I think 4c is a bit of a joke for the second pitch.
with Clive
Hidden 6 Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S
Bux 17 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S I led the first pitch, Rupert the second. As usual with Rupert, finished the route in the dark.
with Rupert Bassadone
I led the first pitch, Rupert the second. As usual with Rupert, finished the route in the dark.
with Rupert Bassadone
jamestryfan 9 Aug, 2007 2nd dog Ian led; I followed and then did Colin. I pulled on the odd piece of gear. I wouldn't have been able to lead, probably due to the tricky start. We only did the first pitch and then abseiled off due to time/remaining light concerns. We then went to the white lion in Frenchay for a couple of pints.
with IC and CK
Ian led; I followed and then did Colin. I pulled on the odd piece of gear. I wouldn't have been able to lead, probably due to the tricky start. We only did the first pitch and then abseiled off due to time/remaining light concerns. We then went to the white lion in Frenchay for a couple of pints.
with IC and CK
Hidden 9 Aug, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 7 Aug, 2007 AltLd β
Rich Mayfield 13 Jul, 2007 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 13 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Rich Mayfield
with Rich Mayfield
tonanf 12 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
with james c
with james c
bpmclimb 13 Jun, 2007 2nd dnf Seconded pitch 1 - was about to lead p2 when the rain forced an abseil retreat.
with Iain
Seconded pitch 1 - was about to lead p2 when the rain forced an abseil retreat.
with Iain
Hidden 2 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 ?Apr, 2007 2nd
with Pete
with Pete
chris wyatt ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
Dave Cundy ??, 2007 AltLd
with Jason Black
with Jason Black
haydng ??, 2007 Lead O/S
with Will, RMG
with Will, RMG
Hidden 15 Oct, 2006 AltLd O/S
hamer89 27 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
Lev 3 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Dai Jessop
with Dai Jessop
wildrover220 6 May, 2006 2nd O/S
with Neil Thomas
with Neil Thomas
Hidden ?May, 2006 2nd
cornishben 6 Apr, 2006 AltLd O/S Led first pitch (direct start)
with Richard Nadin
Led first pitch (direct start)
with Richard Nadin
Tom Heslam ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Ed Heslam
with Ed Heslam
beardy mike ??, 2006 Lead O/S E1 direct start...
with Bill Naylor
E1 direct start...
with Bill Naylor
John Lisle ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Bristoldave ??, 2006 AltLd O/S Led P2
with long
Led P2
with long
Hidden 17 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
sdi ?Jun, 2005 AltLd
with tomski3
with tomski3
Fat Tim 25 May, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Mark kauntz
with Mark kauntz
al99 13 May, 2005 AltLd
with Rupert Rosedale
with Rupert Rosedale
IceMonkey1982 ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2005 2nd O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks ??, 2005 Lead O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks ??, 2005 Lead O/S
tom.e ??, 2005 Lead O/S
fellgazelle 2 Oct, 2004 AltLd O/S
charlesmfrench 2 Oct, 2004 AltLd
Hidden 9 Sep, 2004 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2004 AltLd
Neil 3 Jul, 2004 Lead
Hidden 24 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
furry ?Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Neil
with Neil
Mark Davies PK ?Jun, 2004 Lead O/S
with Beesley (oliver)
with Beesley (oliver)
Hidden 16 May, 2004 AltLd
Hidden ?Jan, 2004 Lead
Jon Greengrass ?Jan, 2004 2nd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
Jon Greengrass ??, 2004 2nd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
dan gibson ??, 2004 -
simon kimber ??, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Richard Chew
with Richard Chew
Hidden 31 May, 2003 AltLd
DavidR 5 Jan, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Jemma Wadham
with Jemma Wadham
Tim W ??, 2003 2nd O/S
with Will Frost, Pete Apps
with Will Frost, Pete Apps
MikeC59 24 Jul, 2002 2nd
Boxy 9 Jun, 2002 AltLd O/S led p1
with Mick
led p1
with Mick
Hidden ?May, 2002 AltLd O/S
Paz ?Feb, 2002 Lead O/S
with RB
with RB
greedo ??, 2002 AltLd O/S Led top pitch, superb. Also did direct start at E1 5b in 2002
with Steve Marriott
Led top pitch, superb. Also did direct start at E1 5b in 2002
with Steve Marriott
gimmer ?May, 2001 AltLd O/S
with Jason Darke
with Jason Darke
Hidden ??, 2001 -
Hidden ??, 2001 Lead dog
Hidden 1 Aug, 2000 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2000 2nd
Roget 13 Feb, 2000 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??, 2000 -
alan moore ??, 2000 - Pulled on the peg on the "easy" start.
Pulled on the peg on the "easy" start.
Jim Brooke 13 Jun, 1999 AltLd O/S
richsmithinbristol 13 Jun, 1999 AltLd Straight up to the UBMC BBQ!
Straight up to the UBMC BBQ!
Hidden ?Jun, 1999 AltLd
DavidR 29 May, 1998 AltLd O/S
with John Marston and Martin
with John Marston and Martin
Hidden 15 Mar, 1998 2nd O/S
markpollak ??, 1998 -
with suzanne mcfadzean
with suzanne mcfadzean
phardman 20 Jul, 1997 -
DavidR 31 Mar, 1997 2nd O/S
with John Marston
with John Marston
IanGilbertJones 8 Feb, 1997 Lead O/S
penyolewen 14 Jun, 1996 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 1996 AltLd
phardman 15 Oct, 1995 AltLd
colin milton 29 Aug, 1995 AltLd lead p1
with eric milton
lead p1
with eric milton
jim_randell 27 Jun, 1995 AltLd O/S We found a football at the bottom of the climb which we carried up the route.
with FW
We found a football at the bottom of the climb which we carried up the route.
with FW
chris sm 23 Feb, 1995 Lead O/S P1 only. Abbed due to rain.
with Francis Taylor
P1 only. Abbed due to rain.
with Francis Taylor
lowersharpnose 1 Jan, 1995 Lead
Hidden ??, 1995 AltLd
DavidR ??, 1995 2nd O/S
with John Marston
with John Marston
Hidden 1 Oct, 1994 AltLd
mikej 28 Sep, 1994 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
with Nick Salmon
Hidden 17 Sep, 1994 Lead
Marti999 ??, 1994 Lead
Hidden ??, 1994 Lead
AndySL ??, 1993 AltLd O/S Mark led first, I led second.
with Mark
Mark led first, I led second.
with Mark
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead O/S
MikeYouCanClimb 24 Apr, 1991 AltLd
with Rod
with Rod
daviesxxx ??, 1990 -
philhilo ??, 1990 -
philhilo ??, 1990 -
Mickdenali ??, 1990 AltLd O/S
with Craig Offless
with Craig Offless
Dave Musgrove 5 Aug, 1989 AltLd
Dave Musgrove Jnr 5 Aug, 1989 AltLd
Hidden 15 Apr, 1989 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??, 1989 Lead
with Hugh Woodland
with Hugh Woodland
pauldrew ??, 1989 Lead
Nigel Coe 26 Nov, 1988 -
with Mike Scott, Tim Dunsby
with Mike Scott, Tim Dunsby
Hidden 15 Oct, 1988 AltLd
BigHairyIan 5 Apr, 1988 AltLd O/S
GuySummers 5 Apr, 1988 AltLd
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1988 Lead
AndyB123 ??, 1988 AltLd O/S
with Andy E
with Andy E
Lee Davies (Sniffer) ??, 1988 2nd
with Chris Court
with Chris Court
mark-abz 14 Nov, 1987 Lead
with Andy W
with Andy W
michael burrows 29 Aug, 1987 AltLd O/S
with ian nettleton
with ian nettleton
RichardMc 10 May, 1987 AltLd O/S
with Pete Stokes
with Pete Stokes
surfbish ?Apr, 1987 Lead
Moses 15 Nov, 1986 Lead rpt
Adrian Gostick 4 Nov, 1986 Lead
steveb2006 12 Oct, 1986 AltLd Led crux pitch
with Gary Burton
Led crux pitch
with Gary Burton
Hidden 5 May, 1986 2nd O/S
wynaptomos ?Mar, 1986 Lead O/S
Budge ??, 1986 2nd O/S
with Bonds Western
with Bonds Western
William Robertson ??, 1986 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
KRB 19 Oct, 1985 Lead O/S First visit to the Gorge and camped below the crag. Did the direct start. Excellent climb and excellent weekend
with Martin Cowley
First visit to the Gorge and camped below the crag. Did the direct start. Excellent climb and excellent weekend
with Martin Cowley
Hidden 13 Oct, 1985 AltLd
rogerskews 21 Sep, 1985 AltLd Wonderful top pitch !
with Martin Coward
Wonderful top pitch !
with Martin Coward
mikej 21 Sep, 1985 AltLd Via the direct start
with Mike Byles
Via the direct start
with Mike Byles
JamieAyres ?Jul, 1985 Lead rpt lost count how many times. first time was 2nding Pete on the direct start, then led the left hand start + top pitch.
with Peter Rickard
lost count how many times. first time was 2nding Pete on the direct start, then led the left hand start + top pitch.
with Peter Rickard
Hidden 16 Apr, 1985 Lead
Steve Webster ?Jan, 1985 AltLd
rob.grafton ??, 1985 Lead
with sarah matson
with sarah matson
Adrian Daniels ??, 1985 AltLd O/S
Davy Gunn ??, 1985 -
with Fiona Gunn
with Fiona Gunn
pete johnson ??, 1985 -
sadams 30 Sep, 1984 Lead
with Steve Gordon-Head
with Steve Gordon-Head
Pete Nugent 4 Aug, 1984 Lead HVS,5a*** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
HVS,5a*** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
Hidden 1 Jun, 1984 Lead
Richard Weller 20 May, 1984 AltLd
with Jerry Luntley
with Jerry Luntley
William Robertson ??, 1984 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
Hairy Welshman ??, 1984 AltLd O/S
with Ross Robinson
with Ross Robinson
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
Hidden ??, 1984 2nd
charlesmfrench 15 Nov, 1983 Lead O/S Again with direct start 2/8/85. Again with Ian Haigh 2/10/04.
Again with direct start 2/8/85. Again with Ian Haigh 2/10/04.
stp 19 Aug, 1983 Solo rpt Lead previously in Sept 81
Lead previously in Sept 81
andy gittins ??, 1983 -
Robmwatt ??, 1983 AltLd Not 100% sure about date but early 80s
with Gaz Morgan
Not 100% sure about date but early 80s
with Gaz Morgan
nigehughes ?Oct, 1982 AltLd
with Phil James
with Phil James
Nigel Bond 5 Sep, 1982 Lead
with Rodger Edenborough
with Rodger Edenborough
The Reaper 4 Sep, 1982 Lead O/S
duncan ?Aug, 1982 Solo rpt
tapley 6 Jun, 1982 Lead
with Tony Charles
with Tony Charles
leland stamper ?Jun, 1982 AltLd
with hugh rawson
with hugh rawson
Steve Clegg 8 May, 1982 AltLd
Brian Wilderspin 8 May, 1982 AltLd
Hidden ?May, 1982 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 9 Apr, 1982 AltLd O/S
with Phil Ralph
with Phil Ralph
redjerry ?Apr, 1982 AltLd
with Jim Melrose
with Jim Melrose
Nigel Coe 14 Mar, 1982 AltLd
with Tim Dunsby
with Tim Dunsby
babymoac 13 Feb, 1982 2nd
with Dave Salter
with Dave Salter
Pete Wimbush ?Jan, 1982 2nd
with Paddy Gibson
with Paddy Gibson
AlanLittle ??, 1982 Lead
John Marsland ?Oct, 1981 AltLd
with Ian Stopforth
with Ian Stopforth
Nic Robinson 31 Aug, 1981 Lead O/S
with Richard Dickenson
with Richard Dickenson
Steve Bell ??, 1981 -
Hidden ??, 1981 -
Sully 24 Jul, 1980 AltLd O/S
with PA
with PA
peterbeaumont ??, 1980 -
Chris Ebbutt ??, 1980 AltLd Lead the first pitch. An early milestone in my climbing career.
with Adrian F.
Lead the first pitch. An early milestone in my climbing career.
with Adrian F.
duncan ?Jul, 1979 AltLd O/S
with Simon Reed
with Simon Reed
Hidden ?May, 1979 Lead
Hidden 9 Apr, 1979 Lead rpt
Brian Wilderspin ?Mar, 1979 -
with Jim Gilchrist
with Jim Gilchrist
Hidden ?Jun, 1978 AltLd
D Tempest ?Mar, 1978 Lead
Hidden ??, 1978 AltLd
Ian Jones ??, 1978 Lead O/S
with Chris Newton, Karen Ghiselli
with Chris Newton, Karen Ghiselli
beaumap 2 Sep, 1977 Lead
with Pete Coghill
with Pete Coghill
Chris Terrey 17 Jun, 1977 AltLd
with Ken Taylor
with Ken Taylor
Andy Chadwick ??, 1977 AltLd O/S
Andy Chubb 13 Sep, 1976 AltLd
with Saxon Ridley
with Saxon Ridley
Steve Lewis 21 Jul, 1976 AltLd O/S
with Morty
with Morty
Falko 11 Apr, 1976 Lead O/S
with Alan Taylor, Chris Plant
with Alan Taylor, Chris Plant
Andy Chubb 10 Apr, 1976 AltLd
with Pete Coghill
with Pete Coghill
Ken Taylor 17 Mar, 1976 AltLd
with Jonathan Lagoe
with Jonathan Lagoe
Marcus ??, 1976 -
Bolt Phobia 22 Nov, 1975 2nd
with Wil Hurford
with Wil Hurford
Mark Kemball 16 Oct, 1975 Lead
with Steve Marriott
with Steve Marriott
Marcus 27 Jul, 1975 -
with Roger Stokes
with Roger Stokes
Rick51 23 Mar, 1974 AltLd
Steve Woollard ??, 1973 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Jun, 1972 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 30 May, 1972 AltLd
with Speedy Smith
with Speedy Smith
Martin Bennett 7 Sep, 1971 -
with JD
with JD
Hidden ??, 1966 AltLd
118 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 120
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 113
Votes cast 110
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set