Rockfax Description
An excellent route incorporating a lot of difficult and tenuous climbing as well as some serious situations on the first pitch. Start on Breakfast Ledge.
1) 6b, 42m. Follow Lich Gates up its initial groove to a peg and then move carefully up and slightly right to another peg and wires. Make bold moves diagonally left past a poor peg to join Peryl at a peg. Follow Peryl up right to a rest and then back left past pegs and move into a shallow groove with difficulty. From two bolts move up slightly right to 2 pegs and make some final pressing moves to a belay.
2) 6b, 12m. Climb up rightwards to a peg and wires, or, up left to a break and a thread and move right and down to the peg. From the peg move up and right to another peg and wires and so on to the top. A committing and exciting pitch. © Rockfax

R Harrison, with J Edwards Jan/1978 (pitch 1), with G A Jenkin 2/Nov/1985 (pitch 2) 02/Nov/1985

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Ged Desforges ??/2012 -

Awesome, one of the best e5's in Avon. Loose block on 1st pitch though that is pretty dangerous. Currently a big chalky x on it. Easy enough to avoid it. Might be worth someone going and getting rid of it though

KRB 17/Sep/05 Lead β

Martin slipped as his untied school shoes fell off as he climbed up to the start of the climb, dragging me off the Breakfast Ledge leaving me dangling from the tree like an idiot belaying Martin round the waist who was also dangling like an idiot. Not a good start but no such problems on the route itself. A clean lead on a brilliant route that is bold and technical throughout.

with unseconded
Hidden 05/May/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/96 2nd dog
mitch1960 ??/1986 Lead
with Alan Dance
stp 26/Nov/83 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1983 Lead
with matt carr
duncan ?/Sep/82 Lead O/S
with Chris Brier
4 users have this on their wishlist
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 2
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set