Rockfax Description
An engrossing and adventurous tour of the wall. The second pitch is no place for a timid second. Start on Breakfast Ledge.
1) 5b, 20m. From the right side of the ledge above the tree, pull over an overhang and head up and slightly right to a slim corner. Follow this to an overhang and move over it rightwards to a hanging stance on pegs and an old bolt plus nuts.
2) 5c, 26m. Traverse left beneath the overhang to pegs and gear where it fades. Move up and left to a pocket, peg, and then left again to the base of corner groove, peg. Climb the groove and then romp up the three iron spikes on the left wall to a fine stance - the Aerodrome stance.
3) 5a, 14m. Hand traverse left along the exposed rising break, pegs, and finish up the short easy corner. © Rockfax
B Annette, C Jones (4 pts aid) (E3 5c direct finish C King Aug/1979) Feb/1964.
Littlejohn South West Climbs , Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , So you think your an Avon Climber? , Best of the Gorge , South West in Extremis , Avon GORGEous , Routes for MCI , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E2 and some E3 and a few E4 and an E5
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Grade: E2 5c ***
(Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area))