80m, 3 pitches. 4, 4, 4

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Juan Ruiz 28 Oct, 2017 AltLd There is a variation starting left to the crest (Cloti variation). so you can save the initial walking part and lengthen the route. There is an arrow marked on the rock were this variation starts. This pitch is 50 metres long. Its first part is easy but at mid way it steepens at the grade of 5 and finishes where the original Agullo arete starts. In my opinion the grade of the arete is a bit harder than 3/3/4/4. The whole route (including Cloti variation) would be 5/3/4/4+/5+. The total length 230m.
with Lola CMM, Pepe Seiquer
There is a variation starting left to the crest (Cloti variation). so you can save the initial walking part and lengthen the route. There is an arrow marked on the rock were this variation starts. This pitch is 50 metres long. Its first part is easy but at mid way it steepens at the grade of 5 and finishes where the original Agullo arete starts. In my opinion the grade of the arete is a bit harder than 3/3/4/4. The whole route (including Cloti variation) would be 5/3/4/4+/5+. The total length 230m.
with Lola CMM, Pepe Seiquer
Mark Eddy 18 Jan, 2016 AltLd We climbed this with very limited information about the route. It is fairly straightforward. Here's what we found: Approach: From the main parking area (as for Rockfax) follow the track for 300m until a crest is reached and the surface is concreted. There's a cairn here, turn right to follow the right bank of a river bed, eventually switching to the left bank, and follow this up to the base of the wall, keeping right of Sector Deportivo. Route: It's possible to avoid the initial scrambling pitches of around 100m by walking around to the right and following tracks below the rib. However, if you wish to prolong the fun, start about 25m left of the base of the arete, where the vegetation is cleared. A short blank wall leads up to the rib, this is about 4b for a couple of moves, but once the rib is gained it's all scrambling at about grade 2. Follow the rib for about 100m and belay below a steepening. Above lies 4 pitches (3, 3, 4, 4) all between 40 & 50m in length and all contain plenty of loose rock, beware! This is a trad route, cams and slings are especially helpful. We came across one bolted belay, and one piece of fixed gear around a Pine tree (belay), and that's it. Keep to the rib the whole way (there are one or two old pegs), and when nearing the top keep well left of the large flake and climb just left of a prominent groove (one piece of fixed gear on this pitch). Route length: 180m Grade: HS 4a Descent: Whilst it's possible to descend via a gully and scree slope from the top of Pena de Alicante, i'd recommend keeping to the well marked 'PR' track leading down to the Caves. This is longer but very easy and about 45 - 60 minutes back to the car. A very worthwhile route and definitely not a 'Costa clip up'! Enjoy
with Kim Jackson
We climbed this with very limited information about the route. It is fairly straightforward. Here's what we found: Approach: From the main parking area (as for Rockfax) follow the track for 300m until a crest is reached and the surface is concreted. There's a cairn here, turn right to follow the right bank of a river bed, eventually switching to the left bank, and follow this up to the base of the wall, keeping right of Sector Deportivo. Route: It's possible to avoid the initial scrambling pitches of around 100m by walking around to the right and following tracks below the rib. However, if you wish to prolong the fun, start about 25m left of the base of the arete, where the vegetation is cleared. A short blank wall leads up to the rib, this is about 4b for a couple of moves, but once the rib is gained it's all scrambling at about grade 2. Follow the rib for about 100m and belay below a steepening. Above lies 4 pitches (3, 3, 4, 4) all between 40 & 50m in length and all contain plenty of loose rock, beware! This is a trad route, cams and slings are especially helpful. We came across one bolted belay, and one piece of fixed gear around a Pine tree (belay), and that's it. Keep to the rib the whole way (there are one or two old pegs), and when nearing the top keep well left of the large flake and climb just left of a prominent groove (one piece of fixed gear on this pitch). Route length: 180m Grade: HS 4a Descent: Whilst it's possible to descend via a gully and scree slope from the top of Pena de Alicante, i'd recommend keeping to the well marked 'PR' track leading down to the Caves. This is longer but very easy and about 45 - 60 minutes back to the car. A very worthwhile route and definitely not a 'Costa clip up'! Enjoy
with Kim Jackson
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