Rockfax Description
A stern test of both mind and strength on one of Avon's most impressive walls. Start about 45m up the path from the base of the crag at a well-worn gearing-up spot below a tree on a ledge at 3m.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb up vegetated ground above the tree and work easily rightwards to a peg under an overhang. Move down left, then make committing moves up the wall to better holds which lead leftwards again to a small overhang. Move over the overhang rightwards to a small ledge and climb the groove above to a small stance.
2) 5b, 25m. Continue up the groove to an overhang and pull out right and then up into the crack that splits the spectacular final wall. Follow the crack to the left end of the capping overhangs and finish leftwards. © Rockfax

E Ward Drummond, P Morgan, C Woodhead (1 pt aid) May/1967

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes.

Stanners 27/Apr AltLd O/S

It certainly delivered the deviant twisted cocktail of experiences I expected and was after getting for so long! Led P1. Pretty flipping bold..imagine if you fell and that peg ripped?!?! Sensational climbing, very nearly called off at several points due to getting hit by rain showers! Heroic seconding on P1 from Tom who managed to climb what had turned into a waterfall. Things dried up nicely for a sunny second pitch although struggled a bit on second feeling a bit cold and more scared than when on lead (for some reason?!) Very memorable route and a great first route with Tom…many more adventures to come I hope. My first post avon Nova Scotia pint with dry roasted…a fine afternoon of fun and fear. I do love avon.

Mark Stevenson 21/Apr AltLd O/S
dan gibson 21/Apr AltLd O/S
with Mark Stevenson
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
tobydunford 03/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
Hidden 08/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Bold. Definitely worth E3, maybe low in the grade.

Alex Winter 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led the airy second pitch, which I made a bit of a meal of. Had loads of gear but wasn't convinced by much of it. First pitch was pleasant to second, but probably a bit bold on lead. Full on veg top out.

with Nick
James Marshall 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

hmm.. I think liked it, but only after topping out ! glad I led the top pitch rather than the first pitch.

with rich hard rock
Ricky Rocks 25/Jul/14 AltLd
richiebongo 10/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Slightly harrowing with both the state of the fixed gear and the soft crumbly nature of a lot of the rock. Lovley day for a climb though.

with Nick Smith
jcw ??/2013 -
Ed Babs 01/Apr/11 AltLd O/S


with Marti
Marti999 01/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Johnny Baker ??/2011 -
with Derek Toulalan, Dave Webster
frank ramsay 04/Oct/10 Lead

Def E3. The only thing preventing a ground fall from the crux on pitch 1 is one old peg under the roof. Possibly 5c too.

AJM 27/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. A bit of a moment when I kicked one of my wires out! Felt spacey. Last man topped out just as rain arrived.

with Eric Sinclair, Ray Harris
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Aaron Lines ??/2010 2nd O/S
John Southworth 07/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Alex Jakubowski
just one more 22/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with tim b
IceMonkey1982 04/Jul/09 2nd
simon kimber 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hanski 12/Jun/09 2nd
billb ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
richsmithinbristol ?/Jun/09 AltLd
Bristoldave 29/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Led the easier top pitch

with douglas
Hidden 29/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead β
Hidden 29/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Nov/06 AltLd O/S
Paz 29/Nov/06 AltLd rpt

Lead P2.

with TI
Paz 30/Jun/06 AltLd rpt
with TS
Marcus ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
Ally Smith 15/Jul/04 AltLd
Paz 15/Jul/04 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 (E1 5b? but nicer)

with AS
Hidden 10/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??/2004 -
KRB 07/Apr/02 Lead β

An enjoyable route on a good line.

with Chris & Martin
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
DavidBarraclough ??/1999 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 08/May/95 AltLd
with tombawimba
chris sm 14/Mar/95 2nd O/S
with Andy Gill
Roget 02/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with jon
Okecroak 15/Nov/93 2nd
with I Butler
clark alston ?/May/91 Lead O/S
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead
frank ramsay ?/Nov/88 Solo

Solo. Seemed OK. Then 22 years later I lead it and was very worried.

jon 15/Oct/88 Lead
with H
Pete Nugent 19/Jul/88 AltLd O/S

led p1. E2 5b,5b in Steve Monks (1980/81?)guide

with Andrew Tobin
adriandesouza ?/May/87 Lead O/S
Nigel Coe 03/Jan/87 2nd
Hidden ??/1987 -
Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily
JamieAyres ??/1985 2nd dog
with Graham Aveyard
duncan ?/Sep/84 Solo rpt
andy gittins ??/1983 -
stp 18/Apr/82 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1982 AltLd
duncan ?/Aug/81 AltLd O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1981 -
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Steve Lewis 08/Jan/78 AltLd
with Phil Thomas, sharpie
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 12
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set