Rockfax Description
A stunning pitch for the rock athlete. Its first ascent was immortalised in an early climbing film with Ron Fawcett's, "Come on arms, do your stuff!" Take plenty of short thin slings and sky hooks to add to the limited protection. Start 3m right of Cenotaph Corner and climb the thin vertical cracks. Where they run out, continue direct to a series of thin ledges. Traverse right along these (here, a skilful climber can lasso a spike with their foot!) to dangerous moves up to a pocket. From the pocket, head up more easily for a short while until a go-ey few moves lead to another pocket with a runner and a nut out to the right. Move up and right to gain better holds that bring you to the Girdle Ledge. Thin moves up from here lead to a finger ledge that leads up to a faint groove. Follow this past a good wire, moving left to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, North Wales Super Route E6's, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Mike and Connors 2 year plan, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Lifetime List, Stanners lifetime Onsight list (because what else is there to do?)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
hugo glover ?Aug, 1997 Show βeta
βeta: First E6 onsite - Memory Lane to warm up then off I set. no clue about gear - only got a limp sling in the first port hole, very glad to get to the second one. wet at the top section but nothing was going to stop me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First E6 onsite - Memory Lane to warm up then off I set. no clue about gear - only got a limp sling in the first port hole, very glad to get to the second one. wet at the top section but nothing was going to stop me.
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Ellis Bird 18 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Excellent and intense climb for both me and the belayer. Another big tick of the list!
Excellent and intense climb for both me and the belayer. Another big tick of the list!
Hidden 5 May, 2018 2nd
Hidden 5 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Katekeltie 13 Jul, 2017 2nd Seconded Caff. First ever route on the Cromlech, blown away by the quality of the climbing. Amazing climbing.
Seconded Caff. First ever route on the Cromlech, blown away by the quality of the climbing. Amazing climbing.
Tom Livingstone 20 Jun, 2017 2nd dog Drongo mistake
with Ben Silvestre, J.Taylor
Drongo mistake
with Ben Silvestre, J.Taylor
Hidden 20 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone 9 Jun, 2016 Lead rpt
with Yann Genoux
with Yann Genoux
anguskille 2 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Awesome! Pretty bold climbing, worked hard to find all the little bits of marginal gear but exciting committing to good moves above it. I belayed Ed on it 2 years ago but couldn't remember anything - had to study the guide beforehand and it felt like an onsight!
with Rich Gentry
Awesome! Pretty bold climbing, worked hard to find all the little bits of marginal gear but exciting committing to good moves above it. I belayed Ed on it 2 years ago but couldn't remember anything - had to study the guide beforehand and it felt like an onsight!
with Rich Gentry
Ed morris 27 May, 2016 Lead O/S Didn't get too scared, was having too much fun!
Didn't get too scared, was having too much fun!
Hidden ??, 2016 -
ejected 3 Oct, 2015 Lead β Checked the gear on ab after doing Rightwall then led it.
Checked the gear on ab after doing Rightwall then led it.
badwithnames 19 Sep, 2015 Solo O/S
Hidden 9 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2015 -
phil64 ??, 2015 -
nathanlee 21 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Perfect end to summer! Chalked which undoubtedly helps, but felt onsight enough! Should be on everyones list.
with Henry Francis
Perfect end to summer! Chalked which undoubtedly helps, but felt onsight enough! Should be on everyones list.
with Henry Francis
piken 13 Sep, 2014 Lead Megga - Andy checked out the gear - and it was chalked up - dry, no midges, no excuses! Save something for the top!
Megga - Andy checked out the gear - and it was chalked up - dry, no midges, no excuses! Save something for the top!
Hidden 12 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S What a route! An amazing experience, full on right from the start. The lower half is quite mentally taxing but the top headwall is amazing. A milestone, one which I won't forget for a while. Totally unchalked.
with Dave Evans
What a route! An amazing experience, full on right from the start. The lower half is quite mentally taxing but the top headwall is amazing. A milestone, one which I won't forget for a while. Totally unchalked.
with Dave Evans
Ed Booth 16 Jun, 2014 Lead β Had abbed in the past and looked at kit to see how dodgy bottom bit is. Glad I did as it made me get on it and it's so good. Bottom third is necky. basically just hooks and a quick sprint up to the first big pocket and kit. Upper wall amazing!
Had abbed in the past and looked at kit to see how dodgy bottom bit is. Glad I did as it made me get on it and it's so good. Bottom third is necky. basically just hooks and a quick sprint up to the first big pocket and kit. Upper wall amazing!
Hidden 15 Jun, 2014 Lead G/U
Hidden ??, 2014 2nd
malx ?Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Lots of upping and downing. cheers for the patient belay Pete!
Lots of upping and downing. cheers for the patient belay Pete!
Mike Goldthorp 24 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Stunning! Just unbelievable, how can a piece of rock climb so well and have such perfectly adequate gear placements! I thought some of the gear around the early crux might hold a fall, but the climbing is too good to fall off! Had watched Will and George on it the day before so had some idea on gear and where I was going (it was also well chalked) but it takes so much route-reading and foothold finding while your on it that it feels like an onsight regardless.
Stunning! Just unbelievable, how can a piece of rock climb so well and have such perfectly adequate gear placements! I thought some of the gear around the early crux might hold a fall, but the climbing is too good to fall off! Had watched Will and George on it the day before so had some idea on gear and where I was going (it was also well chalked) but it takes so much route-reading and foothold finding while your on it that it feels like an onsight regardless.
Keendan 8 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf Didn't feel right. Was getting more pumped than I expected to, so reversed to the ground. Should stay dry for a while though, maybe it will go soon!
with Brad
Didn't feel right. Was getting more pumped than I expected to, so reversed to the ground. Should stay dry for a while though, maybe it will go soon!
with Brad
jacobjacob 22 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Intense. I was properly scared on this, an experience I will remember for a long time, just brilliant.
Intense. I was properly scared on this, an experience I will remember for a long time, just brilliant.
alaan 1 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Blooming fantastic. Climbed in a roasting heat (not complaining), and without a speck of chalk to follow, which added to the sense of adventure considerably.
Blooming fantastic. Climbed in a roasting heat (not complaining), and without a speck of chalk to follow, which added to the sense of adventure considerably.
Steve Crowe 26 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S Karin belayed me when I led Lord in 1998 but she did not second me back then. I was impressed by Karin's lead today as it was very warm. Great to climb Lord again this time in comfort as her second!
with karin
Karin belayed me when I led Lord in 1998 but she did not second me back then. I was impressed by Karin's lead today as it was very warm. Great to climb Lord again this time in comfort as her second!
with karin
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Jack Geldard ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2011 Lead Let go of the finishing holds, what an idiot. Came back the next day to finish it off.
Let go of the finishing holds, what an idiot. Came back the next day to finish it off.
Luke Brooks 18 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 May, 2010 2nd
Alex Mason 16 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Just perfect. First E6, first time on an E6. Up to the second pocket is really serious, unless you could arange something in the old peg slot, (and the crux!) After that well protected run-outs and sustained climbing on finger jugs and crimps. Had to traverse into right wall on the girdle ledge to take my new boots off for a while. 7a. PSYCHED!!!!!
Just perfect. First E6, first time on an E6. Up to the second pocket is really serious, unless you could arange something in the old peg slot, (and the crux!) After that well protected run-outs and sustained climbing on finger jugs and crimps. Had to traverse into right wall on the girdle ledge to take my new boots off for a while. 7a. PSYCHED!!!!!
JulesV 27 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S Just brilliant!
with Shauna Cunningham
Just brilliant!
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 18 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Glyn 17 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
with Tony Stone
with Tony Stone
centurion05 ?Sep, 2009 2nd dog
tuftynick 24 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Sep, 2008 Lead β
Hidden 15 May, 2008 2nd O/S
Brown 14 May, 2008 2nd
with Various International meet
with Various International meet
IOAN D 7 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Mills
with Mills
Jon Garside ?May, 2004 Lead O/S
sadams 30 Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 2 Aug, 1999 Lead dnf
Jon Read ?Jul, 1999 2nd Nick actually made it look hard: he fell off! (he had onsighted it prior to this ascent though)
Nick actually made it look hard: he fell off! (he had onsighted it prior to this ascent though)
Roget 16 Jun, 1999 Lead dnf faffed for too long, scary fall.
with baccy
faffed for too long, scary fall.
with baccy
Steve Crowe 22 May, 1998 Lead O/S Belayer did not follow. (Karin led Right Wall instead)
with karin
Belayer did not follow. (Karin led Right Wall instead)
with karin
Si Witcher ??, 1998 Lead O/S
hugo glover ?Aug, 1997 Lead O/S First E6 onsite - Memory Lane to warm up then off I set. no clue about gear - only got a limp sling in the first port hole, very glad to get to the second one. wet at the top section but nothing was going to stop me.
First E6 onsite - Memory Lane to warm up then off I set. no clue about gear - only got a limp sling in the first port hole, very glad to get to the second one. wet at the top section but nothing was going to stop me.
Paul Platt 7 May, 1997 Lead G/U one fall
one fall
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11 Apr, 1997 Lead O/S pumped!
with Muir Morton
pumped!
with Muir Morton
phardman ??, 1997 -
bazza ?Jul, 1996 -
with Matt Halls
with Matt Halls
Seymore Butt ??, 1995 2nd
with Keith Macgregor
with Keith Macgregor
keefe ??, 1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??, 1995 -
with keefe
with keefe
UKB Shark 7 Aug, 1994 Lead rpt Brilliant route. Returned to it and led it clean and in control although found it scary for first 40 feet. This was in contrast to the epic battle I had on it a few years previous to that where I ended up taking falls above the girdle and being top roped up the last bit not having the right bombproof runner for the top.
with John Codling
Brilliant route. Returned to it and led it clean and in control although found it scary for first 40 feet. This was in contrast to the epic battle I had on it a few years previous to that where I ended up taking falls above the girdle and being top roped up the last bit not having the right bombproof runner for the top.
with John Codling
jfletcher 1 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
with Alan Steele, Nick Wharton
with Alan Steele, Nick Wharton
TCP ?Jul, 1994 Lead O/S Serious up to 50ft then a long route after
with Al bennett
Serious up to 50ft then a long route after
with Al bennett
Eduardo Martinez 11 Jun, 1994 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 1993 Lead
Hidden 27 Jun, 1992 Lead β
Chris Wright 30 May, 1991 Lead O/S
Matt Clifton ?Jul, 1990 Lead O/S would have cried if i'd fallen off the top
with Helen
would have cried if i'd fallen off the top
with Helen
Steve Walker 1 Apr, 1990 Lead Fell of last move, did second go. But hey first ascent without the peg and wet crux.
with paul entwistle
Fell of last move, did second go. But hey first ascent without the peg and wet crux.
with paul entwistle
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Hidden ??, 1990 2nd
Mike Owen 24 Jul, 1989 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 20 May, 1988 Lead O/S
robyn1 ??, 1988 -
keefe 6 Jul, 1986 -
with Johnny Adams
with Johnny Adams
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1986 Lead O/S
with Johnny Dawes
with Johnny Dawes
Hidden ??, 1985 Lead
Mike Owen 12 Jul, 1983 Lead O/S
with Pete Chadwick, Harold Walmsley
with Pete Chadwick, Harold Walmsley
dominic lee ??, 1982 Lead Went smoothly this time. Took a long fall from above the girdle the previous year...Terminally pumped.
with daniel lee
Went smoothly this time. Took a long fall from above the girdle the previous year...Terminally pumped.
with daniel lee
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Style of ascent
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DNF
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Ground Up
Not Set