UKC

Rockfax Description
A stunning pitch for the rock athlete. Its first ascent was immortalised in an early climbing film with Ron Fawcett's, "Come on arms, do your stuff!" Take plenty of short thin slings and sky hooks to add to the limited protection. Start 3m right of Cenotaph Corner and climb the thin vertical cracks. Where they run out, continue direct to a series of thin ledges. Traverse right along these (here, a skilful climber can lasso a spike with their foot!) to dangerous moves up to a pocket. From the pocket, head up more easily for a short while until a go-ey few moves lead to another pocket with a runner and a nut out to the right. Move up and right to gain better holds that bring you to the Girdle Ledge. Thin moves up from here lead to a finger ledge that leads up to a faint groove. Follow this past a good wire, moving left to finish. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Super Route E6's, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Mike and Connors 2 year plan, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Lifetime List, Stanners lifetime Onsight list (because what else is there to do?).


ClimberDateStyle
Ellis Bird 18/Jul Lead O/S

Excellent and intense climb for both me and the belayer. Another big tick of the list!

Hidden 05/May 2nd
Hidden 05/May Lead O/S
Katekeltie 13/Jul/17 2nd

Seconded Caff. First ever route on the Cromlech, blown away by the quality of the climbing. Amazing climbing.

Tom Livingstone 20/Jun/17 2nd dog

Drongo mistake

with Ben Silvestre, J.Taylor
Hidden 20/Jun/17 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone 09/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Yann Genoux
anguskille 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Awesome! Pretty bold climbing, worked hard to find all the little bits of marginal gear but exciting committing to good moves above it. I belayed Ed on it 2 years ago but couldn't remember anything - had to study the guide beforehand and it felt like an onsight!

with Rich Gentry
Ed morris 27/May/16 Lead O/S

Didn't get too scared, was having too much fun!

Hidden ??/2016 -
ejected 03/Oct/15 Lead β

Checked the gear on ab after doing Rightwall then led it.

kaoschosen 19/Sep/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
phil64 ??/2015 -
nathanlee 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Perfect end to summer! Chalked which undoubtedly helps, but felt onsight enough! Should be on everyones list.

with Henry Francis
piken 13/Sep/14 Lead

Megga - Andy checked out the gear - and it was chalked up - dry, no midges, no excuses! Save something for the top!

Hidden 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

What a route! An amazing experience, full on right from the start. The lower half is quite mentally taxing but the top headwall is amazing. A milestone, one which I won't forget for a while. Totally unchalked.

with Dave Evans
Ed Booth 16/Jun/14 Lead β

Had abbed in the past and looked at kit to see how dodgy bottom bit is. Glad I did as it made me get on it and it's so good. Bottom third is necky. basically just hooks and a quick sprint up to the first big pocket and kit. Upper wall amazing!

Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead G/U
Hidden ??/2014 2nd
malx ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Lots of upping and downing. cheers for the patient belay Pete!

Mike Goldthorp 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Stunning! Just unbelievable, how can a piece of rock climb so well and have such perfectly adequate gear placements! I thought some of the gear around the early crux might hold a fall, but the climbing is too good to fall off! Had watched Will and George on it the day before so had some idea on gear and where I was going (it was also well chalked) but it takes so much route-reading and foothold finding while your on it that it feels like an onsight regardless.

Keendan 08/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Didn't feel right. Was getting more pumped than I expected to, so reversed to the ground. Should stay dry for a while though, maybe it will go soon!

with Brad
jacobjacob 22/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Intense. I was properly scared on this, an experience I will remember for a long time, just brilliant.

alaan 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Blooming fantastic. Climbed in a roasting heat (not complaining), and without a speck of chalk to follow, which added to the sense of adventure considerably.

Steve Crowe 26/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Karin belayed me when I led Lord in 1998 but she did not second me back then. I was impressed by Karin's lead today as it was very warm. Great to climb Lord again this time in comfort as her second!

with karin
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Jack Geldard ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2011 Lead

Let go of the finishing holds, what an idiot. Came back the next day to finish it off.

Luke Brooks 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/10 2nd
Alex Mason 16/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Just perfect. First E6, first time on an E6. Up to the second pocket is really serious, unless you could arange something in the old peg slot, (and the crux!) After that well protected run-outs and sustained climbing on finger jugs and crimps. Had to traverse into right wall on the girdle ledge to take my new boots off for a while. 7a. PSYCHED!!!!!

JulesV 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Just brilliant!

with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 18/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Glyn 17/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Tony Stone
centurion05 ?/Sep/09 2nd dog
tuftynick 24/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/08 Lead β
Hidden 15/May/08 2nd O/S
Brown 14/May/08 2nd
with Various International meet
IOAN D 07/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mills
Jon Garside ?/May/04 Lead O/S
sadams 30/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Eric Hildrew
Hidden 02/Aug/99 Lead dnf
Jon Read ?/Jul/99 2nd

Nick actually made it look hard: he fell off! (he had onsighted it prior to this ascent though)

Roget 16/Jun/99 Lead dnf

faffed for too long, scary fall.

with baccy
Steve Crowe 22/May/98 Lead O/S

Belayer did not follow. (Karin led Right Wall instead)

with karin
Si Witcher ??/1998 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 11/Apr/97 Lead O/S

pumped!

with Muir Morton
phardman ??/1997 -
bazza ?/Jul/96 -
with Matt Halls
Seymore Butt ??/1995 2nd
with Keith Macgregor
keefe ??/1995 -
Glenn Sutcliffe ??/1995 -
with keefe
UKB Shark 07/Aug/94 Lead rpt

Brilliant route. Returned to it and led it clean and in control although found it scary for first 40 feet. This was in contrast to the epic battle I had on it a few years previous to that where I ended up taking falls above the girdle and being top roped up the last bit not having the right bombproof runner for the top.

with John Codling
jfletcher 01/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Alan Steele, Nick Wharton
Graeme Smithy ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S

Serious up to 50ft then a long route after

with Al bennett
Eduardo Martinez 11/Jun/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/93 Lead
Hidden 27/Jun/92 Lead β
Chris Wright 30/May/91 Lead O/S
Steve Walker 01/Apr/90 Lead

Fell of last move, did second go. But hey first ascent without the peg and wet crux.

with paul entwistle
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
donie ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 2nd
Mike Owen 24/Jul/89 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
jon 20/May/88 Lead O/S

Luckily Perry was very patient. More patient than the other two waiting at the bottom who gave up and went home...

with perry hawkins
robyn1 ??/1988 -
keefe 06/Jul/86 -
with Johnny Adams
mark mcgowan01 ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Johnny Dawes
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/84 -
Mike Owen 12/Jul/83 Lead O/S
with Pete Chadwick, Harold Walmsley
dominic lee ??/1982 Lead

Went smoothly this time. Took a long fall from above the girdle the previous year...Terminally pumped.

with daniel lee
Hidden ??/1973 -
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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 19
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set