Rockfax Description
The towering face right of the arete is taken centrally by this superb and sustained route. Start just to the left of the large corner at the base of the face.
1) 6a, 18m. Move up to and climb a thin crack and wall to a bolt. Pass the bolt leftwards via some fingery moves to a thin horizontal break. Traverse left with difficulty and move up a tiny corner to a good crack, then climb up it to the next set of ledges. Move left to a belay on the arete as for New Horizons.
2) 5c, 20m. Move back right and climb a short crack and wall above the stance to a thread (thin sling needed). Continue in the same line up a little corner, peg, to a prominent peg on the right. Climb past the peg to a lighter band of rock and a peg on the left below a small white corner. Climb the wall right of the white corner, past a peg, to the top. © Rockfax

M Corbett, S Bell (AL) 29/Apr/1981

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

J_Spooner ?/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Ben Smart, Will Birkett
Mark Stevenson 21/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 21/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with Mark Stevenson
Hidden 09/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Pippa 04/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Matthew Thompson
Hidden 28/Jul/16 AltLd dnf
Alex Mason 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Done in one long pitch. Hard crux section. Top pitch is brill.

with Jemma Powell, Fingers, George Ullrich
London Luke 11/Jul/15 2nd
with David R
Bristoldave 11/Jul/15 Lead dog
with LukeW
Alex Winter 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch, which has some good fingery climbing on it, but also a bit of dusty and crumbly rock. Second pitch is immense.

with Nick
Nick Russell 17/May/14 AltLd dog

Came off the traverse on P1, a bit disappointed. Led top pitch, which was ace! Steady climbing, tricky to read but really good holds. Route finding isn't too hard - just follow the pegs!

eddy-on-the-rocks 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with max
HarryB 19/Sep/12 2nd dog

1 rest, came off moving into the rest after the traverse, pumped!

with Ross
Hidden 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
richiebongo 28/Aug/12 AltLd RP

Hooray, grew balls and lead the 1st pitch!

with Luis Paspas
richiebongo 03/Aug/12 Lead dog

Got pumped on the traverse and ended up hanging from the peg.

with Nick Smith
Billg 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Bob Brewer
gazhbo 16/May/12 AltLd O/S

Cried like a baby all the way up the second pitch, and was not even consoled when I reached the shiny new peg. Lovely jubbly though.

j miller 25/Mar/12 2nd O/S
billb ?/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Mike S
Aaron Lines 22/May/11 2nd O/S
msoldn 09/May/11 AltLd O/S

What a gem, and I though that I'd ticked them all off! Seconded p1 which seemed pretty straight forward until the sudden pump sequence going through the travers. Led p2 which provided some nice and steady steep climbing with a feeling of full exposure.

with Will
Hidden 01/Apr/11 Lead RP
LisaA 09/Sep/10 2nd dog
with Marti
thomasadixon 28/Aug/10 AltLd RP

Fell off 1st pitch then pulled ropes and got it clean, nails at e3! V good climbing!

Ed Babs 28/Aug/10 AltLd O/S


Hidden ?/Jul/09 2nd dog
Marti999 03/Jun/08 Lead
pezzerrr 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S

one big pitch

Hidden 29/May/06 AltLd rpt
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Paz 13/Apr/05 AltLd O/S

Only onsighted P2 which nonetheless is excellent.

with AS
Ally Smith 13/Apr/05 AltLd
richsmithinbristol ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S

Alex Jakobek led top pitch?

Hidden 01/Feb/05 Lead RP
tom.e ??/2005 2nd dog
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Adam Mulholland
John Southworth 02/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
KRB 04/Nov/99 AltLd O/S

This tall blond youth with glasses was dischuffed his partner hadn't turned up so I stood in. He looked like a V.Diff climber - until he set off! I didn't know who he was, but was pleased that I'd ditched my old Whillans harness only the previous week. Good climb - particularly the 2nd pitch.

with Dave Pickford
Hidden ??/1999 Lead RP
lowersharpnose 11/May/94 Lead O/S

The traverse is pumpy.

with Adam
pete johnson 02/Jan/91 AltLd
with Andy Tallant
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead
Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
Steve Bell 29/Apr/81 AltLd β
with Martin Corbett
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 20
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set