470m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(The West Pillar Direct) Although long called Vestpillaren this popular and brilliant climb only includes four pitches of the original line - see historical details on page 160 - but has become Lofoten's 'must-do' route, and it is worth the effort involved. The normal ascent time is 6 to 8 hours, although an efficient team can do it in less. Begin about 20m to the left of a steep water-washed gully filled with grass and some loose blocks, up the central one of three shallow corners.
Photos on cover and pages 165, 172 and 181.
1) N5+, 45m. Climb up a right-slanting groove for 15m, then traverse left 10m across an easy ledge to a nice crack which leads to a small ledge with a chain to the right.
2) N6-, 40m. Start up a small groove, followed by more broken ground leading to a flake/block on the left. Climb this, then make a hard move up into a thin finger-crack which leads to easier climbing up a crack to a fixed belay.
3) N6, 50m. Climb straight up the narrow groove (hard but safe) by thin finger-jamming and laybacking. At its top, head left up a diagonal ramp which leads to a fixed belay and small stance.
4) N5-, 20m. Head up a short wall and groove then easy slabs to a fixed belay on the right edge of Storhylla - the last fixed gear.
5) N4, 20m. Move right across the ledge, climb cracks up the right side of the huge block to a belay on its top.
6) N6-, 45m. Climb straight up thin cracks/grooves to a good ledge, then traverse 20m left (some rope drag and loose rock) to a belay on a higher ledge below a superb looking groove.
7) N6, 45m. Difficult moves lead up the groove. Follow the flake until it becomes a thin crack, then step left into a parallel crack system. Climb up the sustained crack into a left-facing groove and take a semi-hanging belay above a bulge in the corner.
8) N5+, 40m. Continue laybacking up the groove then head right up an easier slabby groove and belay on either of two ledges at the base of the 'Slanting Corner'.
9) N6, 40m. Layback and jam the right-leaning groove (sustained and awkward, especially with a sack on), to a tiny ledge. Continue up left then back right (or up the thin vertical crack on the right - harder) and belay up right at a block.
10) N4+, 30m. Climb up and left across ledges to a large loose flake jammed in a groove. Climb carefully up and right past the flake, then continue left up a chimney groove to reach a small belay ledge with several blocks.
11) N5, 35m. Follow the open groove up and right to its top, then move down and right for several metres, before traversing horizontally right. Make delicate moves around right into the grassy exit gully.
12) N3, 55m. Scramble up the grassy gully to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50, Lofoten Mid Grade Routes

Feedback

UserDateNotes
hlegge 22 Jul Show βeta
βeta: No real descent description in rockfax guide. From top walk up the ridge following obvious path. Do a couple of airy scrambles. When path crosses obvious col and hasn’t it’s first split you need to take right hand option. Although it goes uphill it is the way to the main walking path back down to the Gandalf car park.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No real descent description in rockfax guide. From top walk up the ridge following obvious path. Do a couple of airy scrambles. When path crosses obvious col and hasn’t it’s first split you need to take right hand option. Although it goes uphill it is the way to the main walking path back down to the Gandalf car park.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
mBob8 23 Aug AltLd rpt Just as good as the first time! Overtook two parties of three. 7hrs
Just as good as the first time! Overtook two parties of three. 7hrs
Siljesel 10 Aug -
with Sindre Haverstad
with Sindre Haverstad
jeremy 7 Aug AltLd
with Martin, olekemi
with Martin, olekemi
olekemi 7 Aug AltLd O/S For sure one of the better days! First team on after a semi-early start, and did not see other teams until looking back from Festvagtinden, after a nice scramble over the ridges.
with Martin F, jeremy
For sure one of the better days! First team on after a semi-early start, and did not see other teams until looking back from Festvagtinden, after a nice scramble over the ridges.
with Martin F, jeremy
tcn_2002 27 Jul AltLd
pearson9596 27 Jul AltLd O/S
cki 27 Jul 2nd
hlegge 18 Jul AltLd O/S Phenomenal route. Very busy so we started up the original line bypassing 3 teams and joining the main line at the top of pitch 4. The grade 5 and 5+ pitches were excellent. I lead all pitches bar 10 and 12. Climbing was gorgeous. Almost came off the crux on pitch 7 when my feet slipped, but good finger locks caught me! Certainly a heart in mouth moment! Lost a big chunk of my right index finger on the slanting corner when the nut I was pull testing came out and I punched the wall... walk off was a good two hours. Thank god for the advice in camp to always take the right hand path option as we almost went to the wrong way when we got to an uphill right hand option. But stick right! 12 hours day. Great to climb with Melanie!!!
Phenomenal route. Very busy so we started up the original line bypassing 3 teams and joining the main line at the top of pitch 4. The grade 5 and 5+ pitches were excellent. I lead all pitches bar 10 and 12. Climbing was gorgeous. Almost came off the crux on pitch 7 when my feet slipped, but good finger locks caught me! Certainly a heart in mouth moment! Lost a big chunk of my right index finger on the slanting corner when the nut I was pull testing came out and I punched the wall... walk off was a good two hours. Thank god for the advice in camp to always take the right hand path option as we almost went to the wrong way when we got to an uphill right hand option. But stick right! 12 hours day. Great to climb with Melanie!!!
tom.wp6 14 Jul AltLd O/S Middle 3 pitches
Middle 3 pitches
dbottomley 14 Jul AltLd
with tom.wp6
with tom.wp6
afronomad 10 Jul -
Chris Hindley 10 Jul AltLd Well travelled classic. Exit and descent was bit exhausting on a hot afternoon, note the good Feedback from hlegge
with pw
Well travelled classic. Exit and descent was bit exhausting on a hot afternoon, note the good Feedback from hlegge
with pw
David Craig 8 Jul AltLd rpt
with Sile Daly
with Sile Daly
davkeo 8 Jul AltLd O/S A real quality & sustained route. Better & harder than anticipated. Led odds. Found the crux on p7 desperate but managed it by the skin of my teeth. Multi pitch trad at its finest. Awful rope tangles all day.
A real quality & sustained route. Better & harder than anticipated. Led odds. Found the crux on p7 desperate but managed it by the skin of my teeth. Multi pitch trad at its finest. Awful rope tangles all day.
Hidden 8 Jul AltLd O/S
lars.erik.grande 7 Jul -
Psk94 7 Jul Lead O/S
with Lars Erik Grande
with Lars Erik Grande
JagoNeath 5 Jul AltLd Lead pitches 2, 4, 5, 7, 9 and 12
Lead pitches 2, 4, 5, 7, 9 and 12
LotteM 2 Jul -
mantasvilunas 1 Jul AltLd Jeg ledet 10 tau lengder ,Erik ledet nr 2 o 4
with Erik friedland
Jeg ledet 10 tau lengder ,Erik ledet nr 2 o 4
with Erik friedland
smelliedebs ?Jul AltLd With Wes, this time, still just led the 6- pitches but excellent climbing altho the rain on the last few pitches made it a bit more exciting!!!
with Wes
With Wes, this time, still just led the 6- pitches but excellent climbing altho the rain on the last few pitches made it a bit more exciting!!!
with Wes
smelliedebs ?Jul AltLd Led even pitches (6-)
with Adrian
Led even pitches (6-)
with Adrian
derekwwl 15 Jun AltLd dog Lead even pitches clean but took a fall on P7 and P9.
Lead even pitches clean but took a fall on P7 and P9.
crossleysm 15 Jun AltLd O/S Superb day out
with Dale Colver
Superb day out
with Dale Colver
AidanMorris 15 Jun AltLd dog Fell on 7th and 9th pitch.
Fell on 7th and 9th pitch.
Ivar S 9 Jun AltLd β Fikk de lette lengdene
with Geir
Fikk de lette lengdene
with Geir
Ivar S 9 Jun AltLd β Fikk de lette lengdene
with Geir
Fikk de lette lengdene
with Geir
ThunderBeest 30 May AltLd rpt Harder than I remembered.
with Rune
Harder than I remembered.
with Rune
Chma1 18 May AltLd
with Gjøran Hansen
with Gjøran Hansen
leopolian 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf Bailed on the middle n6 pitch. To me it felt at least a grade harder than the other n6 pitch and definitely harder than the other n6s we'd done this trip. Was so disappointed as we'd waited so long to try it but it was just a bit too much on the day! Will be back!
with Naomi.P
Bailed on the middle n6 pitch. To me it felt at least a grade harder than the other n6 pitch and definitely harder than the other n6s we'd done this trip. Was so disappointed as we'd waited so long to try it but it was just a bit too much on the day! Will be back!
with Naomi.P
Naomi.P 28 Aug, 2018 AltLd dnf We spent the last two weeks waiting for the rain to stop so absolutely gutted we didn’t make it in the end. I lead p4,5,6. Leo lead p1,2,3 and tried p7. P6 was tricky but lovely climbing and there was just enough to make it doable and protected. Pitches 3 and 7 just felt harder than we’d been expecting- trickier than other N6s around- Tromso, Gamle Rev and Lundeklubben. Cruxes were much more like the hard move on Pizza Thief but repeated and with extra exposure. I was due to lead the slanting corner so super disappointed to miss out but we just weren’t enjoying it and were holding up others. Abbed from the block at the p7 belay. 50m ropes just about got us to the ledge with chains.
We spent the last two weeks waiting for the rain to stop so absolutely gutted we didn’t make it in the end. I lead p4,5,6. Leo lead p1,2,3 and tried p7. P6 was tricky but lovely climbing and there was just enough to make it doable and protected. Pitches 3 and 7 just felt harder than we’d been expecting- trickier than other N6s around- Tromso, Gamle Rev and Lundeklubben. Cruxes were much more like the hard move on Pizza Thief but repeated and with extra exposure. I was due to lead the slanting corner so super disappointed to miss out but we just weren’t enjoying it and were holding up others. Abbed from the block at the p7 belay. 50m ropes just about got us to the ledge with chains.
Q.Estelles 7 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Amazing! Best trad route ever done!
with adam088
Amazing! Best trad route ever done!
with adam088
garywong 7 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Amazing route with long pitches of well-protected technical climbing. Definite highlight of the trip. I led pitches 2,4,5,7&9. Dan led an N6 pitch of the Codfather rather than P10/11 for added excitement!
Amazing route with long pitches of well-protected technical climbing. Definite highlight of the trip. I led pitches 2,4,5,7&9. Dan led an N6 pitch of the Codfather rather than P10/11 for added excitement!
DanC1985 7 Aug, 2018 AltLd Climbed the second to last pitch of ‘Codfather’ (N6) instead of the normal route (N5+)
with Gary
Climbed the second to last pitch of ‘Codfather’ (N6) instead of the normal route (N5+)
with Gary
adam088 7 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P's 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12
Led P's 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12
jasewilson ?Aug, 2018 -
thomb 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd Fantastic! Busy.
with Harry
Fantastic! Busy.
with Harry
petecallaghan 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P3, 7, 8, 11 Fell on crux of P3 and P7 but climbed clean after falling. Amazing route
Lead P3, 7, 8, 11 Fell on crux of P3 and P7 but climbed clean after falling. Amazing route
James Nutter 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Seriously hot and dehydrating.
Seriously hot and dehydrating.
timreynolds 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Just the best
Just the best
EllieWoods 26 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S Just led the easy pitches
Just led the easy pitches
eddy-on-the-rocks 22 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Marti999 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S At last perfect weather. Great line.
At last perfect weather. Great line.
Niels Pelabon 23 Jun, 2018 -
ian hendy 12 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Climbed as 5 so took longer than 8 hour's. I led n4-n5+ pitches. Pitch 11 is not n5, n6 ish. Great climb. Epic day, and night!
with Charlie Chambers , Stephen Ashworth , Darren Swift, Chris marlow
Climbed as 5 so took longer than 8 hour's. I led n4-n5+ pitches. Pitch 11 is not n5, n6 ish. Great climb. Epic day, and night!
with Charlie Chambers , Stephen Ashworth , Darren Swift, Chris marlow
El Swiftos! 12 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S A fantastic route that just keeps giving!!
with charlie , Stephen Ashworth, Ian Hendy , marl
A fantastic route that just keeps giving!!
with charlie , Stephen Ashworth, Ian Hendy , marl
Marl 12 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Such a fantastic climb. I led 4 pitches 1, 3, 6 & 9 which were all really great. Late start waiting for weather to brighten so enjoyed the descent along with the midnight Sun. Brilliant company to enjoy the moments with
with Charlie, Swifty
Such a fantastic climb. I led 4 pitches 1, 3, 6 & 9 which were all really great. Late start waiting for weather to brighten so enjoyed the descent along with the midnight Sun. Brilliant company to enjoy the moments with
with Charlie, Swifty
Guy Arnold 7 Jun, 2018 AltLd Bloody brilliant. Almost all pitches are great. Slanting corner is a b*gger if you fail to move out onto the face at 2/3rds height... Don’t belay from chains on first pitch!
Bloody brilliant. Almost all pitches are great. Slanting corner is a b*gger if you fail to move out onto the face at 2/3rds height... Don’t belay from chains on first pitch!
hannahlee15 7 Jun, 2018 AltLd Led pitches (1 previously), 2, 4, 5, 6, 11, 12. 2pm-2am top out (car to car 1pm-5am) Dogged pitch 9 as second (one legitimate fall due to foot slip), Foot slip pitch 7
Led pitches (1 previously), 2, 4, 5, 6, 11, 12. 2pm-2am top out (car to car 1pm-5am) Dogged pitch 9 as second (one legitimate fall due to foot slip), Foot slip pitch 7
Hidden ?Sep, 2017 2nd
Miki the Red 25 Aug, 2017 -
HansStuttgart 13 Aug, 2017 - Simply amazing
Simply amazing
HansStuttgart 13 Aug, 2017 - better than luna nascente!
better than luna nascente!
fuzzysheep01 4 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Utterly superb and never that hard. Started early doors so had the route to ourselves. 8.5 hours. Topped out for lunch and a swim in the lake. Pitch 7 = phenomenally good.
with Nono
Utterly superb and never that hard. Started early doors so had the route to ourselves. 8.5 hours. Topped out for lunch and a swim in the lake. Pitch 7 = phenomenally good.
with Nono
Nono 4 Aug, 2017 2nd
yakov 27 Jul, 2017 AltLd Led P2, 5, 6, 9 and 11. All free.
Led P2, 5, 6, 9 and 11. All free.
Ilia Nadyrbayev 22 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf
with Kirill
with Kirill
Kirill 22 Jul, 2017 AltLd dnf Abseiled off after P3.
Abseiled off after P3.
Rharrison 20 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
EspenK 20 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S With Rory and Erik Fruktsalat. One crux each, I led first one. 9hrs on the royte, including some waiting (but less than expected!)
With Rory and Erik Fruktsalat. One crux each, I led first one. 9hrs on the royte, including some waiting (but less than expected!)
AngelaC 20 Jul, 2017 AltLd Led pitches 1, 4, 5, 8.10 What an amazing climb possibly my best ever! We had to queue to start for nearly 2 hours but meant we topped out and descended in the Midnight sun - epic day (and half a night!)
Led pitches 1, 4, 5, 8.10 What an amazing climb possibly my best ever! We had to queue to start for nearly 2 hours but meant we topped out and descended in the Midnight sun - epic day (and half a night!)
Hidden 3 Jul, 2017 AltLd β
Hidden ?Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Jun, 2017 AltLd
torroseth@gmail.com 5 Jun, 2017 -
JonasHS 4 Jun, 2017 2nd 4 første taulengdene
with Brennan NT, Gry Einrem
4 første taulengdene
with Brennan NT, Gry Einrem
islandlynx 1 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Led odd pitches. Great day out. Amazing route, so many of the pitches are packed with quality climbing for 40-50 metres. Loads of laybacks so my legs were sore the next day (my technique is awful). Really enjoyed the slabby groove on pitch 6, the stemming at the start of pitch 7 and of course the slanting corner. The run out on pitch 11 added some flavour to the route. The grassy gully pitch 12 was soaked, muddy and the only negative. Started in the afternoon for full sun coverage, topped out to an amazing midnight sun at about 01:00. About 9 hours on the climb (not rushing) and 12.5 hours car to car. The views from the top were incredible. Having come to Norway to climb Hollenderan on Kvaloya and then got snowed off this was a very good substitute. Will probably get back on it again some day. No pitch is above E1 but low E2 together is probably fair.
with Matt77
Led odd pitches. Great day out. Amazing route, so many of the pitches are packed with quality climbing for 40-50 metres. Loads of laybacks so my legs were sore the next day (my technique is awful). Really enjoyed the slabby groove on pitch 6, the stemming at the start of pitch 7 and of course the slanting corner. The run out on pitch 11 added some flavour to the route. The grassy gully pitch 12 was soaked, muddy and the only negative. Started in the afternoon for full sun coverage, topped out to an amazing midnight sun at about 01:00. About 9 hours on the climb (not rushing) and 12.5 hours car to car. The views from the top were incredible. Having come to Norway to climb Hollenderan on Kvaloya and then got snowed off this was a very good substitute. Will probably get back on it again some day. No pitch is above E1 but low E2 together is probably fair.
with Matt77
Matt77 1 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S The even pitches. Started at 3.30pm and topped out at around 1am, bathed in the welcoming pink glow of the midnight sun settling on the mountains and reflecting off the Fjords. What a route. The quality is maintained throughout (with the exception of the final pitch) and it was followed by a lovely walk across the ridge and then down the steep path back to the car feeling tired but content.
with Shane
The even pitches. Started at 3.30pm and topped out at around 1am, bathed in the welcoming pink glow of the midnight sun settling on the mountains and reflecting off the Fjords. What a route. The quality is maintained throughout (with the exception of the final pitch) and it was followed by a lovely walk across the ridge and then down the steep path back to the car feeling tired but content.
with Shane
mBob8 4 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Late season ascent meant for perfect conditions bar a tiny bit of seepage low down, no-one in sight, cold sticky granite, lead 10 of 12 pitches, ~8.5 hours up. Simply amazing. Go do it.
Late season ascent meant for perfect conditions bar a tiny bit of seepage low down, no-one in sight, cold sticky granite, lead 10 of 12 pitches, ~8.5 hours up. Simply amazing. Go do it.
ecromwell 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd What an epic climb - worthy of the best climb in Lofoten. So many interesting sections on it. Rain came just as we started the slanting corner. Led p2 and the cruxxy layback on p7. Topped out around 9:30 pm and started 9am. Climbed as a 3.
with sink14
What an epic climb - worthy of the best climb in Lofoten. So many interesting sections on it. Rain came just as we started the slanting corner. Led p2 and the cruxxy layback on p7. Topped out around 9:30 pm and started 9am. Climbed as a 3.
with sink14
Hidden 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Mackinclimb 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd
mzchambers 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
connor 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Jim Slater 22 Aug, 2016 AltLd rpt It was so good I climbed it again, 9hrs on the rock.
with Sian Hughes
It was so good I climbed it again, 9hrs on the rock.
with Sian Hughes
MikkoW 21 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with JVaso
with JVaso
Hidden 21 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Excellent climbing, quality all the way and the sun shined! A leisurely 11 hours on the rock. Great views of Henningvaer from the adjacent peak during the walk off. Perfect day. Led all the juicy pitches: 1,3,6,7,9 and 11.
with Maia
Excellent climbing, quality all the way and the sun shined! A leisurely 11 hours on the rock. Great views of Henningvaer from the adjacent peak during the walk off. Perfect day. Led all the juicy pitches: 1,3,6,7,9 and 11.
with Maia
Maia 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd led pitches 2, 4,5,8,10,12. had a slight assist from gear on cruxes in the interest of time and energy but very pleased to have finished in good time with amazing views! a great day..
led pitches 2, 4,5,8,10,12. had a slight assist from gear on cruxes in the interest of time and energy but very pleased to have finished in good time with amazing views! a great day..
Graeme Hammond 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Bradbury 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S GH even pitches (includes curxes), Me odd pitches. Leave car 6:30, climbing by 6:50, top out 15:00 (8hr10mins climbing), 1 hour at top, back to car at 17:30 (via hitch)
GH even pitches (includes curxes), Me odd pitches. Leave car 6:30, climbing by 6:50, top out 15:00 (8hr10mins climbing), 1 hour at top, back to car at 17:30 (via hitch)
alexm198 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Ludicrously good climbing and some excellent boomy flakes... Rock/Paper/Scissors for the leads, ended up with evens. Took 7h20 including an hour spent waiting behind a very slow Norwegian team on pitches 6 and 7. More like E1 5b, climbing is intimidating but super safe and secure.
Ludicrously good climbing and some excellent boomy flakes... Rock/Paper/Scissors for the leads, ended up with evens. Took 7h20 including an hour spent waiting behind a very slow Norwegian team on pitches 6 and 7. More like E1 5b, climbing is intimidating but super safe and secure.
Matt Harle 14 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
sjarness 12 Aug, 2016 -
lydiag 10 Aug, 2016 2nd
with Will Johnson, Jon
with Will Johnson, Jon
Hidden 10 Aug, 2016 AltLd rpt
Hidden 2 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt
saaruli 2 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Direct start.
with erik..
Direct start.
with erik..
sian88 ?Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
ThunderBeest ?Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Peter Ballantine 30 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 16 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S What a route! 12 hours from the van back to the van, 9 on the climb.
with Chris Calow
What a route! 12 hours from the van back to the van, 9 on the climb.
with Chris Calow
tuftynick ?Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
tomballantine ?Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Paul Figg 29 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Probably the best multi pitch route you'll ever do.
with Rachel Antill
Probably the best multi pitch route you'll ever do.
with Rachel Antill
Pippa 13 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S 12 hours. Cycled to the crag racked up. Pip lead odd pitches. Technical crux on pitch 7 moving from one crack to another (rope behind my leg mid move). Slanting crack intimidating but steady. Scary run out horizontally across the slab at the top. Beautiful views. Stunning day.
12 hours. Cycled to the crag racked up. Pip lead odd pitches. Technical crux on pitch 7 moving from one crack to another (rope behind my leg mid move). Slanting crack intimidating but steady. Scary run out horizontally across the slab at the top. Beautiful views. Stunning day.
Psk94 10 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Jon Pål Hamre, Asbjørn Rekkebo
with Jon Pål Hamre, Asbjørn Rekkebo
DavidEvans 6 Jul, 2015 Lead dnf First 5 pitches. Bottled it as we were slow - mainly my fault with twin rope faff.
with Helen Garrett
First 5 pitches. Bottled it as we were slow - mainly my fault with twin rope faff.
with Helen Garrett
jonnie3430 5 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
Dave Rumney 18 Jun, 2015 AltLd Fantastic route, world class climbing for 9 pitches. Only one other party ahead and they were several pitches up. A strong cross wind and building cloud from the north during the middle pitches made it feel quite serious there. Topped out in late evening sunshine. A sea eagle flew past, flashing it's white tail by way of salute. Amazing
with Tanya Milner
Fantastic route, world class climbing for 9 pitches. Only one other party ahead and they were several pitches up. A strong cross wind and building cloud from the north during the middle pitches made it feel quite serious there. Topped out in late evening sunshine. A sea eagle flew past, flashing it's white tail by way of salute. Amazing
with Tanya Milner
Little AndyH 6 Jun, 2015 AltLd dnf Bailed after a rain storm and high winds came in on pitch 7
Bailed after a rain storm and high winds came in on pitch 7
Peter Reynolds ?Jun, 2015 Lead
TommyKips ?Jun, 2015 2nd dog Gear got stuck twice had to hang on rope to get them out, asides from that the climbing was clean :'( wasn't even the harder pitches!
Gear got stuck twice had to hang on rope to get them out, asides from that the climbing was clean :'( wasn't even the harder pitches!
PhilipO ?Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Alfred L
with Alfred L
JuneBob 10 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Led the even pitches plus pitch 11. Awesome climb, great outing.
with Odd Rune
Led the even pitches plus pitch 11. Awesome climb, great outing.
with Odd Rune
Andy Nisbet 9 Aug, 2014 AltLd
with Dave McGimpsey
with Dave McGimpsey
mim tiller 17 Jul, 2014 AltLd dnf
ad111 ?Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
plain kitten ?Jul, 2014 Lead incomplete!
incomplete!
Hidden 26 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2014 AltLd
Stefan_Morris 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Varied, sustained and absolutely bloody amazing!!
Varied, sustained and absolutely bloody amazing!!
MadProfessor 9 Aug, 2013 AltLd A simply brilliant route. We were 9hrs on the climb, 12hrs car to car and thought the crux was P7 and technically might just nudge 5c for a few moves, but excellent protection. Stunning situations. One of the best.
with Mr Vaughan
A simply brilliant route. We were 9hrs on the climb, 12hrs car to car and thought the crux was P7 and technically might just nudge 5c for a few moves, but excellent protection. Stunning situations. One of the best.
with Mr Vaughan
Hidden 26 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 26 Jul, 2013 AltLd rpt
will_benfold 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led odd-numbered pitches, so got all three n6 sections. Pitch after pitch of excellent climbing, save for the exit gully of P12!
with Aeron Buchanan
Led odd-numbered pitches, so got all three n6 sections. Pitch after pitch of excellent climbing, save for the exit gully of P12!
with Aeron Buchanan
chrisallan 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd dog By some margin the best climb i have ever done. Absolutely blown away by the quality. Led 1,3,5,7(dogged),10,12
By some margin the best climb i have ever done. Absolutely blown away by the quality. Led 1,3,5,7(dogged),10,12
cameron_hall 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S An amazing climb, especially pitches 8 and 9. Led pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 9, 11. A great day of climbing.
An amazing climb, especially pitches 8 and 9. Led pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 9, 11. A great day of climbing.
mes32 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd Incredible! Pitch after pitch of sustained, brilliant climbing. 1/4/5/8/10/12.
with Chris Bull
Incredible! Pitch after pitch of sustained, brilliant climbing. 1/4/5/8/10/12.
with Chris Bull
Kemics 14 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf Geordie was pysched so tried to go for it. But forecast was for rain. Climbed first 5 pitches (to the big ledge) then one more after the bolts but decided to downclimb after a cam got stuck a wasted time. Bailed and got down just before massive rain storm. Perfect anti climax to washout trip. Honestly...the route was fantastic (or the pitches I got to) but Lofoten is just too much of weather gamble. 2 weeks of rain. Dont bother.
with Geordie
Geordie was pysched so tried to go for it. But forecast was for rain. Climbed first 5 pitches (to the big ledge) then one more after the bolts but decided to downclimb after a cam got stuck a wasted time. Bailed and got down just before massive rain storm. Perfect anti climax to washout trip. Honestly...the route was fantastic (or the pitches I got to) but Lofoten is just too much of weather gamble. 2 weeks of rain. Dont bother.
with Geordie
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
ferdia 19 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Rozzy Pedder
with Rozzy Pedder
James Oswald ?Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Simply the best days climbing I've ever had. It took 11.5 hours overall but we were very chilled out and leisurely. Clare lead P1, me P2. Clare then fell off the 1st crux pitch on lead after claiming that her gear wasn't very good. It was fine and perfectly bomber. I strung P4 and P5 together. Clare then got the rope caught climbing P6 and I had to take coils... yay... After telling me that the belay wasn't very good I got really gripped seconding P7 and trying to get Clare's cam out. I then lead P8 awfully, feeling gripped the entire time. We had a long break before I lead the big corner to let my toes recover (knackered feet). The slanting corner was totally amazing, great climbing. The next pitch was horrible, that loose block REALLY needs trundling because otherwise it will kill someone. THe final proper traverse pitch was absolutely amazing. A totally awesome days climbing. Ace
with Clare Erskine
Simply the best days climbing I've ever had. It took 11.5 hours overall but we were very chilled out and leisurely. Clare lead P1, me P2. Clare then fell off the 1st crux pitch on lead after claiming that her gear wasn't very good. It was fine and perfectly bomber. I strung P4 and P5 together. Clare then got the rope caught climbing P6 and I had to take coils... yay... After telling me that the belay wasn't very good I got really gripped seconding P7 and trying to get Clare's cam out. I then lead P8 awfully, feeling gripped the entire time. We had a long break before I lead the big corner to let my toes recover (knackered feet). The slanting corner was totally amazing, great climbing. The next pitch was horrible, that loose block REALLY needs trundling because otherwise it will kill someone. THe final proper traverse pitch was absolutely amazing. A totally awesome days climbing. Ace
with Clare Erskine
klipkabouter ?Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S took a nice 30 ft whipper landing on John when my foot slipped mid post crux move on pitch 7
with John Vous
took a nice 30 ft whipper landing on John when my foot slipped mid post crux move on pitch 7
with John Vous
Coel Hellier 30 Jul, 2012 AltLd
climbingpixie 29 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1, 4, 7 & 11. Superb route, best I've ever done. The three crux pitches were brilliant and varied but all the climbing in between is also fantastic. What a great day!
Led pitches 1, 4, 7 & 11. Superb route, best I've ever done. The three crux pitches were brilliant and varied but all the climbing in between is also fantastic. What a great day!
Hidden 29 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 29 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P2, 5, 9+12. First E2. Can't imagine a better day's climbing.
Led P2, 5, 9+12. First E2. Can't imagine a better day's climbing.
Hidden 28 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 6 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Gibson27 ?Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Took 9 hours. Amazing route and steady climbing the whole way. Great belays, good stances, bomber gear and awesome surroundings!!
Took 9 hours. Amazing route and steady climbing the whole way. Great belays, good stances, bomber gear and awesome surroundings!!
Anna_wells 29 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S amazing!!
amazing!!
chris_B 28 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Fantastic day out out. First E2! Lead every pitch. First on the route, took us about 8 hours with no real dramas.
with louby
Fantastic day out out. First E2! Lead every pitch. First on the route, took us about 8 hours with no real dramas.
with louby
louby 28 Jul, 2011 2nd First on the route, beautiful day.
with chris_B
First on the route, beautiful day.
with chris_B
richgac 18 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Lead it all. 8hrs. Some fantastic pitches.
with Charlie
Lead it all. 8hrs. Some fantastic pitches.
with Charlie
Conan 17 Jul, 2011 AltLd What an amazing route. Most of the pitches were 3 stars. Great protection until the traverse on pitch 11.
with Paul Farish, John Hollingworth
What an amazing route. Most of the pitches were 3 stars. Great protection until the traverse on pitch 11.
with Paul Farish, John Hollingworth
cat22 3 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Derek Ryden ?Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Climbed overnight in intermittent sunshine on our last day in Lofoten. Beautiful route, no-one else on the crag. The peg on the next to last pitch was missing and the rock wet here forcing further descent and a poor belay in the gully.
with Glynne Andrew
Climbed overnight in intermittent sunshine on our last day in Lofoten. Beautiful route, no-one else on the crag. The peg on the next to last pitch was missing and the rock wet here forcing further descent and a poor belay in the gully.
with Glynne Andrew
Hidden 20 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Danhan 16 Aug, 2010 AltLd
bridget143 11 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S P1 Mik, P2 me, P3 Toby, P4 Mik, P5 me, P6 Toby, P7 me, P8 Mik, P9 Toby, P10 me, P11 Mik, P12 Toby
with tobydunford, Mikkel
P1 Mik, P2 me, P3 Toby, P4 Mik, P5 me, P6 Toby, P7 me, P8 Mik, P9 Toby, P10 me, P11 Mik, P12 Toby
with tobydunford, Mikkel
tobydunford 11 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mikkel, bridget143
with Mikkel, bridget143
Hulda 26 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Andrew1
with Andrew1
Andrew1 26 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
with Hulda
mattcyp88 11 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Not really the classic it's cracked up to be. Some good climbing though.
with Harry Martin, Thomas Van Boeckel
Not really the classic it's cracked up to be. Some good climbing though.
with Harry Martin, Thomas Van Boeckel
mattcyp88 9 Jul, 2010 Lead dnf Abbed off after the weather turned. Perhaps a mistake.
with Harry Martin, Thomas Van Boeckel
Abbed off after the weather turned. Perhaps a mistake.
with Harry Martin, Thomas Van Boeckel
Jody 8 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Pitches 2,4,6,8,9 and 11. Truly memorable.
with Erkke
Pitches 2,4,6,8,9 and 11. Truly memorable.
with Erkke
Erkke 8 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1,3,5,7,10,12. Two rain showers on the way, summitted in beautiful sunshine.
with Jody
Led pitches 1,3,5,7,10,12. Two rain showers on the way, summitted in beautiful sunshine.
with Jody
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Dr Caterpillar 13 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S led pitches 2,3,6,7,9,11 Awesome route, started raining on and off after pitch 8, then followed an amusing set of coincidences where I climbed dry rock while sage got wet. 12.5 hours cause we're english punters innit Went of route a bit I think on P6, went up a slabby thin crack and then straight up a steeper thin crack above which felt way too hard for 6-, probably should have been further right
led pitches 2,3,6,7,9,11 Awesome route, started raining on and off after pitch 8, then followed an amusing set of coincidences where I climbed dry rock while sage got wet. 12.5 hours cause we're english punters innit Went of route a bit I think on P6, went up a slabby thin crack and then straight up a steeper thin crack above which felt way too hard for 6-, probably should have been further right
John Roe 10 Aug, 2009 AltLd E2 5b, led pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 9 & 11.
with Dave Gleave
E2 5b, led pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 9 & 11.
with Dave Gleave
Hidden 10 Aug, 2009 Lead
richardlong78 30 Jul, 2009 AltLd L Pitches 2 4/5 7 9 11
L Pitches 2 4/5 7 9 11
HIGHTOWER 30 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Certainly one of the best routes I've done. Should of carried more water!
Certainly one of the best routes I've done. Should of carried more water!
brockers 26 Jul, 2009 AltLd Excellent route, well protected, never too serious. Led pitches 1,3,5,7,9 and 11. Found pitch 3 the hardest but very well protected. We did it in 5 and a half hours, no issues just great climbing in great weather conditions.
Excellent route, well protected, never too serious. Led pitches 1,3,5,7,9 and 11. Found pitch 3 the hardest but very well protected. We did it in 5 and a half hours, no issues just great climbing in great weather conditions.
Hidden 26 Jul, 2009 AltLd
centurion05 20 Jul, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 20 Jul, 2009 AltLd
manwithacam 13 Jul, 2009 AltLd Beautiful weather, amazing climb. Pitch 7 is amazing, unfortunately I came off at the bottom of it before deciding to bridge it instead of layback. Found the climbing pretty full on on several pitches.
with Colin
Beautiful weather, amazing climb. Pitch 7 is amazing, unfortunately I came off at the bottom of it before deciding to bridge it instead of layback. Found the climbing pretty full on on several pitches.
with Colin
chiverstom 6 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Pitches 1,3,6,8,10,12. Quality! Took 8 hours with no real issues
with Dave Turner
Pitches 1,3,6,8,10,12. Quality! Took 8 hours with no real issues
with Dave Turner
Hidden 26 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 26 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Daniel Armitage 26 Jun, 2009 AltLd
with Charlotte Armitage
with Charlotte Armitage
Hidden 19 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Henrik 11 Jun, 2009 AltLd dog Perfect weather, day after my birthday.
with Josef
Perfect weather, day after my birthday.
with Josef
Alasdair Fulton 4 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Simply outstanding.
Simply outstanding.
andyinglis 4 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Excellent route with the numerous 3 star pitches....pity about the grass gully finishing pitch!
Excellent route with the numerous 3 star pitches....pity about the grass gully finishing pitch!
AJ007 ?Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
eivindf ??, 2009 Lead O/S
eivindf ??, 2009 Lead O/S
Tarquin ??, 2009 2nd
Jepaulsen 18 Aug, 2008 -
oor wullie 12 Jul, 2008 -
with Risto kalampa
with Risto kalampa
Alan James - UKC and UKH 13 Jun, 2008 AltLd Done in perfect conditions on Friday the 13th. The climbing is everything you would expect from this superb classic. Pitch seven is the perfect pitch of rock climbing.
Done in perfect conditions on Friday the 13th. The climbing is everything you would expect from this superb classic. Pitch seven is the perfect pitch of rock climbing.
Hidden 6 Jun, 2008 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 AltLd
Tim W 21 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S lead pitch 2,4,5,7,9,11. 9hrs climbing
lead pitch 2,4,5,7,9,11. 9hrs climbing
Hidden 7 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
Mattyk 7 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S Finally did it. Didn't manage to get on it when i visited in 2002, nice to see it go without any major hassle. Glad we got up early to start it 6:30 as beat the crowds and could relax on the last few pitches. topped out midday and had a dip in the lake on the way down. 1st class route!
with ali k
Finally did it. Didn't manage to get on it when i visited in 2002, nice to see it go without any major hassle. Glad we got up early to start it 6:30 as beat the crowds and could relax on the last few pitches. topped out midday and had a dip in the lake on the way down. 1st class route!
with ali k
yuha ?Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S Fantastic climbing, pitch after pitch. We did the direct start and finished off the last 3 pitches in a rain storm (they went clean tho). 9th pitch was my personal favorite!
with Matt
Fantastic climbing, pitch after pitch. We did the direct start and finished off the last 3 pitches in a rain storm (they went clean tho). 9th pitch was my personal favorite!
with Matt
Chad123 29 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S Wow, wow and wow. Definitely a world classic. The rock quality, variety of moves, protection and views are second to none. Only last pitch is a little bold. One person will get all the hard pitches though if you are swinging leads! My favourite (tough call) was pitch 7.
with Jo
Wow, wow and wow. Definitely a world classic. The rock quality, variety of moves, protection and views are second to none. Only last pitch is a little bold. One person will get all the hard pitches though if you are swinging leads! My favourite (tough call) was pitch 7.
with Jo
mattpw ?Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S Beautiful route, rain and wind to finish!
with Juha Kaupilla
Beautiful route, rain and wind to finish!
with Juha Kaupilla
Hidden 11 Aug, 2006 AltLd
datoon 1 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with RT
with RT
RAK 21 Jul, 2006 AltLd Repeated twice since, with Tim R 2008 and Lauri 2011
with Lauri
Repeated twice since, with Tim R 2008 and Lauri 2011
with Lauri
cem 20 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Fantastic route. Led all the odd numbered pitches. Done on a cold and grey (but dry) day, immediately before the long awaited good weather finally arrived just as forecast. This was deliberate as it meant we had the whole crag to ourselves and there weren't hordes of Scandinavians swarming all over us on their umpteenth ascent of the route. Have to admit that we'd never heard of it before we arrived but once there we decided it just had to be done.
with GrahamD
Fantastic route. Led all the odd numbered pitches. Done on a cold and grey (but dry) day, immediately before the long awaited good weather finally arrived just as forecast. This was deliberate as it meant we had the whole crag to ourselves and there weren't hordes of Scandinavians swarming all over us on their umpteenth ascent of the route. Have to admit that we'd never heard of it before we arrived but once there we decided it just had to be done.
with GrahamD
NickJH ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Andy Dunhill
with Andy Dunhill
Hidden 9 Jun, 2006 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2006 AltLd dnf
dave o ?Jun, 2006 Lead dnf started about 8pm, then the cloud came down so abbed off after 3rd pitch....bugger
with Helena
started about 8pm, then the cloud came down so abbed off after 3rd pitch....bugger
with Helena
graniterocks ?Jun, 2006 AltLd
Nick Wallis ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
with James Hall
with James Hall
Fredrik Nyberg 5 Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Jonas Andersson
with Jonas Andersson
Jonas Wiklund ?Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
with Lotta Svonni
with Lotta Svonni
danielh ?Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S Did "Originalstarten"
Did "Originalstarten"
TobyA 5 Aug, 2002 AltLd O/S As good as it gets.
with TobyFK
As good as it gets.
with TobyFK
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC 30 Jun, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hyslop
with Andy Hyslop
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Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Repeated
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Not Set