470m, 12 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(The West Pillar Direct) Although long called Vestpillaren this popular and brilliant climb only includes four pitches of the original line - see historical details on page 160 - but has become Lofoten's 'must-do' route, and it is worth the effort involved. The normal ascent time is 6 to 8 hours, although an efficient team can do it in less. Begin about 20m to the left of a steep water-washed gully filled with grass and some loose blocks, up the central one of three shallow corners.
Photos on cover and pages 165, 172 and 181.
1) N5+, 45m. Climb up a right-slanting groove for 15m, then traverse left 10m across an easy ledge to a nice crack which leads to a small ledge with a chain to the right.
2) N6-, 40m. Start up a small groove, followed by more broken ground leading to a flake/block on the left. Climb this, then make a hard move up into a thin finger-crack which leads to easier climbing up a crack to a fixed belay.
3) N6, 50m. Climb straight up the narrow groove (hard but safe) by thin finger-jamming and laybacking. At its top, head left up a diagonal ramp which leads to a fixed belay and small stance.
4) N5-, 20m. Head up a short wall and groove then easy slabs to a fixed belay on the right edge of Storhylla - the last fixed gear.
5) N4, 20m. Move right across the ledge, climb cracks up the right side of the huge block to a belay on its top.
6) N6-, 45m. Climb straight up thin cracks/grooves to a good ledge, then traverse 20m left (some rope drag and loose rock) to a belay on a higher ledge below a superb looking groove.
7) N6, 45m. Difficult moves lead up the groove. Follow the flake until it becomes a thin crack, then step left into a parallel crack system. Climb up the sustained crack into a left-facing groove and take a semi-hanging belay above a bulge in the corner.
8) N5+, 40m. Continue laybacking up the groove then head right up an easier slabby groove and belay on either of two ledges at the base of the 'Slanting Corner'.
9) N6, 40m. Layback and jam the right-leaning groove (sustained and awkward, especially with a sack on), to a tiny ledge. Continue up left then back right (or up the thin vertical crack on the right - harder) and belay up right at a block.
10) N4+, 30m. Climb up and left across ledges to a large loose flake jammed in a groove. Climb carefully up and right past the flake, then continue left up a chimney groove to reach a small belay ledge with several blocks.
11) N5, 35m. Follow the open groove up and right to its top, then move down and right for several metres, before traversing horizontally right. Make delicate moves around right into the grassy exit gully.
12) N3, 55m. Scramble up the grassy gully to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 04/Oct/16 Lead O/S
ecromwell 28/Aug/16 AltLd

What an epic climb - worthy of the best climb in Lofoten. So many interesting sections on it. Rain came just as we started the slanting corner. Led p2 and the cruxxy layback on p7. Topped out around 9:30 pm and started 9am. Climbed as a 3.

Hidden 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Mackinclimb 23/Aug/16 AltLd
mzchambers 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 22/Aug/16 AltLd rpt

It was so good I climbed it again, 9hrs on the rock.

with Sian Hughes
MikkoW 21/Aug/16 AltLd
with JVaso
Hidden 21/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Excellent climbing, quality all the way and the sun shined! A leisurely 11 hours on the rock. Great views of Henningvaer from the adjacent peak during the walk off. Perfect day. Led all the juicy pitches: 1,3,6,7,9 and 11.

with Maia
Hidden 17/Aug/16 AltLd
Graeme Hammond 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
alexm198 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Ludicrously good climbing and some excellent boomy flakes... Rock/Paper/Scissors for the leads, ended up with evens. Took 7h20 including an hour spent waiting behind a very slow Norwegian team on pitches 6 and 7. More like E1 5b, climbing is intimidating but super safe and secure.

Matt Harle 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/16 2nd
Hidden 10/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 02/Aug/16 2nd rpt
saaruli 02/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Direct start.

with Erik
ThunderBeest ?/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 16/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

What a route! 12 hours from the van back to the van, 9 on the climb.

with Chris Calow
Peter Ballantine ?/Jun/16 2nd O/S
tomballantine ?/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Paul Figg 29/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Probably the best multi pitch route you'll ever do.

with Rachel Antill
Pippa 13/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

12 hours. Cycled to the crag racked up. Pip lead odd pitches. Technical crux on pitch 7 moving from one crack to another (rope behind my leg mid move). Slanting crack intimidating but steady. Scary run out horizontally across the slab at the top. Beautiful views. Stunning day.

jonnie3430 05/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Dave Rumney 18/Jun/15 AltLd

Fantastic route, world class climbing for 9 pitches. Only one other party ahead and they were several pitches up. A strong cross wind and building cloud from the north during the middle pitches made it feel quite serious there. Topped out in late evening sunshine. A sea eagle flew past, flashing it's white tail by way of salute. Amazing

with Tanya Milner
Little AndyH 06/Jun/15 AltLd dnf

Bailed after a rain storm and high winds came in on pitch 7

Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/15 Lead
TommyKips ?/Jun/15 2nd dog

Gear got stuck twice had to hang on rope to get them out, asides from that the climbing was clean :'( wasn't even the harder pitches!

PhilipO ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Alfred L
JuneBob 10/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led the even pitches plus pitch 11. Awesome climb, great outing.

with Odd Rune
Andy Nisbet 09/Aug/14 AltLd
with Dave McGimpsey
timmyfuckinmiller 17/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
ad111 ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
plain kitten ?/Jul/14 Lead

incomplete!

Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd
Stefan_Morris 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Varied, sustained and absolutely bloody amazing!!

with jenny
MadProfessor 09/Aug/13 AltLd

A simply brilliant route. We were 9hrs on the climb, 12hrs car to car and thought the crux was P7 and technically might just nudge 5c for a few moves, but excellent protection. Stunning situations. One of the best.

with Mr Vaughan
Hidden 26/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
will_benfold 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led odd-numbered pitches, so got all three n6 sections. Pitch after pitch of excellent climbing, save for the exit gully of P12!

with Aeron Buchanan
chrisallan 19/Jul/13 AltLd dog

By some margin the best climb i have ever done. Absolutely blown away by the quality. Led 1,3,5,7(dogged),10,12

cameron_hall 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

An amazing climb, especially pitches 8 and 9. Led pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 9, 11. A great day of climbing.

mes32 19/Jul/13 AltLd

Incredible! Pitch after pitch of sustained, brilliant climbing. 1/4/5/8/10/12.

with Chris Bull
Kemics 14/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Geordie was pysched so tried to go for it. But forecast was for rain. Climbed first 5 pitches (to the big ledge) then one more after the bolts but decided to downclimb after a cam got stuck a wasted time. Bailed and got down just before massive rain storm. Perfect anti climax to washout trip. Honestly...the route was fantastic (or the pitches I got to) but Lofoten is just too much of weather gamble. 2 weeks of rain. Dont bother.

with Geordie
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
ferdia 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Rozzy
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Simply the best days climbing I've ever had. It took 11.5 hours overall but we were very chilled out and leisurely. Clare lead P1, me P2. Clare then fell off the 1st crux pitch on lead after claiming that her gear wasn't very good. It was fine and perfectly bomber. I strung P4 and P5 together. Clare then got the rope caught climbing P6 and I had to take coils... yay... After telling me that the belay wasn't very good I got really gripped seconding P7 and trying to get Clare's cam out. I then lead P8 awfully, feeling gripped the entire time. We had a long break before I lead the big corner to let my toes recover (knackered feet). The slanting corner was totally amazing, great climbing. The next pitch was horrible, that loose block REALLY needs trundling because otherwise it will kill someone. THe final proper traverse pitch was absolutely amazing. A totally awesome days climbing. Ace

with Clare Erskine
klipkabouter ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

took a nice 30 ft whipper landing on John when my foot slipped mid post crux move on pitch 7

with John Vous
Coel Hellier 30/Jul/12 AltLd
climbingpixie 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 4, 7 & 11. Superb route, best I've ever done. The three crux pitches were brilliant and varied but all the climbing in between is also fantastic. What a great day!

with Colin, Andy
Hidden 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 29/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2, 5, 9+12. First E2. Can't imagine a better day's climbing.

with Julie, Andy
Hidden 28/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/12 AltLd
Gibson27 ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Took 9 hours. Amazing route and steady climbing the whole way. Great belays, good stances, bomber gear and awesome surroundings!!

Anna_wells 29/Jul/11 Lead O/S

amazing!!

chris_B 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic day out out. First E2! Lead every pitch. First on the route, took us about 8 hours with no real dramas.

louby 28/Jul/11 2nd

First on the route, beautiful day.

Conan 17/Jul/11 AltLd

What an amazing route. Most of the pitches were 3 stars. Great protection until the traverse on pitch 11.

with Paul Farish, John Hollingworth
cat22 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Climbed overnight in intermittent sunshine on our last day in Lofoten. Beautiful route, no-one else on the crag. The peg on the next to last pitch was missing and the rock wet here forcing further descent and a poor belay in the gully.

with Glynne Andrew
Hidden 20/Aug/10 AltLd
Danhan 16/Aug/10 AltLd
with Nick
bridget143 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

P1 Mik, P2 me, P3 Toby, P4 Mik, P5 me, P6 Toby, P7 me, P8 Mik, P9 Toby, P10 me, P11 Mik, P12 Toby

with Toby Dunford, Mikkel
tobydunford 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Mikkel, Bridget Hall
Hulda 26/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Andi
Andrew1 26/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
mattcyp88 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Not really the classic it's cracked up to be. Some good climbing though.

with Harry Martin, Thomas Van Boeckel
mattcyp88 09/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Abbed off after the weather turned. Perhaps a mistake.

with Harry Martin, Thomas Van Boeckel
Jody 08/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2,4,6,8,9 and 11. Truly memorable.

with Erik
Erkke 08/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1,3,5,7,10,12. Two rain showers on the way, summitted in beautiful sunshine.

with Jody
Hidden ??/2010 -
Dr Caterpillar 13/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

led pitches 2,3,6,7,9,11 Awesome route, started raining on and off after pitch 8, then followed an amusing set of coincidences where I climbed dry rock while sage got wet. 12.5 hours cause we're english punters innit Went of route a bit I think on P6, went up a slabby thin crack and then straight up a steeper thin crack above which felt way too hard for 6-, probably should have been further right

John Roe 10/Aug/09 AltLd

E2 5b, led pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 9 & 11.

with Dave Gleave
Hidden 10/Aug/09 Lead
richardlong78 30/Jul/09 AltLd

L Pitches 2 4/5 7 9 11

HIGHTOWER 30/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Certainly one of the best routes I've done. Should of carried more water!

brockers 26/Jul/09 AltLd

Excellent route, well protected, never too serious. Led pitches 1,3,5,7,9 and 11. Found pitch 3 the hardest but very well protected. We did it in 5 and a half hours, no issues just great climbing in great weather conditions.

Hidden 26/Jul/09 AltLd
centurion05 20/Jul/09 AltLd
with patch
Hidden 20/Jul/09 AltLd
manwithacam 13/Jul/09 AltLd

Beautiful weather, amazing climb. Pitch 7 is amazing, unfortunately I came off at the bottom of it before deciding to bridge it instead of layback. Found the climbing pretty full on on several pitches.

with Colin
chiverstom 06/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3,6,8,10,12. Quality! Took 8 hours with no real issues

with Dave Turner
Hidden 26/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 26/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Daniel Armitage 26/Jun/09 AltLd
with Charlotte Armitage
tuukka 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Hanna
Henrik 11/Jun/09 AltLd dog

Perfect weather, day after my birthday.

with Josef
Alasdair Fulton 04/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Simply outstanding.

andyinglis 04/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Excellent route with the numerous 3 star pitches....pity about the grass gully finishing pitch!

AJ007 ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
eivindf ??/2009 Lead O/S
eivindf ??/2009 Lead O/S
Tarquin ??/2009 2nd
oor wullie 12/Jul/08 -
with Risto kalampa
Alan James - UKC and UKH 13/Jun/08 AltLd

Done in perfect conditions on Friday the 13th. The climbing is everything you would expect from this superb classic. Pitch seven is the perfect pitch of rock climbing.

Hidden 06/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd
Tim W 21/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 2,4,5,7,9,11. 9hrs climbing

Hidden 07/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Mattyk 07/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Finally did it. Didn't manage to get on it when i visited in 2002, nice to see it go without any major hassle. Glad we got up early to start it 6:30 as beat the crowds and could relax on the last few pitches. topped out midday and had a dip in the lake on the way down. 1st class route!

with Ali K
yuha ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Fantastic climbing, pitch after pitch. We did the direct start and finished off the last 3 pitches in a rain storm (they went clean tho). 9th pitch was my personal favorite!

with Matt
Chad123 29/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Wow, wow and wow. Definitely a world classic. The rock quality, variety of moves, protection and views are second to none. Only last pitch is a little bold. One person will get all the hard pitches though if you are swinging leads! My favourite (tough call) was pitch 7.

with Jo
mattpw ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Beautiful route, rain and wind to finish!

with Juha Kaupilla
Chris Craggs 11/Aug/06 AltLd

4hrs 40mins via the Original Start. Did the Direct Start a couple of days ago for a quick look.

with Colin Binks
datoon 01/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with RT
RAK 21/Jul/06 AltLd

Repeated twice since, with Tim R 2008 and Lauri 2011

with Lauri
cem 20/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. Led all the odd numbered pitches. Done on a cold and grey (but dry) day, immediately before the long awaited good weather finally arrived just as forecast. This was deliberate as it meant we had the whole crag to ourselves and there weren't hordes of Scandinavians swarming all over us on their umpteenth ascent of the route. Have to admit that we'd never heard of it before we arrived but once there we decided it just had to be done.

NickJH ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Andy Dunhill
Hidden 09/Jun/06 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd dnf
dave o ?/Jun/06 Lead dnf

started about 8pm, then the cloud came down so abbed off after 3rd pitch....bugger

with Helena
graniterocks ?/Jun/06 AltLd
Nick Wallis ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with James Hall
Fredrik Nyberg 05/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Jonas Andersson
Jonas Wiklund ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Lotta Svonni
danielh ?/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Did "Originalstarten"

TobyA 05/Aug/02 AltLd O/S

As good as it gets.

with TobyFK
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC 30/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hyslop
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Voting
High n6+
Mid n6+
Low n6+
High n6
Mid n6
Low n6
High n6-
Mid n6-
Low n6-
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set