UKC

9m. A worthwhile line. Use one of two starts either side of the shallow arch (the RH one off the block is better) to gain and follow the blind flake line in the slab between the two cracks to positive edges in the friable middle section and gear. For the original (Tired of Life) finish trend slightly right on positive square edges to a blunt rib and the two bolt lower off of Crack Line Two (E1 5b if you don’t use the bolt). You can also finish straight up by mantling the ledge right of Crack Line One and stepping left to the two bolt lower off (HVS or E1 with no bolt). A good alternative finish is to move left from the gear to finish as Crack Line One (HVS 5b*) or even better with gear in that route do the finishing mantle to Coma Toes which gives a good sustained E1 5b*. Protection: There is a 10mm bolt with no hanger at 2/3rds height, if you choose to use this you need to bring your own washer, nut and hanger (or use a wire nut as a hanger). The trad gear at about the same height is poor.

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High E1
Mid E1
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High HVS
Mid HVS
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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Route of Interest
Top Gun

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Ingleby Incline)

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