First icefall right of Douglas Gap

T. Mcaulay and N Muir 02/Apr/1980


ClimberDateStyle
Lindh 08/Mar 2nd
with Stu Lade
Si 07/Mar Lead

Climbed on MIC assessment

michaelb1 05/Mar AltLd

P1 tricky but on OK ice, p2 OK snow ice and then the snow got very powdery at the top. Abbed into Douglas gap. Some in situ belays.

with carlh
carlh 05/Mar AltLd
foostu4 14/Feb AltLd O/S
wi11 14/Feb Solo O/S
with Domen Petrovcic, Tom
Tim Francis 14/Feb 2nd
maxtaylor 14/Feb 2nd O/S
Tom Livingstone 14/Feb Solo
dav_713 29/Feb/16 Lead
with Andy Hague
James_Kendal 28/Feb/16 2nd

Good ice in the right places, two short crux sections, both getting out of the top of chimneys and both felt quite hard. Good tat in-situ for abing down to the Douglas Gap.

with Gareth D
Hidden 28/Feb/16 2nd
Andrew Duncan 22/Feb/16 2nd
with andrew Senior, joe hallam
tunnah 21/Feb/16 Lead O/S
with scott
Scott Quinn 21/Feb/16 2nd O/S
Tom.Priestley 21/Feb/16 2nd O/S

First pitch only due to foul weather

joe hallam 20/Feb/16 Lead
with Andrew Duncan, andrew senior
alan barnes 21/Jan/16 AltLd
with tom sylvester
masa-alpin 21/Jan/16 2nd β

Steve lead P1, P3 and Bill did P2. Enough ice. Abed off to West Gully.

with Bill Mc, Steve T
websterm508 17/Jan/16 AltLd O/S
with Ric M
adie84 16/Jan/16 -
davkeo 04/Mar/15 Solo O/S

Ice not great which made bulge on first pitch awkward. Ab down to Douglas gap on single 50m

Gazlynn 04/Mar/15 2nd
Hidden 04/Mar/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Mar/15 Lead
mark-abz 02/Mar/15 2nd
with Michael B, Matt S
MightyStew 28/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Sara 28/Feb/15 2nd

First multi pitch

alifin 27/Feb/15 -

Good mountain day out. After top pitch moved down ridge and abseiled into gap.

with Ken Doyle, Niall Hed
Tarquin 26/Feb/15 -
Hidden 25/Feb/15 AltLd
Hidden 21/Feb/15 Lead
Hidden 21/Feb/15 2nd
LJKing 17/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Intended on doing Vanishing Gully - but there was a queue. So opted for this which was quite good and no push over - especially given the foul weather!

with Adrian Botting
joeallen28 05/Feb/15 2nd O/S

Did first 3 pitches, then abbed off.

Karlos 02/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Actually started up second icefall to the right of West Gully. Steep, but short. Having only two screws, now both used, had to skirt rigth of the iced bulges, returning left to the tat on the belay. Headed into mixed ground on P3, but snow too soft, so backed into gully on the right, and climbed with ease to crest.

with Ian Hendy
AndyCook 24/Jan/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Jan/15 2nd
Hidden 16/Jan/15 Lead
Hidden 29/Mar/14 AltLd
Andrew Holden 24/Mar/14 2nd
Captain Solo 23/Mar/14 AltLd

Low level option with much fresh snow on the approach. Mostly unconsolidated with unfrozen turf and cruddy ice. A lot harder than expected.

with Gary
GaryK 23/Mar/14 AltLd
Adrianw 21/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

I led P1 (bold, unconsolidated and unfrozen. Not the best choice!). Ed led P2, Tim led P3 then abbed into Douglas Gap and back to CIC

with Ed Sciberras, Tim Hakim
malteserEd 21/Mar/14 AltLd
Hidden 17/Feb/14 Lead
2010_graham 10/Feb/14 2nd O/S
with Olle K
olekemi 09/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Plenty snow and spindrift. Little gear.

with Simon T, Graham D
chris smith 01/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Little gear on the route most it was buried. Summit ridge was a snow arÍte so no gear on final belay.

niallsash ?/Feb/14 Lead
Hidden 13/Jan/14 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jan/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/13 -
The Patriot 17/Feb/13 2nd
with Phil Dowthwaite
davesa 15/Feb/13 2nd
Hidden 10/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
scottie390 08/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

very nice climb with some interesting, well protected (usually) situations B1 - rock belay on the R of below P1, B2 - insitu tat thread, P2- series of grooves, B3 Spike belay

with Andy Hague
Hidden 08/Feb/13 AltLd
Hidden 07/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/13 AltLd
Colin Mcgregor 03/Feb/13 AltLd

Thawing rapidly! Good enough route for a short day, didn't fancy topping out at the summit in the hellish wind!

with Robert McMurray, Danny Doran
brad_tait 01/Feb/13 2nd
Hidden 30/Jan/13 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 30/Jan/13 2nd O/S
chris smith 28/Jan/13 -
David Cowley 19/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Really thin and lean conditions which made it hard in the grade

Hidden ??/2013 AltLd
dan doran ??/2013 -
010paw 15/Dec/12 2nd O/S

A nice route for a quick nip up! Seemed a little spicier than the guide book grade. Good alternative finish up through a nose is interesting. A slight traverse back along to the start of tower ridge and an abseil into the gully was ideal descent.

with Guy Stephens, calum mcphee
nickcj 05/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Jon Sutterby 05/Feb/12 2nd dog

Lead by Nick Jones (Adventure Peaks). Great 1st pitch.

with Steve Bate
Gary Macaulay 21/Jan/12 -
with Peter Berwick
Pete23 21/Jan/12 Lead

Good route for a bad weather day.

with Gary McCaulay
centurion05 ??/2012 -
morsy 20/Dec/11 AltLd
with owain
Owain 20/Dec/11 AltLd
with morsy
Ken Applegate 21/Mar/11 Lead

The ice that remains was ok and turf still just about frozen in places, however, it's all disappearing fast!

with Phil Applegate
Hidden 17/Mar/11 -
Pat-H 17/Mar/11 Lead

nice first pitch:-)

with don
Hidden 17/Mar/11 2nd
markfairbank 15/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Had a look at Hadrians but not today... went for the lower down option instead

with Paul Sheehan, Dave Brown
Mountain Llama 15/Mar/11 AltLd

Conditions OK-ish but could do with a refreeze to firm things up. Lead P3.

with Mark & Paul
Pete23 ?/Mar/11 2nd
Tim Sparrow 22/Feb/11 AltLd
with Pete Robinson
lost.arrow 21/Feb/11 AltLd
with Stu Sherwood
Joolz 21/Feb/11 AltLd

lovely first pitch

with Matt Upwood
Tim Rodgers 19/Feb/11 AltLd
Hidden 15/Feb/11 2nd
Hidden 13/Feb/11 2nd O/S
rob1 10/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Big Lee 10/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Climbed this after Vanishing Gully. Proved trickier than expected as the ice was lean in places.

groliver26 03/Feb/11 2nd

not quite to the top before what was to become a bit of an epic

becoming-stranger 03/Feb/11 Lead dnf

Absolute epic ensued

jon_ridley 03/Feb/11 2nd O/S

mini-epic (weather, avalanche)

Hidden ?/Feb/11 AltLd
PAJames ??/2011 -
WilliamBurnside 27/Feb/10 AltLd
with Martin Fitzsimmons
Moonstone Hippy 22/Jan/10 AltLd dnf

Ab'd off after first pitch

with Phil
Danny Boy Dunbar 09/Mar/09 2nd
with Ben Wood, Andy Woolston
centurion05 09/Mar/09 Lead
crowberry gully 09/Mar/09 AltLd
with Ross McGibbon
John Roe 09/Mar/09 Lead

A good route after a walk up to the CIC hut

with Martin Coleman
Hannah Evans 29/Jan/09 2nd
Ken Applegate 29/Jan/09 Lead

Fine, if slightly unconsolidated. Did a left hand variation of the top pitch, following a corner, with no turf and unconsolidated snow, it probably went at upper end 4, possibly 5. Otherwise, the top two pitches are grade 1.5 snow slopes!

Harry Ellis 29/Jan/09 AltLd
with Dave Buckett
George Ormerod ?/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
with Roger
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
icescrew ?/Feb/00 AltLd
with Sandy
akhughes ??/2000 -
mike fenwick ?/Mar/99 AltLd
with Ben Pearce
6 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set