Rockfax Description
The painfully-obvious overhanging corner-crack above and right of Cemetery Gates, best approached by one of the routes below, or abseil from above. Big cams and arms advisable. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, 50 cracks to Squamish, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, WideBoyz Crack School.

Stuart Walker ?/Sep/17 Lead O/S
eb202 26/Aug/17 2nd dog

Brutal! Thuggish but at the same time surprisingly delicate. Very sustained with a couple of poor rests.

with Michael
Mike505 26/Aug/17 Lead G/U

Peeled at the start, lowered off and went again. Walked my cams up most of the way, a size 2 dragon protected the start then walked two size 4's before using a 5 higher up. Once out of cams there's a chock stone and a run out offwidth...ish section to run out. A route where a Gritstone apprenticeship really paid off!

JackM92 25/Jul/17 Lead G/U

Absolutely brutal but amazing too. Feet slipped off the smooth right wall as i laybacked the start and fell off. Climbed second try. Seriously hard route, enjoyed the struggle. 3 stars.

tprebs 25/Jul/17 2nd rpt
with Jack
Tom Livingstone 14/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with Ben Silvestre
Flavio 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Bloody jammin' amazing. I found it better than Cenotaph. ****

JendeHoxar 03/Jun/17 2nd dog
with Flavio
clams ?/Jun/17 2nd dog

A crack to desire. Tried to lead, fell off low down. Seconded with one rest. To give this E1 is rather macho. 5.10c

with Jim
tprebs 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S

steep hand jammy goodness

with Conor Cadden
Sardien 08/Apr/17 2nd O/S

This was so good! What a feast of jamming and bridging, grateful for the seconding as the start was particularly nails but keen to lead it next time

with Kate
cjcuni ?/Apr/17 2nd dog

Jesus this was rough, still need more practice at cracks and being a strong bastard.

Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
beagly77 ??/2017 -
beagly77 ??/2017 -
Jim Slater 31/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 31/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Sustained steep HVS jamming, great fun

with Jim
Tom Livingstone 09/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Ben Bransby
wi11 08/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Tim Neill
Andy Peak 1 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Bottom 5 m is the crux, 5 pieces of gear was just enofe! Super fun

UncleMephisto 31/May/16 2nd O/S

Couldn't get off the ground on this when we tried it last year. As burly as it looks. Inspiring lead by Darren.

shed_hed 31/May/16 Lead O/S

Laybacking and bridging test piece! Was very strenuous, would have certainly been easier to jam up it if I could jam. Really had to fight my way up this one, got plenty of rests in between sections though, including a handsfree sit down just below the top. Took triple sets of cams up this so had plenty of gear in!

Dave Turnbull, BMC 05/May/16 2nd rpt
with Snort
Hidden ??/2016 -
Pete_Frost 02/Oct/15 2nd dog

E2 5b is a fair grade for this - not E1 5b as in the definitive guide. Very poor feet on the right wall and the crack is hard to jam. Lay-backing would be tough and make it hard to place gear. Not a route I want to come back and lead.

with David Rumney
Dave Rumney 02/Oct/15 Lead
Rachel Slater 26/Sep/15 Lead RP

Pretty much had to aid this on second maybe 4 years ago, today jams felt totally bomber!

tim newton 26/Sep/15 2nd β
richiebongo 17/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Only the best crack climb in the country.

with Phil Rossiter
JRJones 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Bridging all the way! Very technical using minimal jams, probably harder work but less technical if you jam all the way. biggish cams appreciated

with chris
Hidden 07/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/15 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 13/May/15 -
Albachoss 04/May/15 2nd β

Jam or go home! An incredible crack climb that gradually gobbles up your hands

with Dougie
Wizzy 07/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2015 -
Vnockles 16/Nov/14 2nd
with Ian Faulkner
ian d f 15/Nov/14 Lead dog

Fell near the bottom but got the rest.

with Tor
soph 04/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Jammed to whole way up - progress :0)

with Steve Franklin
Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead β
bigbobbyking 29/Jun/14 2nd dog

Lots of rests. I can't climb cracks!

pearson9596 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Rob King, Tor Nockles
tobydunford 30/May/14 2nd dog
with Harry Martin
Hidden 12/Mar/14 2nd O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
soph 07/Jun/13 2nd
with Alex Hughes
Tubs 31/May/13 Lead O/S

Hard HVS for fellow grit monkeys, easy E2 if you are a reasonable jammer and probably impossible if you aren't.

with AJM
AJM 31/May/13 2nd dog

My good run of managing to second Tom's jamming routes despite a total inability to jam properly comes to an end! Fell off trying to jam the thin hands section at the bottom and annoyingly my foot slipped right up near the top too.

Nick Biven ??/2013 Lead O/S
morganator 08/Sep/12 2nd
soph 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson, jon morgan
Si dH 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Awesome jamming crack. Fairly soft for E2? A tricky bit in the middle where the crack got a bit wide but otherwise it was more like Peak HVS? I had to shunt cams almost all the way up as only had 2 that fitted 90% of it.

with Neil Furniss
Dan Vaj 06/Jun/12 2nd dog
with James McHaffie
dan ely 02/Jun/12 Lead RP

2nd go. jamming easy, bridging hard

with dan
Rich Kirby 23/May/12 Lead O/S

Quite a tussle....Brilliant!

with Ruth
ksjs 28/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Sweaty and painful and that was just the first few metres, beat a retreat. Can't see how this is E1! I'll be back with taped hands and cooler conditions...

with jo
Captain Gear ??/2012 -
Ewan Russell 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Ralph
Hidden 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S
al99 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
centurion05 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Jamming crack???? Just layback it to glory. One big hold all the way to the top. E1 5a/b

with benji
Owain Llewelyn 04/Jun/11 2nd
with Neil
Rachel Slater 02/Jun/11 2nd dog

nightmare. couldn't do it at all.

Chi Cheng 02/Jun/11 Lead dog

yo yo it 3 times (fell, did not pull the rope). after the 4th fall, sat on rope and then finished it clean. did not have enough cams with me.

dan ely 23/Mar/11 Lead dnf


with tony (army)
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Rich Guest 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Was i mysteriously transported to Indian Creek? Hot sunshine and spitter cracks! Proper old school jamming fest, crushed by a confused mixture of classy technique and gruelling determination :)

Hidden 11/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
melonmike 27/Aug/10 2nd dog
80s pete ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S

The very best hand jamming corner crack in the UK. As i pulled onto the ledge and saw the corner in all its glory i remember finding it hard to swallow!! However, as with most climbs on the Cromlech its bark was muck bigger than its bite. Shame it's not twice as long. Some guy in Joe Browns shop told me it has been down graded to E1? It felt pretty E2 to me.

TomPR 03/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 17/Jun/10 2nd dog
Misha 31/May/10 Lead O/S

Didn't think I'd get up this clean so very pleased! The first half of the route provided the hardest jamming I had ever done but managed to keep going to the rest, after which the going got easier thanks to decent footholds on the side walls. Unloaded a double set of #1 to #3 cams in row, plus a hex at head height and the chockstone at the top, so pretty well protected.

with Ian W
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/10 2nd dog
eddy-on-the-rocks 15/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Terry
Hidden 02/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Ram MkiV 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Al
david morse 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Should be 11a, not E2!

with mikey R+Steve
melonmike 08/Aug/09 2nd
mattyork2 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Johnny Richard
Hidden 04/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Swotson 24/May/09 2nd dog

Massively strenuous and technical. Was doing OK with the jamming and bridging until the crack widened. I didn't manage to master the arm jamming technique. Still, good strength training exercise!

with Tony Madden
Ian Parnell ?/Apr/09 Lead
with Matt Heason
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 25/Sep/08 2nd dog
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
barni 19/Sep/08 Lead
with Oli
The old James turnbull ?/Jun/08 Lead
with aiden
Nicos 30/May/08 Lead O/S
with frazer
barni 15/May/08 2nd
Mark Stevenson 12/May/08 Lead rpt
with Herrie Heckman
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Alex Mason 04/Apr/07 Lead

one fall about 6inches from the top easy bit gutting. awesome line, totally brutal, must do.

with Adrian Berry
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
feilx 22/Jul/06 Lead O/S


with Ian Lovatt
dan gibson 13/Jun/06 Lead O/S

a ladder of bomber jams.The file on higgar tor is harder

with john nuttal
jim robertson ??/2006 -
switch ??/2005 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/04 Lead rpt
with Al (V12), Anne Vowles
Hidden 15/May/04 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 24/Aug/03 2nd O/S
with Paul Collis
Hidden 05/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 14/Sep/02 2nd O/S
Enty ??/2001 Lead
tuftynick ??/2001 -
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead
clark alston ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S

Power packed.

with Steven Martin
uphillnow ??/2000 Lead

Had 2 sets of Friends but still had to shuffle the key sized ones up as I went

with Dale Holding, Mark Gray
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Roget 16/Jun/99 2nd O/S
with baccy
Mark Riley ?/May/99 Lead dog
with Richard Ibberson
WB ??/1998 Lead O/S
tmawer 28/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Andy Taylor
Hidden 18/Jul/94 2nd
auld al ??/1994 -
nuts and bolts ?/May/92 -
phardman ??/1992 -
Paul Clarke ??/1991 Lead
with FMC
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/90 Lead O/S
with Mark Lee
Hidden ??/1990 -
michael burrows 04/Jun/89 2nd
with brian jones
Hidden ??/1989 2nd
Hidden 28/Jun/88 2nd
Hidden 21/May/88 2nd
Hidden 21/May/88 Lead
Dave Musgrove 01/May/87 Lead O/S
with Kim Greenald
ukb & bmc shark ?/Jul/86 Lead
with Charlie Stripp
Brian Wilderspin 03/Jul/85 Lead O/S
with Craig Howie
Melok ??/1985 -
Steve Bell ??/1985 -
Hidden ?/May/81 -
Mark Kemball 18/Oct/80 Lead
with Bill McKee
Hidden ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
petemeads ??/1977 Lead

Best gritstone crack in Wales...

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 33
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set