Rockfax Description
The painfully-obvious overhanging corner-crack above and right of Cemetery Gates, best approached by one of the routes below, or abseil from above. Big cams and arms advisable. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, Tom Randall's Classic Hand cracks, 50 cracks to Squamish, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Cracks And Corners To Greatness, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, WideBoyz Crack School, Michelle's crack ticklist, Definitive *** Llanberis, Proper Cracks UK

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
lanky 8 Jul Lead 2 rests. Need to get better at jamming
with Del
2 rests. Need to get better at jamming
with Del
benrhyd 27 Jun Lead dog Really struggled to get up this, ended up taking a couple of rests on it. No one move is particularly difficult, just so sustained
with JRJones
Really struggled to get up this, ended up taking a couple of rests on it. No one move is particularly difficult, just so sustained
with JRJones
JRJones 27 Jun 2nd rpt
with benrhyd
with benrhyd
SGD 27 Jun Lead Hard! Very slippy. Had a rest when I became blinkered and immediately spotted a big foot hold behind me and got back on. Gear: cams 2 red, 2 or 3 gold 2 blue and 1 grey. Id say 5c and probably e2
with Tim
Hard! Very slippy. Had a rest when I became blinkered and immediately spotted a big foot hold behind me and got back on. Gear: cams 2 red, 2 or 3 gold 2 blue and 1 grey. Id say 5c and probably e2
with Tim
Andy Moles 18 Jun 2nd
with Alex Mason
with Alex Mason
Alex Mason 18 Jun Lead rpt Fell off this in 2005/6. Still intimidated today. Got a brand new big cam stuck. Go get it.
with Andy Moles
Fell off this in 2005/6. Still intimidated today. Got a brand new big cam stuck. Go get it.
with Andy Moles
Hidden 21 May Lead O/S
poeter210 20 May Lead O/S Had a look 3 years ago but could barely get off the ground so claiming the os, felt like I had earned it by the top!
Had a look 3 years ago but could barely get off the ground so claiming the os, felt like I had earned it by the top!
Bruise Apprentice 20 May 2nd dog Stonking lead by Peter. Got halfway up before I got unbelievably boxed (thumb pump from all the jamming, leg cramps, full body work out) and had to aid the rest of it.
Stonking lead by Peter. Got halfway up before I got unbelievably boxed (thumb pump from all the jamming, leg cramps, full body work out) and had to aid the rest of it.
MikePycroft 10 Oct, 2018 Lead dnf Failled - need more cams & bigger ones & jamming gloves. Abbed for gear
Failled - need more cams & bigger ones & jamming gloves. Abbed for gear
roym 28 Aug, 2018 2nd dog Most strenuous 10m of my life, great route
Most strenuous 10m of my life, great route
Tom Fullen 28 Aug, 2018 Lead dog If you’re good at jamming I imagine it would be more fun. A proper battle to get to the top. Think I’ll come to think of it fondly though...
with roym
If you’re good at jamming I imagine it would be more fun. A proper battle to get to the top. Think I’ll come to think of it fondly though...
with roym
Heather Osborne 12 Jul, 2018 Lead β Beautiful hand jams! Had a couple of foot slips but the jams were solid. Fantastic climbing
Beautiful hand jams! Had a couple of foot slips but the jams were solid. Fantastic climbing
myrddinmuse 11 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S Fair play Eve! This thing was a hell of a fight. Starting with very thin jams, the problem always lay with the feet. If I was going to lead I'd probably take 2-3 of camalot #1-3 and maybe a #4 or two. Hell of a struggle with a rucksack that had to weigh around 8 kilos at least. 5b is bullshit.
Fair play Eve! This thing was a hell of a fight. Starting with very thin jams, the problem always lay with the feet. If I was going to lead I'd probably take 2-3 of camalot #1-3 and maybe a #4 or two. Hell of a struggle with a rucksack that had to weigh around 8 kilos at least. 5b is bullshit.
Hidden 29 May, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 29 May, 2018 2nd dog
Hidden 18 May, 2018 2nd
Carl Watkins 20 Apr, 2018 2nd dog
with Neil
with Neil
Neil 20 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
Stuart Walker ?Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
eb202 26 Aug, 2017 2nd dog Brutal! Thuggish but at the same time surprisingly delicate. Very sustained with a couple of poor rests.
with Mike505
Brutal! Thuggish but at the same time surprisingly delicate. Very sustained with a couple of poor rests.
with Mike505
Mike505 26 Aug, 2017 Lead G/U Peeled at the start, lowered off and went again. Walked my cams up most of the way, a size 2 dragon protected the start then walked two size 4's before using a 5 higher up. Once out of cams there's a chock stone and a run out offwidth...ish section. A route where a Gritstone apprenticeship really paid off!
with eb202
Peeled at the start, lowered off and went again. Walked my cams up most of the way, a size 2 dragon protected the start then walked two size 4's before using a 5 higher up. Once out of cams there's a chock stone and a run out offwidth...ish section. A route where a Gritstone apprenticeship really paid off!
with eb202
JackM92 25 Jul, 2017 Lead G/U Absolutely brutal but amazing too. Feet slipped off the smooth right wall as i laybacked the start and fell off. Climbed second try. Seriously hard route, enjoyed the struggle. 3 stars.
Absolutely brutal but amazing too. Feet slipped off the smooth right wall as i laybacked the start and fell off. Climbed second try. Seriously hard route, enjoyed the struggle. 3 stars.
tprebs 25 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
with JackM92
with JackM92
Tom Livingstone 14 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
with Ben Silvestre
with Ben Silvestre
Flavio 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Bloody jammin' amazing. I found it better than Cenotaph. ****
Bloody jammin' amazing. I found it better than Cenotaph. ****
JendeHoxar 3 Jun, 2017 2nd dog
with Flavio
with Flavio
clams ?Jun, 2017 2nd dog A crack to desire. Tried to lead, fell off low down. Seconded with one rest. To give this E1 is a bit macho. 5.10c
with Jim
A crack to desire. Tried to lead, fell off low down. Seconded with one rest. To give this E1 is a bit macho. 5.10c
with Jim
tprebs 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S steep hand jammy goodness
with cjcuni
steep hand jammy goodness
with cjcuni
Sardien 8 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S This was so good! What a feast of jamming and bridging, grateful for the seconding as the start was particularly nails but keen to lead it next time
with Kate
This was so good! What a feast of jamming and bridging, grateful for the seconding as the start was particularly nails but keen to lead it next time
with Kate
cjcuni ?Apr, 2017 2nd dog Jesus this was rough, still need more practice at cracks and being a strong bastard.
with tprebs
Jesus this was rough, still need more practice at cracks and being a strong bastard.
with tprebs
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Ids1165 ??, 2017 Lead
beagly77 ??, 2017 -
beagly77 ??, 2017 -
Jim Slater 31 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 31 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Sustained steep HVS jamming, great fun
Sustained steep HVS jamming, great fun
Tom Livingstone 9 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
with Ben Bransby
with Ben Bransby
wi11 8 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
with Tim Neill
with Tim Neill
Andy Peak 1 5 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Bottom 5 m is the crux, 5 pieces of gear was just enofe! Super fun
Bottom 5 m is the crux, 5 pieces of gear was just enofe! Super fun
UncleMephisto 31 May, 2016 2nd O/S Couldn't get off the ground on this when we tried it last year. As burly as it looks. Inspiring lead by Darren.
Couldn't get off the ground on this when we tried it last year. As burly as it looks. Inspiring lead by Darren.
shed_hed 31 May, 2016 Lead O/S Laybacking and bridging test piece! Was very strenuous, would have certainly been easier to jam up it if I could jam. Really had to fight my way up this one, got plenty of rests in between sections though, including a handsfree sit down just below the top. Took triple sets of cams up this so had plenty of gear in!
Laybacking and bridging test piece! Was very strenuous, would have certainly been easier to jam up it if I could jam. Really had to fight my way up this one, got plenty of rests in between sections though, including a handsfree sit down just below the top. Took triple sets of cams up this so had plenty of gear in!
Dave Turnbull, BMC 5 May, 2016 2nd rpt
with Snort
with Snort
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Pete_Frost 2 Oct, 2015 2nd dog E2 5b is a fair grade for this - not E1 5b as in the definitive guide. Very poor feet on the right wall and the crack is hard to jam. Lay-backing would be tough and make it hard to place gear. Not a route I want to come back and lead.
with David Rumney
E2 5b is a fair grade for this - not E1 5b as in the definitive guide. Very poor feet on the right wall and the crack is hard to jam. Lay-backing would be tough and make it hard to place gear. Not a route I want to come back and lead.
with David Rumney
Dave Rumney 2 Oct, 2015 Lead
Rachel Slater 26 Sep, 2015 Lead RP Pretty much had to aid this on second maybe 4 years ago, today jams felt totally bomber!
Pretty much had to aid this on second maybe 4 years ago, today jams felt totally bomber!
tim newton 26 Sep, 2015 2nd β
richiebongo 17 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Only the best crack climb in the country.
with Phil Rossiter
Only the best crack climb in the country.
with Phil Rossiter
JRJones 7 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Bridging all the way! Very technical using minimal jams, probably harder work but less technical if you jam all the way. biggish cams appreciated
Bridging all the way! Very technical using minimal jams, probably harder work but less technical if you jam all the way. biggish cams appreciated
Hidden 7 Aug, 2015 2nd
Hidden 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Jun, 2015 2nd dog
Hidden 11 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
belay bunny turned bad 13 May, 2015 -
Albachoss 4 May, 2015 2nd β Jam or go home! An incredible crack climb that gradually gobbles up your hands
with Dougie
Jam or go home! An incredible crack climb that gradually gobbles up your hands
with Dougie
Wizzy 7 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2015 -
Vnockles 16 Nov, 2014 2nd
with Ian Faulkner
with Ian Faulkner
ian d f 15 Nov, 2014 Lead dog Fell near the bottom but got the rest.
with Tor
Fell near the bottom but got the rest.
with Tor
soph 4 Aug, 2014 Lead rpt Jammed to whole way up - progress :0)
with Steve Franklin
Jammed to whole way up - progress :0)
with Steve Franklin
Hidden 18 Jul, 2014 Lead β
bigbobbyking 29 Jun, 2014 2nd dog Lots of rests. I can't climb cracks!
Lots of rests. I can't climb cracks!
pearson9596 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with bigbobbyking, Tor Nockles
with bigbobbyking, Tor Nockles
tobydunford 30 May, 2014 2nd dog
with Harry Martin
with Harry Martin
Hidden 12 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Frank the Husky ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
soph 7 Jun, 2013 2nd
with Alex Hughes
with Alex Hughes
Tubs 31 May, 2013 Lead O/S Hard HVS for fellow grit monkeys, easy E2 if you are a reasonable jammer and probably impossible if you aren't.
with AJM
Hard HVS for fellow grit monkeys, easy E2 if you are a reasonable jammer and probably impossible if you aren't.
with AJM
AJM 31 May, 2013 2nd dog My good run of managing to second Tom's jamming routes despite a total inability to jam properly comes to an end! Fell off trying to jam the thin hands section at the bottom and annoyingly my foot slipped right up near the top too.
with Tubs
My good run of managing to second Tom's jamming routes despite a total inability to jam properly comes to an end! Fell off trying to jam the thin hands section at the bottom and annoyingly my foot slipped right up near the top too.
with Tubs
Nick Biven ??, 2013 Lead O/S
morganator 8 Sep, 2012 2nd
with soph
with soph
soph 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Helena Robinson, morganator
with Helena Robinson, morganator
Si dH 11 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Awesome jamming crack. Fairly soft for E2? A tricky bit in the middle where the crack got a bit wide but otherwise it was more like Peak HVS? I had to shunt cams almost all the way up as only had 2 that fitted 90% of it.
with Neil Furniss
Awesome jamming crack. Fairly soft for E2? A tricky bit in the middle where the crack got a bit wide but otherwise it was more like Peak HVS? I had to shunt cams almost all the way up as only had 2 that fitted 90% of it.
with Neil Furniss
Dan Vaj 6 Jun, 2012 2nd dog
with James McHaffie
with James McHaffie
dan ely 2 Jun, 2012 Lead RP 2nd go. jamming easy, bridging hard
with dan
2nd go. jamming easy, bridging hard
with dan
Hidden 23 May, 2012 Lead O/S
ksjs 28 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf Sweaty and painful and that was just the first few metres, beat a retreat. Can't see how this is E1! I'll be back with taped hands and cooler conditions...
with jo
Sweaty and painful and that was just the first few metres, beat a retreat. Can't see how this is E1! I'll be back with taped hands and cooler conditions...
with jo
Captain Gear ??, 2012 -
Ewan Russell 30 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ralph
with Ralph
Hidden 27 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
al99 10 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
centurion05 10 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S Jamming crack???? Just layback it to glory. One big hold all the way to the top. E1 5a/b
with al99
Jamming crack???? Just layback it to glory. One big hold all the way to the top. E1 5a/b
with al99
Owain Llewelyn 4 Jun, 2011 2nd
with Neil
with Neil
Rachel Slater 2 Jun, 2011 2nd dog nightmare. couldn't do it at all.
nightmare. couldn't do it at all.
Chi Cheng 2 Jun, 2011 Lead dog yo yo it 3 times (fell, did not pull the rope). after the 4th fall, sat on rope and then finished it clean. did not have enough cams with me.
yo yo it 3 times (fell, did not pull the rope). after the 4th fall, sat on rope and then finished it clean. did not have enough cams with me.
dan ely 23 Mar, 2011 Lead dnf nails
with tony (army)
nails
with tony (army)
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Rich Guest 11 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S Was i mysteriously transported to Indian Creek? Hot sunshine and spitter cracks! Proper old school jamming fest, crushed by a confused mixture of classy technique and gruelling determination :)
Was i mysteriously transported to Indian Creek? Hot sunshine and spitter cracks! Proper old school jamming fest, crushed by a confused mixture of classy technique and gruelling determination :)
Hidden 11 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
melonmike 27 Aug, 2010 2nd dog
80s pete ?Aug, 2010 Lead O/S The very best hand jamming corner crack in the UK. As i pulled onto the ledge and saw the corner in all its glory i remember finding it hard to swallow!! However, as with most climbs on the Cromlech its bark was muck bigger than its bite. Shame it's not twice as long. Some guy in Joe Browns shop told me it has been down graded to E1? It felt pretty E2 to me.
The very best hand jamming corner crack in the UK. As i pulled onto the ledge and saw the corner in all its glory i remember finding it hard to swallow!! However, as with most climbs on the Cromlech its bark was muck bigger than its bite. Shame it's not twice as long. Some guy in Joe Browns shop told me it has been down graded to E1? It felt pretty E2 to me.
TomPR 3 Jul, 2010 Lead
Hidden 17 Jun, 2010 2nd dog
Misha 31 May, 2010 Lead O/S Didn't think I'd get up this clean so very pleased! The first half of the route provided the hardest jamming I had ever done but managed to keep going to the rest, after which the going got easier thanks to decent footholds on the side walls. Unloaded a double set of #1 to #3 cams in row, plus a hex at head height and the chockstone at the top, so pretty well protected.
with Ian W
Didn't think I'd get up this clean so very pleased! The first half of the route provided the hardest jamming I had ever done but managed to keep going to the rest, after which the going got easier thanks to decent footholds on the side walls. Unloaded a double set of #1 to #3 cams in row, plus a hex at head height and the chockstone at the top, so pretty well protected.
with Ian W
Hidden 24 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Apr, 2010 2nd dog
eddy-on-the-rocks 15 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Terry
with Terry
Hidden 2 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Ram MkiV 22 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
david morse 8 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S Should be 11a, not E2!
with mikey R+Steve
Should be 11a, not E2!
with mikey R+Steve
melonmike 8 Aug, 2009 2nd
mattyork2 11 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Johnny Richard
with Johnny Richard
Hidden 4 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Swotson 24 May, 2009 2nd dog Massively strenuous and technical. Was doing OK with the jamming and bridging until the crack widened. I didn't manage to master the arm jamming technique. Still, good strength training exercise!
with Tony Madden
Massively strenuous and technical. Was doing OK with the jamming and bridging until the crack widened. I didn't manage to master the arm jamming technique. Still, good strength training exercise!
with Tony Madden
Ian Parnell ?Apr, 2009 Lead
with Matt Heason
with Matt Heason
Hidden ??, 2009 -
Hidden 27 Sep, 2008 Lead
Hidden 25 Sep, 2008 2nd dog
Hidden 20 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
barni 19 Sep, 2008 Lead
with Oli
with Oli
The old James turnbull ?Jun, 2008 Lead
with aiden
with aiden
barni 15 May, 2008 2nd
Mark Stevenson 12 May, 2008 Lead rpt
with Herrie Heckman
with Herrie Heckman
Al Evans ??, 2008 -
Alex Mason 4 Apr, 2007 Lead one fall about 6inches from the top easy bit gutting. awesome line, totally brutal, must do.
with Adrian Berry
one fall about 6inches from the top easy bit gutting. awesome line, totally brutal, must do.
with Adrian Berry
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
feilx 22 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S Quality
with Ian Lovatt
Quality
with Ian Lovatt
dan gibson 13 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S a ladder of bomber jams.The file on higgar tor is harder
with john nuttal
a ladder of bomber jams.The file on higgar tor is harder
with john nuttal
jim robertson ??, 2006 -
Si Witcher ??, 2005 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden ?Jun, 2004 Lead rpt
with Al (V12), Anne Vowles
with Al (V12), Anne Vowles
Hidden 15 May, 2004 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 24 Aug, 2003 2nd O/S
with Paul Collis
with Paul Collis
AlexRenshaw 9 Jun, 2003 Lead
Hidden 5 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 14 Sep, 2002 2nd O/S
Neil McA 18 Jul, 2002 Lead O/S Very good indeed!
with Paul Jenkinson
Very good indeed!
with Paul Jenkinson
Enty ??, 2001 Lead
tuftynick ??, 2001 -
tuftynick ??, 2001 Lead
Hidden ?Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??, 2000 Lead Had 2 sets of Friends but still had to shuffle the key sized ones up as I went
with Dale Holding, Mark Gray
Had 2 sets of Friends but still had to shuffle the key sized ones up as I went
with Dale Holding, Mark Gray
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Roget 16 Jun, 1999 2nd O/S
with baccy
with baccy
Mark Riley ?May, 1999 Lead dog
with Richard Ibberson
with Richard Ibberson
WB ??, 1998 Lead O/S
tmawer 28 Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
with Andy Taylor
with Andy Taylor
Hidden 18 Jul, 1994 2nd
auld al ??, 1994 -
nuts and bolts ?May, 1992 -
phardman ??, 1992 -
pauldrew ??, 1991 2nd
with Ian Lewis
with Ian Lewis
Hidden ??, 1991 Lead
Derek Ryden ?Jun, 1990 Lead O/S
with Mark Lee
with Mark Lee
Alan Cameron-Duff ?Jun, 1990 -
with Ian Lee, Heather, Toby, Dave Swaine
with Ian Lee, Heather, Toby, Dave Swaine
Hidden ??, 1990 -
michael burrows 4 Jun, 1989 2nd
with brian jones
with brian jones
Hidden ??, 1989 2nd
Hidden 28 Jun, 1988 2nd
MikePycroft 21 May, 1988 2nd
steveb2006 21 May, 1988 Lead
Dave Musgrove 1 May, 1987 Lead O/S
with Kim Greenald
with Kim Greenald
UKB Shark ?Jul, 1986 Lead
with Charlie Stripp
with Charlie Stripp
Brian Wilderspin 3 Jul, 1985 Lead O/S
with Craig Howie
with Craig Howie
Melok ??, 1985 -
Steve Bell ??, 1985 -
Mark Kemball 18 Oct, 1980 Lead
with Bill McKee
with Bill McKee
Hidden ??, 1980 -
clanger ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
petemeads ??, 1977 Lead Best gritstone crack in Wales...
Best gritstone crack in Wales...
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 40
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set