58m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A 'Classic Rock' tick taking on the well defined right-to-left diagonal line that slants up the left side of the crest of the buttress. Start at a peg and nut belay at the top of Exhibition Slab.
1) 4c, 20m. Move left 6m to a wide corner. Climb the corner to a peg and the make a precarious sequence of moves left across the wall to an easing. Continue traversing left beneath the overhangs and then step down to a sloping niche and peg and nut belays.
2) 4a, 14m. Step back right and move up and then left to pass the overhang. Climb a slab on the left to a small tree and then continue up a short steep crack to a larger tree and belay.
3) 4b, 24m. Behind and left of the tree is a wall with a borehole. Take the wall via diagonal cracks, steep at first, to an easing up and left. Continue up ledges past a vertical iron spike and then via easier ground to the top and a substantial twin tree belay. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon VSes.

Hidden 08/Feb Lead
Drummerboy444 25/Jan AltLd O/S
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Hidden 29/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/16 AltLd
Nick Arthur 02/Oct/16 AltLd

Great sunny climb, the top two pitches were definitely the better ones, not helped by the fact that I made an unnecessary detour up the face right of the groove to avoid the polish...

with Libby Clarke, Ewan Thompson
Dave Latimer 07/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
KevB 31/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
SenzuBean 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Oh dear... Couldn't tell where the route went easily (unfamiliar guide, and only photos on a phone). Rained on just after the crux (whew). Went extremely far off-route on the last pitch, and had to downclimb 5-6m of fairly technical 4b terrain above my last gear to regain the route. But glad to have done it :) Would've been a much better route with more gear, and less pitons. Wtf was this "obstetrician move" - didn't see anything like that.

with Manoj
bob johnson 08/Aug/16 -
with Rich Ball
Claireybloomers 25/Jul/16 AltLd
with Andy
andy dunn 25/Jul/16 AltLd
with Claire
will484 17/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Pitch two

with paul sheridan
DaveX 18/Jun/16 2nd O/S

Horrific first pitch of pure polish. Decidedly unpleasant climbing. Pitches two and three much nicer and a lot more enjoyable.

Sverre Aarseth Tunstad 06/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Sam de Belder
PeteMc 05/Jun/16 AltLd

HVS finish

Hidden 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
nathanjmasters 03/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

A lovely morning ascent. Despite the polish a great route with a mix of overhangs, slabs and juggy climbing towards the top. Lydia getting into the swing of leading again :)

with Lydia King
Anouk Spelt 03/Jun/16 AltLd
with Cara, Matt
hutchay 15/May/16 2nd
miriamclaire 15/May/16 AltLd O/S

I led first and third pitch

with hutchay
JGriffiths 12/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3

AshBarnes 12/May/16 AltLd O/S

Lead the 2nd pitch. Easy route. Good fun. Standard Avon gorge.

with Jake
Mike Hood 26/Apr/16 Lead
with Cora
catty_9 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Seconded pitch 1. Ran pitches 2 and 3 together on lead.

Angrypenguin 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Nice route but very polished. Might have been good 50 years ago but as is, there is better on main wall.

with Cat
KatOstrich 23/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Lead p1, p3 on the ubmc alumni dinner weekend

with Matt
Hidden 17/Apr/16 Lead
steve_gibbs 13/Apr/16 2nd rpt
with Alex Rhodes
Alex_RhodesUK 13/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Pleasant despite a few polished foot placements

munromoffat 13/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Riccy led the first two pitches and I led the third pitch

Hidden 13/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Peter Rosso 04/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with UBES, Alasdair Robertson
UBES_Bristol_Expeditions 04/Apr/16 Lead
Hidden 02/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Dan0Me 23/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Moritz L 23/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Led 2 and 3. Relatively straight forward, fun climbing.

Matt Smith 05/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Not as "classic" as some others, but still some nice moments.

Hidden 05/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Cheese Monkey 28/Jan/16 AltLd rpt
with Liam J
HimTiggins ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 23/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Dec/15 2nd O/S
Adrian Eggleton 02/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Chris led 1 & 3, I led 2

with Chris Shorrock
James S ?/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

nice to get this done after being rained off the first pitch years ago. The rain still came during pitch 2 making it very full value for vs!

with melty
cameron_hall 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Tom Barrett
Hidden 14/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Doug miller 14/Oct/15 AltLd

Wildblood P1, Me P2, Joyce P3, really enjoyable classic route,

cwildblood 14/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Matt1234 12/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
philmcf ?/Oct/15 -
lcullum7 28/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
alan rosier 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Not great and polished.

Hidden 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Alex Winter 22/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Did in four pitches. Had to sit out a couple of showers on the belays.

with J. Winter
Rachael88 19/Sep/15 2nd

Enjoyed the route. The first pitch certainly lives up to the routes reputation! Really good day over all

BStar 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3, rather polished on P1 apart from that it's a great route.

Trevers 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led the second pitch. Tricky, interesting moves on polished rock and some great variety. Really good climb overall!

with Rachael, BStar
JoeCoxson 18/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Not as polished as I was expecting, very worthwhile route.

lukegorman 18/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

4a pitch

with Olly maskery, Joe Coxson
omaskrey 18/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

3rd pitch.

9fingerjon 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Great line, shame about the polish - esp on pitch 1

with Adam bro
Hidden 04/Sep/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden 04/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Rob Moorcroft 29/Aug/15 2nd
with Richard Ive
WillAndrew 27/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Ali
ali.scott 27/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

led first pitch and a bit of the second (by accident)

Hidden 12/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 12/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 11/Aug/15 -
jsmcfarland 10/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Olly led the first pitch (I.e. the hardest and most polished!) which is really insecure in the giant scoop, slipping off there wouldn't be very fun for the leader. I ran the last 2 pitches together and near enough solo'd them, they are pretty easy. a 50m rope will just about let you get to the bomber tree root for a belay!

Hidden 10/Aug/15 AltLd
jvarmstrong 16/Jul/15 AltLd

led p1

with Chris
Chris Manasseh 16/Jul/15 AltLd

Led P 2+3 as 1

with John Armstrong
Slick 09/Jul/15 -
steve_gibbs 05/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Pauline Picchio
67hours 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

P1 and 3. Casual polish at every turn.

with Emilyford
Hidden 25/Jun/15 Lead O/S
nickwhimster 25/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with dan
Hidden 25/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
bonoid 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S

First route in the gorge for a while. Bit polished in places but a fun route!

Mr-Cowdrey 14/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led the 2nd pitch. Plenty of pitons to clip, little bit of polish but a good climb.

with chris ridgers
Hidden 14/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Boogs 11/Jun/15 2nd β
beds74 11/Jun/15 Lead

Nice, it is polished but if you look you can put your feet mostly on holds that aren't that polished. Shame about the road noise but you forget this whilst your climbing. Thanks to Leon for meeting up!

with Boogs - Leon
purpledistorsion 10/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/May/15 Lead
cwildblood 21/May/15 Lead O/S

p1 & 3 shaun, p 2 & 4 myself,

Hidden 17/May/15 AltLd O/S
andrewmc 17/May/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 3/3. Polished :( but then I do hate limestone...

huwmjames 17/May/15 2nd β
ewalker278 17/May/15 AltLd
danieleaston 13/May/15 AltLd O/S

Led p2, found the polish difficult throughout

with Saz
saz_b 13/May/15 AltLd O/S

P1 and p3 - interesting p1! Gear is interesting but just enough. P2 bold up slab!

remus 28/Apr/15 Solo O/S

Nice line.

Rob84 25/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Brings new meaning to the word polished in places!

with Si White
Steve Bartle 23/Apr/15 AltLd rpt

Having seconded the whole route last year, it was great to lead pitches 1 and 3. Rob led pitch 2. Great route, even with the polish on P1

Rob Morgan 23/Apr/15 AltLd

Led second pitch, enjoyable climb! Was getting a bit dark on pitch 3!

will_benfold 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1

danbirkby 07/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

P1 & P3; Neil's first lead of the season (P2)

with Nige
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
mattkemp70 ??/2015 -
mattkemp70 ??/2015 -
Hidden 03/Oct/14 AltLd
Martin1973 23/Sep/14 AltLd
with Huw Gilbert
felixizzy 20/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P1 & 2

with Mike
sheelba 09/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Legs 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Very polished but a worthwhile route from the 'Classic Rock' era. Good moves on spaced gear.

Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
mikedevcole 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Kemics 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

In hind sight it would have made a lot more sense to run pitches 1 + 2 together. Some lovely shiny pegs along the way. Strangely there is still a utterly rank casin ring peg on the 3rd pitch...which is the only piece of gear in a long run out. Soft touch for VS and 4c.

with Juliuus
cheeky 10/Jul/14 -

Led Pitch 1, Mark Joined 2 + 3. Not a great route but got the classic rock tick!

mark4344 10/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

lots of new pegs! some polish higher up. joined pitches 2 and 3.

with Matt Payne
Callum Smith 10/Jul/14 AltLd

Two stars is fair. Not too glassy but getting there.

Hidden 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Steve Bartle 03/Jul/14 2nd O/S
gingerbex 02/Jul/14 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Loubylou 02/Jul/14 2nd

polished in extreme

with Simon Reynolds
Hidden 15/Jun/14 AltLd
j.buckley87 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Harder comms than the north face of Ben Nevis in a blizzard, but a great route.

Hidden 30/May/14 AltLd O/S
jon_ridley 21/May/14 AltLd O/S
Rebs 16/May/14 AltLd
bencaley 16/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Rebs
pheotleyr 15/May/14 Lead O/S

With variations - the Inverted V on the second pitch and the Direct Finish instead of the 3rd pitch, the latter is really good value HVS.

with Mike
Mayaculpa 15/May/14 2nd

With variations - the Inverted V on the second pitch and the Direct Finish instead of the 3rd pitch.

with Peter
joedoherty 04/May/14 AltLd O/S
mattprince 04/May/14 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch. Polished route.

tskelhon ?/May/14 AltLd
clmacdonald ?/May/14 AltLd
pheotleyr 29/Apr/14 2nd rpt

2nd pitch only.

with Oli
Hidden 29/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
crossdressingrodney 29/Apr/14 Lead
with Peter
Martin1973 23/Apr/14 AltLd
with Huw Gilbert
Dino Dave 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Dad
Matt Amos 14/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Barney Adams
Tristypants 12/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Nice outing, nice blalncey moves first pitch, nice little bit of exposure...

with David Pribelszki
matt.woodfield 10/Apr/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 30/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Ragingpossum 30/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and Thom did P2 and P3, would run the last two together in future. A good weaving line with some nice moves that are made a bit spicy due to the polish on P1

bigbobbyking 16/Mar/14 AltLd

Great climb. Not as polished as the reputation of the venue had led me to expect. A reasonably cool day probably helped. I led second pitch which was quite run out.

with Gary Connor
Hidden 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Pete Scott 08/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Climbed in 2 pitches

with Jimbo
matt_claydon 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Continued P1 to belay on the higher ledge before the slab on P2. Ran the rest of P2 and P3 together.

Hidden 22/Feb/14 2nd
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
Jonnie Watkins ??/2014 -
yesbutnobutyesbut ??/2014 -
casey johns 08/Dec/13 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1&3 first climb of the day so seemed a hard vs and polished but can also see why it gets the stars.

with Andrew willie wilson
Andrew will wilson 08/Dec/13 AltLd

Polished crux on pitch one is the worst I've seen!! Makes the moves very stiff for vs. rest of the route felt hs! Plenty of gear placements when you look. Remember to extend all pieces due to the direction of route! Good route in all pity about the shine

with casey
Hidden 24/Nov/13 Lead rpt
onlyfoddington 23/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

I enjoyed satisfying my classic rock itch. I lead the last pitch.

with James H
Kayan 23/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Nov/13 2nd
RamblingRyan 13/Nov/13 AltLd
with Col
Hidden 02/Nov/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Oct/13 AltLd dog
Matt_L_Robinson 20/Oct/13 AltLd

in the rain

avictimoftheDrpsycho 10/Oct/13 Solo O/S
AndySL 05/Oct/13 Lead rpt

Great, varied pitches with derisory protection from ancient pegs. The Obstetricians move was full of water. Take a steady second for the first pitch.

with Deano
lordsauce 16/Sep/13 2nd dog

Rained, slipped on first pitch. Lead by James Cullen.

stafford101 10/Sep/13 2nd rpt
George Frisby 10/Sep/13 Lead
with Chris
Hidden 09/Sep/13 Lead O/S
tobydunford 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
matt.woodfield 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
andy dunn 04/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
with Alan
Webster 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S

lead in two pitches, tried to string the first two pitches together but rope drag put paid to that, had to belay halfway through second pitch

machine45 02/Sep/13 2nd
Col Kingshott 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
jtree03 28/Aug/13 AltLd
with Col
Hidden 08/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Will Gordon 08/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & 3, Rich led P1.

Hidden 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
jalien 06/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

Led P1 and P3, M led P2 - good effort! Seemed harder than the final pitch, with bold moves up the slab

Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
sjbrook 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S


with Jamie
zcsharp 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Sam
localboy 11/Jun/13 AltLd β

Simon did P1 & P3, I did P2. P1 is still polished, but otherwise still a good route.

with Simon C
VPJB 09/Jun/13 Lead
panda70 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Matt Ryder, Tom Fraser
Dr Toph 05/Jun/13 Solo O/S
HarryB 04/Jun/13 AltLd rpt
with Tom
Anthony Dixon 31/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 31/May/13 Lead
BeccaSnowden 27/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1&3. Shame about the polish, a fun excursion nevertheless.

with Ben
Hidden 27/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/13 AltLd
carl_123 21/May/13 AltLd O/S

great climb, don't be put off by the name plenty of nuts around compared to other gorge VSs. superlight rocks came in handy. thought the first pitch was easier than both the others. the belay off to the left on the first pitch seemd awkward the twin pegs and nut on the right at the start of pitch 2 would have been better

Hidden 08/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 07/May/13 AltLd
Chazwoz 01/May/13 AltLd O/S

led the second pitch after seconding the first pitch of Central Rib

jonlord ?/May/13 Lead
tompilgrem 05/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Dad
bobpilgrem 05/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom
Hidden 02/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 04/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Approximately anyway. I took a lower line below and to the left of the original line on P2. (I think this is part of "central rib" in the rockfax book) I don't think that detracted too much from the route though, it was still very enjoyable. Shame about the polish, but this is Avon gorge!

with Emily
gingernick 03/Mar/13 AltLd
with Daryl
steve_gibbs 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Mustafa
Cheese Monkey 01/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

A bit dissapointing. P1 was excellent and the 1st bit of p2 though. The polish on the traverse is approaching Chudleigh levels.

with Goss
Deary65 19/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Split into 2 pitches. Very polished!

Eagertom 16/Feb/13 Lead

Some tricky moves traversing the roof leftwards, and a bit of faff abbing down to unclip the right rope from pegs to the right of the roof. On the whole, pitches 2 and 3 were much simpler, and the whole climb yielded some enjoyable views in glorious weather.

with Hugo Hunt
hp.hunt 16/Feb/13 2nd
GeorgT ?/Feb/13 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2013 -
Andy Chadwick ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
mikeydee135 ??/2013 Lead
Stanners 19/Oct/12 Lead rpt

Pitch 1 with no chalk was a grease fest for some reason. Pitch 2 and 3 was in down pour. None the less, banter with the G meister the whole way up and the thought of subway at the top made it a great laugh!

with Andy G
CreepingExcellence. 19/Oct/12 2nd O/S
steve-grigg 14/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead rpt
mattshort 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Si ?/Sep/12 AltLd
tim.fairhall 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led p1 & 3

with Matt
arandall 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3

Matt Schwarz 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

bottled crux on p1, retreated, pete managed it. the polish is pretty savage in places, and like all avon routes gear is spare

Wendy Watthews 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S


pheotleyr 28/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

better than my impression after doing it for the first time

with Colin
colin milton 28/Jul/12 AltLd
with peter
Hidden 13/Jul/12 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jul/12 Lead rpt
Mark Salter 05/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Led pitch 1

with Chris Shorrock
OC24 ?/Jul/12 2nd
timstyles 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

P1 Me, P2 Brian, P3 Jon

jon bradley 27/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
climbingchippie 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
George Frisby 14/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Chris
stafford101 13/Jun/12 Lead O/S

A thought provoking line. Only 4c because of the polish, requiring some careful footwork on the crux. Lead in 2 pitches, skipping the cave stance belay.

Murilo Lessa 10/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Alex Desborough
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead
btalbot 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Dad
steveprice.exmouth 04/Jun/12 AltLd

led p2

with David Coley
George Frisby 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Used a hanging belay on the 1st belay. Good climb

Hidden 24/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 16/May/12 AltLd O/S
mikeyg 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lead p2&3 as one

with Becky Butcher, Will Twigger
pheotleyr 01/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

polished, otherwise felt pretty easy, lead p1 and p2 as one pitch

with Todd
Rampikino 31/Mar/12 AltLd

Interesting, but never with enough continuous entertainment to truly relish the route. The polish was nowhere near as bad as I expected. The line is easy to follow (massive chalk palm hand prints for a start!) Generally good, but not amazing.

with Cat
Hidden 27/Mar/12 2nd
Stone Muppet 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with am
ben.richards 10/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
HarryB 26/Feb/12 AltLd rpt

Led P1 and 3

Hidden 16/Feb/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 12/Feb/12 AltLd rpt

Geo pitch 1-1.5, Chris pitch 1.5 to 3

with Geo
Pete Rigby ?/Feb/12 Solo rpt


Marti999 25/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Anthony Dixon 22/Jan/12 AltLd
Fatclimber 14/Jan/12 AltLd

I led the second pitch, which I found hard. Although having now read Classic rock and got the beta, think I would have found it easier.

with Lee
jezb1 08/Jan/12 AltLd

Very polished crux on P1. Not a 3 star route for me but not bad. (Ld p1)

sophiecb 08/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitches two and three; linked these together. One precarious, polished crux move on the first pitch. An enjoyable, if a little scrappy outing. Not quite worthy of three stars for me.

Hidden ??/2012 -
davidtrelawnyross ??/2012 -
Ian JL ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
Stewart Armstrong ??/2012 -
abtibbs ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Jack Verber
beckybutcher91 ??/2012 2nd
Andy Chubb 13/Nov/11 AltLd
with Nick Gregory
berndl 30/Oct/11 AltLd
Hidden 20/Oct/11 Lead
Gary S 15/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom Moat
Katherine Ross 12/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1 - first successful VS 4c lead :)Traversing left across the slab was really scary. Sorry for taking so long over it, Charlie!

cbeard 12/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
pffft 27/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Lovely Climbing. Not polished much at all. Very nice and didn't feel as run out as I was.

with Jojo Mills
patkubrick 12/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Climbed this on a wet and windy monday instead of work for Toms birthday. 2nd pitch was the worst polish and more than the 4a given. I lead 1 & 3 very enjoyable. Belayed from original stance on the two pegs plus tiny nut. next time will belay after next ledge.

djking1983 02/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Tom Seccombe 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with duncan
reece.robinson 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Went straight through 1st belay making it a 2 pitch route.

Kevster 21/Aug/11 Lead
DerwentDiluted 20/Aug/11 Lead
joeurwin 12/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Lead P1 & P2 clean then had to ab off as the rain came in. Will be back for the top pitch though, this is a lovely little route. Polish not anywhere near as bad as I expected.

with Heather
Hidden 11/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
SamStokes 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Another cracking climb, very polished but i suppose you have to expect that from a "Classic Rock route"!

JamesRich 09/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

A good route but the 3rd pitch is very polished at the start. Jack joined P1 and P2 together and I did P3

Quarryboy 09/Aug/11 AltLd rpt

First route I climbed with my first pair of 5.10 Anasazi Verde's. Slightly trickier than I remember But still soft for the grade none the less, just a little bold in places.

petegunn 28/Jul/11 AltLd

A good route, polished but not overly so. The main difficulties are on the first pitch

with Davina
Hidden 28/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Ant Mace 27/Jul/11 Lead β

Polished in places, but you can find alternative footholds. Very enjoyable for a Tuesday morning when I should have been working ;-)

with Mike Mace
yehti 23/Jul/11 Lead

1st pitch terrifyingly polished. The rest was much nicer.

girlymonkey 23/Jul/11 2nd
bonelessivar 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Andy
mandy 11/Jul/11 AltLd
with rick
kyle 01/Jul/11 -
Bobling 29/Jun/11 AltLd

Very nice, polish present but not a problem. Lovely climbing.

with James P
Poco Loco 29/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. Some interesting balance move on first pitch, good fun. The polish wasnt as bad as expected!

with Robert
Kate Edhouse 28/Jun/11 AltLd

Lead Pitch 2

Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead
DOVEY 14/Jun/11 Lead

Multi Pitch, 2nd Pitch Bold climbing!

with Billie x
PaulWatson 09/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Third pitch only, the best one - no horrid polish apart from very start, which is excellent

with Dan
Hidden 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
jas128 03/Jun/11 2nd β
Darrell Read 25/May/11 Lead
Hidden 25/May/11 2nd O/S
mullermn 15/May/11 AltLd O/S

Me 1 (in spitting rain) & 3, Kylie 2. Not very satisfying, didn't find my groove and took too long/got too nervous to be pleased with it. Brand new shoes, rain and a month off from trad probably not helping.

Tarquin 06/May/11 -
with Sarah
Slick 03/May/11 Lead

Didn't seem as polished as last year - strange!

Hidden 03/May/11 2nd
BB1 30/Apr/11 2nd

Very enjoyable, interesting little crux on the 1st pitch!

with P Ross
Dave Ing 22/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Led first pitch happily but second needed to ab off after getting the fear on the polished, traversing crux move.

with Ruth
Joolz 21/Apr/11 AltLd

HVS finish.

with Relph Higson
hutchay 18/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

pitches 1 and 3

with Andy Clay
Stanners 17/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led P3. Great climbing! Not as polished as some routes but still annoying.

Quarryboy 17/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Joined the first 2 pitches together then Rob finished off the third. (speed ascent)

andy dunn 05/Apr/11 Lead rpt

A really good route. Not as polished as I remember either.

with Big Ben
kingrollo 02/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Great fun route

ashley_sandeman 02/Apr/11 AltLd

A nice climb chock full of pitons. The first pitch is the spicier of the bunch and the final pitches fairly mundane in comparison. Still, a good outing, and nice views from the beyal ledges.

with kingrollo
Jeavsy 01/Apr/11 2nd

Nicked off work early and climbed with Matt Swannell. First time back on steep rock for a while so Matt led all pitches. Weather fine.

with Matt Swannell
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Cornish_James 27/Mar/11 2nd
with Johnny Sneller, Ross Davidson
nick hawkins 22/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Pete did 1&2 together I did 3

halfwaythere 22/Mar/11 AltLd
Pete Rigby 14/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Night Climb

Hidden 09/Mar/11 2nd O/S
HarryB 09/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Led all pitches

aipattison 02/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 3, Al led P2. P3 was a bit of a scramble, but otherwise good route. A bit polished, but actually not that bad for the Gorge!

with UBMC
TDembrey 02/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Rob
Dave Ing 20/Feb/11 TR O/S

Solo top-roped whole route, re-anchored on descent to follow the route. Followed the line of polish and piton scars all the way up. Fun.

brianrunner ??/2011 -
31770 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
saintlade ??/2011 -
rurp ??/2011 Lead
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
Hidden 30/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
suffolknick 30/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 3 pitch, merl joined 1st and 2nd. Lovely 1st pitch.

with clams
kenneM 16/Oct/10 AltLd
with Steve Marner
Stan011 08/Oct/10 2nd
with Mike Coles
catemuir 06/Oct/10 AltLd

I started leading the 1st pitch then wussed out, so Alan lead pitch 1 and 3; I lead pitch 2. A pleasant route, but lots of the bolts seem pointless as there's good gear placements right by them.

clams ?/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

led p1 and p2 in one

with NB
_m.cox_ ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Jason Williams
TDembrey 17/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Lead P2&3. Clay P1.First pitch was very polished and caught me by suprise, the rest was good climbing.

with Clay
Clay C 17/Sep/10 AltLd rpt
with Todd
ron244 02/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Peter Bird
Hidden 15/Aug/10 AltLd
Tenko 15/Aug/10 -
with Guy Williams
Hidden 05/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 05/Aug/10 AltLd
localboy 03/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Simon lead 1 and I lead 2 & 3. Felt a long way between gear on occasion.

with Simon F
simonf 03/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1, Mike led P2 and 3

with Mike
Hidden 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Didymus 05/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

P1&p3. Polish not too bad. Great route: p2 obstetrician's move was tight, warm and very damp. Lots of pitons!

with Peet
Hidden 30/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S
ben bowry 29/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Caspar
dan ely 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

amazing. polished bad

with jon
Slick 21/Jun/10 AltLd
redshapedfriday 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

lead middle pitch, good climb

with gareth greeves
ron244 18/May/10 Lead O/S

Lovely climb, polish on first pitch not as bad as lead to believe.

mpc 18/May/10 2nd O/S

3rd pitch: really enjoyable, a great route.

Hidden 17/May/10 AltLd
Tom Brierley Gore 17/May/10 AltLd

I lead the middle bit, Neil the first and third bits... was kinda polished ! but good

Macca_7 07/May/10 Solo rpt

I was right it was a lovely route to solo!

katherinesydney 25/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

very shiny first section i led the middle bit

Hidden 24/Apr/10 AltLd
Macca_7 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 3. Really lovely route with fantastic character following an obvious line shame about the polish. A lovely route to solo I think. The traverse moves at the start are delightful!

gingergeorge 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Polished, ive seen less polish in Mr Sheen it makes the first pitch v un-nerving as I did not trust my feet. Collected 4 v short quick draws and sling on the route as it looked like someone had bailed out after pitch one.

with rcp
Quirina 19/Apr/10 2nd dnf

Epic number 2!

Hidden 19/Apr/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Clay C 18/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd and 3rd pitches

with Eleri
Hidden ?/Mar/10 AltLd
Rosea Day ?/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
with Thomas Heslam
TR909 ??/2010 Lead O/S
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
RM199 ??/2010 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch 4c

Fred_Richard ??/2010 Lead
sdi 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1&3 (backed off the HVS variation after seeing the peg!)

with Tom K
valuks1 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S

excellent outing once again, incredible to thimk it was first climbed over 70 years ago. Looking forward to the next ascent

Stone Muppet 19/Sep/09 -
Graham Westbrook ?/Sep/09 AltLd
Andy Clarke 29/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Don't be put off by some of the exaggerated comments about polish here. It's not particularly bad and doesn't much detract from a fine route. Led P1&3, with the HVS finish.

with Dale
TimPerkin 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Richard Harris
Dale ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Good fun route finger pockets good polish didn't bother us

with Andy
jimorothy 19/Jul/09 Lead

On drive south, after masses of rain and a cheeseburger. Very polished desperate traverse scared hell out of me, nice for an urban route.

with Rachel Crolla
Hidden 01/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
andy dunn 30/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

alan lead pitches 1 & 2 in 1 go - seems he was enjoying himself up there!. I finished up 3.

with Alan
Chris Sansum 13/Jun/09 AltLd rpt

I led pitch 1. Belayed a bit later than normal, which enabled us to do it in 2 pitches. Gary led pitch 2.

with Gary Lewin
ruaidh 06/Jun/09 Lead β

Classic? A bit dull I think, especially at the top. Best combined with top pitch of Central Rib.

with Andy Hickman
rorschach 01/Jun/09 2nd

Really is a classic, found the 'finger pockets' just when I needed them. Would like to lead next time. First pitch is most 'tricky', then easier after each pitch.

with Andy Hills
Rob Davies 24/May/09 AltLd

It was quite polished, even 35 years earlier but now it's a lot worse!

with Phil Ashton
EmmanuelF 10/May/09 Lead O/S

led pitch 1 arnaud pitch 2

with arnaud
richardadventurecafe 10/May/09 AltLd

Tricky Polished first pitch - rest straightforward.... interesting finger 'pockets' on pitch 2...

with Andy Owen
IanGilbertJones 04/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Richard Garnett
Hidden 29/Apr/09 AltLd rpt
mullermn 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Monk 18/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with Andy A, kylie
Kylie 18/Apr/09 2nd O/S

And Mullermn

with Monkey
Hidden 27/Feb/09 Lead
Monk 31/Jan/09 AltLd O/S

I lead 1st and 3rd. Excellent route.

with Matt Hartgrove
Hidden ??/2009 -
Spacetourist ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with Rosea
tombushell ??/2009 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
Hidden 11/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/08 AltLd
Protheroe 28/Sep/08 AltLd rpt
with Douglas Hamilton
Hidden 28/Sep/08 AltLd rpt
PaulWatson 25/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd (easiest) pitch. Excellent climb. Scary traverse on 1st pitch. You often only really appreciate good advice when you finally put it into practice, so thanks Alistair for the talk on feet the other week, it was invaluable.

with Muny
Al Franks 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
cy 22/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Al
Alasdair88 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
martinazando ?/Jun/08 AltLd
with Alex Walker
Hidden 08/May/08 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 07/May/08 Solo O/S

Moved together for a bit of alps practice

with Harry
beardy mike 26/Apr/08 Solo rpt

Well chuffed to have soloed this - first big VS solo and was very nevous about it but held it all together nicely apart from having a bit of a wobbler on pitch 3 at the steep bit which I've never liked even with a rope on!

Chris Sansum 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Weilin Wang
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Andrew1 30/Dec/07 Lead
with Rachel Smith
georgeevans88 ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Emily
Circus 20/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

1st and 3rd pitches. Bit of a faff trying to find third pitch. Started up HVS variation before reversing and going the right way.

with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 20/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

led pitch 2

with Adam
georgeevans88 ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Emily
Hidden 16/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Duncan I 16/Sep/07 Lead
with Toby Tyas
Hidden 09/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
chris sm 05/Sep/07 AltLd rpt

Led P2. Have doen others before many times...

cornishben 05/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

nice polish...

with Chris Sims
tom.e 01/Sep/07 AltLd rpt
with Charlie Everett
Al Palmer 01/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
with Ant
chedder 23/Aug/07 2nd
with chris thorne
lithos 21/Aug/07 AltLd

p1,p3. p1 polished horror. p2+p3 nice

WRMusall 19/Aug/07 AltLd dnf

Troy had to lead the first pitch and I bottled the second one. Had to absail from double pitons plus one nut. Troy recovered the gear.

with Troy
Caralynh 28/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

led pitches 1 and 3

dpmUK 28/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2

Hidden 27/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
maresia 14/Jul/07 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 04/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Started raining heavily after the first pitch, strung two and three together. Brilliant!

with Matt Frank
Richard Hall 16/Jun/07 AltLd
with Sam Kendrick
leigh 09/Apr/07 2nd
with Ed
jon thompson27 ?/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Lovely jubbly wouldn't want to have climbed in the 1940's though, slings to drape I see nowhere! Hobnail boots no chance, hemp rope around the waist just for shits & giggles not or me! Still a classic

with Alex Thompson
Hidden ?/Mar/07 Lead
mattf77 ?/Jan/07 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 -
haydng ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Rachel
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
simon kimber ??/2007 Lead O/S
sea_lene ??/2007 -
victim of mathematics 29/Jul/06 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 29/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
chiverstom 13/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Pitches 2 and 3

with Jonny
Hidden 13/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/06 AltLd rpt
sims 13/May/06 2nd O/S
with Nick
wildrover220 06/May/06 Lead O/S
with Neil Thomas
bpmclimb 04/May/06 AltLd O/S

I led P2.

with Clare & Sandy
Hidden 28/Apr/06 Lead O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S

Vastly over rated final pitch. Personally I finish up the last pitch of Central Rib giving more interest and making it more sustained. Otherwise a good route. Worthy of Classic Rock? Probably not...

with Many
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Bristoldave ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marcus ??/2006 -
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2006 -
with Clare
Hidden 26/Oct/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
Marq 28/Mar/05 AltLd O/S

D,M,D Variant 3rd pitch. Original grade VS 4b

with Daniel Dennehy
al99 ?/Jan/05 Lead O/S
with Jeremy king
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
phsharpy ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Bethan Davies
Hidden 02/Nov/04 AltLd O/S
furry 25/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Neil
FayeG 12/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Rory
ruaidh 12/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
mol 05/Jun/04 AltLd
with James Wasiak
Mark Davies PK ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Laura
Mark Davies PK ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Laura
BALD EAGLE 19/May/04 Lead
with Phillipa Beale
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/04 2nd O/S
krikoman 11/Oct/03 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Oct/03 AltLd
EllieWoods ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Simon Greenslade
Hidden 25/Mar/03 Lead O/S
WRMusall 11/Oct/02 AltLd

I lead the 4c pitch, Bryan lead the last 2 pitches in one push.

with Bryan Shenone
MikeC59 14/Aug/02 Lead
EllieWoods 06/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
with Trevor
Hidden ?/May/02 AltLd O/S
James Moyle 03/Apr/02 AltLd O/S
with P. McCourt
Paz ??/2002 Solo O/S
IceMonkey1982 ??/2002 -
AndySL ??/2002 Solo O/S

Third pitch only.

Boxy 20/May/01 Lead O/S
gimmer ??/2001 -
Hidden 07/Apr/00 AltLd
John Southworth ?/Mar/00 AltLd O/S
with Vicky Munn
Hidden 14/Feb/00 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
rc ??/2000 -
Bullybones ??/2000 -
greedo ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Steve Marriott
timreynolds 11/Jun/99 AltLd
with John Burnip
Hidden ??/1999 AltLd
kevp 11/Oct/98 Lead O/S
with Gareth Arnold
jim_randell 07/Jun/98 AltLd rpt
with PS
Hidden 15/Mar/98 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
JamieAyres ?/May/97 AltLd rpt
with Huw Davies
chrisrogers ?/Jul/96 2nd O/S
with Dave ?
WRMusall 05/May/96 AltLd
with Rick Stanley
tracyclimber 30/Oct/95 2nd

p1 only (E1), then p2 of Piton route (4a), then p2 of Great Central Route (4b). Piton Route - 2nd

tradguy 20/May/95 Lead O/S
with Ed Lamb
ed_1973 20/May/95 2nd
jim_randell 05/May/95 Lead rpt
with MS
mikej 16/Apr/95 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
Hidden ?/Mar/95 AltLd
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
chris wyatt ??/1995 AltLd O/S
with Surfer Mark
Mickdenali ??/1995 -

Took ages with "The Sloth" lol

with Keith Biddle
jim_randell 03/Dec/94 Lead rpt
with RL, SL
jim_randell 08/Oct/94 Lead rpt
with WW
jim_randell 13/Aug/94 AltLd O/S
with FW
Hidden ??/1994 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
AndyB123 ??/1989 AltLd
with Andy E
Nigel Coe 26/Nov/88 -
with Mike Scott, Tim Dunsby
BigHairyIan 05/Apr/88 AltLd O/S
GuySummers 05/Apr/88 AltLd
Moses 18/Aug/87 Lead O/S
mikej 12/Aug/87 AltLd
with Pete Rowbottom
Tony Buckley ?/Jul/87 AltLd
with Robert Clark
wbo 15/Oct/86 AltLd

One of my first leads. Traffic made communication impossible. And honestly polished as heck even then. 2*, don't think so

with Charlie Cochrane
Budge ??/1986 AltLd O/S
with Bonds Western
rogerskews 21/Sep/85 AltLd
with Martin Coward
Hidden 08/Sep/84 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/84 AltLd
JamieAyres ?/Jul/84 Lead rpt

Had swung leads with Phil before on this. Since done it loads more times..

Pete Nugent ?/Mar/84 AltLd
with John Derbyshire, Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
Hidden ?/Mar/84 AltLd
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/May/83 Lead
The Reaper 17/Apr/83 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1983 -
andy gittins ??/1983 -
charlesmfrench 25/Oct/82 AltLd O/S


RichardMc 26/Sep/82 Lead
with Pip Jones
stp 25/Mar/82 Solo rpt

Climbed in May 81 with ropes.

AlanLittle ??/1982 AltLd
John Marsland ?/Oct/81 AltLd
with Ian Stopforth
leland stamper ?/Sep/81 Lead O/S

bit polished

with hugh rawson
Nic Robinson 30/Aug/81 Lead O/S
with Alice Hampton
MikeDowsett 03/Jan/81 Lead
with Jon Sharpe
Paul Clarke ??/1981 -
mitch1960 ??/1981 AltLd O/S
with Andy Perkins
Hidden 03/Sep/80 2nd
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Mike C 24/Nov/79 2nd
with Walter Phipps
Nigel Coe 30/Sep/79 AltLd
with Steve Portnoi
duncan ?/May/79 Lead
Steve Lewis 08/Sep/78 AltLd O/S
with Pat
Bob M ??/1977 2nd
with Chris Bristow
Hidden ?/Jul/76 2nd
Ken Taylor 17/Feb/76 Lead
with Charles Towers
Mark Kemball 11/May/75 Lead
with Norman
Rob Davies 07/Dec/74 AltLd
with Joseph Cullen (ICMC)
Mark Kemball ?/Nov/74 2nd
with Charlie Cook
Nigel Bond 04/May/74 AltLd
with Pete Bott
tapley 30/Mar/74 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Steve Woollard ??/1973 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 19/Oct/69 Lead

How weird that this rather undistinguished, scruffy (traditional, quite demanding Hard Severe) route, worth one star at the most, is now a three-star VS. I wonder how this can be.

with Bob ('Ginger') Thomas
Dave Musgrove 20/Sep/69 AltLd
with Andy Wild, Dennis Gray
tutbury ?/Aug/69 -
with Fred Graham
Hidden ??/1968 2nd
Hidden ??/1965 AltLd
uphillnow ??/1965 -
Oliver Hill 08/Oct/64 2nd O/S

My first proper climb. Led 2 weeks later. It was polished then too. I can still smell it.

oldmanofmow 15/May/57 Lead O/S

Dave Morris and I on a RUMC meet at Avon, also climbed Desperation and another route

Fred S ??/1956 Lead rpt

The remark about 'Hobnailed' boots has opened memories. This route was my first proper lead in 1956. We had Viking nylon hawser laid rope tied round the waist and cheap plimsoles (daps) bought from Woolworths for 6s 8d (33p). As I remember it was then less than VS.

with Can no longer remember name
Melonfly ??/ AltLd

Haha, it rained 2 pitch. Ah well, all good fun.

with James
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 101
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 97
Votes cast 93
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set