Rockfax Description
One of the better climbs on the Left Wing featuring slab climbing in an impressive situation. The route is much harder when wet (which it often is). Start by scrambling 20m or so up the gully to just below a grassy bay.
1) 4a, 27m. Move up and right to a grassy ledge. Gain the slab above and traverse right to a large flake on the next grass bay.
2) 5a, 24m. Climb the flake and then scuttle left to a vertical rib and climb this with difficulty. Continue right across the diagonal slab passing a thread in the groove. Go up and right along the line of the slab/rampline below overhangs until below a short steep groove that leads to a ledge.
3) 4c, 23m. Often wet. Head left and start up the groove until moves can be made right to ledges and an easy finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
One of the better climbs on the Left Wing. Mainly slab climbing in an impressive situation.
1. 27mts 4a. Below a steep buttress, follow slabs right to a large flake.
2. 24mts. 5a. Climb the flake and then left to a vertical rib which is ascended (crux) and continue right across the diagonal slab (good thread), right again under overhangs, to the edge of the slab and follow a groove to the belay.
3. 23mts 4c. This pitch is often wet. Up the groove on the left, until obvious moves right to ledges and an easy finish.
J Brown , E D G Langmuir 08/Apr/1961.
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Clogwyn y Grochan)