78m, 4 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

C J S Bonington, M Thompson 1961

Ticklists

George's Evening Gorge Ticklist, CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

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UserDateNotes
badgerjockey 7 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Probably high HVS 5a (for P2). The belay trees on top of P3 aren’t the best. They’ll heave off one day in the future. There are high nuts above the top ash tree though. A bolt Would help!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Probably high HVS 5a (for P2). The belay trees on top of P3 aren’t the best. They’ll heave off one day in the future. There are high nuts above the top ash tree though. A bolt Would help!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
timmyhobby 16 Oct AltLd dnf lead first 2 pitches then bailed on pitch 3, lots of loose rock on the 3rd pitch, left a nut to ab back down to the second b-lay and droped a No2 nut onto the first b-lay ledge somewhere if someone wants them!
lead first 2 pitches then bailed on pitch 3, lots of loose rock on the 3rd pitch, left a nut to ab back down to the second b-lay and droped a No2 nut onto the first b-lay ledge somewhere if someone wants them!
Tom Last 26 Aug AltLd Led pitch 1. We got a bit lost on pitch 2, A flake snapped and just missed my head. Abbed off. Off piste Avon.
with Rowan Spear Bulmer
Led pitch 1. We got a bit lost on pitch 2, A flake snapped and just missed my head. Abbed off. Off piste Avon.
with Rowan Spear Bulmer
Dom Goodwin 10 Jul 2nd
nathanjmasters 3 Jul AltLd
with rosso
with rosso
rosso 3 Jul Lead G/U Lead P1, P2 and P4 Backed off in March cause I was being a lil whimp
Lead P1, P2 and P4 Backed off in March cause I was being a lil whimp
badgerjockey 6 Jun Lead O/S Been on the list for ages. Should be renamed, “What People Hate About Climbing in Avon”. Has it all: loose/detached rock, vegetation, runouts, vague wandery line, rusty pegs, barely-rooted tree belays, dusty holds, poor gear, awkward mantles, chossy topout. Despite all that, it made for a memorable adventure and still worthy of a star even! A committing crux on P2, exposed traverse on P3 and actually some of the grippiest rock in the gorge throughout. Hats off to Bonnington. Jen’s first multipitch too!
with Jen
Been on the list for ages. Should be renamed, “What People Hate About Climbing in Avon”. Has it all: loose/detached rock, vegetation, runouts, vague wandery line, rusty pegs, barely-rooted tree belays, dusty holds, poor gear, awkward mantles, chossy topout. Despite all that, it made for a memorable adventure and still worthy of a star even! A committing crux on P2, exposed traverse on P3 and actually some of the grippiest rock in the gorge throughout. Hats off to Bonnington. Jen’s first multipitch too!
with Jen
Steve Neads 5 Jun AltLd
markfromstoke 5 Jun AltLd
luke43 5 Jun AltLd
simibrown 4 May AltLd O/S Dusty and vegetated. Rich backed off p2 Crux. I had a go but came off. Poor pro. Abbed off from the p1 belay tree.
with Rich
Dusty and vegetated. Rich backed off p2 Crux. I had a go but came off. Poor pro. Abbed off from the p1 belay tree.
with Rich
David Clover 25 Feb Lead O/S Lead all pitches. Dangerous loose block at the base of the groove on pitch 2. Spooky
Lead all pitches. Dangerous loose block at the base of the groove on pitch 2. Spooky
Dom Goodwin 14 Feb 2nd dog Lovely in the gorge today. Brilliant climb, though tough in places. Pitch 3 is marvellous, and requires thought from the leader to protect their inept second (me). ;-) Hint: don't try to foot traverse!
Lovely in the gorge today. Brilliant climb, though tough in places. Pitch 3 is marvellous, and requires thought from the leader to protect their inept second (me). ;-) Hint: don't try to foot traverse!
jamieevans 14 Feb Lead rpt
Fakey Rocks 31 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Don't fancy bringing any more of this one up!...Hard + pretty scary for the grade imo, getting on for e1 5a/5b. Lead p2 + 4. A cluster of half good gear quite below high crux on P2, even if its only a 10m pitch!. Well i thought that had been the crux until I then tried the mantel to finish... then really feeling quite run out! ( but probably actually only 2 or 3m). Looked OK but i might have made hard work of it by going to mantel on the lower most positive big edges, + didn't fancy trying to reach for assistance from slightly higher smaller dusty holds, as it felt too do or die half way through, could only just get my foot up + crank / push hard enough, might need to work on hip mobility a bit!... Very freaked me out, as off means probably nasty fall + hitting the slab area, or lots lower due to potentially poor gear ripping. Would have been OK leading p3, but is quite bold - hard moves at start mean a very big dangerous swing for the 2nd if off, but then gets easier. Some big sitting rocks at end of traverse need care, I wouldn't sling them as pro, not me personally! Route finding from there is tricky, best go up the harder cleaner rightish side. Finished P4 by going up + right around overlap, apparently 5a, p2 of Gold star, but felt soft. Perhaps feeling slightly purged now, + glad to be home drinking tea with Jaffa cakes again having had a proper Halloween !
Don't fancy bringing any more of this one up!...Hard + pretty scary for the grade imo, getting on for e1 5a/5b. Lead p2 + 4. A cluster of half good gear quite below high crux on P2, even if its only a 10m pitch!. Well i thought that had been the crux until I then tried the mantel to finish... then really feeling quite run out! ( but probably actually only 2 or 3m). Looked OK but i might have made hard work of it by going to mantel on the lower most positive big edges, + didn't fancy trying to reach for assistance from slightly higher smaller dusty holds, as it felt too do or die half way through, could only just get my foot up + crank / push hard enough, might need to work on hip mobility a bit!... Very freaked me out, as off means probably nasty fall + hitting the slab area, or lots lower due to potentially poor gear ripping. Would have been OK leading p3, but is quite bold - hard moves at start mean a very big dangerous swing for the 2nd if off, but then gets easier. Some big sitting rocks at end of traverse need care, I wouldn't sling them as pro, not me personally! Route finding from there is tricky, best go up the harder cleaner rightish side. Finished P4 by going up + right around overlap, apparently 5a, p2 of Gold star, but felt soft. Perhaps feeling slightly purged now, + glad to be home drinking tea with Jaffa cakes again having had a proper Halloween !
steve-grigg 31 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 1 and 3
Lead pitch 1 and 3
Jim blackford 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd rpt lead p3. the traverse was scary but really messed up above: missed out the gear by climbing a wall on the left and then boldy shuffling left. Apologies for the hour on the sharp end
lead p3. the traverse was scary but really messed up above: missed out the gear by climbing a wall on the left and then boldy shuffling left. Apologies for the hour on the sharp end
reubenhf 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Led 1+2 and 4
with Charlotte W, Jim blackford
Led 1+2 and 4
with Charlotte W, Jim blackford
norris.dan 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Alt leads and led p1 and p4. Mike led the headwall and mantel at p2 and terrifying run out traverse on p3. Nails with rain threatening when we hit p3.
with Mike
Alt leads and led p1 and p4. Mike led the headwall and mantel at p2 and terrifying run out traverse on p3. Nails with rain threatening when we hit p3.
with Mike
Ben.o.neill 12 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S P.3&4
P.3&4
Hidden 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd
julesmckim 19 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S with tremors 7a pitch as pitch 3. Enjoyed second pitch and top pitch - Rob took a harder variant
with Rob Smart
with tremors 7a pitch as pitch 3. Enjoyed second pitch and top pitch - Rob took a harder variant
with Rob Smart
evhall 8 Oct, 2017 AltLd rpt p2 and p4
with colin
p2 and p4
with colin
Martin Brierley 6 Oct, 2017 Lead G/U Although pitch 2 is the crux, don't write off pitch 3. I got greedy when I saw the pegs and ended up getting to climb an E3 5c. The traverse section is very wafty - especially for the second. An expensive day out - I dropped a new yellow size 2.5 friend and carabiner while my second dropped a large wire and his ATC while dismantling belay 3. Any info gratefully received.
with Danny Sigz
Although pitch 2 is the crux, don't write off pitch 3. I got greedy when I saw the pegs and ended up getting to climb an E3 5c. The traverse section is very wafty - especially for the second. An expensive day out - I dropped a new yellow size 2.5 friend and carabiner while my second dropped a large wire and his ATC while dismantling belay 3. Any info gratefully received.
with Danny Sigz
No? Yes! 4 Aug, 2017 AltLd chose the less 'sickening' 4b start
with Neil M
chose the less 'sickening' 4b start
with Neil M
ssslambooij 2 Jun, 2017 Lead
Hidden 12 Mar, 2017 -
Jim blackford 16 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S led pitch 1 and 2, quite slowly! Alex ran 3&4 together. pitch 3 is awesome and defo felt hardest bit of the route.
led pitch 1 and 2, quite slowly! Alex ran 3&4 together. pitch 3 is awesome and defo felt hardest bit of the route.
Bristol_Quornstar 16 Feb, 2017 AltLd O/S Think we have a contender for a speed accent on this route. Alt-led with Jim taking P1 & 2, while I strung together P3 & 4. All smooth until Matt seconded up last and got stuck far right near Bisector wall, ending up having to prussick out! In total, nearly 3.5hrs until the last man topped out.
with Matt Keilan, Jim Blackford
Think we have a contender for a speed accent on this route. Alt-led with Jim taking P1 & 2, while I strung together P3 & 4. All smooth until Matt seconded up last and got stuck far right near Bisector wall, ending up having to prussick out! In total, nearly 3.5hrs until the last man topped out.
with Matt Keilan, Jim Blackford
Hidden 29 Nov, 2016 AltLd dnf
Hidden 29 Nov, 2016 AltLd dnf
youwillfindjimbo 11 Nov, 2016 AltLd rpt
Fatclimber 11 Nov, 2016 AltLd P1 and P4
P1 and P4
Hidden 18 Oct, 2016 AltLd RP
clipskipper 17 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Fair grade for the route. Pitches 2 & 3 the meat of it
with Robert
Fair grade for the route. Pitches 2 & 3 the meat of it
with Robert
evhall 13 Apr, 2016 AltLd rpt P1 and p2 as one
with David
P1 and p2 as one
with David
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
SGD 9 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S I Led P2 and P3.5... P2 felt like 5b to me. Loose rock and bold to the belay. Jonny backed off the Traverse on P3 so he set a intermediate belay in the groove and I finished the pitch which again was bold and there is a large loose block at the base of the groove after the traverse. It is just sitting on the sloping ledge!. Last pitch was actually quite nice, so was topping out in a park :)
with Jonny WMC
I Led P2 and P3.5... P2 felt like 5b to me. Loose rock and bold to the belay. Jonny backed off the Traverse on P3 so he set a intermediate belay in the groove and I finished the pitch which again was bold and there is a large loose block at the base of the groove after the traverse. It is just sitting on the sloping ledge!. Last pitch was actually quite nice, so was topping out in a park :)
with Jonny WMC
richsmithinbristol 8 Feb, 2015 Lead
shoulders 8 Feb, 2015 2nd O/S First pitch only to get to indecent. Classic avon
First pitch only to get to indecent. Classic avon
will_lake 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Richardlake 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Will ran pitch 1 & 2 together, Me pitch 3 & 4. Upper end of the grade. The traverse is quite nerve wracking and the grove after it quite pumpy...
Will ran pitch 1 & 2 together, Me pitch 3 & 4. Upper end of the grade. The traverse is quite nerve wracking and the grove after it quite pumpy...
Hidden 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 31 Aug, 2014 Lead
AndrewCollins ?Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
with Finan
with Finan
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 2nd dog
squicky 26 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Felt hard and lacking protection, especially the first pitch.
Felt hard and lacking protection, especially the first pitch.
pheotleyr 26 Jul, 2014 AltLd rpt Tried first pitch alternative version up to borehole, but only had one OKish micro in and moves looked hard, so downclimbed again and did the standard version. Finished on last pitch of Gold Star.
with squicky
Tried first pitch alternative version up to borehole, but only had one OKish micro in and moves looked hard, so downclimbed again and did the standard version. Finished on last pitch of Gold Star.
with squicky
duncan 26 Jul, 2014 AltLd rpt
with Mimoo
with Mimoo
Tom Brierley 25 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Did in two pitches, 1st pitch no gear but not hard, 2nd pitch lots of gear and great climbing. Sorry i can't remember the name of my partner - but they are very experienced - and wisely steered me on route as i started to eye up the short E3 alternate with a shiny new peg in it on the 2nd pitch :P
Did in two pitches, 1st pitch no gear but not hard, 2nd pitch lots of gear and great climbing. Sorry i can't remember the name of my partner - but they are very experienced - and wisely steered me on route as i started to eye up the short E3 alternate with a shiny new peg in it on the 2nd pitch :P
Hidden 17 Jun, 2014 AltLd
Nick Russell 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Started direct P1 and finished right of the overhang P4. Good climbing P2+3 but a bit too much mud and vegetation to be worth more than one star. Take care to protect the second for the P3 traverse!
with Emily
Started direct P1 and finished right of the overhang P4. Good climbing P2+3 but a bit too much mud and vegetation to be worth more than one star. Take care to protect the second for the P3 traverse!
with Emily
corinrathbone 31 May, 2014 2nd
with Łukasz Harazin
with Łukasz Harazin
LucasHarazin 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S
youwillfindjimbo 29 May, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Neil
with Neil
Neil 29 May, 2014 AltLd
Lev 11 May, 2014 Lead
with Emma
with Emma
Hidden 11 May, 2014 2nd O/S
Nialllusby ?May, 2014 AltLd O/S I led the 2nd pitch (5a one) with a dodgy leaping mantle which freaked Emma and Lev out.
with Lev, Emma Ross
I led the 2nd pitch (5a one) with a dodgy leaping mantle which freaked Emma and Lev out.
with Lev, Emma Ross
Hidden 12 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Mar, 2014 2nd
Neil ??, 2014 Lead O/S
Kemics 8 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S led pitches 2,3. Had a horrifying foot slip after the crux on pitch two but managed to hold on...but shaken! No gear is exactly brilliant but something would hold. Moving up through the crux on pitch 3 felt every inch E1 5a at the time...but i probably missed something. Overgrown, muddy, loose, shit gear and manky pegs...almost adds to the charm
led pitches 2,3. Had a horrifying foot slip after the crux on pitch two but managed to hold on...but shaken! No gear is exactly brilliant but something would hold. Moving up through the crux on pitch 3 felt every inch E1 5a at the time...but i probably missed something. Overgrown, muddy, loose, shit gear and manky pegs...almost adds to the charm
Steve Neads 8 Aug, 2013 -
pheotleyr 8 Aug, 2013 AltLd rpt Led the crappy 1st pitch, seconded the 2nd and 3rd (which are good) and then led the last pitch of Gold Star which we did instead of the easy finish of Puke (that's go right below the overhang instead of left as for Gronk), which is definitely the more suitable finish to Puke at nice HVS soft 5a.
with Kemics
Led the crappy 1st pitch, seconded the 2nd and 3rd (which are good) and then led the last pitch of Gold Star which we did instead of the easy finish of Puke (that's go right below the overhang instead of left as for Gronk), which is definitely the more suitable finish to Puke at nice HVS soft 5a.
with Kemics
markfromstoke 8 Aug, 2013 -
with Adrian, Steve Neads
with Adrian, Steve Neads
steve_gibbs 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
stafford101 26 May, 2013 2nd O/S Crux was very balancy - having a bag on made all the difference. Had to weight the rope to take it off. Challenging route!
Crux was very balancy - having a bag on made all the difference. Had to weight the rope to take it off. Challenging route!
petecallaghan 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S Lead P1, P2, P3. Steve lead P4 con brio. The crux move on P1 felt very necky with just one poor small wire for protection. Not strenuous, but delicate and requiring commitment over a solitary poor piece of protection. P2 was better protected, but good quality climbing. The traverse on P3 is very airy, but not particularly technical. Just delicate and protected only at the start and end.
Lead P1, P2, P3. Steve lead P4 con brio. The crux move on P1 felt very necky with just one poor small wire for protection. Not strenuous, but delicate and requiring commitment over a solitary poor piece of protection. P2 was better protected, but good quality climbing. The traverse on P3 is very airy, but not particularly technical. Just delicate and protected only at the start and end.
steveprice.exmouth 5 May, 2013 AltLd led p4 only. hard exposed moves on p1 2 3, led by Pete
with Pete Callaghan, Stu Fox
led p4 only. hard exposed moves on p1 2 3, led by Pete
with Pete Callaghan, Stu Fox
Murilo Lessa 6 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S Nice climb, maybe deserved of more stars. James led the first 2 pitches, the second is very short but the crux and badly protected. I did the traverse pitch and Alex finished the last short easier one. Nice day out.
with James Hall, Alex Desborough
Nice climb, maybe deserved of more stars. James led the first 2 pitches, the second is very short but the crux and badly protected. I did the traverse pitch and Alex finished the last short easier one. Nice day out.
with James Hall, Alex Desborough
therat 6 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead the first two pitches strung together. Nearly fell off the top of P2 but just managed to save myself by grabbing a tuft of grass!
Lead the first two pitches strung together. Nearly fell off the top of P2 but just managed to save myself by grabbing a tuft of grass!
evhall 2 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S p2,p3 and p4 in the dark...hint for p2 crux - ledges and holds on the left...
with Dave F
p2,p3 and p4 in the dark...hint for p2 crux - ledges and holds on the left...
with Dave F
Cheese Monkey 18 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S Excellent, p3 was straightforward, terrifying but well good.
Excellent, p3 was straightforward, terrifying but well good.
pheotleyr 18 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S 1st pitch OK (4c maybe), 2nd pitch good, 3rd pitch brilliant, 4th pitch mostly scrambling. 1 1/2 stars. Reasonably protected I'd say. Led pitch 2 and 4.
1st pitch OK (4c maybe), 2nd pitch good, 3rd pitch brilliant, 4th pitch mostly scrambling. 1 1/2 stars. Reasonably protected I'd say. Led pitch 2 and 4.
HarryB 13 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S Led p1+2 in one and p4
with zcsharp
Led p1+2 in one and p4
with zcsharp
zcsharp 13 Jan, 2013 AltLd dog
with HarryB
with HarryB
will moy 13 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
Jonnie Watkins ??, 2013 -
jcw ??, 2013 -
jon_ridley 1 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S Didn't understand the high peg thing on p3. Thought I was bailing out but apparently not!
with grp
Didn't understand the high peg thing on p3. Thought I was bailing out but apparently not!
with grp
grp 1 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
cbeard 26 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Tricky to find low traverse on P3 was interesting!
Tricky to find low traverse on P3 was interesting!
Hidden 26 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
aipattison 1 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1&3. P2 was hard with a rucksack on!
Led P1&3. P2 was hard with a rucksack on!
georgeevans88 1 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
Dale ?Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Excelent route a big whoop adventurneering. Thought this was hard for the grade though but it is my first route of this season. I lead pitch 2 and 3. Me and johny thought the route deserved E1, 4C, easy 5b, 5a, 4a, but probally is HVS Avon standards. Traversing from the peg spicy and very runout. Super
with johny
Excelent route a big whoop adventurneering. Thought this was hard for the grade though but it is my first route of this season. I lead pitch 2 and 3. Me and johny thought the route deserved E1, 4C, easy 5b, 5a, 4a, but probally is HVS Avon standards. Traversing from the peg spicy and very runout. Super
with johny
Hidden 26 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
Stanners 7 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S Standard first pitch, very spicy second pitch, awesome 3rd pitch!!!!!, standard finish. First route with new half ropes :) 2*
with James Rich, Martin Stanfield, Quarryboy
Standard first pitch, very spicy second pitch, awesome 3rd pitch!!!!!, standard finish. First route with new half ropes :) 2*
with James Rich, Martin Stanfield, Quarryboy
JamesRich 7 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead p.1 and p.4. I thought the second pitch was quite hard for the grade and the third pitch was pretty bold so well done Jack for leading those two.
Lead p.1 and p.4. I thought the second pitch was quite hard for the grade and the third pitch was pretty bold so well done Jack for leading those two.
Stanley 7 Jan, 2012 2nd O/S Awesome route, surprisingly hard and scary in places.
Awesome route, surprisingly hard and scary in places.
Hidden 7 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
Eike 6 Nov, 2011 2nd Fell when stepping onto the awkward traverse on the third pitch.
with Richard, Rob Scheichl
Fell when stepping onto the awkward traverse on the third pitch.
with Richard, Rob Scheichl
s.c.white 27 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Lead pitched 1 to 3. Felt a bit spicy on the second pitch. Pitch 3 is really fun! Skipped the last pitch because of the inherent darkness of night!
with Jonathan Fuller
Lead pitched 1 to 3. Felt a bit spicy on the second pitch. Pitch 3 is really fun! Skipped the last pitch because of the inherent darkness of night!
with Jonathan Fuller
Slick 28 Jul, 2011 AltLd Lead P1 & 3
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Lead P1 & 3
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Hidden 9 Jul, 2011 AltLd rpt
Lev 9 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Emma
with Emma
Hidden 23 Jun, 2011 2nd rpt
crossdressingrodney 23 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Led first 3 pitches. A pretty good route overall. First few metres are under the tree so remain damp a little longer after rain. A little loose rock here and there. First pitch tricky at 4b, but pleasant enough. 5a pitch a little strenuous but quite well-protected I think. Third pitch gets easier the further you get from the gear fortunately! Fourth pitch done in the dark, as usual.
with AlexM
Led first 3 pitches. A pretty good route overall. First few metres are under the tree so remain damp a little longer after rain. A little loose rock here and there. First pitch tricky at 4b, but pleasant enough. 5a pitch a little strenuous but quite well-protected I think. Third pitch gets easier the further you get from the gear fortunately! Fourth pitch done in the dark, as usual.
with AlexM
ashley_sandeman 17 Jun, 2011 AltLd β Excellent outing for me and The Norfolk Machine on our first HVS, with lots of scary moments. Lead P2 and P4. P2 is a thin crack with fairly decent gear requiring a cross layback on the crux (at least that's how I did it) then up to a good peg belay. P3's traverse holds all the exposed twitchy moments of the climb with opportunities to experience some good 'disco leg' (as with P2). You end it feeling like you've achieved something.
with Richard Miles
Excellent outing for me and The Norfolk Machine on our first HVS, with lots of scary moments. Lead P2 and P4. P2 is a thin crack with fairly decent gear requiring a cross layback on the crux (at least that's how I did it) then up to a good peg belay. P3's traverse holds all the exposed twitchy moments of the climb with opportunities to experience some good 'disco leg' (as with P2). You end it feeling like you've achieved something.
with Richard Miles
AndyMcCoy 26 May, 2011 2nd
Fred_Richard 26 May, 2011 Lead Lead all 4 pitches, P1 is 4b, no way! went to the corner on the left, I even slept of it. bad start. Then it took me some time to commit to the sustain second pitch, hard toping, nice hanging belay. Then the 4c airy traverse with no gear, absolutely terrifying! P4 is easy but a bit earthy at the top, finished in the dark. No ice cream :o(
with Andy Mccoy
Lead all 4 pitches, P1 is 4b, no way! went to the corner on the left, I even slept of it. bad start. Then it took me some time to commit to the sustain second pitch, hard toping, nice hanging belay. Then the 4c airy traverse with no gear, absolutely terrifying! P4 is easy but a bit earthy at the top, finished in the dark. No ice cream :o(
with Andy Mccoy
Hidden 3 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
bpmclimb 3 May, 2011 AltLd rpt Led p2 and 4.
with hms
Led p2 and 4.
with hms
Hidden 26 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Chris Sansum 9 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S Chris p1/3, Gary p2/4. Different start to when I'd attempted this previously with older guidebook. Great route, but a little dangerous in places!
with Gary Lewin
Chris p1/3, Gary p2/4. Different start to when I'd attempted this previously with older guidebook. Great route, but a little dangerous in places!
with Gary Lewin
31770 ??, 2011 -
Phil Murray 19 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S Led all pitches, found P1 hard (4b? how?), P2 was serious with a scary finish & a wobbly rock, P3: well thanks for the info, matt claydon, on the bomber nut, that confirmed I was at the right peg! Amazing, exposed traverse with no gear... belayed early then led last pitch to the RIGHT of the overhangs at 5a. Don't do this as your first HVS (it wasn't mine....) - it's a serious outing! But all the more memorable for it.
with Liz
Led all pitches, found P1 hard (4b? how?), P2 was serious with a scary finish & a wobbly rock, P3: well thanks for the info, matt claydon, on the bomber nut, that confirmed I was at the right peg! Amazing, exposed traverse with no gear... belayed early then led last pitch to the RIGHT of the overhangs at 5a. Don't do this as your first HVS (it wasn't mine....) - it's a serious outing! But all the more memorable for it.
with Liz
Tom D 24 Jul, 2010 Lead Lead all pitches really enjoyabal route. Though i got a bit carried away after the travers and went wildly offline ended up on Quick flash E5. massive lead out and the wrong belay ledge all added to the experience. Highley recomended just watch out for the wobbly flake on pitch 2 dont think its going to be thear mutch longer!!
Lead all pitches really enjoyabal route. Though i got a bit carried away after the travers and went wildly offline ended up on Quick flash E5. massive lead out and the wrong belay ledge all added to the experience. Highley recomended just watch out for the wobbly flake on pitch 2 dont think its going to be thear mutch longer!!
Tom D 24 Jul, 2010 Lead Lead all pitches really enjoyabal route. Though i got a bit carried away after the travers and went wildly offline ended up on Quick flash E5. massive lead out and the wrong belay ledge all added to the experience. Highley recomended just watch out for the wobbly flake on pitch 2 dont think its going to be thear mutch longer!!
Lead all pitches really enjoyabal route. Though i got a bit carried away after the travers and went wildly offline ended up on Quick flash E5. massive lead out and the wrong belay ledge all added to the experience. Highley recomended just watch out for the wobbly flake on pitch 2 dont think its going to be thear mutch longer!!
Pete Rigby ?Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Jim Tan
with Jim Tan
Dunx 29 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with joeym
with joeym
joeym 29 May, 2010 AltLd
with Dunx
with Dunx
simonf 25 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P2 and P4
with raingod
Led P2 and P4
with raingod
Lil_Pete 16 Apr, 2010 AltLd β Seems a bit funny saying I had beta - the beta I had was, "Don't go the wrong, opposite direction at the beginning of pitch 2." Coupled with, "Don't pull a f'ing great block your in your head, dribbling blood everywhere, this time." Needless to say, ticked pitch 2 off as done. Most importantly regained my nuts figuratively and literally!
Seems a bit funny saying I had beta - the beta I had was, "Don't go the wrong, opposite direction at the beginning of pitch 2." Coupled with, "Don't pull a f'ing great block your in your head, dribbling blood everywhere, this time." Needless to say, ticked pitch 2 off as done. Most importantly regained my nuts figuratively and literally!
matt_claydon 16 Apr, 2010 AltLd β Led P1 & P3 after backing off earlier in the week due to an 'incident'. Retrieved numerous items of crag swag; unfortunately they were ours anyway. Really nice route, especially the traverse on P3. Not technically hard but a lovely position. Used a bomber nut just below the peg that protects the traverse as thought the peg was looking a bit past its best.
Led P1 & P3 after backing off earlier in the week due to an 'incident'. Retrieved numerous items of crag swag; unfortunately they were ours anyway. Really nice route, especially the traverse on P3. Not technically hard but a lovely position. Used a bomber nut just below the peg that protects the traverse as thought the peg was looking a bit past its best.
matt_claydon 11 Apr, 2010 AltLd dnf Led P1, then Pete strayed 'slightly' off-route on P2 and pulled a large block off (onto his head). With blood streaming down his face, we thought it best to back off and leave it for another day. Shopping list: helmet.
Led P1, then Pete strayed 'slightly' off-route on P2 and pulled a large block off (onto his head). With blood streaming down his face, we thought it best to back off and leave it for another day. Shopping list: helmet.
Hidden 14 Mar, 2010 Lead RP
lizannday 14 Mar, 2010 2nd
with Pete
with Pete
Pete Polish 14 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
with Liz Day
with Liz Day
Hidden 14 Mar, 2010 2nd O/S
Cornish Cream ??, 2010 - P1 only
P1 only
Dave Cundy ??, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Nikos Peristeras
with Nikos Peristeras
Phil PBC ??, 2010 -
BruceW 20 Sep, 2009 Lead dnf Lowered Becca from spike and then absailed. Good 2nd pitch, horrible first pitch. Will go back for the rest!
with bectodd
Lowered Becca from spike and then absailed. Good 2nd pitch, horrible first pitch. Will go back for the rest!
with bectodd
Hidden 25 Aug, 2009 Lead dnf
Quirina 25 Aug, 2009 2nd dnf Excellent epic! Had a good look at grey piece of rock on 3rd pitch. Last car to leave the car park ;-)
with larsen
Excellent epic! Had a good look at grey piece of rock on 3rd pitch. Last car to leave the car park ;-)
with larsen
Joking 20 Aug, 2009 AltLd dnf Led 1st pitch succesfully but strayed off route, started to get dark so we ab'd off... It lives to see another day
with Tim
Led 1st pitch succesfully but strayed off route, started to get dark so we ab'd off... It lives to see another day
with Tim
Hidden 18 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
_m.cox_ ?Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Steve Winslow
with Steve Winslow
brady 15 Mar, 2009 AltLd O/S went off route, on pitch 3 which was very exposed over the rising traverse...glad it wasn't my lead!
with Martin Palmer
went off route, on pitch 3 which was very exposed over the rising traverse...glad it wasn't my lead!
with Martin Palmer
Hidden 4 Oct, 2008 AltLd O/S
mike88 25 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S Led all pitches
with Joe Daniels
Led all pitches
with Joe Daniels
Basey 3 Aug, 2008 2nd
Chris Sansum 27 Jul, 2008 Lead dnf Woosed out on the tricky move up the borehole on P1. Not fond of doing hard moves with fall potential above crap gear! Almost made it up the borehole though. Managed to place a couple of nuts in the borehole, but whether either would've held is debatable! I'll be back though!
with Gary Lewin
Woosed out on the tricky move up the borehole on P1. Not fond of doing hard moves with fall potential above crap gear! Almost made it up the borehole though. Managed to place a couple of nuts in the borehole, but whether either would've held is debatable! I'll be back though!
with Gary Lewin
Hidden 15 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Protheroe 26 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S pitch 1 and 4
with Douglas Hamilton
pitch 1 and 4
with Douglas Hamilton
Hidden 26 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S
georgeevans88 20 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with heallan
with heallan
Hidden 16 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S
bpmclimb 2 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S Thoroughly enjoyable.
Thoroughly enjoyable.
Huntlyfiddler 2 Feb, 2008 2nd
daveagriff ??, 2008 2nd
RagingPuffin ?Sep, 2007 2nd O/S
with James Burrows, Heather
with James Burrows, Heather
Hidden 27 Jun, 2007 Solo O/S
thomasadixon 2 Jun, 2007 AltLd rpt Got knackered trying to string pitch 1 and 2 together and backed off, led pitch 1&3 onsight.
with Christian
Got knackered trying to string pitch 1 and 2 together and backed off, led pitch 1&3 onsight.
with Christian
tom.e 25 May, 2007 Lead O/S Fun
with Charlie Everett
Fun
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 25 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 27 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S Led P1/2/4
with Joe
Led P1/2/4
with Joe
Al Franks ??, 2007 2nd O/S
with James Burrows and Heather
with James Burrows and Heather
pezzerrr 29 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
sdi 27 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S Top two pitches in the rain
with Luke H
Top two pitches in the rain
with Luke H
lukehodson 8 Oct, 2006 2nd O/S
with sdi
with sdi
Hidden 28 Jun, 2006 AltLd rpt
Hidden 9 Jun, 2006 Solo O/S
Marcus ??, 2006 -
beardy mike ??, 2006 AltLd O/S E1 original start which is VERY DANGEROUS!
with Rich Draisey
E1 original start which is VERY DANGEROUS!
with Rich Draisey
John Lisle ??, 2006 -
Hidden 27 Aug, 2005 Lead
phsharpy ??, 2005 Lead O/S
with Bethan Davies
with Bethan Davies
Paz 4 Oct, 2004 Lead O/S I emphasised it was a Bonners route more than it was a HVS to SB. Despite his mostly hill walking backround he managed it without too much use of the `confidence rope'.
with SB
I emphasised it was a Bonners route more than it was a HVS to SB. Despite his mostly hill walking backround he managed it without too much use of the `confidence rope'.
with SB
Hidden 8 Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
Lev 8 Sep, 2002 AltLd O/S Very exposed 3rd pitch, I had a bad foot so lead the 2 shortest pitches.
with Tom Elliot
Very exposed 3rd pitch, I had a bad foot so lead the 2 shortest pitches.
with Tom Elliot
Hidden ?Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
Jim Brooke 29 Apr, 2002 AltLd O/S
richsmithinbristol 29 Apr, 2002 AltLd
richsmithinbristol 29 Mar, 2002 Lead O/S
Boxy 24 Jun, 2001 Lead rpt
alan moore ??, 2000 - Bit wobbly.
Bit wobbly.
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Ally Smith ??, 2000 -
Hidden 17 Sep, 1996 Lead O/S
chris sm 9 May, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Ruth Taylor
with Ruth Taylor
jim_randell 22 Jun, 1994 AltLd O/S
with FW
with FW
charlesmfrench 2 Oct, 1993 Lead O/S
with Ann Fooks, Dave Fooks
with Ann Fooks, Dave Fooks
mikej 29 Jun, 1993 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
with Nick Salmon
Budge ?Jul, 1992 Lead O/S
with Brian Ottewell
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden 12 Jul, 1990 AltLd
Hidden 2 May, 1990 Lead
Nick Haine ??, 1990 AltLd
surfbish ?Mar, 1989 Lead O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1987 Lead
migs493 2 Mar, 1986 Lead
JamieAyres ?Jul, 1985 2nd dog fell 10' off 2nd pitch leading. struggled on pitch 3 traverse.
with Phil Windall
fell 10' off 2nd pitch leading. struggled on pitch 3 traverse.
with Phil Windall
pete johnson ??, 1985 -
The Reaper 12 May, 1984 AltLd
Pete Nugent 25 Sep, 1982 AltLd
with John McDougall
with John McDougall
Hidden ??, 1977 Lead dnf
Hidden 17 Feb, 1974 Lead
Steve Woollard ??, 1973 Lead O/S
deepstar ?Aug, 1969 -
with Pete Wells
with Pete Wells
Hidden ??, 1966 AltLd
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 47
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set