Rockfax Description
Just above the pinnacle is an innocuous-looking steep crack. Reach it by following The Cracks or Lorraine. Move up into the short crack to gain the sloping ledge. The next few feet provide a brutal and energy-sapping crux to gain the ledge above. © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Paulos87 25 Aug AltLd dnf Intended to do Direct Route... accidentally went up the GBH crack until it trends left and went straight up the mossy crack to the ledge up & left of Direct belay! No idea what to log it as, can't find it as a route but would be good if cleaned up. Pretty bold, felt at least E1
Intended to do Direct Route... accidentally went up the GBH crack until it trends left and went straight up the mossy crack to the ledge up & left of Direct belay! No idea what to log it as, can't find it as a route but would be good if cleaned up. Pretty bold, felt at least E1
Misha 26 Jun AltLd O/S A decent route which needs more traffic. Tim did a variation P1 in between the Cracks and the Direct due to congestion. I took the long P2, which is run out in places but never desperate. Was a bit unsure of the line but it made sense once done - move up from the belay, then follow a line of weakness up and trending left, before traversing sharp left into the last few metres of the crack on Lorraine Variation/Direct. There’s a feasible independent line between GBH and the Direct from where GBH trends left but it would be very bold. Tim battles with the short and sharp P3. In the end he went for the full on jams and ringlocks assault on the crack, whereas I opted for LH hugging the crack and RH on tiny flakes and slopers until I could get LH onto the good hold at the top of the crack. This felt a bit tenuous but not too hard, whereas the full on assault method seemed at least a grade harder than it’s supposed to be!
A decent route which needs more traffic. Tim did a variation P1 in between the Cracks and the Direct due to congestion. I took the long P2, which is run out in places but never desperate. Was a bit unsure of the line but it made sense once done - move up from the belay, then follow a line of weakness up and trending left, before traversing sharp left into the last few metres of the crack on Lorraine Variation/Direct. There’s a feasible independent line between GBH and the Direct from where GBH trends left but it would be very bold. Tim battles with the short and sharp P3. In the end he went for the full on jams and ringlocks assault on the crack, whereas I opted for LH hugging the crack and RH on tiny flakes and slopers until I could get LH onto the good hold at the top of the crack. This felt a bit tenuous but not too hard, whereas the full on assault method seemed at least a grade harder than it’s supposed to be!
Hidden 26 Jun AltLd G/U
Hidden 22 Jun Lead dnf
Butel 30 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S good little pitch linked in from Lorraine variation.
good little pitch linked in from Lorraine variation.
EBailey 6 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 19 Sep, 2017 2nd β
geoff b 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd A good combination of pitches: P2 has spaced but very good gear on typical Mot slab padding, P3 a more physical battle up the crack with as much gear as you could wish for!
A good combination of pitches: P2 has spaced but very good gear on typical Mot slab padding, P3 a more physical battle up the crack with as much gear as you could wish for!
MikePycroft 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd dog Led p1 & 3. Struggled on crack awkward width rested on top cam. Should have pulled harder on last hold
with geoff b
Led p1 & 3. Struggled on crack awkward width rested on top cam. Should have pulled harder on last hold
with geoff b
waydan 18 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Tough, very tough
Tough, very tough
El Swiftos! 18 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with waydan
with waydan
Luke Brooks 28 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with KB83
with KB83
Hidden 28 May, 2017 2nd
JendeHoxar 28 May, 2017 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 28 May, 2017 Lead O/S
saintlade ??, 2017 - Soft, straightforward laybacking and dishes on the right arete. Plug and play gear with ok rests. E1 5b.
Soft, straightforward laybacking and dishes on the right arete. Plug and play gear with ok rests. E1 5b.
Cefin14 ??, 2016 -
Pete_Frost 28 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S Off-fingers (unless you're Ron Fawcett). Succumbs to a combination of face climbing and laybacking.
with Simon Davidson, climbingjoe
Off-fingers (unless you're Ron Fawcett). Succumbs to a combination of face climbing and laybacking.
with Simon Davidson, climbingjoe
Hidden 23 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
James Beaumont 19 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Louis
with Louis
JamesWilliams 7 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S little bit to big for fingers little bit to small for hands. short and sharp crack line
little bit to big for fingers little bit to small for hands. short and sharp crack line
adamre12 7 Sep, 2014 Lead RP Fell off the crux. Pull hard on the top hold and its all over.
Fell off the crux. Pull hard on the top hold and its all over.
Hidden 7 Sep, 2014 2nd
oliverpcain ??, 2014 AltLd O/S
sebbo 22 Jul, 2013 AltLd dog Did as an alternative last pitch on Lorraine Variation. Tough last move (but well protected) - needed a few tries!
with Grant Brown
Did as an alternative last pitch on Lorraine Variation. Tough last move (but well protected) - needed a few tries!
with Grant Brown
Hidden 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 May, 2013 Lead
Hidden 3 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
dan gibson 21 Jul, 2010 Solo O/S
Mike Goldthorp 20 May, 2010 Lead O/S Really cool top crack, layback/clamping the arete.
with Bubbles
Really cool top crack, layback/clamping the arete.
with Bubbles
Hidden ??, 2010 -
sinbad 16 Aug, 2009 2nd Desperate finish after a committing pull in to the crack. Did as a finish to Lorraine variation
with Mike Raine
Desperate finish after a committing pull in to the crack. Did as a finish to Lorraine variation
with Mike Raine
Hidden 16 Aug, 2009 Lead
MikeT ?Apr, 2007 Lead β
with MO
with MO
Ed Booth 5 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S The crack on pitch 3 is awesome, would be quite tricky if it weren't for little scoops on the arete next to it which you can use for balance. put one cam in at the start of the crack and ended up moving it up the crack with me, lol.
with Remus Knowles
The crack on pitch 3 is awesome, would be quite tricky if it weren't for little scoops on the arete next to it which you can use for balance. put one cam in at the start of the crack and ended up moving it up the crack with me, lol.
with Remus Knowles
Hidden 5 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
geoff b 27 May, 2004 AltLd
Derek Ryden 27 May, 2004 AltLd O/S
with geoff b
with geoff b
Ched ??, 1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
goi.ashmore 6 Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
with Roy Thomas
Stoney Boy 13 May, 1990 AltLd O/S Pitch 1
with Colin Hughes
Pitch 1
with Colin Hughes
Hidden 21 May, 1989 AltLd
wynaptomos ?Jun, 1988 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1987 AltLd
Hidden 20 Jun, 1982 Lead
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High E1
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Votes cast 8
High 6a
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Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set