Rockfax Description
A snaking line that possesses a couple of testing moves. Start at a rightward-leading narrow ramp, left of a brown-stained wall.
Move up the ramp and make a puzzling move up the narrow corner above. Continue more easily, passing an overhang on its right, then climb a crack through the next overhang and move right to finish up the grey wall, above some bolts. © Rockfax

M Taylor, R Walker 30/Mar/1966

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon VSes, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist, Avon VS challenge.

Hidden 05/Nov/17 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Nov/17 Lead O/S
Robertspd2 05/Nov/17 Lead
Danhan 28/Oct/17 2nd O/S

Very polished at start. Nice route though.

with Gareth
Jim blackford 23/Sep/17 Lead RP

2 years since toproping. Some variations in line possible.

AWalker96 22/Sep/17 Lead
Oscar Popels 10/Sep/17 2nd

Nice easy climbing

with Jamie AMC
JoeCoxson 08/Sep/17 2nd O/S

Oh the polish

lukegorman 08/Sep/17 Lead O/S
AshBarnes 07/Sep/17 Lead O/S
SamDicks 07/Sep/17 Lead RP
HarryPalmer 01/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with NiallN
Hidden 31/Aug/17 TR O/S
ljkenny 31/Aug/17 TR O/S

An afternoon with Mac Mackay a IFMGA mountain guide [] from Bristol. Day consisted of 3 top rope climbs, followed by 2 Sport Lead Climbs.

with Sophie, Mac Mackay
tom.wp6 20/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Ed Walker
Hidden 19/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Robrossmills 19/Aug/17 2nd O/S
jameslomax 15/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Fun little climb, generally pretty well protected on the hard bits. Clipped the bolt on the final slab, felt quite important as that slab was fairly hard for VS

with Dom
Hidden 08/Aug/17 TR O/S
badgerjockey 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Really nice if you can get your feet to stick

with Dan M
Hidden 26/Jun/17 2nd rpt
George.Palmer 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
G Weatherley 27/May/17 Lead O/S

Highly polished

with Ed Walker
danieleaston 10/May/17 2nd rpt
with Glen AMC
Angrypenguin 06/May/17 2nd rpt
with Dan Akam, Cat
joshtee25 06/May/17 Lead O/S
catty_9 06/May/17 Lead O/S

Nicer than expected. Very polished but not so the foot holds weren't usable. The top slab was quite hard though, currently covered in brown dust

with Dan Akam, Peter Crowther
AndyScheller 01/May/17 2nd dog
Paul Baxter 01/May/17 Lead rpt

Still slippery - probably my least favorite crag but the only dry place on the day...

Hidden 01/May/17 2nd
cem 01/May/17 Lead rpt
with Gavin Buttimore
Phil Murray 10/Apr/17 Lead rpt

What polish! Coped - despite slippery feet!

with Tim Tett
BStar 31/Mar/17 TR rpt
with Shunty McShunt
alienbag 25/Mar/17 2nd

Struggled, wanted to come down, Once I realised I couldn't as I was seconding and the lead was out of sight, I forced myself onwards and really enjoyed finishing it

with Don
Phil Murray 15/Mar/17 TR rpt
with Shunt
lieraza 18/Feb/17 2nd
with Colin
Donny M ??/2017 Lead
with Bob the Sendor
Hidden 17/Dec/16 TR O/S
matt davies 11/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with Ross
Hidden 11/Dec/16 2nd rpt
AndyMorrall 02/Nov/16 Lead O/S
rosso 15/Oct/16 2nd

Extremely polish start with interesting move after the second ledge.

with Nathan
nathanjmasters 15/Oct/16 Lead rpt

A wonderful climb despite the horrible polish at the start. Pulling all sorts of (unnecessary) craaaazy shapes - had a lot of fun.

Tonebear 22/Sep/16 2nd
andrew549 22/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Tony
tobydunford 08/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Sean
Hidden 24/Aug/16 2nd
aleks 16/Aug/16 2nd
with Fred Henry
Fred Henry 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/16 2nd β
Angrypenguin 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Very polished, still just about worthwhile.

KatOstrich 13/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Catherine Johns
steve_gibbs 10/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with George Cave
67hours 10/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Steve "d00D" Gibbs
DavidWilby 09/Aug/16 Lead rpt
nathanjmasters 09/Aug/16 2nd
Katsmiff 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Bottom footholds a bit like a skating rink, polished as.

with Anthony Lauderdale
alan1234 16/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden 16/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Darrell Read 14/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Adam Gayton
Hidden 07/Jul/16 Lead O/S
JonoDHawkins 05/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Not really worth saving for the lead, forgot to sew up the initial crack with gear to scare the belayer...

with Claire
Claire Noble 05/Jul/16 2nd

Pretty nice, if slippery. Didn't really like the very last bit as just a bit too short to reach the crack easily

with Jono
George.Rowland 28/Jun/16 Lead

The skeleton of a nice climb struggles to be noticed, buried as it is in heaps of polish. Generally cool, if a little awkward, moves. Gear is all there. Enjoyable in a slightly masochistic way...

with Joe
c357 08/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/16 2nd rpt
manbat 06/Jun/16 Lead O/S

My first climb in Avon Gorge, and very nice it was too.

with Laura Packford
Ashley King 02/Jun/16 Lead

Very polished at the bottom, this made moves a lot more difficult, but after the polished was pasted a good fun and interesting route, would highly recommend doing, good gear most of the way.

with adawson
adawson 02/Jun/16 2nd
Hexman 25/May/16 Lead O/S
haydng 25/May/16 Lead rpt
with Dave R
Anouk Spelt 15/May/16 2nd
d.heard 15/May/16 2nd


Gibbo 08/May/16 Lead
with James Thompson
Sverre Aarseth Tunstad 07/May/16 Lead
with Sam de Belder, Adam Buckley
Hidden 04/May/16 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
cem 28/Mar/16 Lead rpt
cem 28/Mar/16 2nd rpt
lusonavigator 28/Mar/16 Lead β
with cem
zruobing 28/Mar/16 TR
with Eric, Paul Baxter
Paul Baxter 28/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Nathan Chrismas 12/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Dave
DavidWilby 12/Mar/16 2nd
with Nathan
jcking231 11/Mar/16 2nd
CasualLime 11/Mar/16 Lead O/S
dkilner 03/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Kiran
KiranV 03/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/16 2nd O/S
Legs 16/Feb/16 Lead O/S
Laurence20 03/Feb/16 Lead rpt

Wanted to do again in the dry, far more pleasant..

with Callum Mackay, Jack
Hidden 30/Jan/16 2nd O/S
Laurence20 21/Jan/16 Lead rpt

First climb of 2016, wanted to do something better but the gorge was really wet and greasy so opted for a repeat of Floating Voter.

with Pip Fairbairn
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
steve-grigg 29/Dec/15 Lead rpt
with Chris Norris
PeteMc 28/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Dec/15 2nd O/S
munromoffat 09/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Nov/15 -
greedo 24/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Jeremy, Jason porter
Laurence20 23/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Brendan Greene
Si Carter 22/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Adam Tiley, Colin Tiley
mr random 16/Oct/15 Lead

Polished to a high sheen. The obvious foot holds were so glossy I had to climb round them. Clearly well used by topropeing groups.

with Rafael Malczyk
Rafal Malczyk 16/Oct/15 2nd
with Bernie Sosin
Jim blackford 03/Oct/15 TR O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S
tsyrett 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

First trad lead. The start is a bit polished but not that bad.

edjenkins 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Chris Bunce
Hidden 21/Jul/15 2nd
BStar 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S

The most polished route I have ever climbed... Teaches you to look for less obvious holds at least!

with Trevor Lewis, Dan Carron
Steve Bartle 15/Jul/15 2nd O/S
danieleaston 15/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Steve
matt.jj 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Quite enjoyed this route. VERY polished at the base, but look for the small nubbins that nobody uses and it's fine.

with Ben Brady
Alex Winter 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Lockie
Scottysparks 07/Jul/15 TR O/S
foobar123 ?/Jul/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/15 Lead O/S
DanHB 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Polished, but good… gets better as you get higher

Lizziemay 23/Jun/15 2nd dog

Fell at the start cause of darn smooth ass warn rock lol... Getting to know the well trodden avon gorge routes!!

with DanHB
Hidden ?/Jun/15 2nd O/S
richsmithinbristol 30/May/15 Lead rpt
ape1980 29/May/15 2nd β
with Garth
Rob Morgan 29/May/15 Lead
with Win
Hidden 29/May/15 Lead O/S
Win-yei 29/May/15 2nd
with Rob
Tom Seccombe 18/May/15 Lead O/S
with max goodman
Hugobristol 15/May/15 Lead O/S
with Riccy
riccynino 15/May/15 2nd O/S
with Hugo
anthonylewis 10/May/15 2nd O/S
with pete ross
Trisha Murphy 01/May/15 2nd
with Meg, mel
Trisha Murphy 01/May/15 2nd
with Meg, mel
Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
JGriffiths 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Gravy
thompsonjr21 14/Apr/15 2nd O/S 09/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Paul Sheridan
Melonfly ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S


with Trisha
Matt Robinson 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Phil Brown
Nathan Chrismas 21/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Not enough polish to totally spoil this. Nice climbing, no real difficulties.

with Becky
Dino Dave 24/Jan/15 Lead rpt
with Liam Jones
jammy4536 20/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Hugo Aiken
Hidden 22/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
AJ007 16/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Nov/14 2nd O/S
George Frisby 16/Nov/14 Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 15/Nov/14 2nd rpt
Stuart William ?/Nov/14 2nd β
with Martin
mattprince 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Lydia Miles
WillGraham1 26/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 18/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/14 TR O/S
Mackinclimb ?/Oct/14 Lead
Richardlake 14/Sep/14 2nd β

Lead a year ago.

will_lake 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
minty1984 01/Sep/14 Lead RP

had a practise on the top rope first to get to grips with the polish!

Jack Porteous 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
nickwhimster 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Rob
chrismadar 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Matthew Lawles
FernandoHidalgo 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Dave Thompson 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison, Mark Lee
Nick Russell 01/Jun/14 Lead rpt

As polished as I remember.

with Emily
shafiq lalloo 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
laurence_falconer 25/May/14 2nd β

Climbed in approach shoes, polish made it a bit trickier at times!

Zolly Whitaker 25/May/14 Lead O/S
BruceW 25/May/14 Lead O/S
with Becca
maresia 21/May/14 Lead rpt
with Claire Lawrence
tc7118 21/May/14 Lead O/S
joeallen28 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Highly polished bottom!

Hidden ?/May/14 2nd O/S
BALD EAGLE 29/Apr/14 2nd
with James Pomeroy
Poco Loco 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
gavin.edwards 09/Apr/14 Lead O/S
R_W_M 01/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Little bit muddy round the steep blocky section after the traverse. Worst polish is on the initial moves. Slabby wall above the bolts is quite intimidating.

with Rebs
Rebs 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Rob
Cheese Monkey 27/Mar/14 TR rpt
with Shunt
Hidden 15/Mar/14 2nd β
Hidden 10/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 10/Mar/14 2nd
Klara 05/Mar/14 2nd
jon_ridley 05/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Klara Marsikova, Jonny Forster
steve_gibbs 16/Feb/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/14 Lead β
George Frisby 16/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Easy for the grade, found the crux to be the section above the bolts.

pheotleyr 07/Feb/14 Lead rpt
with Jana
Deary65 04/Feb/14 TR O/S

Had a TR set up. Can definitely lead this route.

laurence_falconer 29/Jan/14 Lead

Found the climbing pretty straight forward. Nice moves, just try and avoid the polish!

with Ben Caley, Laura Shaw
bencaley 29/Jan/14 2nd O/S
laurashaw 29/Jan/14 2nd
with Ben Cailey, laurence falconer
BicycleBradley 19/Jan/14 Lead O/S

Polished but pleasant enough

luke glaister 15/Nov/13 2nd O/S

Did not climb this as id have liked. I put it down to seconder's head. Well in kc. A very good cool lead.

casey johns 15/Nov/13 Lead O/S

There was polish on this climb but don't let it put you of it! Well worth the visit. Really enjoyed this vs

Hidden 02/Nov/13 Lead
bpmclimb 31/Oct/13 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 31/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/13 2nd O/S
laurence_falconer 25/Sep/13 Lead
laurashaw 25/Sep/13 2nd
will_lake 18/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Richardlake 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Tom Harper 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

extreamly polished start but very enjoyable climbing

Bobby Pearson 01/Jul/13 TR rpt

Sunny day, started floating voter but moved across nearer the top to idleburger buttress. Sunny day, Toby in pram asleep at the bottom of the route.

with Sarah Pearson
Cheese Monkey 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S


with Iggy, Mike
Hidden 01/Jul/13 2nd
squicky 01/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Ben, Mike
gobbledigook 30/Jun/13 TR O/S
David Maddison 23/Jun/13 Lead
Webster 17/Jun/13 2nd

horrible, the epitome of why I hate limestone!

DaveFidler 17/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Maurice
Dr Toph 10/Jun/13 Solo O/S

Polished like your granny's best sideboard!

Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd O/S
jas128 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd rpt
lukeh 27/May/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Derrett
Griff1990 20/May/13 Lead O/S
Lil_Pete 02/May/13 Lead O/S

Fun little climb, burnt straight out through the mudstained skank above the bolts, damn, dirty abseilers ;-)

Hidden 30/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/Apr/13 2nd O/S
tobydunford 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Laura Parker 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb after work with my new husband (papa bear!) Romance!!!

cem 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S


Kirill 01/Apr/13 2nd O/S
riff156 02/Mar/13 Lead rpt
with Hannahc
jezb1 15/Feb/13 Lead

Polished and a bit pish

steve_gibbs 21/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Will Homoky 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S

I enjoyed this - despite the polish.

with Tom Whitton
Will Gordon 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Polished at the crux but otherwise good.

gimmer ??/2013 -
Marcin78 ??/2013 Lead
with Basia
jacksonm1 23/Dec/12 2nd

Very wet

Kemics 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

Nice couple moves after the bolts.

becoming-stranger 14/Nov/12 Lead O/S
jon_ridley 14/Nov/12 2nd O/S
Neil Morbey 09/Nov/12 TR
Westcorkman 25/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Bob Dawson
Hidden 16/Oct/12 Lead
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
colin milton 30/Sep/12 Lead
with vani
Hidden 18/Sep/12 Lead O/S
BazJScott 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Anthony Dixon 13/Aug/12 Lead
rachelvlc 10/Aug/12 TR
beetleb00 09/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Better than expected but more soily as well.

Dan0Me 23/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with James S
James Smith 23/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with dan
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/12 2nd β
spragglerocks 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/12 Lead
riff156 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
climbingchippie 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Ragingpossum 31/May/12 Lead O/S

Lower moves are ruined by severe amounts of polish. Which results in a route that is not worth repeating.

Hidden 24/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/12 Lead
pheotleyr 16/May/12 Lead O/S

very nice with lots of protection

with Jana
Macca_7 13/May/12 Solo O/S

Good to do this in ascent after coming down it after doing the route to the right. Really polished to start better above nice route

daverichris 22/Apr/12 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S
with chris Lyness
stafford101 28/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Well protected crux, finished direct up the wall beyond the bolts with some very soily holds.

steve-grigg 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/12 2nd O/S
martin clarke 19/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden 19/Feb/12 2nd
ollie_e 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Sad to say probably the worst route I have ever done in recent memory. Polished, crap moves and I was FREEZING. So painful when the blood started to creep back into my hands.

with Chris
Chris Sansum 19/Feb/12 TR rpt

Ran up after failing to get up 5b wall, which was polished to sh*t! Had no idea what route this was at the time.

with James Miller
ambrooker 12/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Tom
chiverstom 12/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Alice
Hidden 11/Feb/12 Lead O/S
jon_ridley 11/Feb/12 2nd O/S
climbingchica 07/Feb/12 TR

really nice route, not too challenging but some tough moves

Marti999 01/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Nick
stoneback 01/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Marti
l.faulkner ?/Feb/12 2nd
Dean177 ?/Feb/12 Lead O/S
riff156 12/Jan/12 2nd
with Mike (Dixie Flatline), Bob Hotchkis
Hidden 06/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Dean177 ?/Jan/12 Lead
abtibbs ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Jack Verber
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
j miller ??/2012 Lead
carlgodfrey 30/Dec/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Dec/11 TR O/S
rg1976 28/Dec/11 2nd O/S
with squicky
squicky 28/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with rg1976
Joris.Roulleau 04/Dec/11 Lead O/S
manwithacam 04/Dec/11 2nd

last climb of day, not bad

with Joris
TimKnight 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Balancey start but eases off

with Stephen Heylings
Hidden 18/Nov/11 Lead O/S
tim.fairhall 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Matt
HarryB 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Jonny
Hidden 01/Oct/11 TR
Jonny Raines 01/Oct/11 2nd
ron244 29/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with Peter Bird
Nick Russell 27/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Very polished and sandy at the top. The climbing is fun but you can find equally fine climbing on much better rock elsewhere in the gorge

Hidden 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
nicksdavies17 11/Sep/11 2nd
Bobby Pearson 11/Sep/11 Lead
with Matt Forbes, Nick Davies
DerwentDiluted 21/Aug/11 Lead
Stanners 12/Aug/11 Solo rpt

basically unintentional "roped-solo-second" as when I got to the top I saw my genius brother's idea of a figure of eight on the bite, that should a fall have occurred we'd both have been dead....Muppet!

with Martin Stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
Stanley 12/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Cragking
cwildblood 11/Jul/11 TR β
Tom Brierley Gore 16/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Karen's Second VS lead.

karenhh 16/Jun/11 Lead
jchenoweth 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Marc
dprctr 29/May/11 Lead O/S

Very polished at the bottom but enjoyable and avoidable. Good run out at top if you ignore the bolts.

with Esme
esmeixx 28/May/11 2nd RP
PaulWatson 26/May/11 Lead O/S

Again spoilt by polish but a lot more friendly that Jasper. Plently of protection, esp by Avon standards. Spent a bit of time thinking about the move left near the top, but though committing was pretty easy.

with Jeremy, Rosy
Hidden 26/May/11 2nd
BridgetteB 19/May/11 2nd

Very polished but some quite nice moves.

with P Ross
hutchay 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S
elizabetha 26/Apr/11 2nd
rapidrich 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Simon
Stanners 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S

horribly polished at start, otherwise quite good.

gingergeorge 09/Apr/11 Lead
with ben and jonno
Quarryboy 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Did this for a warm up before 5b wall- my first E3.

suffolknick 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with clams
clams ?/Apr/11 2nd
with NB
evhall 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S

polished, dusty, noisy - otherwise nice route

with JamesG
abbotsmike 13/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Neil D 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/11 2nd β
Betha. 13/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Neil D
Clay C 09/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Seb
bpmclimb 01/Feb/11 2nd rpt
with Helen S
Hidden 01/Feb/11 Lead rpt
Pete Rigby ??/2011 Lead O/S
31770 ??/2011 -
Danny Bags ??/2011 -
Topper Harley 23/Nov/10 2nd
TDembrey 10/Nov/10 Lead rpt
with James
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
rorschach 02/Nov/10 Lead β

A cracking climb. Nice to get past tricky crux early on - and never been happier to slip in a 'friend' near the end! Lovely - and first VS lead.

with Alistair Hood
Richard James Edmunds 24/Oct/10 TR O/S
with Chris Jex, Marcus Wood
Sam1991 17/Oct/10 2nd

Scarily polished on the lower section, and that comes from someone who is used to shiny peak limestone...

with Dave USMC
stafford101 17/Oct/10 TR
mattshort 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Kingsjester 09/Aug/10 2nd β

A bit polished on the first half of the route, then not helped by it deciding to rain as i climbed, but overall an enjoyable route.

simeclimb68 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ?/Aug/10 Sent
TDembrey 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Jana
AdamP 20/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Martin
crossdressingrodney 19/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Fine, despite the polish of the top-ropers and dirt of the abseilers. Well-protected.

with Julian
SharonC1604 30/Jun/10 TR O/S

Who's been at this climb with the Mr Sheen. However there is a way to do the crux using the small footholds on the left wall rather than the bigger polished holds

martinp 20/Jun/10 2nd
with Adam
cjohn62 20/Jun/10 2nd
with gareth
rbyrne84 19/Jun/10 Lead

Mega polished start, tricky crux

bsavage 11/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Richard Craddock
Dan0Me 19/May/10 Lead
matt_claydon 27/Mar/10 TR O/S

To get rope down!

R_W_M 20/Feb/10 2nd
with Eleri
Hidden 20/Feb/10 Lead O/S
TR909 ??/2010 Lead
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
catemuir 31/Oct/09 2nd
with Felix
Hidden 25/Oct/09 TR
nick hawkins 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Pete lead upto the belay bolts. I finished up the slab

pembrokeshirecaver 04/Oct/09 TR O/S
rapidrich 23/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/09 2nd
ron244 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Typical slimestone but fun

Sandy Holford 28/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Pete Tecks
Hidden 09/Jul/09 2nd O/S
richardadventurecafe 09/Jul/09 Lead
with Neil Sperrings
paola 07/Jun/09 2nd
with Chris Sansum
Chris Sansum 07/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Paola
georgeevans88 21/Apr/09 TR O/S
with Jack D
keithpeck 22/Mar/09 Lead O/S

It's all very shiny.

Hidden 19/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Ewan Richards 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Straightforward-polish made me a little cautious...

with Owen
Monk 28/Feb/09 Lead
with PerrinT
PerrinT 28/Feb/09 2nd
with Monkey
Kenemo ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Bobby Pearson 28/Sep/08 2nd
nicksdavies17 28/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/08 2nd O/S
fishinwater ?/Jul/08 2nd
with Bald eagle
Hidden 30/Jun/08 TR RP
AngusB 24/Jun/08 2nd rpt

First time out in the gorge, polished but fun, last pitch a little hairy cos it was dark when we finished

with RoryG
AngusB 24/Jun/08 2nd O/S

Fun but polished (like the rest of the Gorge), it was dark by the time we finished, (a little hairy).

with RoryG
FayeG 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S

polished as they come!

with Netty (toproped it afterwards)
CarolineH 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Dave
Hidden ?/Jun/08 TR
Chris Sansum 05/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Bernard (aka crimponite123)
martinazando ?/Apr/08 TR
with Paul Lydin
Hidden 27/Feb/08 Lead O/S
scorpia97 27/Feb/08 2nd
with Caspian
RagingPuffin 17/Feb/08 Solo O/S
Al Franks 17/Feb/08 Solo O/S
bsavage 13/Feb/08 2nd O/S

Very polished climb

rh5980 13/Feb/08 Lead

Slipped of the start just a little bit my god its shiny

with Marcus Slee
Hidden 27/Jan/08 Lead rpt
scorpia97 ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Ian Parnell 28/Nov/07 Solo β
No-chalk Nailer 20/Oct/07 2nd

Very, very polished....yuck. Hard crux at bottom because of polish

Humpty Dangler 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Nice but with a horrible initial problem. An early move is required to gain a small ledge at around chest height; mantelling is difficult because of the encroaching slab on the left. The obvious options would be a layback against the undercut flake on the left, or a simple series of steps up on footholds, or a toe jam in the corner. Unfortunately none of these were possible because of the horrendous polish that completely blights the position; all rock below waist height might as well be coated with black ice. Eventually after considering every possible option I was forced at full stretch to put both index fingers on a small hold, and then jump for the ledge, a move that felt a lot more than the 4c assigned in the guide. Fortunately the rest of the route was ok, (probably because so few people get past that first step). In fact the middle and upper parts were a real pleasure, plenty of gear placements, varied moves up and over shattered limestone to a final smooth-looking slab that yielded more than ample holds when looked at a little more closely. I would recommend this route, though with reservations because of that early polish.

Hidden 10/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Dan 85 29/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Jonny
jh5638 10/May/07 Lead O/S
with Rob
mlmatt 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with chris jones
Circus 12/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Tim Wood
KarlH 21/Jan/07 Lead O/S

Finished up the left edge of the top polished wall with the bolts

with Matt Lunn
maresia 12/Nov/06 2nd rpt
with Rob Scheichl
Hidden 04/Nov/06 -
nikinko 10/Oct/06 2nd β

Lots of Beta- well chuffed nonetheless. Highest grade yet!

Hidden 08/Oct/06 TR O/S
thomasadixon 07/Sep/06 Lead O/S

very slippery start

Hidden 19/Aug/06 Lead O/S
chiverstom 07/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Duncan
maresia 02/Jun/06 Lead O/S
pattisonr ?/Jun/06 -
with Matt
rotsoscooper 29/Apr/06 2nd O/S
with Karen and Tom
Hidden 29/Apr/06 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/06 2nd β
Hidden 13/Apr/06 Lead O/S
furry 12/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Feb/06 Solo O/S
beardy mike 12/Jan/06 Solo O/S
Jethro ?/Jan/06 Lead
with Tom Bouquet
Marcus ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Bristoldave ??/2006 Lead O/S
al99 ?/Feb/05 Lead O/S
with Jeremy king
sdi ??/2005 TR O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
JamesColeman ??/2005 Lead O/S

Tougher than expected.

with Alan
mol 16/Sep/04 Lead
with Dave
Marq 21/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Daniel Dennehy
Huntlyfiddler 24/Jul/04 2nd
bpmclimb 24/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Clare
jakeclimber ?/May/04 Lead
with Rupert Rosedale
Hidden ?/Feb/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Andrew Barker ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with Dave Peachey
Richard Hall 30/Mar/03 Lead O/S

With that girl from UCL union

Paz ??/2003 Solo rpt

Or an ascent after a previous descent from 5b Wall. Topped out though.

Lev 28/Jul/02 2nd O/S
with Tom Elliot
EllieWoods 29/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Leo
Hidden ??/2002 Lead
markysums ??/2002 -
mikej 21/Jan/01 2nd
with Nick Salmon
alan moore ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Hidden ?/Mar/99 Lead
cliffy ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Susanne Svendsen
DavidR 29/May/98 2nd O/S
with John Marston and Martin
DavidR 18/May/97 Lead O/S
with John Marston
Hidden 05/Mar/97 Lead
chrisrogers ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
with Dave ?
pezzerrr ??/1996 Lead O/S
mike fenwick ?/Jul/95 TR
jim_randell 30/Apr/95 Lead rpt
with NC
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
jim_randell 15/Aug/94 Lead rpt
with AH
jim_randell 29/Jul/94 Lead rpt
with RL
jim_randell 12/Mar/94 Lead O/S

Unseconded. It started to rain heavily, just after I'd made the committing crux moves. I continued to the bolts and abseiled.

with MB
Didymus 28/Feb/94 Lead rpt
with Sue
NeilGriffiths 05/Dec/93 -
with steve
chris sm 25/May/93 Lead
with Martin Sime
Didymus 25/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Chris
ndm 10/Jul/90 Lead
mark-abz 05/Mar/88 2nd
with Andy W
mikej 05/Aug/87 Lead
with Pete Rowbottom
Hidden 01/Aug/87 2nd O/S
Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
Pete Nugent 27/Oct/85 Lead O/S

HS 4b in 1980 guide

with Paul Castleton
JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Phil Windall
Hidden ?/Dec/84 Lead O/S
Richard Weller 19/May/84 Solo
Nigel Bond 17/Apr/83 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
Nigel Bond 10/Oct/82 Lead
with Charlie Leverton
duncan ?/Sep/82 Solo O/S
leland stamper ??/1982 Solo
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ?/Jul/77 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/74 Lead
Nigel Bond 08/Nov/73 Lead
with Dave
tapley 03/Nov/73 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Steve Woollard ??/1973 Lead O/S
Bolt Phobia 25/Jun/72 Lead
Hidden ??/1966 AltLd
16 users have this on their wishlist
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 48
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 46
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Flashed (β)
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