UKC

Restricted Access

Langcliffe is regularly patrolled by YDNPA wardens and conservation volunteers. The quarry area is also designated as a Scheduled Monument under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Areas Act 1979 and English Heritage consider that any further drilling to place bolts may constitute a criminal offence unless consent is gained via them from the Secretary of State.

Skyline Buttress is in private ownership and no formal access agreement is in place. Negotiations have failed to resolve the issue with the landowner of this buttress, who has occasionally asked climbers to leave. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

2024 Update - Both Peregrines and Ravens have been observed at the crag. It's not certain yet whether they are nesting. Restrictions will remain in place for now.

 

45m. A good route on sound rock, and reasonably protected. Probably best climbed with double ropes, which also make it easier to get down. Start on a large block strewn platform a few metres left of and below the big dominant corner, and up to the right of Silver Buttons. From near the left end of the platform, follow the rising traverse line of good rock rightwards up the wall, to a peg, after which climb directly up (roc 4 and 7) to a ledge. Step left here to gain a rib but seek out a good roc 6 placement in the small corner just left. Pleasant climbing up the rib finds a good ring peg in a shot hole, then, after more pleasant climbing trending rightwards, the rib merges into the wall. Reach right and clip the pegs here, then move right with the pegs at foot level to a slight groove. Climb this with interest (peg) to reach 2 more pegs and a small ledge. There is a good friend 2 placement in a hole just above here. Step left and climb the easy rib in a superb position to reach two more pegs, which can be backed up with rocs. Above is a steep groove, crux, which leads to easy ground (sapling and roc 6) and the belay ledge. Abseil off from here.

9.10.09 Glyn Edwards, Angela Soper.

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Route of Interest
Ripper

Grade: E1 6a ***
(Slipstones)

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