Rockfax Description
A cracking variation giving a long 40m pitch. From the first belay of Lorraine, go leftwards over the bulge as for the original, and then make a delicate sequence of moves up some pockets to gain the slab and a good wire in a crack. Move up and left towards a flake that leads you all the way to the big ledge and pinnacle belay at the end of P3 of the original.
FA . D.Alcock, C.Davies 7.6.1965 © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.

Hidden 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 13/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Joe Harris
dkd 13/Aug/17 AltLd
with Mike Tutt
Jimbothe5 25/Jul/17 2nd O/S
with Dave Evens, Arthur Summers
pellsie 17/Jul/17 2nd
JackM92 17/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Led as part of the cracks. No polish and far more enjoyable that the cracks! Not bold, gear solid whenever needed and excellent friction eerywhere

anguskille 13/Jul/17 Solo O/S
fuzzysheep01 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S
davash91 18/Jun/17 2nd
cem 17/Jun/17 Lead rpt

Excellent. Didn't really remember it.

pingora 17/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Brilliant main pitch well worth doing

with Charles
Dan Mckinlay 13/Jun/17 -
Hidden 28/May/17 Lead O/S
Flavio 28/May/17 2nd O/S
LDJ 25/May/17 AltLd
ollie1 25/May/17 AltLd
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 25/May/17 AltLd O/S
with Ali
Sean Kelly ?/May/17 2nd

Repeat ascent after 50 years!

with ollie1, LDJ
Kitty27 ?/May/17 2nd O/S
with Mike
Mike W ?/May/17 Lead O/S
with Katie
mrteale 30/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. High winds added to the excitement on the balancy 5a pitch. Very good climbing by Anna.

AnnaLomas 30/Apr/17 2nd O/S

Great fun

with Ed
Ids1165 ??/2017 Lead
AngelaC 15/Aug/16 AltLd
Jonny Nick 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
cameron_hall 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

We both soloed P1, then Will led P2 (the HVS Lorraine Variation - beautiful pitch and not particularly difficult for the grade), then I strung together the last two pitches.

will_benfold 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Soloed P1, led P2. Very pleasant climbing.

with Cameron
mila.and 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Thibault Lieux
davebrox ??/2016 -
Big Lee 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Excellent route. Spaced gear on the main pitch but all of it looked good.

annak 18/Oct/15 2nd dog
Pete_Frost 28/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led the middle pitch - good fun. Joe worked the top pitch of GBH which we followed cleanly.

with Simon Davidson, Climbing Joe from Anglesey
Robb Bert 08/Aug/15 AltLd
Neilaw ?/Aug/15 AltLd
with Kev
Mr Tickle 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Dan2
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Dawn_K_B 24/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Led this pitch, was ace! Varied climbing from slab to crack, reasonably run out but not horrendous. Got it done just before the rain came in!

benkelsey 24/Jun/15 2nd O/S

easy but spaced gear

with Dawn_K_B, Shaun Humphreys
Hidden 16/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
jimmatthews 16/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 15/Jun/15 Lead

With Matt, who led opening pitch & also led top 2 pitches of The Cracks together, leaving me the best bit (long,little bit run-out, bold & balancy). Excellent route

Hidden 11/Jun/15 Lead O/S
sparkybatteryboy 11/Jun/15 Lead

very bold and bit daring in strongish winds but some great moves.

with sorcha gilbert dillon
AmyG 23/May/15 AltLd O/S

Led p2 Noemie jammed friend in crack.... Nightmare, had to use a massive rock to remove

noemie5438 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Ben, Amy Goodill
BenG32 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
Dan724 02/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

In the pissing rain. Led main (40m) pitch.

with Ian Grabowski
dashby 15/Mar/15 2nd

Lorraine was polished, thankfully the crux pitch was not and it was sustained throughout

with Dave Prime
Hidden ??/2015 -
sgl 17/Sep/14 AltLd
with will
Hidden 17/Sep/14 -
JamesWilliams 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S

good pitch. felt a little bold.

adamre12 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Nice Route

Hidden 07/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 03/Sep/14 2nd
Chriswallis2 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Joe Anglesey
Hidden 21/Jul/14 -
Josiemc ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S

really nice climb, a little bit airy but awesome

with John Orr
Dave Almond 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Nicole Almond 29/Jun/14 AltLd

Great climb, interesting moves but always positive gear.

with Dad
shed_hed 23/Jun/14 Solo O/S

Nice. Found the corner crack pitch the trickiest.

Hidden 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
WillDoyle 17/Jun/14 AltLd
Goodstuff 17/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P 1 and 3, ran the last 2 pitches of The Cracks together.

Luke Brooks 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Delyth
lithos 14/Jun/14 AltLd

paul led the rest of Lorriane. quality climbing with good gear (occasionally spacey)

with cookie
Hidden 12/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
ianstevens 12/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Lovely climbing with just the right amount of gear.

Hidden 12/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with john ferguson
mileshill540 ??/2014 Lead
Si ??/2014 -
adie84 ??/2014 -
adie84 ??/2014 -
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
partz 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S

A tad bold, but pretty much right on for the grade

with Josh Robinson
sebbo 22/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Decided on rather sketchy looking crackline above pointed flake for pitch 3 which turned out to be p3 of GBH (guidebook was in bag below). One rest at crux required - first E2 pitch and it felt like it!

with Grant Brown
cbeard 19/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great moves on dish-like holds. Nice runout on the HVS pitch, but great gear and even better friction, so can't complain!

JulesV 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Paul ablitt 14/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Gill
Laurence Cowton 25/Jun/13 AltLd

Middle pitch was bold, tricky moves well above gear.

with Howie
John Nuttall 25/Jun/13 Lead
with Natty
Hidden 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
HowieB 25/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 25/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
fizzychewitt 02/Jun/13 Lead
with Jayne
Hidden ?/Jun/13 -
Swotson ??/2013 Lead O/S
with Ian Athroll
tim20 ??/2013 -
scoth 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Neil Mc
Hidden 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
djones66 11/Aug/12 AltLd

I'm assuming that this is the same as the 'Lorraine Direct' as shown (but badly described) in the Ground-Up book. Good climbing on sound rock. The middle bit (the bit that's different to 'Lorraine' can be done in one very long pitch up to the top of C4 of The Cracks. Never too hard, but at times the space between good gear can be more than some people will be confortable with. Ecellent route, though.

with Stve mc D
helenstuart 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Mike
mark20 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

60m pitch

Jake Young 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Mark R
John Nuttall 26/May/12 AltLd
with Mark
Hidden 26/May/12 AltLd rpt
charlietorrance 24/May/12 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climbing. slab climbing brilliant rock and then crack climbing and a hard bouldery crux on the last pitch. Led first and 3rd pitch. worth linking up the pitches instead.

with Gwen
victim of mathematics 21/May/12 Lead O/S

Bold, sustained and excellent.

James Oswald 21/May/12 AltLd O/S

Really good. Great bold climbing above solid gear

with Colin Angus
Hidden 02/May/12 -
jezb1 02/May/12 AltLd

Lorraine into Lorraine Direct. Lead the 5a crux pitch. Really enjoyable delicate climbing.

Hidden ?/Mar/12 -
piersg ??/2012 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
chrisallan 14/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/11 -
Hidden 30/Jul/11 AltLd
puppythedog 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Al did the Crux Pitch, I loved the Slabby bit P2. I led the 'awkward mantel-shelf' bit at the top which felt tough. Great climb.

with Al
Ann S 24/Jul/11 2nd

Brill delicate slabs and thuggy corner crack.

with Adam
Adam1973 24/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
with Ann S
BeccaSnowden 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. First route in the pass and excellent climbing with spaced gear.

with Tom
thomasadixon 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Very good climb. Surprised at how tough the top pitch was given it's part of an HS!

with Becca
Lawrie Brand 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

With the rest of Lorraine

with Joe
gw3285 10/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
david morse 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with lole
Smelly Fox 02/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Steve Addy
hedgehog77 02/May/11 AltLd
Hidden 28/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 20/Apr/11 AltLd

I led p1& 4 of Lorraine. JN did Lorraine Direct (37m, 5a, (N.Wales Rock, Ground Up 2006), which brings you to the bottom of p4. Jn did the final mantelshelf pitch of the Cracks to finish.

with John Nuttall
Hidden 18/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
BorisVBlade 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches

Neil D 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Betha. 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Neil D
monkeyboyraw 10/Apr/11 AltLd dog

Climbed with Ruth. Started for Cracks (intended route) then onto this having linked pitches 1 & 2. Fell on the crux having climbed too far above the crack. Climbed clean on 2nd attempt to belay beneath Trauma. Ruth led last pitch. Great route gutted at the fall (first lead fall)!

sam820 10/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Did the hard variation, bit harder and bolder.(seconded mantle move one handed on final pitch)

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Sankey 03/Sep/10 AltLd
with Luke
crag_monster ?/Sep/10 AltLd
with John Vincent
smallerrich 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Stayed too far right, so not in the cracks, in the groove instead. Awesome climbing, more like E1 if you're not in then cracks.

with Will Nicholls
dan gibson 21/Jul/10 Solo O/S
RHarding ?/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Matt Reynolds
Hidden 24/May/10 AltLd O/S
soph ?/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Carl Reilly
Hidden ??/2010 -
mcgrathr ??/2010 -
robin heath ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Tom Wild
Alex Mason 18/Sep/09 Solo O/S

First day at uni.

Hidden 15/Sep/09 AltLd
Bill Lawrence 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S

awesome climb, fairly bold climb, definitely one of the best hvs leads that ive done

with andy gravestock
snakebite 18/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Stu led first pitch then took the variation 5a until running out of gear just below the crack on the arete! I followed up to here then led to top. Jamming cracks were superb and mantle was amazing, one of the more varied and intersting routes i've been on, reccommend

with Stuart Masterman
sinbad 16/Aug/09 2nd
with Mike Raine
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead
Helen23 06/Aug/09 2nd

First pitch gained via 'The Cracks' HS Variation was pitch 2 - great climb, really pockety interesting holds! So much within one pitch!

with Plas y Brenin (Dave Evans)
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
cy 16/Jun/09 2nd
with Al
Al Franks 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Claire
RagingPuffin 16/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Claire
Kirill 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Seconded the main pitch. Very good climbing.

cem 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
matjaques ?/Jun/09 AltLd
with Moony
Adam1973 31/May/09 AltLd O/S

Led variation. Superb *** pitch.

with Alex
climbingrev 18/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Lovely climb. Did as part of PYB crack climbing course. Two crack pitches (I ledthe 1st, 2nd 4th pitches - Alison the 3rd, and 5th (mantleshelf) pitches). Leading the second crack pitch was brilliant. perfect gear, scary crack with nothing but jams for hands (a bit of a bridge for feet though. Mantleshelf finish a bit interesting!

with Alison ?
Hidden ?/Apr/09 AltLd
Greg Pittam 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Kate Keltie
ClareR 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch (HS). It was really quite easy but didn't have much gear. I was pleased with my belay station - the first one where I really had to think and back up two dodgy slings with nuts - or vise versa! I dropped Greg's nuts but fortunately none were lost and a good lesson was learnt. Kate then led a very technical HVS pitch, which was hard but satisfying. Had some beta from Greg about a rock-over. Them Greg led the last two pitches (HS). There was a horrible crack to start - not nice at all and a bit scary. The last bit was a very awkward boulder problem! We all got very cold and looked longingly at the other side of the valley where other climbers (including Matty!) were backing in the sun - "too hot", apparently.

with Greg and Kate
Mattyk 28/Aug/08 AltLd

Felt farly damp and greasy due to rain. Led the direct pitch (2) and the mantle topout. Really nice boldish climbing. one move from the belay on easy ground i had a thought.. i should place some gear as otherwise i could have a big fall. stopped concentrating and my foot popped. grabbed cam. :( annoying as the bt i was on was like 4a climbing.

with Dom and Jude
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hjort 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Sgt. Vest 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
irish paul 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Joyce
Sarah Black 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Carly 03/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Richard
Hidden 03/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/08 Lead
Hidden ?/Apr/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/08 2nd
tumbling wizard ??/2008 -
barni ??/2008 AltLd
tumbling wizard ??/2008 -
ritchierich 13/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Bob Dickson
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Jun/06 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Wayne S 20/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Hidden 21/Jul/02 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
rurp ??/1995 Lead
Scott McRae 28/May/94 AltLd O/S

Good alternate start on right-hand of the Cracks. Still got stuck behind a queue on second pitch! Lead this and mantelshelf pitch

with Steve Jones
rob.grafton ??/1993 -
with tony howard, Matthew Bransby, chris pugh
WB ??/1992 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/90 2nd
Martin Bennett 12/Jul/87 -
with MT
Neil McA 12/Aug/86 Solo O/S
Melok ??/1985 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/84 Lead
with Andy Heald
Hidden 06/Sep/81 AltLd
mikej 19/Aug/80 Lead
with Tony Waite
GeoffG 07/May/77 AltLd
Tom V ??/1973 -
mikej 07/Sep/68 AltLd
with Wil Hurford
Sean Kelly ?/Jun/68 -

Got lost so felt this was a direct start

with Dick Curtis
uphillnow ??/1966 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 44
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set