Rockfax Description
An excellent thin slab climb with a desperate steep finish.
1) 4b, 30m. As for Super Direct.
2) 5c, 15m. Follow Diagonal to a good nut slot then pull up and slightly right to gain the Diagonal belay.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb cracks and a flake to a ledge and a belay on ledges on the right.
4) 6a, 18m. Climb the steep arete above (small wires) and enter the V-groove from either side. This leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Greg Cunningham 24/Jul Lead O/S

Technically a dnf as did not complete the last pitch as it was dirty and too hard/bold. We finished up top pitch of super-direct and I think this is a fantastic way to do the route along with running pitches 2 and 3 together in one long and bold E3 5c pitch (assuming small aliens or similar- without modern small cams it would be E4+). I tried the top pitch but pegs gone and best I could do was a goodish rock 2/3 and a good skyhook below feet level when doing the crux and not a great fall-line. Reckon top pitch would be E4. Highly recommended with SD finish.

with neil mcadie
Neil McA 24/Jul 2nd O/S

Run P2 and 3 together - excellent pitch. P4 is hard, a little dirty and with thin gear - Greg fell off onto a skyhook runner when the RP's blew!

with Greg Cunningham
geoff b 20/Jun AltLd

Fell off P4 as I rocked-over into the groove and lived to tell the tale; the micro-wires held, no bad landing etc. (mind you the holds are very sharp & my finger end is still numb). Did it next go; Mike did it from the right-hand-side bizarrely. There is stacks of good gear before the crux too.

Hidden 20/Jun AltLd
JendeHoxar 28/May AltLd
FlavioL1989 28/May AltLd O/S

In about an hour I think. Solo and run up the easy pitches. Bish. Whack in two small bits of gear. Bash. Quickly pull some cool hard moves to the top. Bosh.

with Jenny
jonleighton 06/May/16 AltLd O/S

Did it in 3 pitches. Dan lead the top crux (hero), and I got the fun slabby bit in the middle.

Nifec14 ??/2016 -
Ewan Russell 10/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

2nd and 3rd

with Brad
breed 10/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Steve Long ??/2014 -
Michael Allday 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Didnt do last pitch as thought we were on superdirect so will be hading back to do it

JulesV 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Hard move at the top with no gear that would stop you from hitting the ledge below. The peg is but a memory.

with Shauna Cunningham
dswansonlow 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

First and last pitches. I found leading the crux on the last pitch pretty darn worrying (a fall would have meant slamming into the ledges below)and the move was a bit of a puzzle. Got it in the end, which felt awesome! There is no peg anymore.

shed_hed 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Cool climbing, middle pitches felt very similar to slate climbing and then the top pitch was tricky to work out. I opted for pulling hard rather than hanging around to try and work it out properly! Took the middle took pitches in one.

geoff b 08/Jul/13 AltLd

Brilliant climbing at the limit of Mot friction, but we didn't do P4 as the light disappeared (that's our excuse anyway).

Derek Ryden 08/Jul/13 AltLd dnf

Geoff lead the 5c pitch. I was horrified to realise I lead this sans chalk and sticky rubber with a 20' runout in 1976 and very nearly came off. Failed on top pitch although it was windy and going dark.

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
richpickford ??/2013 -
Luke Brooks 27/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Liam
Mike Goldthorp 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Did the top pitch, was awwwwwesome cool!

with Jono Hughes
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Ed Booth 17/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Mint climbing, on-siting the last pitch was fab cause only had RP's to protect which never inspire a whole lot of confidence!

with will sim
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Ched ??/1997 AltLd

Lead 1st and 3rd.

with Grant Farqhuar
rob.grafton 13/Aug/95 AltLd dnf
with Bruce
Hidden 24/Jun/95 AltLd
Hidden 24/Jun/95 AltLd dnf
Seymore Butt ??/1995 -
with Dave Barton
Hidden 01/Jun/94 AltLd
crossleysm ??/1994 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/93 AltLd
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/92 AltLd O/S
with Paul Kallmes
mark-abz 30/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Andy W
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/90 AltLd O/S

I led the main felt really really necky!! Pegs rusted to stubs and eyeless/untie-off-able. RP's only from memory ...straight on to belay seemingly a long way below.

Eduardo Martinez 22/Aug/88 Lead O/S
wynaptomos ?/Jun/88 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1988 -
Hidden 24/May/87 2nd
Hidden 24/Apr/87 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1987 Lead
ukb & bmc shark ?/Aug/86 AltLd O/S
with Duncan & Pete
Melok ?/Jul/85 Solo

Crazy groove to finish

daviesxxx ??/1985 -
sadams 24/Aug/84 Lead
with Chris Thwaites
Robmwatt ??/1984 -
Gezzer ??/1983 AltLd O/S
Ivan Machin 22/Aug/82 -
with Jon Mellor
Hidden 06/Jun/82 Lead
jon 08/May/82 Lead
with charlie, Elaine
steveboote ??/1982 Lead

Climbed with Nick, fellow student. Remember being inspired to lead it by Buzz Jones telling me there was a hidden 'keyhole' wire at knee height as you stepped across slab, might have been a rock 1, could even have been a Chouinard 1!

redjerry ?/May/81 Lead O/S
with Roy Williamson
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Mick Tolley
Mark Kemball 06/Jul/80 AltLd
with John Jefferies
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Steve Bell ??/1979 -
Mike Owen 28/Aug/78 Lead O/S
with Elaine Watson
Hidden 26/Aug/78 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1978 2nd β
with David Greenald, Dave Cowans
petemeads ??/1977 AltLd

Seemed straightforward, pleased to find it E3!

Derek Ryden ?/Sep/76 AltLd O/S

A peg for aid was standard on the last pitch

with Tom Barbour
Steve Lewis 25/Jul/76 AltLd O/S
with Phil Thomas, sharpie
Sean Kelly ?/Jul/76 2nd

1 point of aid as was traditional then. Quite wet after heavy rain all day.

with Bob Millward
Nigel Bond 27/Jul/75 AltLd
with Dave Humphries
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 14
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set