Rockfax Description
A good route with a fierce pull on pitch two, and a tricky groove on the last. Start below and just left of the large scoop with a corner-crack at its back.
1) 4c, 20m. From a weakness in the initial roof, climb directly up to a block belay, below the left wall of the scoop/corner.
2) 5c, 16m. Ascend into the scoop for 3m and arrange some gear. Traverse out left to below a blunt arete. Thin and very bold moves up this soon lead to easier climbing and a traverse left along the break of Diagonal to its belay in a small crack.
3) 5b, 16m. Move back right along the traverse and climb the first thin crack, trending right at the top to a belay ledge.
4) 5c, 18m. The middle of three grooves provides a problematic finale to this route. © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
geoff b 27 Jul Lead I don't believe it: we had to abandon it at the same point I did 5 years ago, due to rain again! Both P1 & P2 were bolder than I remembered.
with The Forrest
I don't believe it: we had to abandon it at the same point I did 5 years ago, due to rain again! Both P1 & P2 were bolder than I remembered.
with The Forrest
Misha 26 Jun AltLd O/S Another decent route which needs more traffic (did GBH earlier in the day). Tim did the unremarkable P1. I took the bold P2. Good gear up and right from the belay, then a traverse above the belay into the wilderness round the corner. Feels pretty committing out of sight of the belayer, no gear and at first sight no holds. Would be an exciting fall, particularly for the belayer who may will get wiped out on the pendulum. Hung around for a while and a sufficient number of sufficiently large holds materialised. Had to pull a bit but nothing hard, mostly on the feet. There’s fiddly gear once you join Diagonal. The belay on Diagonal is not great - tiny ledge which I ended up sitting on as wanted to add a low wire into the mix. Tim did P3, which is pretty goey, with plenty of techy slab work on so-so gear. Not to be underestimated! The icing on the heavenly cake was P4, which I got to enjoy. Dirty, vegetated and apparently gearless, to the extent that I wondered whether to sack it off but then I’d never get into heaven. Proceeded to grind it down by way of some interesting wire placements (as well as some ok ones), much chalking and some cleaning en route (there is now only one clump of veg left - we didn’t manage to remove it en route). Take lots of small and micro wires. It’s not that hard at the grade but interest is maintained and it feels a bit tenuous in places. Some really good holds to help you reach heaven though. Anyone who claims to have done this route but skipped this pitch can go to hell!
Another decent route which needs more traffic (did GBH earlier in the day). Tim did the unremarkable P1. I took the bold P2. Good gear up and right from the belay, then a traverse above the belay into the wilderness round the corner. Feels pretty committing out of sight of the belayer, no gear and at first sight no holds. Would be an exciting fall, particularly for the belayer who may will get wiped out on the pendulum. Hung around for a while and a sufficient number of sufficiently large holds materialised. Had to pull a bit but nothing hard, mostly on the feet. There’s fiddly gear once you join Diagonal. The belay on Diagonal is not great - tiny ledge which I ended up sitting on as wanted to add a low wire into the mix. Tim did P3, which is pretty goey, with plenty of techy slab work on so-so gear. Not to be underestimated! The icing on the heavenly cake was P4, which I got to enjoy. Dirty, vegetated and apparently gearless, to the extent that I wondered whether to sack it off but then I’d never get into heaven. Proceeded to grind it down by way of some interesting wire placements (as well as some ok ones), much chalking and some cleaning en route (there is now only one clump of veg left - we didn’t manage to remove it en route). Take lots of small and micro wires. It’s not that hard at the grade but interest is maintained and it feels a bit tenuous in places. Some really good holds to help you reach heaven though. Anyone who claims to have done this route but skipped this pitch can go to hell!
Hidden 26 Jun AltLd O/S
wolf.leeb 18 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Joe
with Joe
cem 15 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led p1 & 3. Good lead by Paul on p2 as it was certainly very bold. P3 had its moments for me: very little gear and what I did find wasn't very reassuring. Despite appearances, p4 was in good nick (and excellent) but I guess we benefited from the prolonged hot and dry spell.
with Paul Clarkson
Led p1 & 3. Good lead by Paul on p2 as it was certainly very bold. P3 had its moments for me: very little gear and what I did find wasn't very reassuring. Despite appearances, p4 was in good nick (and excellent) but I guess we benefited from the prolonged hot and dry spell.
with Paul Clarkson
Sophie Nunn 7 May, 2018 AltLd O/S P2&3. Finished up last pitch of Diagonal as the vegetation and Lichen on P4 was not that tempting!
P2&3. Finished up last pitch of Diagonal as the vegetation and Lichen on P4 was not that tempting!
slowmotion 7 May, 2018 AltLd P1. Rested coming round the arête on p2.
P1. Rested coming round the arête on p2.
J_Spooner 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Started raining so finished up the top 2 pitches of Diagonal. Nice delicate crux no fierce pull and not much smearing.
Started raining so finished up the top 2 pitches of Diagonal. Nice delicate crux no fierce pull and not much smearing.
mike lawrence? 8 Jul, 2017 2nd One of the best routes in the pass, all 3 5c pitches are a lotta fun.
One of the best routes in the pass, all 3 5c pitches are a lotta fun.
griffithpatrick 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd dnf i did p1. jacob didn't feel like p2. abseiled off the block :/
i did p1. jacob didn't feel like p2. abseiled off the block :/
jacob shieldhouse hadley 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd
waynekinrade ?May, 2016 AltLd O/S
Cefin14 ??, 2016 -
Hidden 17 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf
breed 10 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 10 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S 1st and 3rd
with Brad
1st and 3rd
with Brad
Hidden 15 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Sardien 22 Jul, 2014 2nd β Very bold for the leader to move out onto the nose. We did a mix of routes, with P3 of diagonal and P4 a mix between Western Rib and Sunset Edge
with Andy Scott
Very bold for the leader to move out onto the nose. We did a mix of routes, with P3 of diagonal and P4 a mix between Western Rib and Sunset Edge
with Andy Scott
tim newton 12 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Good route. By the way the top pitch is absolutely climbable. Its green from below, but the holds are clean enough and its possibly the best pitch and a nice change from the padding below. Good wires too (small and micro). It had only been dry for a day and it had a couple of damp holds in the crack which made no difference so no need for a long dry spell to do it.
with mike grant
Good route. By the way the top pitch is absolutely climbable. Its green from below, but the holds are clean enough and its possibly the best pitch and a nice change from the padding below. Good wires too (small and micro). It had only been dry for a day and it had a couple of damp holds in the crack which made no difference so no need for a long dry spell to do it.
with mike grant
geoff b 6 Jun, 2014 Lead Had to rap off belay at end of P2 as we got caught in the rain.
Had to rap off belay at end of P2 as we got caught in the rain.
Hidden ??, 2014 -
AndrewJamesCherry 22 Sep, 2013 2nd
dswansonlow 22 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S I made several regrettable decisions on this. The first was to lead the first 3 pitches in one. It was great fun but there was substantial drag, I wouldn't recommend it... The next was to put no gear on the traverses to reduce how much drag there'd be. Lastly by making the pitch so long and draggy I couldn't hear or feel that I wasn't taking in enough rope for Andrew while he was seconding. All this meant that he took a loooooong fall and swing. Doh. Last pitch was green so did superdirect to the top.
with Andrew Cherry
I made several regrettable decisions on this. The first was to lead the first 3 pitches in one. It was great fun but there was substantial drag, I wouldn't recommend it... The next was to put no gear on the traverses to reduce how much drag there'd be. Lastly by making the pitch so long and draggy I couldn't hear or feel that I wasn't taking in enough rope for Andrew while he was seconding. All this meant that he took a loooooong fall and swing. Doh. Last pitch was green so did superdirect to the top.
with Andrew Cherry
Hidden 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
david morse 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led p1, p3 and finished up the last pitch of Diagonal as p4 has gone back to nature. Also no sign of the peg in the description. Glad I didnt have to lead p2...
with chris todd
Led p1, p3 and finished up the last pitch of Diagonal as p4 has gone back to nature. Also no sign of the peg in the description. Glad I didnt have to lead p2...
with chris todd
pauldrew 3 Aug, 2013 Lead
Dave Rumney 3 Aug, 2013 2nd
wi11 10 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S P1&3 last pitch of Diagonal rather than green groove. Bold P2 and average gear on P3. Good route
P1&3 last pitch of Diagonal rather than green groove. Bold P2 and average gear on P3. Good route
Speeddemonsi 5 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S 1st and 2nd pitches linked but continued up instead of traversing to nose belay.
1st and 2nd pitches linked but continued up instead of traversing to nose belay.
Owain Llewelyn 17 Jun, 2013 AltLd
with Gareth E
with Gareth E
geoff b 10 Jun, 2013 AltLd Got to lead P2 this time as Mike retreated! Found it much easier than previously as soon as I remember the secret whilst P4 was super as I knew what to expect. Perfect Mot climbing.
Got to lead P2 this time as Mike retreated! Found it much easier than previously as soon as I remember the secret whilst P4 was super as I knew what to expect. Perfect Mot climbing.
MikePycroft 10 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with geoff b
with geoff b
AndrewJamesCherry ??, 2013 2nd
richpickford ??, 2013 -
Hidden 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S
John Nuttall 27 May, 2012 2nd
with Mark
with Mark
eddy-on-the-rocks 15 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Nice to climb my anti-style. Some questing was had on the very green top pitch.
with dan ely
Nice to climb my anti-style. Some questing was had on the very green top pitch.
with dan ely
Rubbishy ?Jun, 2010 AltLd
mr mills ??, 2010 -
with Elfyn (chang)
with Elfyn (chang)
Mike Goldthorp 2 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S Lead all 3 pitches, good fun
with Jono Hughes
Lead all 3 pitches, good fun
with Jono Hughes
Luke Brooks 24 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Dave
with Dave
Ed Booth 18 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S did all but last pitch as i got rained on half way through pitch 3; the nose and rain don't mix ;-)
with will sim
did all but last pitch as i got rained on half way through pitch 3; the nose and rain don't mix ;-)
with will sim
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
geoff b 15 May, 2004 AltLd O/S Great climbing, tho' I seem to remember backing off P2 as I was too scared. Nell cruised it of course. P4 was much better than it looked.
with Nell
Great climbing, tho' I seem to remember backing off P2 as I was too scared. Nell cruised it of course. P4 was much better than it looked.
with Nell
Hidden 18 Jun, 2000 Lead O/S
Ched ??, 1997 2nd
with Grant Farqhuar
with Grant Farqhuar
John Southworth 8 Jul, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Andy MacNae
with Andy MacNae
Hidden 19 Aug, 1995 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 30 Aug, 1991 Lead O/S
with Andy W
with Andy W
pete johnson 27 Apr, 1991 AltLd O/S
with Geoff Halliwell
with Geoff Halliwell
Neil McA 12 Jun, 1990 AltLd O/S
with Phil George
with Phil George
Hidden ??, 1990 -
JimGoodman 16 May, 1989 Lead Did pitch 3 of Zeta and Steve led final pitch of Diagonol to finish
with Steve
Did pitch 3 of Zeta and Steve led final pitch of Diagonol to finish
with Steve
wynaptomos ?May, 1988 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Apr, 1988 AltLd O/S
andy gittins ??, 1988 -
Hidden 31 Jul, 1984 Lead
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set