Rockfax Description
A good route with a fierce pull on pitch two, and a tricky groove on the last. Start below and just left of the large scoop with a corner-crack at its back.
1) 4c, 20m. From a weakness in the initial roof, climb directly up to a block belay, below the left wall of the scoop/corner.
2) 5c, 16m. Ascend into the scoop for 3m and arrange some gear. Traverse out left to below a blunt arete. Thin and very bold moves up this soon lead to easier climbing and a traverse left along the break of Diagonal to its belay in a small crack.
3) 5b, 16m. Move back right along the traverse and climb the first thin crack, trending right at the top to a belay ledge.
4) 5c, 18m. The middle of three grooves provides a problematic finale to this route. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Alex's Wales ticklist.

J_Spooner 20/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Started raining so finished up the top 2 pitches of Diagonal. Nice delicate crux no fierce pull and not much smearing.

mike lawrence? 08/Jul/17 2nd

One of the best routes in the pass, all 3 5c pitches are a lotta fun.

with FatRob
griffithpatrick 08/Apr/17 AltLd dnf

i did p1. jacob didn't feel like p2. abseiled off the block :/

waynekinrade ?/May/16 AltLd O/S
Nifec14 ??/2016 -
Hidden 17/Aug/15 Lead dnf
breed 10/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 10/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

1st and 3rd

with Brad
Hidden 15/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/May/15 AltLd O/S
Sardien 22/Jul/14 2nd β

Very bold for the leader to move out onto the nose. We did a mix of routes, with P3 of diagonal and P4 a mix between Western Rib and Sunset Edge

with Andy Scott
tim newton 12/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Good route. By the way the top pitch is absolutely climbable. Its green from below, but the holds are clean enough and its possibly the best pitch and a nice change from the padding below. Good wires too (small and micro). It had only been dry for a day and it had a couple of damp holds in the crack which made no difference so no need for a long dry spell to do it.

with mike grant
Hidden ??/2014 -
AndrewJamesCherry 22/Sep/13 2nd
dswansonlow 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

I made several regrettable decisions on this. The first was to lead the first 3 pitches in one. It was great fun but there was substantial drag, I wouldn't recommend it... The next was to put no gear on the traverses to reduce how much drag there'd be. Lastly by making the pitch so long and draggy I couldn't hear or feel that I wasn't taking in enough rope for Andrew while he was seconding. All this meant that he took a loooooong fall and swing. Doh. Last pitch was green so did superdirect to the top.

with Andrew Cherry
Hidden 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
david morse 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led p1, p3 and finished up the last pitch of Diagonal as p4 has gone back to nature. Also no sign of the peg in the description. Glad I didnt have to lead p2...

with chris todd
pauldrew 03/Aug/13 Lead
Dave Rumney 03/Aug/13 2nd
wi11 10/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

P1&3 last pitch of Diagonal rather than green groove. Bold P2 and average gear on P3. Good route

with Ben
Speeddemonsi 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

1st and 2nd pitches linked but continued up instead of traversing to nose belay.

Owain Llewelyn 17/Jun/13 AltLd
with Gareth E
AndrewJamesCherry ??/2013 2nd
richpickford ??/2013 -
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
John Nuttall 27/May/12 2nd
with Mark
eddy-on-the-rocks 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nice to climb my anti-style. Some questing was had on the very green top pitch.

Rubbishy ?/Jun/10 AltLd
mr mills ??/2010 -
with Elfyn (chang)
Mike Goldthorp 02/Jul/09 Lead O/S

Lead all 3 pitches, good fun

with Jono Hughes
Luke Brooks 24/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Dave
Ed Booth 18/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

did all but last pitch as i got rained on half way through pitch 3; the nose and rain don't mix ;-)

with will sim
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden 18/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Ched ??/1997 2nd
with Grant Farqhuar
John Southworth 08/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
with Andy MacNae
Hidden 19/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 30/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Andy W
pete johnson 27/Apr/91 AltLd O/S
with Geoff Halliwell
Hidden ??/1990 -
JimGoodman 16/May/89 Lead

Did pitch 3 of Zeta and Steve led final pitch of Diagonol to finish

with Steve
wynaptomos ?/May/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/88 AltLd O/S
andy gittins ??/1988 -
Hidden 31/Jul/84 Lead
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 6
High 6a
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Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set