A popular easier climb on the main wall, but not easy! Follow a series of ledges leftwards to a baffling and awkward crux getting into the last corner. Finish easily.

W Jeffrey, C Craggs 1975

Ticklists: Scottish Central Belt HVS.

Alonso 09/Sep 2nd O/S

Exposed towards the end, well protected until then.

with Idris
Hidden 09/Sep Lead O/S
icehockeyhair 23/Aug Lead rpt
with Danny
Sylvian B 23/Aug Lead O/S
with Gema
ngmo 23/Aug 2nd dnf

Didn't make the last move cuz I had taken a fall on the first move and hit the ground (it hurt!)...

with Sylvian
Hidden 12/Aug Lead O/S
maxf 20/Jul 2nd
Nicholas Wylie 12/Jul 2nd rpt
with John Miloy
Hidden 03/Jul Lead O/S
Rob N 25/Jun Lead O/S
bodovix 11/Jun Lead O/S
sas 11/Jun 2nd O/S
with Gwyd
Hidden 04/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun 2nd O/S
AmyG 25/May Lead O/S
salix 25/May 2nd rpt
with Amy
Steph2004 25/May 2nd O/S
CraigLaurie 24/May Lead O/S
rachelSquirrel 18/May Lead O/S
with Euan
Liam Watson 26/Apr Lead O/S
noskki 20/Apr 2nd
with angus
Cloverleaf 12/Apr Lead O/S
with Morna B
btiller87 11/Mar Lead O/S
with Connor
Connorh 11/Mar 2nd
fuzzysheep01 21/Feb Lead O/S

Seriously precarious crux - phew.

Violinist 21/Feb 2nd O/S
with Joe
GMohr 22/Sep/16 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
gjd 28/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Brian H
maryleese 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/16 2nd rpt
RebekahD 25/May/16 2nd
with Sam
Samauchtrlonie 25/May/16 Lead O/S
with Bekah
Euan Todd 17/May/16 Lead O/S

The awkward crux is the defining feature of this route. Managed to get a left foot on the ledge and make the reach static.

salix 14/Apr/16 2nd
with Vicky, Sergio
Conor Nally 11/Apr/16 Lead
with Josh Brunning
jack morris 94 ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
malcolm.harris ??/2016 Lead dnf
Hidden 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S
David Woods 30/Aug/15 2nd rpt

The fifth time I have climbed this route this summer. Pah

with Euan Maharg
Kevin Woods 30/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Warm up

dmacmorris 30/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Looked super easy from ground but there is defiantly a 5b move there :D Good warm up.

JosefGoeth 29/Aug/15 2nd
bduffin 29/Aug/15 Lead

1st HVS lead. Had some serious shakes at the crux.

David Woods 15/Aug/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Jul/15 2nd
Ewanski ?/Jul/15 Lead
with Doug P
wookie667 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
David Woods 20/Jun/15 2nd rpt
MightyStew 12/Jun/15 Lead O/S
sebbi30 12/Jun/15 2nd
Skotch85 10/Jun/15 Lead RP
with donwito
Elsier 26/May/15 Lead O/S

Crux move felt hard and awkward

with Adrian
Hidden 20/May/15 Lead
Hidden 23/Apr/15 Lead O/S
m675bowsl 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S
JoeDickens 21/Apr/15 2nd
Rollo Rolo 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Pablo, Piotrek
james1978 25/Mar/15 2nd
David Woods 25/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Interesting psychological crux

with James Jackson
CaelanB 04/Mar/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
alice_loudon 25/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Lukas, Arran
HaddRoots 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Great route, awkward crux move and a bit of a messy finish.

Jen Crook 13/Sep/14 Lead

Hard for the grade for the short!!

with Ross Black
Hidden ?/Jul/14 2nd
calumhicks 13/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hugh Simons 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S

First HVS, literally the most scared I have ever been, since I was too big to fit on to the crux ledge comfortably. However, persevered and eventually got there. Huge buzz when I got to the top!

Valaisan 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Barnett
DavidMcK ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Weird crux

Hidden 15/May/14 2nd
seanhendo123 20/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Nice climb with good gear. . . As the guidebook said was a bit perplexed at crux, bit of up and down then committed feeling pretty off balance

with Emeric
Hidden 08/Apr/14 2nd O/S
oliverk 08/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Luci
Nicholas Wylie ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
James90 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with jev
jev 29/Sep/13 2nd rpt
with James
rallymania 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Mike J
Dav va 21/Sep/13 2nd O/S
gjd 24/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Sam Burns
JonnoP 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Zoe S
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead rpt
Liam Ingram 13/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Jamie Sparkes, Ben Feintzeig
alex toomey 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
colin8ll 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Luke, Dougie
Hidden 02/Aug/13 2nd
gurumed 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Mitch, gjd
gjd 27/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Mitch, Gurumed
codgio 09/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Actually nothing too difficult, but feels awkward and exposed at the crux and final traverse - could never have lead it, so big thumbs up to Tom for giving me the chance to climb it behind him. Would like to try without moving right at crux (but had to collect Toms gear :-) )

Tom Baird 08/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Went right at the crux, seems I should have persevered and gone left. Unfinished business. Lovely climbing in the sunshine though.

Fiona Reid 01/Jul/13 2nd

Good lead by Alison, bloody awkward to second

with Mike, Alison
abbeywall 01/Jul/13 Lead

Somewhat trapped on my left knee for a bit with a worrying lean back on the crimps to make progress. Then it was all over

with Mike, Fiona
Mike-W-99 01/Jul/13 2nd dog

Good lead from Alison followed up by a spectacularly bad second by myself.

peter.ravenscroft27 13/Jun/13 2nd


smithjmw46 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Pete Ravenscroft, Jordan Spence
Ewanski ?/Jun/13 2nd
with Cal. C
John McKenna 01/May/13 Lead O/S
salix 30/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Brilliant climb.

with Sam J
eaf4 15/Apr/13 2nd
Martin McKenna - UKC 08/Feb/13 2nd
Mossdawg 12/Jan/13 2nd O/S
james mcclung 12/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Busby ??/2013 -
Mike-W-99 19/Sep/12 2nd dog

Knees & tight rope required at crux. Very good lead from Fiona who had been told she'd be too short to lead it!

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Interesting! Took a loooong time to actually commit to the crux and was amazed to get it first go. It looks so straightforward from the bottom but is surprisingly awkward.

with Mike
jonathanfield 02/Sep/12 -
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead RP
Hidden 24/Jul/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Jun/12 2nd O/S
jev 01/Jun/12 2nd
with Andy, Reuben, HWUMC
crookachili 01/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Andy Whale, Jev
David Stevens 24/May/12 Lead O/S
with Reuben Crook, Ross Young, Andy Thompson
crookachili 24/May/12 2nd
Ross Young 24/May/12 2nd dnf
Plungeman 24/May/12 2nd O/S
with Dave S
Hidden 07/May/12 2nd
Hidden 07/May/12 Lead
Sean Bell 05/May/12 2nd rpt
with Neil Carnegie
GraMc 15/Jan/12 2nd O/S
dj_brigham05 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Very interesting crux

chrism225 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with polly, dave
karinh 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S

took ages over it but really enjoyed it

KeithAlexander ?/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with karinh
Hidden 29/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Ulgrid 03/Aug/11 2nd
with Ross
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead O/S
D_Wills 16/Jun/11 Lead β
andymoin 15/Jun/11 Lead rpt
Neil Mackenzie 14/Jun/11 2nd rpt

went right this time.... far easier but still fun, just not nearly as fun. def more like VS this way

with Andy
sergio46 31/May/11 Lead dnf

Got to the crux, fancy off balance move, and I add to downclimb as a EICA staff asks us to move our car. Gutted!

Ian Jones 31/May/11 2nd
jazzyjackson 07/May/11 Lead
with Ally
Hidden 07/May/11 2nd
Hidden 02/May/11 Lead
mhowie 26/Apr/11 2nd dnf
with Niall
Liam Ingram 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S


Macleod 19/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S
sophiecb 31/Jan/11 2nd

Climbed this dragon's back in the dark before the storm came in! One tricky, balancy move - trick is not to use the knees and trust the good ribby hold above. Would be good to come back and do it in daylight...

with Toph
Dr Toph 31/Jan/11 Lead rpt
with Sophie
Alastair R ??/2011 Lead O/S
Scottish78 ??/2011 -
R0bbie 30/Oct/10 Lead rpt
with lucy, leighn
Hidden 30/Oct/10 2nd
MonkeyDawson 30/Oct/10 2nd
with Simon Smith
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
sebrider 08/Sep/10 2nd

The mantle must be a contender for the best around Edinbrugh...class! Any of you that have gone right to avoid the mantle should really log as 'lead dog' ;)

with Alex
Brendan 20/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Alec
ShoePolice 08/Aug/10 Lead

Took a swinger off the crux (on a good big hex), started again and finished it. Are knees allowed...?

with Kate Drugan
Denpov 06/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Nice route, scary crux. :o)

CharlieMack 23/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Harry Holmes 20/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Robbie Cammack, Liyen
krasavenko 20/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Cacyn 01/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with John Jackson
gjd 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

A wild route - bold but not hard - great 'perplexing' crux.

andymoin 13/Jun/10 2nd rpt

When a way I've never seen climbed before instead of taking the crux on the left, went up right and hand traversed over. Easy for the tall I guess.

with Warren
PaulMcL 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Woo-hoo, first lead, love this outdoor thing. A lot scarier than it looks.

Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 17/May/10 Solo rpt

Ropes got stuck on the ab. Any excuse, eh? Still feels a bloody awkward move for the grade.

Hidden 07/May/10 TR
Hidden 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S
jamiefoxen 23/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Scott Garcea
rcammack 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
allyrocke 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Robbie
Andy Moles 18/Apr/10 Lead rpt

Did the crux the nice way this time, still don't think the route is very good.

with Phil
krasavenko 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S
sebrider 11/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Jamie
squidgebob 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Chris BL, jamie
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
sebrider 27/Mar/10 2nd O/S
Chris wilson 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S

Took ages to work out the devious crux - great route!

with Seb
jonnie3430 23/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Matt
Greg Boswell 07/Jan/10 Solo O/S
KatBlum 12/Oct/09 2nd
akhughes ?/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Ally Gillies 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Pete
Andy Moles 05/Jul/09 2nd

Not sure what earns this two stars; one awkward move and the rest is nothing special.

with Calum
jamestheyip 05/Jul/09 Lead rpt
with Simon Freeman
el diablo ?/Jul/09 Lead
with Hay
Hidden 06/Jun/09 2nd
tomdude 07/May/09 2nd
with rob
robertmichaellovell 07/May/09 Lead
with Tom
decs 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Chad
Chad123 24/Apr/09 AltLd rpt

Still an awkward move and rest of route is pretty average, not sure why everyone seems to love it?

with Duncan
Fraser 06/Apr/09 2nd β

tricky crux!

with Kev
kevg 06/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this one. Good crux, quite tricky.

with Fraser
Hidden 05/Apr/09 2nd β
Neil Adams 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Hellish crux move!

schultz 22/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Remember the side pull on the crux

with Rob
sneaks 22/Feb/09 Lead rpt

Second time on route, First time leading it. Hence the clean no falls repeat ascent. Went for the direct route on the crux rather than the high right reach and traverse. possibly one letter grade harder this way? Still, very nice and an awesome day for it. :)

with Bruce
Hay ?/Feb/09 2nd

Lower crux really nice. Went left on the upper crux and it was very grovel-ly. Made it look horribly difficult.

with Keith
andymoin 23/Jan/09 Lead rpt
with telford
Hidden ??/2009 -
maxf 18/Nov/08 2nd
joe larner 18/Nov/08 Lead
with maxf
Hidden 20/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/08 2nd dnf
s kennedy 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with shelley barbour
tomdude 29/Jul/08 Lead O/S

crux confused for a while, quite committing too.... did it ok though.

with fede
jazzyjackson 05/Jul/08 Lead

much better than it looks, enjoyable moves up the massive flake.

with Ally
Hidden 05/Jul/08 2nd
simon_D 02/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Neil Silver
PeteH 30/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Odd sort of a climb.. Very psychological crux and finishing traverse. Awkward crux move, helped by a big reach.

Lawrie Brand 30/Jun/08 2nd O/S
R0bbie 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Alasdair Fulton 03/May/08 2nd
andyinglis 03/May/08 Lead O/S
sneaks 06/Mar/08 -
andymoin 10/Feb/08 2nd rpt
with tim, rinehart
beegsyboy 10/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Andy + Reinhart
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Dr Toph ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Calum Clarke
Hidden 30/Sep/07 2nd
Matt crawford 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Got my hands high on possessive edge then moved left to the crux, went fairly easy maybe to easy.. is this how it's meant to be done?

with Taba
andymoin 11/Sep/07 2nd rpt
Neil Mackenzie 11/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Andy
andymoin 25/Jun/07 2nd rpt
with Mark Jarvie
Sean Bell 30/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with neil
andymoin 21/Apr/06 TR RP

crux is easy wen on top rope and your gear isn't 1/2 meter below.

with Jamy McFarlane
andymoin 18/Apr/06 Lead dnf

The crux got me, will nail it next time!

with Simon Parcel
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 30/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Rebecca
Hidden 02/Jan/05 Lead RP
mav ?/Sep/04 -
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Chad123 ?/May/00 Lead O/S
with Various
Beardyman ??/2000 Lead O/S
babymoac 30/May/99 2nd
with Chris F
JiveWeasel 07/Jun/98 2nd
with Bionic Bob
Andy Clark ??/1998 Lead
with Burnsie
Hidden ??/1998 2nd O/S
dangates ??/1998 -
with Nick Tarmey/ Kirk Watson
Ian Jones ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Sean Smith
greenroom ??/1997 -
Okecroak 17/Jul/96 Lead dog

Fell off, cannot recall if i worked out the move

with G Scott
whispering nic ?/May/93 -
with Claire C
Duncan I ??/1992 Lead
Bruce Kerr 13/Oct/79 Lead
with Brian Dick
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 51
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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