Climb the slim pillar, probably making some use of the left arete, but how much?

Matt Ward, Martin Crocker 1986


ClimberDateStyle
Phippy 14/Oct TR β
YamCam 19/Aug Lead β
littleluke 19/Aug Lead O/S
RagingPuffin 17/Aug Lead dog
with Trisha
Trisha Murphy 16/Jul Lead O/S
with Jim
Didymus 02/Jul Lead RP

felt about 6c+

with Paul
PaulTclimbing 02/Jul Lead rpt
with Jon
Dean177 24/Jun Lead O/S

Lots of loose rock (and a runout) after the last bolt

with Mike
emma1987 11/Jun TR
lukey13 11/Jun Lead O/S

Used the arete to place the draw in over the roof... way too pumped/scared not to! Second attempt worked the roof and found the direct beta with help from Emma - take the roof as an undercling, work your feet up and reach for the 2 finger pocket :)

with Emma :)
simonsnake77 06/Jun TR dog

Off route to the left, swearing and grunting with no style whatsoever. Terrible.

Hidden 01/Jun Lead dog
Hidden 23/May Lead rpt
Holister 23/May Lead O/S
with Sash
BenL 29/Apr -
with ricci.andrea86, Angus Webb
Hidden 13/Apr Lead dog
ricci.andrea86 ?/Apr Lead O/S

soft?!

petecallaghan 27/Mar Lead dog

Probably made far too much use of the left arete. Still found the middle section difficult to move up. Need to trust my feet

Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead RP
M1V0 14/Jul/16 Lead dog

End of the session. Tricky sequence to work out.

Wise ??/2016 -
R2B ??/2016 Lead
with Justin
PeterDawson 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Tom Corras 26/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden 09/Sep/15 Lead RP
LucasHarazin 05/Aug/15 Lead RP
just one more 05/Aug/15 Lead RP
Hidden 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Josh Hadley 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/15 Lead RP
afrosam 28/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/15 TR RP
thomas108 ??/2015 -
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
kylieo 16/Aug/14 Lead RP
with Phil
chrisscutt 17/Jul/14 Lead RP
with Steph
Hidden 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
J1_TOV 18/May/14 Lead RP

Stayed off the arete all the way apart from using the jug out left to clip the bolt above the overlap. Could have avoided the jug though I don't think it makes it a great deal easier. Shame it's an eliminate, it could be a great line.

Stuart William 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Used the arete too much as it seemed like the natural line. Nowhere near 7a+ like that. Realised it must be a fairly eliminate sequence and did the moves direct but couldn't be bothered to try to redpoint it.

with J1 Tov
ian d f 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with Norman, Mark
jiggerypokery 31/Aug/13 Lead β
Rosea Day 31/Aug/13 Lead

hmm

Hidden 20/Aug/13 Lead β
J.A.Thomson ?/Jul/13 2nd
with Dan
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead dnf
alexjz 12/May/13 Lead RP

Also used the left arete too much to make it feel like a 7a+. Took a few goes at working a good sequence between the 2nd and third clip, then found a great one that went real smooth

brices 30/Sep/12 TR rpt
with Tomar
dannyboy83 29/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Leona
Ricky Rocks 26/Jul/12 Lead dog

Got through tricky start bit lead me into the other route, contrived line, prob best to just use the arete.

Hidden 24/Jul/12 Lead O/S
richiebongo 12/May/12 Lead RP

Retro-flash. I tried to avoid the left arete but forced into screwballed and back out, about 7a+ like that and 6c+ if one keeps to the left arete. A contrived route.

with Nick Smith
Tim M ?/May/12 Lead O/S
with Emma
climbergg ?/May/12 2nd
tom169 11/Mar/12 Lead dog

Trying to go direct through roof = falling off

Mr Winkleberry ?/Feb/12 Lead RP
with Matt Stacey
Hidden 15/Jan/12 Lead dog
Dan Jenkin 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

eliminate & contrived

Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Tom Brierley Gore 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

easier than screwballed next to it IMO, but maybe that's because it's easier to read.

Bates 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 24/Apr/11 Lead β

about 6c/+ with the arete some of the way

with caspian
Caspian Johnson 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Billg 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S

used the left arete all the way - 6c. to avoid it would be very contrived

with James Kauntze
Richard Hall 07/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Just got back from Mallorca, would have been 6c there.

with Raf, James Marshall
jominator ?/Mar/11 Lead
with realchardarmy
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Cowflinger 13/Aug/10 TR
with Suzanne
ericinbristol 30/Jul/10 Lead O/S

On sight putting clips in. Used left arete most of the way: probably 6c+ the way I did it.

jacobjacob 24/Jul/10 Lead β
Tomar 19/Jul/10 Lead O/S

I used the arete on the left quite a lot and did feel more like a 6c or so. Rafael went right and looked a lot harder, I should repeat it another time going right at the tower.

with Tom
Hidden 19/Jul/10 Lead β
brices 18/Jul/10 Lead RP

fun bouldery crux

thomasadixon 23/Jun/10 Lead RP

Defo not 7a+ the way I did it, tried it the other way (going right a bit) and it seemed no harder, couldn't see a way to go properly direct.

with Ross
Hidden 23/Jun/10 TR dog
Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead dnf
richiebongo 20/Apr/10 Lead dog
richsmithinbristol ??/2010 Lead O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 26/May/09 Lead β
with Geoff
eddieclimb ??/2009 Lead RP

1st rp

with Jason Parker, Rebecca Edwards
Kev Little ??/2009 Lead RP
Mark Stevenson 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Paz 05/Apr/08 Lead RP

Used the left arete - how everyone else does it? Should do properly later, but this makes the moves over the overlap desperate - I think it's been done.

with TS2
Hidden ??/2008 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 29/Jul/07 Lead RP

More like F6c+ the way I did it.

with Mark Courtiour
guy xavier percival 28/May/07 Lead RP
with mark
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
westyb3 ?/Oct/06 Lead
Paz 27/Jul/06 Lead dog

A direct eliminate has been done and sticking to the arete is a high 6 apparently. The 7b half and half version climbs logically but is escapable.

with AS, FM
eddieclimb 01/May/06 Lead RP
Dan Savory ?/Apr/06 Lead RP
John Southworth ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol ?/Mar/04 Lead RP

John's comedy comments caused me to blow this!

Hidden ??/2003 Lead RP
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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Not Set