UKC

Rockfax Description
Another great route on amazing rock although less popular than its neighbours.
1) 6m. Start as for Plexus, but belay on the first large ledge.
2) 5c, 35m. Move up the slab as for Nexus. At the roof make a dramatic move through the overlap into a groove. Follow this up and right to an airy perch on an arete. Take the groove up and move out left to reach the end of a small roof. A tricky traverse right below this leads to a good flake. Follow this up and then trend left as the angle eases to the belay at the end of the roof.
3) 5c, 35m. Head up the slab on the right as for Nexus and follow it to a collection of pegs at a steepening. Move left past these onto a ledge. Move up the slab above to the roof and traverse delicately left across this to a peg and small wire. Make committing moves up and into the narrow groove. Climb this and the arete to a good hold and the end of the difficulties. Follow a line of weakness up and left and continue on diagonally to the abseil point. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Alex's Wales ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
jsmcfarland ?/Aug/16 Lead dog

Led both pitches. Went off-route on P1 and climbed the last 8m or so of Nexus, instead of going right at the section of pale undercut rock. Had a short fall at the initial overhang because the key crimp on the left was covered in lichen. Did P2 clean, which was insanely scary and quite hard. Wish somebody would bang a new piton in! Brilliant route that needs more traffic to clean it up. I thought 3 stars. Will come back to do P1 properly

with Robert
The Grist 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 15/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Dropped my crab of medium wires. Bugger. Managed to get on without. Mark picked them up

Nick Biven ??/2013 -
phil64 ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S

lovely climbing on superb rock....worthy of more traffic.

Hidden 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/03 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1988 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Aug/84 2nd

With Adge Last

Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Mark Kemball 03/Jul/83 Lead
with "Spugs" Spurrett
redjerry ?/Aug/82 Lead O/S
with Bob Duncan
mikej 10/May/82 2nd dnf
with The Puerile Ticker
Hidden 17/Apr/81 AltLd
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Mick Tolley
Hidden 18/May/80 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1979 2nd β
with Dave Greenald
Mike Owen 14/Jun/78 Lead O/S
with Joe Healey
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