Rockfax Description
Another great route on amazing rock although less popular than its neighbours.
1) 6m. Start as for Plexus, but belay on the first large ledge.
2) 5c, 35m. Move up the slab as for Nexus. At the roof make a dramatic move through the overlap into a groove. Follow this up and right to an airy perch on an arete. Take the groove up and move out left to reach the end of a small roof. A tricky traverse right below this leads to a good flake. Follow this up and then trend left as the angle eases to the belay at the end of the roof.
3) 5c, 35m. Head up the slab on the right as for Nexus and follow it to a collection of pegs at a steepening. Move left past these onto a ledge. Move up the slab above to the roof and traverse delicately left across this to a peg and small wire. Make committing moves up and into the narrow groove. Climb this and the arete to a good hold and the end of the difficulties. Follow a line of weakness up and left and continue on diagonally to the abseil point. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Alex's Wales ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
BC 16 Jul AltLd O/S P1 is very technical and suited my style of climbing. Loved it, even though a little green... some parts a bit bold leading to the overlap. Crucial cam placement in the mini roof. George lead p2. Not as bold as expecting. Some cool climbing on this route
P1 is very technical and suited my style of climbing. Loved it, even though a little green... some parts a bit bold leading to the overlap. Crucial cam placement in the mini roof. George lead p2. Not as bold as expecting. Some cool climbing on this route
George_Surf 16 Jul AltLd O/S More great technical climbing! Ben led p1, hard pull through the roof and slightly bold moves to the overlaps, committing move left in to the groove. i did p2, there's a couple of cams, a thin peg and a good #1 wire protecting the crux groove, run-out but not the bold/dangerous. thin though, with archangel like moves on the arete. top quality (slightly green)
More great technical climbing! Ben led p1, hard pull through the roof and slightly bold moves to the overlaps, committing move left in to the groove. i did p2, there's a couple of cams, a thin peg and a good #1 wire protecting the crux groove, run-out but not the bold/dangerous. thin though, with archangel like moves on the arete. top quality (slightly green)
Dan Hale 5 Jul AltLd O/S Led pitch 1. Brilliant route, thought it was just as good as the more famous lines. Lots of technical climbing.
with Dom
Led pitch 1. Brilliant route, thought it was just as good as the more famous lines. Lots of technical climbing.
with Dom
Hidden 5 Jul AltLd O/S
Billg 20 Apr Lead O/S
with Will Calvert
with Will Calvert
Flavio 11 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S P3 only
P3 only
JendeHoxar 11 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S Pitch three only
with Flavio
Pitch three only
with Flavio
Climbingspike ??, 2018 -
jsmcfarland ?Aug, 2016 Lead dog Led both pitches. Went off-route on P1 and climbed the last 8m or so of Nexus, instead of going right at the section of pale undercut rock. Had a short fall at the initial overhang because the key crimp on the left was covered in lichen. Did P2 clean, which was insanely scary and quite hard. Wish somebody would bang a new piton in! Brilliant route that needs more traffic to clean it up. I thought 3 stars. Will come back to do P1 properly
with Robert
Led both pitches. Went off-route on P1 and climbed the last 8m or so of Nexus, instead of going right at the section of pale undercut rock. Had a short fall at the initial overhang because the key crimp on the left was covered in lichen. Did P2 clean, which was insanely scary and quite hard. Wish somebody would bang a new piton in! Brilliant route that needs more traffic to clean it up. I thought 3 stars. Will come back to do P1 properly
with Robert
The Grist 15 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Nick Biven ??, 2013 -
phil64 ?Jun, 2010 Lead O/S lovely climbing on superb rock....worthy of more traffic.
lovely climbing on superb rock....worthy of more traffic.
Hidden 31 May, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??, 1988 -
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?Aug, 1984 2nd With Adge Last
With Adge Last
Rick51 11 Jun, 1984 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
Mark Kemball 3 Jul, 1983 Lead
with "Spugs" Spurrett
with "Spugs" Spurrett
redjerry ?Aug, 1982 Lead O/S
with Bob Duncan
with Bob Duncan
mikej 10 May, 1982 2nd dnf
with The Puerile Ticker
with The Puerile Ticker
GeoffG 11 Apr, 1982 -
Hidden 17 Apr, 1981 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
Hidden 18 May, 1980 AltLd
Ian Jones ??, 1979 2nd β
with Dave Greenald
with Dave Greenald
Mike Owen 14 Jun, 1978 Lead O/S
with Joe Healey
with Joe Healey
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 7
High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set