Rockfax Description
An overlooked route with some excellent and exciting climbing. Start right of Striptease near the far right end of the ledge. Climb to the right of the deep corner and then move back left into it. Climb the corner to the roof. Awkward moves lead out left to a perched position on the lip. Pull through the overlap and climb the slabbier terrain, keeping just right of the vegetation, to the tree belay/abseil station above Striptease. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A nice route with some involved climbing. Start from the same approach to The Fang and from below the fang walk right along the ledge until you are by the main pitch of One Step in the Clouds and below a wide prominent corner capped by a large roof, tree belay. Head up and right from the belay to gain a ledge and then work back left to belwo the main off-width corner. Climb the corner/slab to the right to reach the base of a slimmer groove that leads to a peg below the roof. Arrange some more gear here as the peg is pretty poor and make the awkward traverse left to the prow. Head straight up over the now much smaller roof to gain a small ledge above. There is a line of vegetation heading up the crag, you climb a line keeping to its right. Moving left as you get higher to belay on the same tree that the second pitch of Striptease belays on. Abseil off.
Top pitch variant: difficult finish at 6a up small groove to right
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet))