Rockfax Description
III, 165m, 3 - 4 hours. Not always formed, this route is an excellent (but much tougher) alternative to the Chéré Couloir when that is busy. It is possible to belay straight underneath the route but better to use a bolt belay 20m to the left which avoids the worst of the ice fall from above.
1) 3+, 50m. Follow the thin, slabby gully (70 degrees) which finishes up a slightly steeper corner.
2) 4+, 30m. The gully continues past two short, steep sections, which are well protected and lead to a belay tucked in on the left.
3) 5, 35m. Traverse right for 3m and climb the slabby corner above to a bolted belay either in, or a couple of metres above the Chéré Couloir, depending on the thickness of the ice. The pitch is trickier than it looks and is easier with plenty of ice.
4) 5, 30m. Climb the slab above the belay to reach parallel cracks and climb the left one, before making a bold traverse back right to climb the thin ice gully above.
Either abseil down the Chéré Couloir or finish up it. © Rockfax

Godefroy Perroux early 80's

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JackM92 7 Oct, 2017 AltLd Basically no ice and the ice that was there fell off when touched with an axe. 4 pitches and no ice screw placements, verythin and tenous although actually a fantastic route! V/VI 6 higher up, initial pitches scottish IV. Suspect it would all feel very different if there was actually ice (on an ice climb)
Basically no ice and the ice that was there fell off when touched with an axe. 4 pitches and no ice screw placements, verythin and tenous although actually a fantastic route! V/VI 6 higher up, initial pitches scottish IV. Suspect it would all feel very different if there was actually ice (on an ice climb)
Rhys Deane 7 Sep, 2017 AltLd
with Jack Matcalf
with Jack Matcalf
Hidden 26 Mar, 2017 AltLd
Matt Groom 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd
harry_lewis 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Thin and hollow ice lower down, m5 pitch totally dry but still doable with decent hooks and some french free! bailed where it meets the chèré as the ice fully ran out
with Matt Groom, Matt Harmon, Ben Coope
Thin and hollow ice lower down, m5 pitch totally dry but still doable with decent hooks and some french free! bailed where it meets the chèré as the ice fully ran out
with Matt Groom, Matt Harmon, Ben Coope
bencoope 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Matt Harmon 23 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S led P1, after that ice was very thin and hollow. french free on the crux- top effort by Ben and harry getting up it on lead
with ben coope
led P1, after that ice was very thin and hollow. french free on the crux- top effort by Ben and harry getting up it on lead
with ben coope
James W 9 Apr, 2016 2nd
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
alexm198 26 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Very delicate climbing on thin ice with some good mixed steps thrown in. Gaining the left edge of the Chere on P4 was interesting as the slab was bone dry. Last pitch had not formed so we rapped down the Chere.
Very delicate climbing on thin ice with some good mixed steps thrown in. Gaining the left edge of the Chere on P4 was interesting as the slab was bone dry. Last pitch had not formed so we rapped down the Chere.
Matt Harle 26 Sep, 2014 AltLd
steve_gibbs 11 Sep, 2014 AltLd dnf Bailed off due to wafer thin ice on the third pitch.
with Hannah
Bailed off due to wafer thin ice on the third pitch.
with Hannah
Hidden 5 Sep, 2014 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Jul, 2014 AltLd dnf
Rafal Malczyk 4 Jul, 2014 2nd dnf Started wrong route and retreated as there was no ice in the higher section.
with Efe Tunc
Started wrong route and retreated as there was no ice in the higher section.
with Efe Tunc
Hidden 3 Jul, 2014 AltLd dnf
Efe Tunc 3 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf Climbed the first two pitches of the route in error thinking we were on Goulette Chere(Chere Gully). Pitch #3 did not have any ice or snow on it. Abseiled back to the glacier leaving a nut and a karabiner behind.
Climbed the first two pitches of the route in error thinking we were on Goulette Chere(Chere Gully). Pitch #3 did not have any ice or snow on it. Abseiled back to the glacier leaving a nut and a karabiner behind.
mattfarr 13 Sep, 2013 2nd
with Dave BMG, Will
with Dave BMG, Will
Just Will ?Sep, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2013 AltLd dnf
BorisVBlade 4 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Kilian Sutz
with Kilian Sutz
Hidden 5 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 AltLd dnf
Stephen18 25 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
d_meacher ?Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Only did first two pitches then abbed off due to very thin ice
with Edvin Mellergard
Only did first two pitches then abbed off due to very thin ice
with Edvin Mellergard
stevepotter 10 Sep, 2010 -
with Matt
with Matt
Dave Almond 2 Mar, 2010 AltLd Very cold start
with Mark Thomas
Very cold start
with Mark Thomas
Tom Livingstone ?Mar, 2010 -
Dave Searle ??, 2010 -
David Horwood 9 Sep, 2008 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Sep, 2008 Lead
with David Horwood
with David Horwood
Hidden ??, 1988 -
10 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
Votes cast 3
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set