Rockfax Description
III, 165m, 3 - 4 hours. Not always formed, this route is an excellent (but much tougher) alternative to the Chéré Couloir when that is busy. It is possible to belay straight underneath the route but better to use a bolt belay 20m to the left which avoids the worst of the ice fall from above.
1) 3+, 50m. Follow the thin, slabby gully (70 degrees) which finishes up a slightly steeper corner.
2) 4+, 30m. The gully continues past two short, steep sections, which are well protected and lead to a belay tucked in on the left.
3) 5, 35m. Traverse right for 3m and climb the slabby corner above to a bolted belay either in, or a couple of metres above the Chéré Couloir, depending on the thickness of the ice. The pitch is trickier than it looks and is easier with plenty of ice.
4) 5, 30m. Climb the slab above the belay to reach parallel cracks and climb the left one, before making a bold traverse back right to climb the thin ice gully above.
Either abseil down the Chéré Couloir or finish up it. © Rockfax

Godefroy Perroux early 80's

JackM92 07/Oct/17 AltLd

Basically no ice and the ice that was there fell off when touched with an axe. 4 pitches and no ice screw placements, verythin and tenous although actually a fantastic route! V/VI 6 higher up, initial pitches scottish IV. Suspect it would all feel very different if there was actually ice (on an ice climb)

Rhys Deane 07/Sep/17 AltLd
with Jack Matcalf
Hidden 26/Mar/17 AltLd
Matt Groom 23/Jun/16 AltLd
harry_lewis 23/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Thin and hollow ice lower down, m5 pitch totally dry but still doable with decent hooks and some french free! bailed where it meets the chèré as the ice fully ran out

with Matt Groom, Matt Harmon, Ben Coope
bencoope 23/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Matt Harmon 23/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

led P1, after that ice was very thin and hollow. french free on the crux- top effort by Ben and harry getting up it on lead

with ben coope
James W 09/Apr/16 2nd
with Mark Thomas
alexm198 26/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Very delicate climbing on thin ice with some good mixed steps thrown in. Gaining the left edge of the Chere on P4 was interesting as the slab was bone dry. Last pitch had not formed so we rapped down the Chere.

Matt Harle 26/Sep/14 AltLd
steve_gibbs 11/Sep/14 AltLd dnf
with Hannah
Hidden 05/Sep/14 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
Rafal Malczyk 04/Jul/14 2nd dnf

Started wrong route and retreated as there was no ice in the higher section.

with Efe Tunc
Hidden 03/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
efetunc 03/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Climbed the first five pitches of the route in error thinking we were on Goulette Chere(Chere Gully). Pitch #6 did not have any ice or snow on it. Abseiled back to the glacier leaving a nut and a karabiner behind.

with Rafal Malczyk
mattfarr 13/Sep/13 2nd
with Dave BMG, Will
Hidden ?/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/13 AltLd dnf
BorisVBlade 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Kilian Sutz
Hidden 05/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 AltLd dnf
Stephen18 25/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
d_meacher ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Only did first two pitches then abbed off due to very thin ice

with Edvin Mellergard
stevepotter 10/Sep/10 -
with Matt
Dave Almond 02/Mar/10 AltLd

Very cold start

with Mark Thomas
Tom Livingstone ?/Mar/10 -
Dave Searle ??/2010 -
David Horwood 09/Sep/08 -
Hidden ?/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden ??/1988 -
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