UKC

700m.

Rockfax Description
III, 700m. The Jager is a good stepping stone for those looking to climb longer, more serious snow and ice routes elsewhere.
Cross the bergschrund (not usually too difficult) and follow the couloir, usually on the right-hand side. The angle for the majority of the route is fairly consistent at 55 degrees, although there can sometimes be a steeper, icy section at about mid-height. The couloir bends right and steepens to 60 degrees for the final 100m and this section can be mixed in lean conditions. There is often a cornice but this is usually not too large and can be climbed through/around in most conditions. Exit onto the snow slope which leads easily to the summit of the Tacul.
Descent - Top out just to the east of the Tacul summit, continue up to this and then descend Mont Blanc du Tacul North Face. The other routes are abseiled using fixed anchors preferably on 2 x 60m ropes but there are other belays if required. © Rockfax

Pierre Barthelemy, Claude Jager 12/Jun/1964


ClimberDateStyle
Dougbart 02/Nov/14 -
with Iain
Hidden 02/Nov/14 AltLd
davidbird63 22/Jun/14 -

An epic. Started in the dark and made good progress, we thought. It's a monster though? Got constantly poured on with snow and ice crystals so moved off left and went up rocks. This turned into a blind alley and we're turned to the snow and ice. A leftward leading branch led us unwittingly into the adjacent route, the Gervassutti Couloir. Moving up this wide open gully we spied through occasional lifting in the cloud that we faced a huge ice wall at the top threatening our exit. After many pitches we finally reached this wall. After a crisis of confidence, a dropped axe and ice screw Dave Adcock took the climb by the scruff of the neck and led us left and round and up and after a hard steep ice traverse and and a steep ice step we finally reached the top as it was getting dark. Getting down was long and slow in horrible soft snow. Around 22 hours we reached the hut exhausted and went to bed with no dinner. Hats off to Dave for the leading.

ten4dave 22/Jun/14 -
Kris ?/Apr/13 Solo

Ski descent

nick arding 28/Apr/10 -
with tim warden
nick arding 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Ben Briggs 21/Apr/10 Solo O/S

Climbed and skied the route from a first bin, back in time for lunch at chambre 9.

with Brendan
Big Lee 05/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Started climbing too late in the morning. Lower section was straight forward but the remainder was problematic due to soft unstable snow. Total white out upon topping out and unable to find normal descent route off Mont Blanc du Tacal. Ended up biviing at 4100m until weather cleared the following morning.

with Ben Cheek
Hidden ?/Mar/93 Solo
Hidden ?/Jun/89 Solo
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