60m, 4 pitches. 1) 20m, 4b. Start off on lower tier underneath overhang by rock pool, climb to overhang and surmount on right to ledge just left of Fuzzy-Peg start. Climb slab and pull over boulder to belay below overhang.
2) 10m, 4c. Pull-up through overhang on rightward trending crackline, easy climbing to belay below niche in headwall.
3. 15m, 5a. Step up into off-balance niche, step left and pull up on side flake, surmount overhang on left to join slab of original route of Silmaril. (Belay at bottom of dirty coloured slab - walk off or pitch 4).
4. 15m. Make a day of it, scramble to top of Coetan for some smashing views.

J Grant and D Brown 20/Jul/2014


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