About 1km south of the Lyngvær caravan campsite is a huge cliff with two steep reddish walls. Above the lower one, and to the right of the upper one, is a grey slab forming the arete of the cliff. Aim for this by scrambling round to the left of the lower cliff, then up the right-trending ramp that runs under the base of the upper cliff. Start at the top of the ramp under the grey slab.
1) N5-, 15m. Climb the crack-line heading leftwards to a belay on a good ledge - trickier than it looks.
2) N6+, 35m. Climb the good crack by sustained jamming with moves rightwards at half height. Good well-protected climbing (big cams) but rather mossy in places.
3) N6+, 45m. Take the easiest way to the top by moving round to the left of the arete or for more of a challenge, follow the short steep crack on the right.
Descent - Go over the top of the buttress then down to the right via an unlikely looking grass ledge at the start. This leads back round to the base of the route at the top of the approach ramp. © Rockfax
FA. Gustaf Leijonhovud, Jens Åstrøm, Nils J. Vagner 3.8.2003 03/Aug/2003