Rockfax Description
The route takes the logical line of the prominent chimney on Sass Pordoi's southeast face. It suffers from seepage, meaning it is rarely in condition early in the season or after periods of rain.
Start 10m right of the large gully which splits the southeast face, in a chimney immediately right of a low roof.
1) IV, 35m. Climb the chimney direct then, when level with a thread, move left into a smaller parallel chimney. Climb this direct then on its right wall to reach a wide ledge.
2) IV, 25m. Climb two parallel cracks, first the right then the left, then trend left slightly to reach a prominent yellow crack. Ignore this and instead traverse right (pegs) to enter the chimney.
3) IV, 40m. Follow the chimney direct to a ledge on the right.
4) IV, 45m. Step back left into the chimney and continue in the same line with traditional climbing. Move back behind a chockstone then trend right to a cemented belay on a small pillar.
5) III+, 30m. Follow the chimney to a stance by a natural rock window.
6) I, 40m. Trend left following a ramp, passing a small pillar on the left to reach a stance belay a narrow chimney.
7) IV-, 30m. Climb the chimney direct then follow moves right to a stance on the plateau. Join the main tourist path left to reach the cable car and Rifugio Maria. © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Gawyllie 19 Jul, 2018 Lead
with john meechan
with john meechan
Oliver Smaje ?Sep, 2016 AltLd
with Rob Taylor
with Rob Taylor
Roberttaylor ?Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Jenny Dart 20 Sep, 2015 2nd
Robin Woodward 20 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Lots of chimney (which we knew, but didn't take on-board). Due to a lack of love/aptitude of this style of climbing it felt stiff/intimidating in places (particularly P.4), but never too difficult once you find your way and commit. Lots of pegs (although I seem to be unable to find them until they are below me), other protection is OK, but a fair bit of suspect rock. Pitch 5 & 6 are v. easy but with tons of loose rocks both on the ground and the chimney. Last pitch is straight up the middle of a chimney/open crack, cool moves once you've worked it out, don't go through to the other side. We got to the base of the route for 09:30am, but due to 2 sets of VERY SLOW locals we didn't start on the route until just past nearly midday, and topped at at 17:06, missing the last cable car down (17:00). Won't make the mistake of assuming locals will be quicker in the future!!! Easy route finding for descent, but dull and can be arduous.
Lots of chimney (which we knew, but didn't take on-board). Due to a lack of love/aptitude of this style of climbing it felt stiff/intimidating in places (particularly P.4), but never too difficult once you find your way and commit. Lots of pegs (although I seem to be unable to find them until they are below me), other protection is OK, but a fair bit of suspect rock. Pitch 5 & 6 are v. easy but with tons of loose rocks both on the ground and the chimney. Last pitch is straight up the middle of a chimney/open crack, cool moves once you've worked it out, don't go through to the other side. We got to the base of the route for 09:30am, but due to 2 sets of VERY SLOW locals we didn't start on the route until just past nearly midday, and topped at at 17:06, missing the last cable car down (17:00). Won't make the mistake of assuming locals will be quicker in the future!!! Easy route finding for descent, but dull and can be arduous.
Hidden 30 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
MightyStew 12 Jul, 2014 AltLd
with u00
with u00
u00 12 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
2 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High IV-
Mid IV-
Low IV-
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Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Onsighted
Not Set